Centerlock or 6 bolt for my build?
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Centerlock or 6 bolt for my build?
Hi all, I’m having a bike built up which is a road/gravel/touring bike. Leaning more to the road than anything else though. It will have GRX-800 componentry and I’m getting wheels hand built. The wheel builder contacted me to tell me he can’t get the Shimano (105) hubs that were planned which are centerlock. He has proposed different hubs which are for 6 bolt rotors (Velo Orange). Sounds like the hubs might be better but I’m just concerned about going 6 bolt. Centerlock seems to be the road and gravel standard. I was wondering if it’s something I should be worried about or not? Am I more likely to get disc rub with the 6 bolt ones, or other maintenance issues? I could still get other centerlock hubs but would have to pay more for higher quality hub like White Industries for example. Choices are a little limited though as I’m going 36 hole to keep the touring options open.
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If it were me, I'd use this as a great excuse to get better hubs -- WI is great, CK would be great, too. But realistically, 6-bolt hubs are fine. You can still use centerlock rotors (Shimano IceTech are terrific) with cheap and very lightweight adaptors.
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Yes, good hubs are worth it. White Industries, Chris King, Industry Nine, etc. Those three are all made in the US, if that kind of thing matters to you (being from AUS, maybe it is a negative since it is further away). There are several other good options.
I have both centerlock and 6-bolt. Centerlock is more convenient, and the rotors in general are better at heat dissipation (although I have never had trouble with my Icetech 6-bolt rotors).
I have both centerlock and 6-bolt. Centerlock is more convenient, and the rotors in general are better at heat dissipation (although I have never had trouble with my Icetech 6-bolt rotors).
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Yes, good hubs are worth it. White Industries, Chris King, Industry Nine, etc. Those three are all made in the US, if that kind of thing matters to you (being from AUS, maybe it is a negative since it is further away). There are several other good options.
I have both centerlock and 6-bolt. Centerlock is more convenient, and the rotors in general are better at heat dissipation (although I have never had trouble with my Icetech 6-bolt rotors).
I have both centerlock and 6-bolt. Centerlock is more convenient, and the rotors in general are better at heat dissipation (although I have never had trouble with my Icetech 6-bolt rotors).
If I went with the 6 bolt I imagine I'd go the Shimano RT86 rotors which are Ice tech (presumably the ones you have?)
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Sorry, my brain short-circuited there...You can use six-bolt rotors in CL hubs, but NOT vice-versa. Sorry for that.
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Short answer it'll be fine
Medium answer, which brand do you prefer? 6 bolt, flange, xD, XPLR; or centerlock, straight pull, microspline, GRX
Medium answer, which brand do you prefer? 6 bolt, flange, xD, XPLR; or centerlock, straight pull, microspline, GRX
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There's zero difference in performance between 6-bolt and centerlock. I think most higher end hubs seem to be moving to centerlock, but there are (and will be for a long time) still lots of good rotor options out there for 6 bolt, so I wouldn't see that as a limiting factor. There is no difference in terms of rubbing.
For reference, I have two wheelsets on my gravel/CX bike - one has 6 bolt, the other has centerlock. They both swap on the same bike with minimal adjusting (I did have to shim the 6 bolt rotors which is simple) and the only time I notice any difference is when I occasionally check the torque on the rotor bolts, or need to remove a rotor for some reason (which isn't very often). I prefer centerlock because they're a more simple design.
On hubs, there's a big difference between Shimano's cup and cone setup and something like White Industries, which uses cartridge bearings. I have owned Shimano Ultegra hubs in the past and much prefer the cartridge style setup, as they're more maintenance-free.
For reference, I have two wheelsets on my gravel/CX bike - one has 6 bolt, the other has centerlock. They both swap on the same bike with minimal adjusting (I did have to shim the 6 bolt rotors which is simple) and the only time I notice any difference is when I occasionally check the torque on the rotor bolts, or need to remove a rotor for some reason (which isn't very often). I prefer centerlock because they're a more simple design.
On hubs, there's a big difference between Shimano's cup and cone setup and something like White Industries, which uses cartridge bearings. I have owned Shimano Ultegra hubs in the past and much prefer the cartridge style setup, as they're more maintenance-free.
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That said, I'm not sure why anyone would run an adapter on a new build CL hub. There are lots of options for both type, so I don't really think this would be a deciding factor in selecting the type/brand of hubs.
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The center-lock Shimano rotors seem to have better heat dissipation fins than their six-bolt counterparts. That's a design choice, rather than some inherent limitation of the attachment mechanism, but it might lead to better performance (my splined rotors seem to last a lot longer than my 6-bolt ones).
