Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Square taper spindle steel differences?.

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Square taper spindle steel differences?.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-30-22, 06:42 PM
  #1  
sd5782 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,494

Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times in 393 Posts
Square taper spindle steel differences?.

I am occupying myself in the cold weather by building up another bike I don’t really need, but.. Anyhow, I will probably use a nice cromoly Shimano spindle and bb. That got me to wondering about the difference between those pretty silver cromoly spindles and the black ones. I did a minor search but didn’t see much.

I would guess harder steel? More durability? It may just be cosmetic, but it seems the cranks spin better too on the prettier ones. Is it also a combination of better cups too? Cheap spindles are available for maybe $10, so the premium older used ones must have something more going for them.
sd5782 is offline  
Old 11-30-22, 08:27 PM
  #2  
Schweinhund
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,378

Bikes: a couple

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 563 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times in 455 Posts
The black is probably carbon steel and the shiny one is chromoly.
There are so many types, grades, and specialty mixes of steel out there, you'd probably be better off just reading about it.
https://makeitfrommetal.com/alloy-st...-carbon-steel/
Schweinhund is offline  
Old 11-30-22, 08:39 PM
  #3  
steelbikeguy
Senior Member
 
steelbikeguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,476
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,375 Times in 1,580 Posts
Originally Posted by sd5782
I am occupying myself in the cold weather by building up another bike I don’t really need, but.. Anyhow, I will probably use a nice cromoly Shimano spindle and bb. That got me to wondering about the difference between those pretty silver cromoly spindles and the black ones. I did a minor search but didn’t see much.

I would guess harder steel? More durability? It may just be cosmetic, but it seems the cranks spin better too on the prettier ones. Is it also a combination of better cups too? Cheap spindles are available for maybe $10, so the premium older used ones must have something more going for them.
That's a good question, and I'm willing to bet that someone here knows.

My only recollection of black spindles/axles were the ones that came with Sugino Maxy cranks. These had the threaded studs that accepted a nut, as opposed to the standard axle that takes a bolt. These were not high quality and the cones would pit fairly quickly. Probably good enough for most folks, though?

The only other cup and cone BB's that I've got now are a Specialized and a few Campy Records. Both have silver axles and the Campy ones are good for many thousands of miles. Still waiting to find out how good the Specialized one is.

Since every thread needs photos, here's a shot of the Specialized axle...




and a shot of the axle from my Olmo....




Steve in Peoria
steelbikeguy is offline  
Old 11-30-22, 09:05 PM
  #4  
3alarmer 
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26411 Post(s)
Liked 10,377 Times in 7,205 Posts
.
...the better loose bearing BB spindles and cups are case hardened. This allows the use of a low carbon steel that is easily machined, and remains somewhat resistant to surface wear, while still not failing in use due to brittleness. If you wear them down past this exterior layer of case hardening (for example by trying to resurface a pitted bearing race on the spindle or in the cups), they wear out again pretty quickly. So it's a bad idea to try to resurface them by grinding and polishing.
__________________
3alarmer is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 07:32 AM
  #5  
sd5782 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,494

Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times in 393 Posts
Pics

Pics are needed for this group. Looking at the post on steel alloys is interesting. Some spindles I have show some cromoly spindles are silver, and some not. Some are hollow and some not. Then there is the plain cheap ones. Quality counts of course, but I was looking for an education on the quality, and also the mechanical and riding qualities it imparts.



Superbe—Smooth and pretty



Shimano with beautiful finish



One hollow, one not, both cromoly



Cheap generic, but looks acceptable
sd5782 is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 10:40 AM
  #6  
seypat
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8,515
Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3241 Post(s)
Liked 2,512 Times in 1,510 Posts
This one has the super light Ni Cr cups, bolts and lock rings. I think the spindle came with the earlier Superbe groups before they got marked Superbe.
seypat is offline  
Likes For seypat:
Old 12-01-22, 02:19 PM
  #7  
Hondo6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: SW Florida, USA
Posts: 1,286

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 550 Post(s)
Liked 672 Times in 464 Posts
Originally Posted by Schweinhund
The black is probably carbon steel and the shiny one is chromoly.
There are so many types, grades, and specialty mixes of steel out there, you'd probably be better off just reading about it.
https://makeitfrommetal.com/alloy-st...-carbon-steel/
The color of a spindle isn't a reliable indicator of the type of steel from which it's made. Both Shimano and Hatta produced some CroMo spindles with a black finish. Here's one example, from Hatta:




And here's another example, this one from Shimano:





I suspect the shiny ones are plated. I've seen photos of higher-end shiny spindles (Dura Ace, if I remember correctly) where the plating is peeling at the taper.

OP: I strongly suspect that the smoothness of operation of a new cup and cone bottom bracket is more related to the smoothness of cup races and spindle cones, along with the grade of the bearing balls used. Higher end spindles tend to be better ground and polished, and also tend to be plated. The type and hardness of the steel used in the cups/spindle cones would almost certainly have far more impact on longevity than on smoothness of rotation.

