TREK 520 Fan Club
08-02-14, 07:20 PM
#126
Senior Member
08-06-14, 07:00 PM
#128
Harsh Adventurer
I sure love mine. It's a 2010 metallic 'Root Beer',and I have put 19,400 miles on it. I ride it in all conditions and all road surfaces. I wore out the original wheels at 18,000 miles and replaced them with a Mavic A-719 set. I'am on my third cassette and chain, and recently replaced the crank assembly. The frame still looks and rides like new. It been a great investment. It is comfortable, stable, durable and very forgiving. Steel is real!
08-09-14, 07:17 PM
#129
Junior Member
Does anyone know what year the frames stopped being manufactured in the US? I would really like to find a USA made Trek 520 at some point.
08-10-14, 08:10 PM
#130
Senior Member
08-27-14, 06:26 PM
#133
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: North Shore, MA
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Bikes: Jamis Aurora, Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Surly ECR, Serotta CSI
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Rode my first 520 today. It was a 2008, 58cm frame. I found it to be too small and have confirmed I need a 60cm.
I have read alot of impressions of this bike. Coming from a racing style bike, I enjoyed the stability as opposed to the twitchy feel of a racing bike. Barcons were not too bad, would take some getting used to.
It would be interesting to ride a newer 520 and get a feel for the lower gearing.
The hunt continues!
I have read alot of impressions of this bike. Coming from a racing style bike, I enjoyed the stability as opposed to the twitchy feel of a racing bike. Barcons were not too bad, would take some getting used to.
It would be interesting to ride a newer 520 and get a feel for the lower gearing.
The hunt continues!
Can I ask your height and inseam? I'm curious as to how a 520 fits. I'm ride a 57cm bike with a non sloping top tube and was wondering if I'd go up or down a cm on a 520.
08-27-14, 07:30 PM
#134
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2014
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I am 6'1" and have a 33 1/2" inseam. Originally, after riding a 58cm, I thought the 58cm was too small. Then I rode a friends 60cm and I did not have any top tube clearance. So I went with a 58cm and swapped out the handlebar stem.
08-29-14, 08:26 AM
#144
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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Still having problems posting pics,sorry about that folks. This is an all original 1991 520 in pristine condition. It's such a nice example that I don't want to ride it which seems crazy! Been thinking of letting the bike go to someone who would ride her.
08-29-14, 11:20 PM
#147
Member
I've decided to replace the cranks on my 2004 520. I'd be going from a 105 crankset that's 52-39-28 (the small ring was replaced) to either the Deore M590 at 48-36-26 or the Deore XT M770 at either 48-36-26 or 44-32-22. Everything is 9 speed.
The M590 is standard on current 520s. Are those of you who ride with the 590's satisfied or would you recommend an upgrade to the 770? There's a slight weight difference and supposedly the 770 is a bit stiffer. I believe that the 770 comes with a tad better bottom bracket too. The price difference is +/- $100.00.
Also is the 3.2 gear inch difference in the 26 v. 22 small ring minor or significant? BTW...I'm not a fan of hills.
You opinions please.
Thank you.
The M590 is standard on current 520s. Are those of you who ride with the 590's satisfied or would you recommend an upgrade to the 770? There's a slight weight difference and supposedly the 770 is a bit stiffer. I believe that the 770 comes with a tad better bottom bracket too. The price difference is +/- $100.00.
Also is the 3.2 gear inch difference in the 26 v. 22 small ring minor or significant? BTW...I'm not a fan of hills.
You opinions please.
Thank you.
08-30-14, 12:37 AM
#149
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Further North than U
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Bikes: Spec Roubaix, three Fisher Montare, two Pugs
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Under the right circumstances a small difference can be huge but whether it's meaningful to you...dunno. If you found yourself on a long hill that you could barely climb in a 26 ring but could just make it on a 22...it could be a big deal. Or you may be able to do the 26 at 40rpm straining your knee when the 22 allowed you to spin. If you ride lightly loaded on major highways that don't get over 6% then it's probably meaningless. If you ride heavily loaded and aren't in great shape and tackle steeper inclines then that difference can indeed be a big deal. For touring, most folks could care less about the high gear and the low end can hardly be too low. It's not uncommon for tourers to set up for an 18" gear. That's pretty darned low but many find it useful. If your 22 up front was mated to a 28 in the rear then yeah...really necessary. If you have a 36 in back then maybe it's overkill. You really can only know this by experience but for touring look to get a low gear from 18-22" or so and you'll at least be in a reasonable ballpark.
08-30-14, 12:47 AM
#150
Member
Under the right circumstances a small difference can be huge but whether it's meaningful to you...dunno. If you found yourself on a long hill that you could barely climb in a 26 ring but could just make it on a 22...it could be a big deal. Or you may be able to do the 26 at 40rpm straining your knee when the 22 allowed you to spin. If you ride lightly loaded on major highways that don't get over 6% then it's probably meaningless. If you ride heavily loaded and aren't in great shape and tackle steeper inclines then that difference can indeed be a big deal. For touring, most folks could care less about the high gear and the low end can hardly be too low. It's not uncommon for tourers to set up for an 18" gear. That's pretty darned low but many find it useful. If your 22 up front was mated to a 28 in the rear then yeah...really necessary. If you have a 36 in back then maybe it's overkill. You really can only know this by experience but for touring look to get a low gear from 18-22" or so and you'll at least be in a reasonable ballpark.
Thanks for your response.