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The center-lock Shimano rotors seem to have better heat dissipation fins than their six-bolt counterparts. That's a design choice, rather than some inherent limitation of the attachment mechanism, but it might lead to better performance (my splined rotors seem to last a lot longer than my 6-bolt ones).
Shimano GRX FH-RS770 Disc CL Hub
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With respect to the hub, I am 99% in agreement. One of the threads in one of my six-bolt hubs is a bit tight, possibly damaged from cross-threading. I am very careful with it so as not to do further damage, but at some point I might have a 5-bolt hub. That is where the 1% (or whatever) difference is, with respect to the hub.
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Hi all, I’m having a bike built up which is a road/gravel/touring bike. Leaning more to the road than anything else though. It will have GRX-800 componentry and I’m getting wheels hand built. The wheel builder contacted me to tell me he can’t get the Shimano (105) hubs that were planned which are centerlock. He has proposed different hubs which are for 6 bolt rotors (Velo Orange). Sounds like the hubs might be better but I’m just concerned about going 6 bolt. Centerlock seems to be the road and gravel standard. I was wondering if it’s something I should be worried about or not? Am I more likely to get disc rub with the 6 bolt ones, or other maintenance issues? I could still get other centerlock hubs but would have to pay more for higher quality hub like White Industries for example. Choices are a little limited though as I’m going 36 hole to keep the touring options open.
If you want a black hub, just buy Bitex BX106 hubs that are centerlock and be done. They are less expensive, lighter, and come in multiple colors. In the US, they cost $200 total and weigh 385g. Thats compared to VO disc hubs that cost $258 and weigh 477g.
Bitex BX106 hubs are relatively light, relatively inexpensive, come in many colors, are centerlock, and have shown to be very reliable and popular(for the reasons listed).
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Velo Orange hubs? Thats an interesting alternative. Interesting not in a bad way, but in a sorta surprising and quirky way. Are you specifically wanting a silver hub? If so, then I get going with VO.
If you want a black hub, just buy Bitex BX106 hubs that are centerlock and be done. They are less expensive, lighter, and come in multiple colors. In the US, they cost $200 total and weigh 385g. Thats compared to VO disc hubs that cost $258 and weigh 477g.
Bitex BX106 hubs are relatively light, relatively inexpensive, come in many colors, are centerlock, and have shown to be very reliable and popular(for the reasons listed).
If you want a black hub, just buy Bitex BX106 hubs that are centerlock and be done. They are less expensive, lighter, and come in multiple colors. In the US, they cost $200 total and weigh 385g. Thats compared to VO disc hubs that cost $258 and weigh 477g.
Bitex BX106 hubs are relatively light, relatively inexpensive, come in many colors, are centerlock, and have shown to be very reliable and popular(for the reasons listed).
If the OP's wheelbuilder can't get Shimano hubs, the options are pretty narrow.
PWB lists the Velo Orange disc hubs as 270g front/ 370g rear, which would be 620g for the pair. Compare to White Industries CLD which is 444g for the par, but also double the cost ($540). If it were me, I'd go with the White Industries hubs as they are fantastic build quality and will last a lifetime, but also if it were me I wouldn't be building 36 spoke wheels.
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Another option here might be Hope hubs. The centerlock models max at 32 hole, but they have a 6 bolt hub that goes up to 36.
PWB has them priced at $330, and combined weight is a respectable 485g. On paper I'd choose this over those Velo Orange hubs, which seem really heavy (assuming 620g is correct). Though 105 hubs are pretty heavy too (526g), so this may not matter to the OP.
Regardless, going back to the OP's original question, I wouldn't let 6 bolt vs centerlock drive the decision here, but if you really want centerlocks and your wheelbuilder can't get Shimano, it looks like the only 36 hole option would be the White Industries CLD. It's a nice hub with a great reputation and will likely last forever, I know a prominent local wheelbuilder in my area who prefers WI over Chris King - but they are expensive.
PWB has them priced at $330, and combined weight is a respectable 485g. On paper I'd choose this over those Velo Orange hubs, which seem really heavy (assuming 620g is correct). Though 105 hubs are pretty heavy too (526g), so this may not matter to the OP.
Regardless, going back to the OP's original question, I wouldn't let 6 bolt vs centerlock drive the decision here, but if you really want centerlocks and your wheelbuilder can't get Shimano, it looks like the only 36 hole option would be the White Industries CLD. It's a nice hub with a great reputation and will likely last forever, I know a prominent local wheelbuilder in my area who prefers WI over Chris King - but they are expensive.
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I agree on Bitex value, but I think the problem here is the 36 hole requirement, which limits a lot of options. Pretty sure the Bitax 106 only goes up to 32.
