1997 GT Interceptor BMX - can you help value?
#1
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1997 GT Interceptor BMX - can you help value?
Hi there, our community bike shop repaired this 1997 GT Interceptor BMX. I replaced the free wheel, not sure if the brake calipers are original. This is in very good condition.
As I was researching for resale, I found it's vintage with more value that what we're used to getting from donated bikes. I see similar models on EBAY for ~$650.
Can you help value this BMX? Our shop asks for donations from sales to fund operations.
Thanks,
As I was researching for resale, I found it's vintage with more value that what we're used to getting from donated bikes. I see similar models on EBAY for ~$650.
Can you help value this BMX? Our shop asks for donations from sales to fund operations.
Thanks,
#2
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BMX bikes are getting big money right now, GT in particular. The older the more valuable, I would check ebay SOLD listings and try to find same model and at least similar year. Ebay does take fees and can be a pain, but does offer nationwide buyer pool, might be the best place to sell this one?
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This is one of GT's lesser models being mid school from the 90's as presented in very good serviced condition I would guess $450 on a local shop sale and $600 on Ebay. I would say advertise it locally at $550 and be willing to take a bit less. Being a community bike coop your time and efforts are probably better spent fixing bikes than dealing with Ebay.
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#4
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thanks for the info. Can I claim this to be vintage? The definition is hard to pin down. Agreed on time better spent on repairs, than EBAY. Also, any tips on dealing with scammers who might want to ride away with this collectible? Thanks in advance.
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Since your at a bike collective you could always have one of the members take bike and go on the test rides with potential buyers.
#6
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Scammers? Just sell on ebay to get top $$. Local sales in many markets will be a small fraction of ebay pricing. My rule of thumb is I will sell locally for HALF the ebay value, figuring in person, in cash, no packing, no buyer wins all disputes, no fees, no 1099, etc. I see some sellers expecting to get ebay prices selling locally. In my soft market, that is dreamland.
Of course, on ebay, you need a solid reputation and it's best to routinely sell items in this price range, to spread risk. I sell on ebay in the $75 to $500 price range. If I go above this level, the risk increases. If a $30 sale goes bad, no problem. If a $600 sale goes bad, BIG problem (for me). Less than 1% of sales go bad, more like 0.1% in my experience. And of that amount, I am only losing shipping as the item is returned to me. But packing and shipping a bike is a lot of work. As a comparison, packing a book takes less than 1 minute. So if a book is returned, so what? But if a bike is returned, I worry about packing on the other end. And stating "no returns" on ebay is a JOKE. All the buyer has to say is "item not as described" and it is coming back to you, regardless of your return policy!
Convenient and easy = lower price.
I differ from above, an active co-op should consider ebay as part of their model. In particular, sell some items that just won't bring $$ locally. Smalls are easier. Need a volunteer to handle ebay sales. Our local co-op sells on ebay. Sure, most stuff is sold locally. Part of many co-op's model is raising $$ to pay expenses. Selling lets say $1000 per month on ebay can make a difference. Pedals are a good example. Many co-ops may get $5 to $10 out of pedals. Meanwhile, a small fraction of those pedals might be worth $100 or more. Packing pedals is super easy. Sell 1% of your pedals that way, while the vast majority continue to be sold locally. Win-win. Sell 1% of the parts and pieces on ebay, the desirable stuff. Make it an easy sideline. Choose desirable stuff that is easy to pack: seat posts, stems, derailleurs, pedals. You do need a volunteer that can spot value.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-21-23 at 10:17 AM.
#7
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People can claim anything really. In the end, the buyer decides. My definition is different, but that does not matter.
Scammers? Just sell on ebay to get top $$. Local sales in many markets will be a small fraction of ebay pricing. My rule of thumb is I will sell locally for HALF the ebay value, figuring in person, in cash, no packing, no buyer wins all disputes, no fees, no 1099, etc. I see some sellers expecting to get ebay prices selling locally. In my soft market, that is dreamland.
Of course, on ebay, you need a solid reputation and it's best to routinely sell items in this price range, to spread risk. I sell on ebay in the $75 to $500 price range. If I go above this level, the risk increases. If a $30 sale goes bad, no problem. If a $600 sale goes bad, BIG problem (for me). Less than 1% of sales go bad, more like 0.1% in my experience. And of that amount, I am only losing shipping as the item is returned to me. But packing and shipping a bike is a lot of work. As a comparison, packing a book takes less than 1 minute. So if a book is returned, so what? But if a bike is returned, I worry about packing on the other end. And stating "no returns" on ebay is a JOKE. All the buyer has to say is "item not as described" and it is coming back to you, regardless of your return policy!
Convenient and easy = lower price.
I differ from above, an active co-op should consider ebay as part of their model. In particular, sell some items that just won't bring $$ locally. Smalls are easier. Need a volunteer to handle ebay sales. Our local co-op sells on ebay. Sure, most stuff is sold locally. Part of many co-op's model is raising $$ to pay expenses. Selling lets say $1000 per month on ebay can make a difference. Pedals are a good example. Many co-ops may get $5 to $10 out of pedals. Meanwhile, a small fraction of those pedals might be worth $100 or more. Packing pedals is super easy. Sell 1% of your pedals that way, while the vast majority continue to be sold locally. Win-win. Sell 1% of the parts and pieces on ebay, the desirable stuff. Make it an easy sideline. Choose desirable stuff that is easy to pack: seat posts, stems, derailleurs, pedals. You do need a volunteer that can spot value.