Last edited by Hondo6; 12-01-22 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Add 2nd photo and additional info.
Hondo6 is offline  
Likes For Hondo6:
Old 12-01-22, 03:13 PM
  #8  
sd5782 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,494

Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times in 393 Posts
Interesting, as I wouldn’t have thought plating would hold up. I was guessing that the shiner finish was the actual metal, at least on the Superbe. I know little about these though. On my Miyata 1000 the darker colored cromoly spindle did have some small pits at the bearing area, sit it has been retired.
sd5782 is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 04:03 PM
  #9  
Schweinhund
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,378

Bikes: a couple

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 563 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times in 455 Posts
Originally Posted by Hondo6
The color of a spindle isn't a reliable indicator of the type of steel from which it's made. Both Shimano and Hatta produced some CroMo spindles with a black finish. Here's one example, from Hatta:





I suspect the shiny ones are plated. I've seen photos of higher-end shiny spindles (Dura Ace, if I remember correctly) where the plating is peeling at the taper.

OP: I strongly suspect that the smoothness of operation of a new cup and cone bottom bracket is more related to the smoothness of cup races and spindle cones, along with the grade of the bearing balls used. Higher end spindles tend to be better ground and polished, and also tend to be plated. The type and hardness of the steel used in the cups/spindle cones would almost certainly have far more impact on longevity than on smoothness of rotation.
It really just depends on the chromium content. For instance stainless, it's shiny because a large amount chromium is in it as well as vanadium and molybdenum in small amounts as well as boron.
The lower the chromium content, the less shiny it is. About 11% is where you start to see the chromium color in the metal, but it doesn't get really tangible until it's a bit higher.
They have plated lesser metals with chrome because chrome is incredibly hard along with corrosion and wear resistance.
Schweinhund is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 05:31 PM
  #10  
Hondo6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: SW Florida, USA
Posts: 1,286

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 550 Post(s)
Liked 672 Times in 464 Posts
Originally Posted by Schweinhund
It really just depends on the chromium content. For instance stainless, it's shiny because a large amount chromium is in it as well as vanadium and molybdenum in small amounts as well as boron.
The lower the chromium content, the less shiny it is. About 11% is where you start to see the chromium color in the metal, but it doesn't get really tangible until it's a bit higher.
They have plated lesser metals with chrome because chrome is incredibly hard along with corrosion and wear resistance.
4130 CroMo steel is typically between 0.8% and 1.1% chromium and between 0.15% and 0.25% molybdenum. That amount of chromium in a steel alloy does effectively nada to provide corrosion resistance. Both elements are added to improve the strength of the resulting alloy, not for corrosion resistance.

https://matmatch.com/learn/material/4130-steel

Unless coated with a preservative or provided with some form of corrosion-resistant coating - like nickel or chromium plating, Parkerizing, or bluing - untreated bare CroMo will definitely rust.

Last edited by Hondo6; 12-01-22 at 05:34 PM.
Hondo6 is offline  
Likes For Hondo6:
Old 12-01-22, 06:07 PM
  #11  
Schweinhund
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 1,378

Bikes: a couple

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 563 Post(s)
Liked 862 Times in 455 Posts
Originally Posted by Hondo6
4130 CroMo steel is typically between 0.8% and 1.1% chromium and between 0.15% and 0.25% molybdenum. That amount of chromium in a steel alloy does effectively nada to provide corrosion resistance. Both elements are added to improve the strength of the resulting alloy, not for corrosion resistance.

https://matmatch.com/learn/material/4130-steel

Unless coated with a preservative or provided with some form of corrosion-resistant coating - like nickel or chromium plating, Parkerizing, or bluing - untreated bare CroMo will definitely rust.
bare it rusts just as bad as iron.
Schweinhund is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 06:49 PM
  #12  
sd5782 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1,494

Bikes: 1964 Huffy Sportsman, 1972 Fuji Newest, 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (3), 1982 Trek 412, 1983 Trek 700, 1989 Miyata 1000LT, 1991 Bianchi Boardwalk, plus others

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 582 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times in 393 Posts
So is the cromoly just preferable to heat treat to a better finish and the cheaper carbon steel in the last pic is just ”cheaper” all the way around with durability and smoothness?
sd5782 is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 07:01 PM
  #13  
daka
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 503

Bikes: Raleigh Super Course, Raleigh International, Raleigh Gran Sport

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 251 Post(s)
Liked 317 Times in 198 Posts
I think it comes down to the manufacturing technique. Machine to shape and then harden (accepting that the machined shape will deviate slightly with the hardening process) or machine, harden, then finish grind to a precise shape. Option one is lower cost and more common and option 2 is how you will see that Campagnolo and the other the higher end parts are made. Look for the ground surface in the bearing race area in contrast to the balance of the part regardless of the plating, etc.
daka is offline  
Old 12-01-22, 07:30 PM
  #14  
zandoval 
Senior Member
 
zandoval's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,478

Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 965 Post(s)
Liked 1,628 Times in 1,044 Posts
Back in the day... Ha... Well, in the 70s I went into an Italian bike shop for some parts. There was a large array of boxes spilling parts inside of a glass cabinet without prices because most likely the price was set at the time of the buy. Typical Italian hardware sales I guess. Any way, there was a box of spindles with matching cups and cotters that were brown in color. It was obviously they had been Parkerized. Go Figure...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
zandoval is offline  
Old 12-02-22, 08:07 AM
  #15  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times in 1,934 Posts
Originally Posted by daka
I think it comes down to the manufacturing technique. Machine to shape and then harden (accepting that the machined shape will deviate slightly with the hardening process) or machine, harden, then finish grind to a precise shape. Option one is lower cost and more common and option 2 is how you will see that Campagnolo and the other the higher end parts are made. Look for the ground surface in the bearing race area in contrast to the balance of the part regardless of the plating, etc.
Yes, even black oxide finish spindles can have ground and polished races.
JohnDThompson is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.