The 5 Vis appreciation thread
#151
Uff Da!
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Aside from the lateral movement required, mine has a 30 tooth difference(26/56) between the smallest and largest chainring.
I don't know of any front derailleur that could handle that.
#152
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I recently came across this 50.4 BCD cottered steel crankset. Drive side has the Williams logo. Non-drive side has no logo. Chamfer on back side is just a little larger on drive side crank.
Both are marked "Made in England" on the front and "1/2" on the back.
Any suggestions for date of manufacture? What is the significance of the letter "Z" below the Williams logo?
Brent
Both are marked "Made in England" on the front and "1/2" on the back.
Any suggestions for date of manufacture? What is the significance of the letter "Z" below the Williams logo?
Brent
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#153
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I recently pulled a Sugino Super Maxy 5 vis crank from an 84 Univega Alpina Uno and wanted to use the crank on a 91 Trek 950 (68mm bb shell). The original axle measured around 127.75mm (asymmetric) and resulted in the non-drive side grazing the chainstay. I'm not sure how to go about figuring out the correct axle length. It's also currently set up as a triple, and I plan to convert it to a double (2x9 ultimately), which I believe means getting different bolts/spacers, correct?
Any help would be appreciated!
Any help would be appreciated!
#154
Overdoing projects
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I recently pulled a Sugino Super Maxy 5 vis crank from an 84 Univega Alpina Uno and wanted to use the crank on a 91 Trek 950 (68mm bb shell). The original axle measured around 127.75mm (asymmetric) and resulted in the non-drive side grazing the chainstay. I'm not sure how to go about figuring out the correct axle length. It's also currently set up as a triple, and I plan to convert it to a double (2x9 ultimately), which I believe means getting different bolts/spacers, correct?
Any help would be appreciated!
Any help would be appreciated!
#155
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Ordered bolts from VO, thanks!
Still looking for assistance on spindle length, if anyone has recommendations.
Still looking for assistance on spindle length, if anyone has recommendations.
#156
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I’ve been having a sort out recently and discovered I’ve still got a pair of TA “Cyclotouriste” cranks in 185mm length.
in my youth I used to compete in hill climbs, and used this with a single 39t chairing and fixed wheel. I’m 6’3” and the length was fine. Interestingly overlap was never a problem.
I’ve not seen these cranks in that length elsewhere though
in my youth I used to compete in hill climbs, and used this with a single 39t chairing and fixed wheel. I’m 6’3” and the length was fine. Interestingly overlap was never a problem.
I’ve not seen these cranks in that length elsewhere though
#157
Shifting is fun!
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Picked up another example of my favorite chainset style today at a jumble sale. An early Stronglight 49D. I don't recall having seen this version before.
#158
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The TA I installed on my Raleigh Super Course, freshened up with new stainless hardware from V/O and a little bit of polish. Currently 54/40, but I plan to go lower gearing.
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blahblahblah chrome moly
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No! 50-40 or fight!
Nice lookin 5-vis there. I bet the 54 came off an early-'70s Schwinn Sports Touring, do we know? It has the extra set of bolt holes where Schwinn had TA add a shifting ramp that prevented the chain from ever skating on the tops of the teeth ("neutral") rather than engaging down on the ring in the correct way. A problem which I have never seen happen without the ramp, but Schwinn knows best...
Mark B
Nice lookin 5-vis there. I bet the 54 came off an early-'70s Schwinn Sports Touring, do we know? It has the extra set of bolt holes where Schwinn had TA add a shifting ramp that prevented the chain from ever skating on the tops of the teeth ("neutral") rather than engaging down on the ring in the correct way. A problem which I have never seen happen without the ramp, but Schwinn knows best...
Mark B
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#160
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No! 50-40 or fight!
Nice lookin 5-vis there. I bet the 54 came off an early-'70s Schwinn Sports Touring, do we know? It has the extra set of bolt holes where Schwinn had TA add a shifting ramp that prevented the chain from ever skating on the tops of the teeth ("neutral") rather than engaging down on the ring in the correct way. A problem which I have never seen happen without the ramp, but Schwinn knows best...
Mark B
Nice lookin 5-vis there. I bet the 54 came off an early-'70s Schwinn Sports Touring, do we know? It has the extra set of bolt holes where Schwinn had TA add a shifting ramp that prevented the chain from ever skating on the tops of the teeth ("neutral") rather than engaging down on the ring in the correct way. A problem which I have never seen happen without the ramp, but Schwinn knows best...
Mark B
What I found with the Schwinn spec. on that TA unit was that they used 5mm spacers between the rings, which is bigger than the spacing on all of the cranks I have. With the shifting ramp all worked well, but I did have some engagement issues when I ran it without the ramp, intermittent, but I could never get it to completely go away. I kind of wanted to remove the ramp and outer guard for aesthetic reasons. The Velo Orange hardware utilizes 3.6mm spacers, closer to all of my other vintage setups. Plus, the old nuts and bolts were looking a little tired.
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#161
blahblahblah chrome moly
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I used to have real TA spacers in thicknesses from 2.5 to 4.5 mm, every half mm. Now I have used up one or two of the sizes so I can't say I have them all anymore but I know they existed. I guess I must have had 5 mm too, since I had one of those Sports Touring cranksets... just never measured them. Wacky.
