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Giant Escape Thread

Old 07-03-21, 11:54 AM
  #101  
rwmct
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Just picked up an Escape 2 disc. Will be interested to see how I like it. I have been riding a 1974 or 75 Jenet ten speed I bought new in high school. I don't love the bent over the bars position of the ten speed.
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Old 07-04-21, 07:29 PM
  #102  
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I thought I would show off my new Escape 3. I named it The Jolly Green Giant.

My first modification was the Wake stem riser. My wrists and forearms need some relief over the stock position.




i added the ergonomic handlebar grips. I have these on my other bike and liked them. I transferred the light and cellphone holder from my old bike.




I also added the under seat bag. All these items were Amazon purchases.




the biggest improvement was the freewheel change that was discussed earlier in the thread. The DNP 11-28 gearing is perfect for me. The increase in speed was what I was seeking. Thank you to ScreamingB for the help. The gear change took all of 10 minutes from start to finish.




I also changed pedals to Outul Dual sided petals. The clips really make a difference.

Last edited by Cutsit; 07-04-21 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 07-20-21, 06:53 AM
  #103  
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Giant Escape disk 3 2001 issue

Hi there, I'm a complete novice when it comes to bikes, so please treat me like I know nothing as I don't!!

I've recently bought the Giant Escape 3 2021, previously had a specialised sirrus hybrid sport 2017 which was stolen. I use my bike to commute but prefer a hybrid as feels safer and more steady than the road bike I used to have.

My commute is mostly decent paved roads, not much incline and a few fairly quick spots with long downhill.

I've just taken out my Giant for the first time and a big problem, its so slow on flat and downhill. Just no resistance. Even on the inclines I can almost pedal in 7x3 the biggest gear, I basically don't see the need for nearly all the other gears. And as soon as I get on flat or decline I run out of power... it just seems weird for a bike to be like this and I'd read reviews saying how good it was.

The sirrus had big gears and I could always put power through it apart from on the biggest downhill bits. This bike just nothing even on flat my legs are going round like crazy after a bit of acceleration.

I think I'm going to have to sell it and look for another bike. the point of my post I guess was to see if this was normal.for this bike? The bike came pre-made bar a few bits so it's not anything I done wrong in building it. And I've ran through all the gears definitely running in the biggest one (if that's the right terminology?)

Really disappointed seems quite a big issue so surprised the bike is so popular.

Is there any fix I can do and would it be costly. Bear in mind I doubt I could do it myself unless it's very easy.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-20-21, 07:08 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by Simonh2k
Hi there, I'm a complete novice when it comes to bikes, so please treat me like I know nothing as I don't!!

I've recently bought the Giant Escape 3 2021, previously had a specialised sirrus hybrid sport 2017 which was stolen. I use my bike to commute but prefer a hybrid as feels safer and more steady than the road bike I used to have.

My commute is mostly decent paved roads, not much incline and a few fairly quick spots with long downhill.

I've just taken out my Giant for the first time and a big problem, its so slow on flat and downhill. Just no resistance. Even on the inclines I can almost pedal in 7x3 the biggest gear, I basically don't see the need for nearly all the other gears. And as soon as I get on flat or decline I run out of power... it just seems weird for a bike to be like this and I'd read reviews saying how good it was.

The sirrus had big gears and I could always put power through it apart from on the biggest downhill bits. This bike just nothing even on flat my legs are going round like crazy after a bit of acceleration.

I think I'm going to have to sell it and look for another bike. the point of my post I guess was to see if this was normal.for this bike? The bike came pre-made bar a few bits so it's not anything I done wrong in building it. And I've ran through all the gears definitely running in the biggest one (if that's the right terminology?)

Really disappointed seems quite a big issue so surprised the bike is so popular.

Is there any fix I can do and would it be costly. Bear in mind I doubt I could do it myself unless it's very easy.

Thanks in advance.
You have to follow what Cutsit did as shown above, which is to change the freewheel to a DNP 11-28. The smallest cog of 11 will give you more room to pedal, thus you won't run out of spin as fast.
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Old 07-20-21, 07:14 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by ScreamingB
You have to follow what Cutsit did as shown above, which is to change the freewheel to a DNP 11-28. The smallest cog of 11 will give you more room to pedal, thus you won't run out of spin as fast.
thanks I've looked back over the thread and found the posts. Will this make a significant difference, as it feels like quite a big change is needed as I was miles of the power I can normally put in.
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Old 07-20-21, 03:42 PM
  #106  
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It will make a significant difference. Before the change in free wheels, I spent most of my time in 6th and 7th cruising on flat ground. I would spin out on any steep downhill. After the change, I cruise in 4th, 5th and 6th and use 7th for those steep downhills. I don’t spin out.

