supton

I've still got a hankering for one of these old 3 speeds, but I'm not so sure. It's hilly around here (ask PastorBob), so I'm hesistant to believe I'd run other than a 22T rear cog (or maybe even deeper) -- will the chainguard still fit over such a big change?

I just passed up on a Sprite with a 5speed hub. I did not get a good vibe on Sheldon's site about these; from what little I know of hubs, it sounds like I'd be more happy with the FW 4 speed, if I were to "upgrade" from the AW wide ratio 3 speed (single control, better longevity?). Anyhow, since I'm more interested in riding, and possibly riding in lousy weather on this bike, is going for the non-5speed hubs a good move? [I also passed up on a bike with a Dynohub, on the fear of finding parts for that old beast.]

buck mulligan

If you're planning on riding in lousy weather, you may want to think about the wheels and/or brakes. Caliper brakes on steel wheels are less than ideal. I know this applies to the Sports; I'm pretty sure the Sprite came with steel wheels, as well.

wahoonc

22t cog will fit on a standard chain guard, it may or may not fit if you have a full chain case. I would take the 5 speed over the FW any day. Some FW parts are expensive and pricey. Dyno hubs are a non issue, they either work or they don't. They are dead simple to work on with one major caveat, DON'T separate the magnet from the ring! I have torn all of mine down at some point or another for cleaning and greasing.

I have an FG hub that I am going to have converted to a 5 speed, I can use the extra gear and it is cheaper than trying to source the two part indicator chain that the F series hubs require.

Aaron

supton

Yeah, I know about that too. I did some quick reading, and found that Raleigh used something other than 100mm for the front dropout--I was thinking about just swapping out the front wheel, but it looks like I'd have to reuse the front hub if I did that. I'm leaning towards the notion that, for what I'd like to have and ride, something a bit newer is in order. I just have to figure out what to build it on, my Panasonic seems too long in the cockpit, although it pretty much needs "everything" for freshening up.

gna

The Sprite had an S5 hub? The hub is fine; the problem is with the shifters. I very much would like one of those bikes; failing that, I'd get an S5 and put its guts in my Raleigh's AW shell.

Andrew F

I saw a Raleigh Sport on Ebay yesterday that had a rear derallieur giving it 6 gear ratios. Would have been perfect for your terrian. Just looked again and I can't find it, sorry! maybe someone knows how to set something like that up for you?

supton

IIRC, if you get the right vintage, it is possible--the early SA hubs had threaded drivers, and could accept freewheels. I think there was a (licensed) copy which used threaded drivers for decades after SA stopped. Sheldon has info on that. However, I have derailler bikes for long rides--which I tend to not ride in inclement weather. I tend not to go fast in rain, so gear range isn't quite as important. I Just have to be able to stand to pedal, 'cuz that's the terrain around here.

So, 22 will fit. I don't think I've seen too many fully enclosed chaincases, and I doubt I'd pay top dollar for them.

rhm

You can put two cogs on the normal Sturmey Archer driver; it doesn't have to be the threaded one. Cyclo made converters with two or three cogs on them; I think these required a longer driver, though.

Two cogs and a derailleur work pretty well if you have 3 tooth steps between the cogs. If I recall correctly, 16-19 gives perfect half-steps between the AW's existing gears. 17-20 will be a little under half a step; 18-21 a little more so, etc.

On my Norman 3 speed, I had to move the chain guard when I put a 22T cog on it. I don't remember what I had to do; fab new hardware or something, the original clamp wasn't quite long enough. But it was not a big deal.

noglider 

I suggest you get one of these bikes. Just make sure it's not your only bike. You have to ride one to appreciate it. The best advice I can give you is not to pay too much for it. Wait until a good value comes along.

It can be challenging to climb hills on one.

If the 5 speed is still available, get it. I think you will find it to be reliable.

You can replace the rims with aluminum, though at $40 each, it's a bit expensive. Can be worth it if the rest of the bike is in good shape. Also, Harris Cyclery recommends Panaracer Col de la Vie tires. They look great, and they're also expensive.

My three speeds are hard to ride uphill. When these bikes were the height of fashion, it was expected to walk up the hardest hills.

