Hondo6

Actually, Shimano has made several different versions of the Hyperglide freehub over the years. These included 7-speed Hyperglide/Uniglide; 8-speed Hyperglide/Uniglide; 7-speed Hyperglide only; 7-speed Hyperglide-C (would accommodate 11T smallest sprockets); 8/9/10-speed Hyperglide only; and 11-speed Hyperglide. The Hyperglide/Uniglide versions have threads to accommodate a threaded Uniglide smallest sprocket (necessary to lock the cassette in place as Uniglide freehubs did not use a lockring). I'm not sure the if the 8/9/10 speed Hyperglide only hubs were ever made in a 12T largest sprocket version (e.g., not Hyperglide-C). But all used the same Hyperglide spline pattern (9 splines, one larger than the others for keying purposes).

I think all Hyperglide hubs made by Shimano for the past roughly 30 years have been of the "compact" variant that takes 11T smallest sprocket. I'm pretty sure the transition occurred in the early or mid-1990s. According to Velobase, the FH-HG20 was a Shimano 7-speed Hyperglide-only freehub for the 200GS groupset (1990-1992); I think it continued in production for a while thereafter. The version pictured on Velobase shows the non-compact freehub (splines extend to the end of the freehub). However, the version offered for sale on eBay here has the Hyperglide-C 7-speed freehub. And if I recall correctly I've seen at least one example with the original 7-speed Hyperglide/Uniglide freehub.


Edited to add: I forgot a variant above. The 7800-series 10-speed Dura Ace freehubs were made out of aluminum alloy. Shimano increased the height of the splines on these freehubs in an effort to (presumably) achieve acceptable longevity for these freehubs - the 9-spline pattern remained the same, but the splines were taller on this Dura Ace freehub than previous Hyperglide freehubs. It apparently didn't work to their satisfaction, as Shimano went to titanium freehubs with a standard spline height with the 7850 Dura Ace freehubs.

Hondo6

Thanks for the info. Got busy earlier today and didn't have the chance to get one from the "parts stash" to check.

70sSanO

I’m not familiar with White Industries hubs, other than they are very high quality.

My wife has a set of Fulcrums and I had an issue with the cassette lockring not engaging enough. Even though that lockring worked on other freehubs, I just swapped the lockring for one with more thread length.

John

Hondo6

Bingo. All they would need to do is have someone go buy some Shimano hubs or replacement freehubs (preferably enough copies that they can get a statistically valid sample size), removing them from hubs if necessary. They can then measure these, get averages, and reverse-engineer their freehubs to be as compatible as desired based on the measurement data.

I'm fairly sure that an item's basic dimensions cannot be patented (though other design features can be). And the patent on Shimano's original Hyperglide spline pattern would date to the late 1980s/early 1990s (when Hyperglide was introduced) and has long expired.

Frankly, I'd be surprised if WI didn't do something along those lines.

Edited to add: there's even a business opportunity for WI here, albeit IMO a relatively niche and small one. If this is becomes a real problem and WI doesn't want to change their existing design for whatever reason to accommodate a new line of Shimano cassettes that don't fit as well, they could produce a lockring of 1-2mm extended length as a recommended fix for the problem. Might be cheaper than revising their design and production processes.

Steve_sr

I think what happened her is that when Shimano went to an aluminum lock ring they couldn't undercut the threads all the way to the face of the lockring because it would reduce the strength of the lockring. All of the steel ones that I have seen have been undercut. A possible way to compensate for this on the freehub is to undercut (remove) about 2mm of the threads inside the freehub. This could be done without compromising the strength of the freehub. It would be interesting to see if any of the Shimano freehubs have this undercut.

Does anyone know if Shimano extended the threaded length of the aluminum lockring to compensate for the 1-2 mm unthreaded area? I am wondering how it compares to the thread length on a steel lockring.

squirtdad

don't know if OP found issue, but saw this in a recent thread "Quick update....I found this https://www.whiteind.com/wp-content/...on-Guide-1.pdf document on WI's web site and it looks like I was sent a wheelset with a 10 HG driver rather than the 11 speed I spec'ed. Checking with the vendor and will update with what I find out"

maybe Steve_sr got a 10 HG driver??

KCT1986

That could not be the case for the freehub body in Steve_sr's case. It is WI's body that is for 11 speed. See the pic in post #36, 11sp cass with 1.8mm spacer.

Kontact 

Pardon me for asking the obvious, but what is the lockring bottoming out against? The picture in the OP is of a lockring with about 5 threads. The picture of the hub shows about 9 threads. So why is the shallow lockring not threading in further?

Remove the cogs, oil the threads and thread in the lockring by hand. How deep does it go? If it stop after 3 or 4 threads, what's stopping it?

Is your tool hitting the axle?

Russ Roth

Adding more to a ti freehub body would not be a fun task and not easily doable.

When it has a larger then 34t cog and can sit on a 10sp freehub?

OP, you've been overthinking this. I've got two of those hubs and there is a decent amount of overhang. The cassette does compress some when the lockring tightens on, the lockring, when fully tightened doesn't unthread do to the spline connection with the cog, and the cog can sit further out because it is one of the only gears that doesn't have a spacer but a built in shoulder that gives it the support it needs. When pedaling there isn't a lot of side load, the force transfers in to the freehub body and a cassette will run fairly well with a lockring that is just snugged. I remember seeing the torque spec once for a lockring, its less then what's typically applied. Just add the spacer, thread it on and tighted down, it should hold just fine.

FBinNY 

Actually it's quick and easy using a conical stone with a Dremel or die grinder.

However, this would be my 2nd choice AFTER confirming that the problem is the freehub, not the individual lockring.