BTW, not that you need them, but did you know there are very good repro TA crank stickers available? Of course the cranks look fine without them, but if you want them, I got mine from Grey Softley in Australia.
Mark B
#162
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Ah right, wider spacing, that makes sense. "It's a Schwinn thing, you wouldn't understand"
I used to have real TA spacers in thicknesses from 2.5 to 4.5 mm, every half mm. Now I have used up one or two of the sizes so I can't say I have them all anymore but I know they existed. I guess I must have had 5 mm too, since I had one of those Sports Touring cranksets... just never measured them. Wacky.
BTW, not that you need them, but did you know there are very good repro TA crank stickers available? Of course the cranks look fine without them, but if you want them, I got mine from Grey Softley in Australia.
Mark B
I used to have real TA spacers in thicknesses from 2.5 to 4.5 mm, every half mm. Now I have used up one or two of the sizes so I can't say I have them all anymore but I know they existed. I guess I must have had 5 mm too, since I had one of those Sports Touring cranksets... just never measured them. Wacky.
BTW, not that you need them, but did you know there are very good repro TA crank stickers available? Of course the cranks look fine without them, but if you want them, I got mine from Grey Softley in Australia.
Mark B
#163
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1957 Peugeot PL-50
Restored this bike about a year ago. I replaced the cotter crank with the 49D. Timeless design.
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#165
blahblahblah chrome moly
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I recently came across this 50.4 BCD cottered steel crankset. Drive side has the Williams logo. Non-drive side has no logo. Chamfer on back side is just a little larger on drive side crank.
Both are marked "Made in England" on the front and "1/2" on the back.
Any suggestions for date of manufacture? What is the significance of the letter "Z" below the Williams logo?
Brent
Both are marked "Made in England" on the front and "1/2" on the back.
Any suggestions for date of manufacture? What is the significance of the letter "Z" below the Williams logo?
Brent
Mark B
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#166
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I have another TA crankset ( more modern to match the updated drivetrain) on my camper, but this is the crankset that came with the bike. The bike was nicely cared for by the previous owner, and the crankset was in very nice, very unmarked shape. I can switch back very easily with just a spindle swap and front derailleur adjustment. The PRO 5 has to be the most versatile and enduring crankset ever produced. It seems that TA has tried to discontinue it 4-5 times and then a few years later it is back again.
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#167
If I own it, I ride it
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#169
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Although not a long cage, it is the model where the pivot is near the upper jockey wheel rather than centered on the cage. I believe it is designated as a "T" model.
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#170
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#171
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was wondering why maker placed canti bosses on seat stays rather than laterals...
reckon they did not wish to end up with straddle cable above lateral tube
seems like it would have been a simple matter to have then facing downward from the laterals
build planning for a doublet frame somewhat mo' complex than for a singlet...
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#172
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Does anyone know the bb axle length for Electra Ticino 50.4 crank arms (seen here)? I feel like I'd found it somewhere before, but can't turn it up now. I just got 46/30t TA chainrings and the VO double chainring bolts. I'll be able to try a few options at work tomorrow, but if anyone could save me some time trying different length bottom brackets, it would be greatly appreciated!
EDIT: My findings are thus; 113 is too short (chain rubbing big ring when cross-chained small/small), 116 seems more appropriate. 115 would maybe be ideal?
EDIT: My findings are thus; 113 is too short (chain rubbing big ring when cross-chained small/small), 116 seems more appropriate. 115 would maybe be ideal?
Last edited by Rooney; 04-05-23 at 06:09 PM.
#173
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I've made a few CNC chainrings for 50.4bcd cranks lately. Mainly replicas of old French chainrings which are impossible to find these days. I am planning to make a few more designs. All the hardware is CNC made from stainless steel btw.
Cyclo Rosa and Simplex Touriste replicas
Stronglight Diamond Touriste/Super Touriste. One of the most beautiful chainrings ever made imho
My own take on Herse Clover style inspired by early Verot chainrings
Cyclo Rosa and Simplex Touriste replicas
Stronglight Diamond Touriste/Super Touriste. One of the most beautiful chainrings ever made imho
My own take on Herse Clover style inspired by early Verot chainrings
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#174
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I've made a few CNC chainrings for 50.4bcd cranks lately. Mainly replicas of old French chainrings which are impossible to find these days. I am planning to make a few more designs. All the hardware is CNC made from stainless steel btw.
Cyclo Rosa and Simplex Touriste replicas
Stronglight Diamond Touriste/Super Touriste. One of the most beautiful chainrings ever made imho
My own take on Herse Clover style inspired by early Verot chainrings
Cyclo Rosa and Simplex Touriste replicas
Stronglight Diamond Touriste/Super Touriste. One of the most beautiful chainrings ever made imho
My own take on Herse Clover style inspired by early Verot chainrings
thanks so much for sharing these beauties!
have long been a fan of the Simplex Touriste...but alas, as you write they are rare on the ground and the examples one is able to locate be typically in a poor state o' preservation...
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#175
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The Cyclo Rosa and the Stronglight are "copied" from the originals as well.