Stem size and angles as it relates to mustache bars vs road drop bars
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Stem size and angles as it relates to mustache bars vs road drop bars
So I know it is impossible to give exact answers but for those who have swapped between nitto mustache bars and drop bars (I know there a million different drop bars so don't worry about a particular drop bar just want to know your experience) or vise a versa what was the difference in stems lengths and angles between the two? Currently I have nitto mustache bars and a 80 mm stem with -17* drop. what would be a general change in stem specs going to something like a nitto b132 or 135 or noddle or similar bars? I posted a video in of my current set up in this thread if it helps. I like the mustache bars but figure on 60 mile and longer rides drop bars might be beneficial not that I have any complaints doing 50-60 mile rides with the mustache bars.
https://www.bikeforums.net/fitting-y...critiques.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/fitting-y...critiques.html
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Lower your stem as much as you can. If you don't see yourself staying in that position for very long then drops won't necessarily do anything for you. Mustache bars already give you the decent hand position similar to drops.
However I will say that I like the new short reach shallow drop bars that have been out for a while. The vintage bikes I rode for so long had drops with a huge amount of drop. Also, if you don't have STI's on those mustache bars, then you'll probably find the move to drops a little expensive due to the cost of STI's or dual control levers.
However I will say that I like the new short reach shallow drop bars that have been out for a while. The vintage bikes I rode for so long had drops with a huge amount of drop. Also, if you don't have STI's on those mustache bars, then you'll probably find the move to drops a little expensive due to the cost of STI's or dual control levers.
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Lower your stem as much as you can. If you don't see yourself staying in that position for very long then drops won't necessarily do anything for you. Mustache bars already give you the decent hand position similar to drops.
However I will say that I like the new short reach shallow drop bars that have been out for a while. The vintage bikes I rode for so long had drops with a huge amount of drop. Also, if you don't have STI's on those mustache bars, then you'll probably find the move to drops a little expensive due to the cost of STI's or dual control levers.
However I will say that I like the new short reach shallow drop bars that have been out for a while. The vintage bikes I rode for so long had drops with a huge amount of drop. Also, if you don't have STI's on those mustache bars, then you'll probably find the move to drops a little expensive due to the cost of STI's or dual control levers.
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Hi Jeff,
I’m your height and age, but run lighter. Maybe 1/2” shorter. I measured three other bikes of mine and all have the seat post 26” from the straightbars on mtb/trail bikes, and also 26” seat post to the top crosses of the drops on a Le Tour. The LeTour brakes are not as far forward of the crosses, as compared to the moustache bar of my xoxo.
I like the moustache bar, and would more if I were to move levers, but it would still be a reach for me. By measuring today I realized I am in a
four inch longer lean/stretch riding this bike, compared to most of or the rest of my remuda.
I grabbed an inexpensive senqui bar to
experiment. I will use my shortest SR first. I think it is 60mm. Then my arrangements allow for going farther in reach, in maybe 20 mm increments, or so.
It’ll be a couple days yet, until I am able to manage this. And there won’t be any riding yet, but I will be measuring and aligning things based on my other proven acceptable bike positions across the others.
It seems to me I’ll find a good fit by bringing my brake hood hand position back by 2.5-3.5 inches. This bar itself brings me an inch or so closer. The longer stems are out I think. Likely to be using the 60mm.
I’m your height and age, but run lighter. Maybe 1/2” shorter. I measured three other bikes of mine and all have the seat post 26” from the straightbars on mtb/trail bikes, and also 26” seat post to the top crosses of the drops on a Le Tour. The LeTour brakes are not as far forward of the crosses, as compared to the moustache bar of my xoxo.
I like the moustache bar, and would more if I were to move levers, but it would still be a reach for me. By measuring today I realized I am in a
four inch longer lean/stretch riding this bike, compared to most of or the rest of my remuda.
I grabbed an inexpensive senqui bar to
experiment. I will use my shortest SR first. I think it is 60mm. Then my arrangements allow for going farther in reach, in maybe 20 mm increments, or so.
It’ll be a couple days yet, until I am able to manage this. And there won’t be any riding yet, but I will be measuring and aligning things based on my other proven acceptable bike positions across the others.
It seems to me I’ll find a good fit by bringing my brake hood hand position back by 2.5-3.5 inches. This bar itself brings me an inch or so closer. The longer stems are out I think. Likely to be using the 60mm.
Last edited by streetsurfer; 12-05-22 at 06:06 PM.
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I like narrower drop bars. 38cm ideally. I rode with 42 cm bars on my previous bike for 4 years and though it was okay, I seemed to feel too braced and bore more of the road forces. My new bike came with 42 cm bars too, but changing them to 38 cm let me get rid of that braced feeling I had and the road forces get absorbed over a greater portion of my body. 38 cm bars were predominate on many of my older bikes I use to have.
If your elbows ever bother you, then consider if it is the wide hand spread.
If your elbows ever bother you, then consider if it is the wide hand spread.
Last edited by Iride01; 12-06-22 at 11:09 AM.
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But if you are changing bars, you usually will have to take that stuff off anyway to put on the new bars.
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They do. You just have to get a threadless adapter and a stem for a threadless steerer tube. Though I think I have seen some quill stems with a face plate to let you change bars easily without having to undo the tape from them and remove levers.
But if you are changing bars, you usually will have to take that stuff off anyway to put on the new bars.
But if you are changing bars, you usually will have to take that stuff off anyway to put on the new bars.
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