You can decide after you have the bike for a while whether it's worth putting money into it for upgrades. I would want a three speed to have both fenders and chainguard intact. It might be worth it to replace the rims and tires. There isn't much else I would change, because you can't make the bike all that light. But it's lovely for casual around-town riding. It's also an extremely reliable bike.

supton

"Around town" means riding up/down hills. Ideally, I could tow the kids trailer behind me, on church morning; I'd do the kid seat thing if it weren't for the fact that there are two of them. Guess I'll have to keep the MTB ready for that chore. But, yeah, I want the fenders and chainguard, for "hop on the bike and go", regardless of weather. I think with a cog swap to 22T I could climb the hills standing up in direct drive (54 gear inches) or sit and spin (41 gear inches), I think; I know it's bad form to stand in first. New rim up front might be a good idea if I started racking up miles, but we'll see--wet rims don't brake well, steel or not. A modern dynohub, OTOH, might be a worthwhile conversion, hmm...

My idea is to keep it to $100 or less, that seems like a good deal. That, and I don't really want to drive 6 hours to find one of these! I'm still rather leery of the cottered crank, though.

noglider 

Unless you're very strong, I expect towing two kids up hills to be very hard. I've done it, and I wouldn't want to do it on a 3-speed.

I've read about how it's bad to stand in 1st gear. I suppose it depends. I haven't ridden 3-speeds extensively, but I wouldn't worry about it. I'm 180 pounds.

The crank will be fine. It's a darned pain to overhaul because of the cotters, but if it's working, it's fine. It's also durable and reliable. I would leave it.

If you find a really good specimen, even $150 would be fair.

I think your gearing idea is a good one. Low gears are more important than high gears for your application and these bikes. They tend to come geared too high.

supton

I bet on flat roads the stock gearing is great. Yeah, towing won't work, on the MTB I am often running at about 26 gear inches to climb hills--and we're talking about a sub-2mile ride!

Ok, will go back to looking then, I feel revived on my hunt.

gna

I wouldn't stand in third gear.

NormanF

A modern IGH will give an old three speed a greater range. I replaced the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub with a Shimano Nexus 7 speed hub back in the day and its just about as good.

supton

Ooh, I gave in and called--sounds like I didn't miss that 5 speed after all... I just hope it's not one of the 23" frames!

gna

You sure know how to hurt a guy...that's the one I want!

Anyway, the shifters are usually the problem, so most people use a regular 3 speed shifter on the right, and a friction shifter on the left.

supton

Well, if you were closer, I'd let you have it, since you know what you want.

noglider 

You can use a regular 3-speed trigger on the left. It works well. In fact, it's probably the best.

cudak888 

First-gen Sprites had S5's, yes. Phased out by the late '60s. The AW did do a brief stint on the third-gen Sprites though, beginning 1977.

-Kurt

noglider 

Does the S5 Sprite have 27" wheels? That would be an enhancement. Lots of options!

cudak888 

Nope. The first-gen Sprites were S5-equipped versions of the Sports. Even the first derailer-equipped machines were EA3/Sports based.

-Kurt

nlerner

Here's an S5 Sprite I sold last year: 1967, 590mm wheels. Initially, I had a 3-speed trigger on the right and a friction shifter on the left, but I couldn't get the left-side to work. Then I went to two triggers, which functioned okay. Finally, a friend won on eBay for me a hot-rod top-tube dual shifter for the downtube, and that shifted fine. Overall, it was a heavy beast.

Neal

supton

I gave in and got it. Green Sprite 5. No shifters or shifter cables, but it's a 5 speed, 1969 hub; the rest appears there and in low miles. The B72 appears worse for wear; I'm not sure how tensioned it is supposed to be. And the John Bull brake pads are probably a bit dry too. But no large amount of rust, wheels seem straight. I didn't measure it, but it appears to be a 23", given how the top tube "kisses" me. Will measure it later, and make up a game plan for it. I'm guessing shifters (of some sort), lighting (probably not vintage), some sort of saddle bag, and a 22T cog.

noglider 

Yay! I think you made a wise choice. If you're not changing the handlebar, get two trigger shifters. They're readily available, and they work well. Does the left side of the hub have the bell crank?

May we ask how much it cost?

supton

Yes, two bell cranks. Hopefully, I can get some pics tonight. Gotta get the dishes done, kids to bed, then figure out how to finangle the bikes around in the basement...

Advertised for $120, or two for $200 (similar vintage 3spd womens with a mattress sadle). I figured, I *should* be able to talk him down to $100, although if the Brooks was in good shape, with the rest of it, $120 wouldn't be bad. I show up, we shoot the bull a bit, he finally says he's got $75 in it and that's what he's got to get. So I gave him $80. Got some sort of dynamo light for free at that point, too. I suspect he scored 3 or 4 bikes total for around that amount, he's a bike flipper apparently.