If the OP's wheelbuilder can't get Shimano hubs, the options are pretty narrow.
PWB lists the Velo Orange disc hubs as 270g front/ 370g rear, which would be 620g for the pair. Compare to White Industries CLD which is 444g for the par, but also double the cost ($540). If it were me, I'd go with the White Industries hubs as they are fantastic build quality and will last a lifetime, but also if it were me I wouldn't be building 36 spoke wheels.
If the OP's wheelbuilder can't get Shimano hubs, the options are pretty narrow.
PWB lists the Velo Orange disc hubs as 270g front/ 370g rear, which would be 620g for the pair. Compare to White Industries CLD which is 444g for the par, but also double the cost ($540). If it were me, I'd go with the White Industries hubs as they are fantastic build quality and will last a lifetime, but also if it were me I wouldn't be building 36 spoke wheels.
VO's site lists the disc hubs as 160 front and 317 rear, so 477g total. A 270g front hub would be pretty darn heavy, I think.
Well hey Nomad2 , you want 36h then get 36h, but thats a pretty overbuilt wheel for almost any situation. No harm in going overbuilt, but just for what its worth- my disc wheels are 32h front and rear(bitex hubs, go figure) and are laced with double butted spokes to rims that are 25mm wide and 23mm deep. I weigh 215#, my bike weighs 22#, and I have had 30# of gear on it multiple times for extended rides. Thats almost 270# of total weight and I would not think twice to ride those wheels for weeks on end(if only I had the time and determination to do so!).
They wheels have never been touched in 3 years of riding- road, a ton of gravel, some forest singletrack, and some loaded overnights.
If I went with a deeper rim, I would have probably also gone with 28h drilling even.
So its been mentioned, but Shimano GRX hubs come in 36h. RS770.
Best of luck on finding an option that is a happy mix of price and wants. From what I have read over the last couple years, Australia has some frustrating pricing that makes some products out of a price range compared to the same products in other countries. Dave Rome with CyclingTips has also talked about it off and on thru the years as he is located down there.
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Yeah, and the frustrating thing is that physically they are much closer to where many of these parts (not the hubs I listed, but pretty much everything else) is made. So the higher prices are artificial consequences of the "free market."
BTW I have a 32 spoke rear wheel with a White Industries hub on my touring bike, and it sees a lot of off-road activity as well (when I used to use it on my gravel bike, as well as now). No issues. Build quality and competence of the wheel-builder is probably at least as important as spoke number (within reason). Also, having wide tires helps distribute the impact.
BTW I have a 32 spoke rear wheel with a White Industries hub on my touring bike, and it sees a lot of off-road activity as well (when I used to use it on my gravel bike, as well as now). No issues. Build quality and competence of the wheel-builder is probably at least as important as spoke number (within reason). Also, having wide tires helps distribute the impact.
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I have become a big fan of Shimano hubs. I highly recommend the GRX hubs as high quality and very good value. And, they happen to be center-lock which I like.
Shimano GRX FH-RS770 Disc CL Hub
Shimano GRX FH-RS770 Disc CL Hub
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Thanks everyone for your input! I think I'll go with the Velo Orange Hubs and get the 6 bolt ice-tech rotors (assuming Shimano can manage that...).
I agree that 36 spoke might be overkill. My wife and I are just sticking with what we had before on our bikes for loaded touring.
I toured once on my mtb which had 32 spoke wheels. Those wheels handled everything that was thrown at them until I put two panniers on the back and toured in New Zealand. Day 2: "ping!" spoke 1 gone. Lucky we had a few kevlar spokes. Day 3: "ping". Day 4: "ping". Day 5: Ride on bus to nearest bike shop and new rear wheel.
That said I'm sure there's a massive difference between a wheel on an off the peg moderately priced bike and a good hand built wheel.
I agree that 36 spoke might be overkill. My wife and I are just sticking with what we had before on our bikes for loaded touring.
I toured once on my mtb which had 32 spoke wheels. Those wheels handled everything that was thrown at them until I put two panniers on the back and toured in New Zealand. Day 2: "ping!" spoke 1 gone. Lucky we had a few kevlar spokes. Day 3: "ping". Day 4: "ping". Day 5: Ride on bus to nearest bike shop and new rear wheel.
That said I'm sure there's a massive difference between a wheel on an off the peg moderately priced bike and a good hand built wheel.
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In my view, the main reason to care about 6 bolt vs centerlock is if you're going to pack the bike for travel. For that, removing the rotors reduces the chance of a rotor getting bent in transit. And it's much easier to remove and remount centerlock rotors.