I bought the freewheel from Walmart.com.


A special tool is required. I purchased the Park Tools FR 1.3 https://www.parktool.com/product/fre...remover-fr-1-3


The only other tool required would be a 1 inch socket or box end wrench to turn the special tool.

The process is simple:

1. Remove the wheel.
2. unscrew the axle and pull out of hub. Note the orientation of the springs.
3. Insert the splined portion of the special tool into the hub. Use the socket or wrench to loosen the freewheel. Turn counter clockwise.
4. Keep spinning until it comes off.
5. Put grease or anti-seize on the threads of the new freewheel.
6. Carefully screw the new freewheel on to the hub. Take care not to cross thread the new freewheel. It should spin on easily.
7. Use the special tool and wrench to tighten (clockwise). You don’t need to over tighten.
8. Reinstall axle and mount wheel.

It took me less time to complete the install than it did to type this.

Last edited by Cutsit; 07-20-21 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 07-22-21, 04:03 AM
  #107  
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Thank you, you've convinced me to give it a go.
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Old 08-01-21, 09:49 AM
  #108  
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Just to introduce myself. Noob here but have been lurking for some time.
'm a senior citizen getting back into cycling, have a road bike which I haven't ridden in the past few years.
Just picked up an escape 2. Hopefully to enjoy some fitness rides, even though probably won't be straying too far from home, here on the west coast of Florida cycling is a very risky business.

Fred
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Old 08-02-21, 11:46 AM
  #109  
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New member here, apparently you can’t post pics until you have 10 posts so consider this a placeholder. Picked up my new Escape 3 disc Friday after work and took it 24 miles yesterday.
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Old 08-03-21, 09:46 AM
  #110  
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I would post a pic of my Garnet Red escape 2, but gotta wait on the 10 post rule.
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Old 08-03-21, 10:24 AM
  #111  
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Looking to change the pedals to shimano pd-eh500, first chance I get.
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Old 08-08-21, 08:40 AM
  #112  
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Got the pedals in yesterday, installed them and went for a ride. These pedals are far better than stock. and it's real easy to loose pins, lost one during install. Somewhere in my garage.

.
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Old 08-24-21, 11:45 PM
  #113  
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Mods

Did some mods on my Escape 1 Disc and it turned into a better bike.

1. 640mm riser bar to 600mm carbon flat bar.
2. 90mm +17 degree to 80mm +7 degree
3. Ergon GP3

Bike is more agile and responsive when cornering due to narrower handlebar and shorter stem. The Ergon is super comfy and the horns did help when climbing. Overall I'm happy with these mods.



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Old 09-08-21, 06:46 AM
  #114  
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I picked up an Escape yesterday and I'm struggling to see if this is the Escape 1, 2 or 3 and what year. The closest I can find on the Giant website is the 2014 Escape 1 - but I am still not sure. Does anyone know from the picture?



I was comparing my picture with this on Giant's website: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/escape-1-2014
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Old 09-08-21, 09:03 AM
  #115  
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This is most likely an Escape 3 based on Tourney rear derailleur and what appears to be a freewheel (instead of a cassette). The 2014 model year looks about right.

Escape 3 (2014) | Giant Bicycles United States (giant-bicycles.com)
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Old 09-09-21, 03:13 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
This is most likely an Escape 3 based on Tourney rear derailleur and what appears to be a freewheel (instead of a cassette). The 2014 model year looks about right.

Escape 3 (2014) | Giant Bicycles United States (giant-bicycles.com)
Thanks - it just seemed a tough one to call visually at least - because the front mech looks visually different on the 3 on the website to the one I have on mine? Perhaps mine is a mixed bag with some original and some upgraded / changed parts.

You experience is excellent to recognise a Tourney without being able to see the branding - I'm not at that experience level (being a complete novice).

I suppose what I would like to know is - I paid £100 for it - is that a good price ?
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Old 09-09-21, 05:17 AM
  #117  
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I'd say 100 pounds ($138 using today's exchange rate) is a good price for any rideable bike in the global market we have today, yes. Your rear wheel will be a more definitive clue as to the identity of this bike. If it has a freewheel, then it's almost certainly an Escape 3. It would have had a Shimano freewheel from the factory, and it would me marked with a large white part number, such as "MF-TZ31" or something very similar to that. Shimano freewheel part numbers start with "MF". If it's a cassette, it may have a part number that starts with "CS", such as "CS-HG200" or similar.