Scammers? Just sell on ebay to get top $$. Local sales in many markets will be a small fraction of ebay pricing. My rule of thumb is I will sell locally for HALF the ebay value, figuring in person, in cash, no packing, no buyer wins all disputes, no fees, no 1099, etc. I see some sellers expecting to get ebay prices selling locally. In my soft market, that is dreamland.
Of course, on ebay, you need a solid reputation and it's best to routinely sell items in this price range, to spread risk. I sell on ebay in the $75 to $500 price range. If I go above this level, the risk increases. If a $30 sale goes bad, no problem. If a $600 sale goes bad, BIG problem (for me). Less than 1% of sales go bad, more like 0.1% in my experience. And of that amount, I am only losing shipping as the item is returned to me. But packing and shipping a bike is a lot of work. As a comparison, packing a book takes less than 1 minute. So if a book is returned, so what? But if a bike is returned, I worry about packing on the other end. And stating "no returns" on ebay is a JOKE. All the buyer has to say is "item not as described" and it is coming back to you, regardless of your return policy!
Convenient and easy = lower price.
I differ from above, an active co-op should consider ebay as part of their model. In particular, sell some items that just won't bring $$ locally. Smalls are easier. Need a volunteer to handle ebay sales. Our local co-op sells on ebay. Sure, most stuff is sold locally. Part of many co-op's model is raising $$ to pay expenses. Selling lets say $1000 per month on ebay can make a difference. Pedals are a good example. Many co-ops may get $5 to $10 out of pedals. Meanwhile, a small fraction of those pedals might be worth $100 or more. Packing pedals is super easy. Sell 1% of your pedals that way, while the vast majority continue to be sold locally. Win-win. Sell 1% of the parts and pieces on ebay, the desirable stuff. Make it an easy sideline. Choose desirable stuff that is easy to pack: seat posts, stems, derailleurs, pedals. You do need a volunteer that can spot value.
Thanks for the response. Vintage is supposed to have a timeline that defines it, but the opinions on what is a vintage bike varies. Generally, what I can find, 20 years denotes vintage, 100 antique. Though Wikipedia defines interior design items vintage as 40+ years. I'm wondering what vintage bicycle buyers would consider a vintage? There's a variety of opinions. And, thanks for your feedback on Ebay selling. Agreed, I'll lower the price for in-person pickup. Our shop prefers to work with people in the area.
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This bike would not be considered vintage, it’s mid school
The studs for the linear pull breaks Versus old-school calipers is kind of the mason Dixon line. Bike also has A very basic Crankset and a really short top tube, in line with a child’s neighborhood bike more so than an actual racing oriented bike.
But it’s chrome and looks great- Plenty of dads and uncles would love to get the children in their life something similar to what they had or coveted when they were kids
While I personally think this is a $200 bike, It would not be insanity to ask 450
The studs for the linear pull breaks Versus old-school calipers is kind of the mason Dixon line. Bike also has A very basic Crankset and a really short top tube, in line with a child’s neighborhood bike more so than an actual racing oriented bike.
But it’s chrome and looks great- Plenty of dads and uncles would love to get the children in their life something similar to what they had or coveted when they were kids
While I personally think this is a $200 bike, It would not be insanity to ask 450
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#9
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This bike would not be considered vintage, it’s mid school
The studs for the linear pull breaks Versus old-school calipers is kind of the mason Dixon line. Bike also has A very basic Crankset and a really short top tube, in line with a child’s neighborhood bike more so than an actual racing oriented bike.
But it’s chrome and looks great- Plenty of dads and uncles would love to get the children in their life something similar to what they had or coveted when they were kids
While I personally think this is a $200 bike, It would not be insanity to ask 450
The studs for the linear pull breaks Versus old-school calipers is kind of the mason Dixon line. Bike also has A very basic Crankset and a really short top tube, in line with a child’s neighborhood bike more so than an actual racing oriented bike.
But it’s chrome and looks great- Plenty of dads and uncles would love to get the children in their life something similar to what they had or coveted when they were kids
While I personally think this is a $200 bike, It would not be insanity to ask 450
#10
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eBay solds over the last year for a complete bike have been in the $500 to $750 range. As mentioned earlier, in most markets, it is very unrealistic to expect ebay pricing.
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I would expect that there is somewhat of a price ceiling for used bikes of this vintage in your market for local sales of around $500 or so give or take a bit,
Which is about average for a larger market for a bike to get more Road, MTB or BMX for something to get more it would likely need to be something top end and really special. $400 for a mid level bike even a nicer BMX is pretty good II could only get half that in my market.
Which is about average for a larger market for a bike to get more Road, MTB or BMX for something to get more it would likely need to be something top end and really special. $400 for a mid level bike even a nicer BMX is pretty good II could only get half that in my market.
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It may depend on there being that 1 (or, better, 2 competing) person who remembers riding (or wanting) in his childhood. Did you have an active bmx scene in your area ~25 years ago?
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Fueler
That's a GT fueler, the notches for rear brake cable are on the wrong side on mid bar for it to be an interceptor, it's a fueler with decals changed
#15
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Thanks for the response. The bike sold for $175 to a dad buying it for his kid. He rode one as a teen. Thanks to the posters who got it right.