TerryDi2C

Sort of, but if it says there is an error, that usually means there is an error .

When you run error check / diagnostics in E-Tube Project it'll perform several actions/operations on each component. For example, if you run diagnostics on the Junction A, one of the things it'll do is switch on the LEDs and then ask the user "did the LED illuminate?" (or something like that).
Other checks are automatic, or semi-automatic. For shift levers, it asks "Please press this button" and show an image of the button to press.The mechanic then presses the button and E-Tube Project sees that and knows the button is working (or not).

For the derailleurs though, I believe it shifts to the right gears on its own and then report the result without any human interaction.
I have a meeting in 5 minutes, but I'll connect my SM-PCE02 (is on my desk) to my indoor bike (right behind me) after that

TerryDi2C

I've uploaded a video here:


So yeah, if you really wanted to, you could intentionally get the tests to fail. I don't think any mechanic will really do this though ;-)
I did, in this particular case... pressed the wrong button on one of my shift levers, and got it to fail the check.

The service report is attached to this post.

Koyote

TerryDi2C , I've said it before, but you are consistently one of the most generous and helpful posters on this forum!

M4tt3 , it could be the RD. I once had my DI2 bike in the shop for another reason, and on the test ride, they noticed that the RD would sometimes not shift. (I had not noticed it.) After the mechanic had cleaned it all out and had also cleaned out the clutch mechanism (Ultegra RX RD), it still didn't work. A phone call with Shimano tech support didn't help, either. Something had gone wrong, and the solution was a new RD. Fortunately, I was the bike's original owner, and Shimano replaced the RD at no cost.

If I were paying out-of-pocket, I would ask my shop if they have another Di2 RD that they could put on my bike to test the theory. I wouldn't want to buy an expensive RD and then find out that it didn't fix the problem.

M4tt3

[QUOTE=

If I were paying out-of-pocket, I would ask my shop if they have another Di2 RD that they could put on my bike to test the theory. I wouldn't want to buy an expensive RD and then find out that it didn't fix the problem.[/QUOTE]

Thank you, that may be the approach I will take. It's still rideable so I can wait a bit before buying new DR.

Iride01 

Don't drink too many IPA's before you remove the cogs and spacers from the freehub!. <grin>

Put a 8" or so cable tie through them as soon as the entire stack is pulled off as one piece. Leave the cable tie loose enough so that they can be individually cleaned without getting any thing out of order. Mineral spirits works better than IPA's or is IPA something other than India Pale Ale?

Easy enough to do it all in reverse to put them on while maintaining the proper order.

Barry2 

IPA
India Pale Ale Or Isopropyl Alcohol.

A cassette cleaning could utilize both.

but it’s the beer that assembles cogs incorrectly after forgetting the zip tie.

Barry

rm -rf

You could also try a drop of chain lube on all the pivot points of the derailleur. I lube mine a few times a year.

I used to swap cassettes fairly often for different riding situations. So I built a few cassette holders. It's just a piece of 3/4 x 4 inch pine with a 4-5 inch dowel glued into a center hole. It's nice to have an extra one, so I can pull a cassette, stack it upside down on one, then take off each layer, clean it, and stack it onto the other one. My spare cassettes stay on these holders, too. Yeah, mineral spirits works great.

M4tt3

So I also tried today my 'hack' to add washer between the frame and the hanger. It was very short lived as once there the wheel didn't fit in as it (now obviously) narrowed the space.

M4tt3

Here are also some pictures of my DR and the casette and the eTube project report.

Barry2 

Here is what I did to test.
I connected my PC running E-Tube 5.0.1 Professional
to
Shimano SM-PCE02 (DI2 to Computer interface)
to
RD-R8050-SS (Rear Derailleur)
No bike, no battery, no shifters, just the RD-R8050 connected via an E-Tube wire the the Interface.
Yes... This professional Di2 interface connects via an E-Tube wire and not via the Charging port on the bike.

I ran the gear shift test in the E-Tube software.

The RD-R8050 moves through it's steps (just sitting alone on my desk).
The Software then asks "Does the gear position match the rear derailleur stopping position"
There are two buttons "Yes" & "No" I can click either one.
Upon clicking "yes" the RD moves in the opposite direction and asks again "Yes" or "No"
If I click "No" I get a Failed Report.

This is what I meant by the Reported "Pass" or "Fail" being a manual selection.
If the RD actually failed to move through all 11 gear positions, well maybe it could tell and automagically fail the report.
BUT, OP is not reporting that the RD fails to move.

I think the Tech would have reported a non-moving RD as totally stuffed!

So I suspect the Tech manually selected a Failed report based on the skipping/bad change of gears.

Hope this helps

Barry

​​​​​

Barry2 

M4tt3
Where are you located. Who knows, maybe a local might offer to help you.
Even if that is to simply point you at a Shop able to give a deeper diagnosis.
I've said it before, I'll say it again... I like IPA and I'm never adverse to a trade!

All the best

Barry

M4tt3

I am from London, UK

Koyote

That's a long trip. Better promise Barry2 a couple IPAs.

Barry2 

I lived in Harlow and commuted the 30 miles to London daily.
But now I’m in the Bay Area.
30 years ago, I’d have offered to help with your Di2

Barry

M4tt3

I can imagine that Bay Area have some nice cycling routes.

M4tt3

I went for a ride yesterday, gears all over the place. The last idea before trying new DR is to fit an extra spacer between the spokes and the casette to shift it towards the DR to give me more options with indexing. Not sure though if the spacer would fit.

M4tt3

I just discovered that my casette has shifted and bitten into the freewheel. This needs replacing and I suspect that it may be at least contributing to the shifting problem as the clogs are not aligned.

Barry2 

Nice catch. That can't help.
Is the Freehub Body replaceable on your hub/wheels?

Barry

PS: Is that cog missing a tooth?

M4tt3

Not sure, can it not be replaceable? I haven't dealt with freehubs before.

All teeth there, the picture is misleading.

Barry2 

Freehubs are removable in order to service/lube the internal moving parts (the "ratchety" bit).
Some hub manufacturers offer spare parts and make the body replaceable.
Example... Mavic... you can replace a worn out ($50) Shimano/SRAM Freehub body, or swap to one compatible with Campagnolo.

Google is your friend.

Barry

TPL

Funny, I never have any of these type of problems on my FRICTION SHIFTING bicycle !

Barry2 

TPL
I think you're a little lost in this Di2 related thread.
I believe THIS was what you were looking for !

Barry

M4tt3

Thanks Barry. Also for your call earlier. I will see the type of the hub once I am able to remove the cassette as so far my screwdriver/hammer approach resulted only in few cuts on my hands. It's properly stuck there. I would love like to claim that the shifted casette is a the result of my super legs power and the wattage going through the pedals but somehow think that the answer is different.

Barry2 

You’ll need a chain-whip or two to remove those.
in a pinch, I’ve used an old chain and a ring spanner to make a whip.

Barry

sweeks

Not that this is necessarily related to your shifting problem, but there doesn't seem to be much lubricant on your drivetrain. This might account for the wear on your freehub body.