An Escape 3 had a 7-speed freewheel and Tourney components with the bright crankset arms. The Escape 2 moved up to an 8-speed drivetrain with a cassette and black colored crankset arms. The Escape 1 moved up to a 9-speed drivetrain.

One curious thing I see is the seat post clamp area. It looks like there's a black clamp or mount down near where I'd expect the seat post collar to be. Then, above that, there's a silver anodized seat post clamp. What is the lower clamp? Is that one designed to be able to mount a rack, with its two rearward extensions? If that's clamping the seat post into the frame, then you wouldn't need the upper, second clamp. If that upper, second clamp is clamped around the seat post itself, acting as a down-travel stop for the seat post, and the lower clamp or object is not clamping the seat post into the frame, then that's not correct. You'd want to reconfigure it so the seat post clamp clamps the seat post into the seat tube extension of the frame. I hope that makes sense.
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Old 09-09-21, 08:18 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
I'd say 100 pounds ($138 using today's exchange rate) is a good price for any rideable bike in the global market we have today, yes. Your rear wheel will be a more definitive clue as to the identity of this bike. If it has a freewheel, then it's almost certainly an Escape 3. It would have had a Shimano freewheel from the factory, and it would me marked with a large white part number, such as "MF-TZ31" or something very similar to that. Shimano freewheel part numbers start with "MF". If it's a cassette, it may have a part number that starts with "CS", such as "CS-HG200" or similar.

An Escape 3 had a 7-speed freewheel and Tourney components with the bright crankset arms. The Escape 2 moved up to an 8-speed drivetrain with a cassette and black colored crankset arms. The Escape 1 moved up to a 9-speed drivetrain.

One curious thing I see is the seat post clamp area. It looks like there's a black clamp or mount down near where I'd expect the seat post collar to be. Then, above that, there's a silver anodized seat post clamp. What is the lower clamp? Is that one designed to be able to mount a rack, with its two rearward extensions? If that's clamping the seat post into the frame, then you wouldn't need the upper, second clamp. If that upper, second clamp is clamped around the seat post itself, acting as a down-travel stop for the seat post, and the lower clamp or object is not clamping the seat post into the frame, then that's not correct. You'd want to reconfigure it so the seat post clamp clamps the seat post into the seat tube extension of the frame. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the very very comprehensive reply - here's a better closeup of the seat-post area if that helps clarify things ...

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Old 09-09-21, 08:57 AM
  #119  
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Is the black item (plastic?) below the silver anodized seat clamp a reflector mount? If you remove that, the seat post clamp will still be firmly clamping the seat post into the seat tube of the frame, right?
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Old 09-10-21, 01:36 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by hokiefyd
Is the black item (plastic?) below the silver anodized seat clamp a reflector mount? If you remove that, the seat post clamp will still be firmly clamping the seat post into the seat tube of the frame, right?
Yes that's about right - the plastic reflector mount is 'directly' beneath the seat post clamp.
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Old 10-01-21, 12:26 PM
  #121  
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2020 Giant Escape 2 disc 1x10 conversion?

Howdy, Newbie here.
I picked up a 2020 Escape 2 earlier this year, after having stopped riding my Fuji road bike to commute in Houston a few years ago. Too many daily close calls with impatient and phone distracted “drivers”.

I wanted something that was fast, but also a bit more capable off pavement, with wider tires and cargo potential. Something i could confidently haul ass through the gravel trails of the park to get to work instead of battling auto traffic.

The Escape 2 excels at exactly that, with a few upgrades, I absolutely love this bike!

So far i’ve swapped out the awful stock pedals with Crankbrother Stamp1, replaced the tires with Teravail Washburns, replaced the cheap plastic bottom bracket (which blew out the first curb i had to go off of) with an aluminum cartridge (exact kind escapes me at the moment), added a Topeak rear rack, a Giant kickstand, and some huge Lumintrail panniers. I have some black smooth Honjo fenders and a fork crown mount headlight extender on order, to complete the functionality as a daily commuter, errand runner, and fun time bike in H-town.

NOW, here’s my query to the bikeforum community:

I’m interested in potentially upgrading the drive train to a 1x10. I’d love to fit a 44t or even 46t chainring to a 11-50t 10 speed cassette.

I know I’ll need a new crankset + BB, and a new 10so shifter & clutched derailleur combo, but I think the 10 sp cassette will go on the stock hub, is that correct?

Also, will a 46T chainring fit? What crankset would be best for this purpose? What would i need to get the right chainline for the shifting to be solid?

Sorry for the newb query, but i’ve been wading through tons of product descriptions, articles and forum posts and i’m still just not clear on exactly what gear will work and if this desired set up is even possible on this bike.

Any expertise and advice about this is welcome, thank you!
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Old 10-01-21, 06:51 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Mackowski
Hi All
Only last week I've brought 2021 Giant Escape 2 disc. Want to get some mudguards, rear rack and a bag.
Totally my fault as should've researched it more but only noticed that the rear mudguard mount point (can't upload pics to the forum yet) is facing 'downwards?',have any of you came across that? I dont like fixed mudguards, rather get clip on ones, anyone can recommend?
As to the rack I'm thinking - Bontrager bike rack deluxe, I know its Trek owned but hoping it will fit Giant, any ideas?
Bag - Bontrager MIK utility trunk bag.
I like the idea of quick release that MIK provide. I've never used any similar systems, can anyone share their opinion on this?
Lovely ride in the snow this morning
Best
Mack
Howdy, 2020 Escape 2 Disc commuter in H-town here.

The wheel facing mount point in the wheel stay bridge stymied my plan for quick release fenders too.

I was sure that i could find a piece of hardware, like a small L shaped mounting bracket with a hole on one side to attach to the mount point, and a short, threaded 5m bolt-shank on the other side, to attach the top fender mount to, that could be an effective adapter.

Admittedly, I didn’t do an unassailably exhaustive search, but I couldn’t find one.

But it was all a moot point because the perpetually muddy and puddled gravel track i take through the park, my main route to work and back every day, has convinced me the wisdom of quality, hard mounted fenders.
I have some really nice, black aluminum Honjo fenders on the way.

Installation will be a relatively much more involved process than a quick mount mudguard, all mounting points must be determined, marked and drilled out through both fenders, by the buyer. I’m looking forward to it.

Also, at first I did buy a PDW SodaPop quick mount mudguard and just hard-mounted it to the wheel facing mount point on the wheel stay bridge. it sat at an awkwardly high angle, and I ultimately had to remove it when i put the rear rack on because it was in the way.

I chose the Topeak Explorer rack, and even though my Escape 2 is hydraulic disc, i found that, because of the engineering of the frame, I didn’t need the Disc version, the non-disc version fit perfectly. It was pretty simple to install, i just wish the stainless steel braces were black instead. I might paint them.

Topeak has a line of bags that utilize their rear rack quick rail system, if that is a feature you are seeking. I went with some huge Lumintrail 46L double panniers so i can buy several days worth of groceries in one trip and not have to drive my car to the store.

I’ve had two, over stuffed, full-sized brown paper grocery bags in the panniers and a 12 pack of Topo-Chico bottles bungeed to the rack. Bike gets a little tippy loaded up that much, but still handles the ride home like a champ.

The Lumintrail Panniers aren’t exactly “quick release” out of the box, but with a couple 3/4” straps with side release buckles, they effectively became quick-release.

Anyway, just my 2 cents. Enjoy your bike, and customize it how you want. I know i’ve been obsessed with mine.
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Old 11-21-21, 06:52 PM
  #123  
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Just picked up what I think is a 2019 Escape 2 disk and promptly snapped one of the two screws in the seat post clamp. What are peoples experiences with the d-fuse setup? I kinda liked the idea till I snapped the bolt. My thought is the previous owner had overtightened and it was due to snap. Rest of the bike is solid however.
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Old 11-21-21, 07:19 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by southgatecycles
Just picked up what I think is a 2019 Escape 2 disk and promptly snapped one of the two screws in the seat post clamp. What are peoples experiences with the d-fuse setup? I kinda liked the idea till I snapped the bolt. My thought is the previous owner had overtightened and it was due to snap. Rest of the bike is solid however.
The Dfuse collar and the stem.. be very careful and never tighten it to the spec of 5Nm or you risk stripping the thread. I stripped one of the stem thread on my brand new Escape 1 . These screws will keep going as long as you screw it if you set your torque wrench at the max torque of 5Nm, until it breaks... i have adjusted my seat post twice, and never have the courage to touch it again.. i have a strong feeling if i do it one more time, it will break. My recommendation is to tighten it to 4Nm max. Have fun with the bike!
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Old 04-27-22, 04:53 PM
  #125  
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Made a couple of changes to my Escape City. Brooks saddle to replace stock.

I'd been messing around with different stems to get a bit more upright and take some pressure off my wrists but still was having issues. Rather than give up on the bike, I added a Velo Orange Crazy Bar this evening (still need to get some bar tape on the bullhorns and likely swap out the GP2 grips). In my short test ride around my parking garage, this feels like it will do the trick. I will need to be conscious that the sweeps don't hit my knees when making sharp turns. Hoping the weather cooperates so I can get out for a decent ride.





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