Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Mounting under-BB-shell plastic guides

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Mounting under-BB-shell plastic guides

Old 03-07-23, 10:24 AM
  #1  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,415

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Liked 615 Times in 394 Posts
Mounting under-BB-shell plastic guides

On a bike where I think I should resort to passing shift cables under the shell, I keep seeing references to "Shimano Bottom Bracket Cable Guide SM-SP17" or equivalent: LINK But I see some come with no hardware, some come with a sheet metal screw (ugh!) and there are references to an M5 bolt. In some instances I've read of an insert that goes inside the shell (I presume designed to stay clear of bearing cups, etc.) And electing a particular model # during searches does not ensure a purchase means one will get anything other than no hardware or the sheet metal screw. OK, time to "make it right". I would imagine am M5 button-head bolt is not all that hard to find (of course, I'll end up with a bag of 25, and thus 24 left over ). So (a) what would the insert look like, is it possible to make one; I'd presume a nut is too small so now we're talking a scrap of metal shaped to fit, and then drilled/tapped, or (b) isn't the BB shell thick enough to drill and tap directly? Or, of course, if someone else makes a better one...


__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.


tiger1964 is online now  
Old 03-07-23, 10:34 AM
  #2  
AngryScientist 
Lost
 
AngryScientist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: nutley, nj
Posts: 4,600
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked 113 Times in 45 Posts
BB shell is beefy enough to drill and tap, no problem. All the big box stores carry metric hardware in stainless steel, just go down to the local HD or Lowes and pick up a couple.
AngryScientist is offline  
Likes For AngryScientist:
Old 03-07-23, 10:53 AM
  #3  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,691

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 510 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7287 Post(s)
Liked 2,365 Times in 1,382 Posts
It’s possible to get lucky and not even need a guide. I tried that on my Super Course, but it didn’t work out. So I drilled and tapped a hole. I was using a cartridge BB, and my bolt was too long, interfering with the BB. So I had to carefully cut the bolt down. Overall, it was pretty involved, but it worked out.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 11:02 AM
  #4  
SpedFast
Just Pedaling
 
SpedFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 958

Bikes: YEP!

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 491 Times in 325 Posts
Drill a hole and use a self tapping screw. I did it on an old Giant and it never gave me any problems. Use a thread lock or grease on the screw when you put it in to stay. Screws can be had individually at any hardware store (Ace, etc.) I got the plastic guide off the bay for >buck. The screw cost more because I went stainless. Good luck,
SpedFast is offline  
Likes For SpedFast:
Old 03-07-23, 11:11 AM
  #5  
Lattz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,091

Bikes: 80s Alan Super Record, 79' Somec Special, 90s Rossin(?) Columbus Ego Triathlon, previously: Bianchi SBX Reparto Corse (stolen) and so on...

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 391 Post(s)
Liked 812 Times in 602 Posts
As others suggested, drill and tap. On my alu CAAD4, PO torn the piece out leaving a martian crater where the orig screw holes were, I drilled a small hole size of a needle just to guide and let a wood screw to make itself comfy.
Barbarian as hell, but it works, actually it just has to keep thing laterally stabile, since the cables are anyway holding it, but its strong engough anyway. No epoxy/etc.. was used.
Lattz is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 12:19 PM
  #6  
gugie 
Bike Butcher of Portland
 
gugie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,641

Bikes: It's complicated.

Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4670 Post(s)
Liked 5,769 Times in 2,272 Posts
I buy mine from framebuildersupply.com. I do a lot of framework, so I order them 10 at a time. They sell them for $0.95 each, 10 for $8. They come with a screw. If you lose the screw, most any M5 screw will work just fine. Length is only critical if you're using a cartridge sealed bottom bracket, as you don't want the screw to hit the sleeve on the BB, so choose your length wisely.

Easy drill and tap into the bottom bracket, which are typically mild steel, as others have noted.

One thing to check, if you have a brazed on cable stop on the chain stay, make sure it's on the bottom of the stay. If it's braze onto the top you can't use one. It may seem obvious, but I've done stupider things in the past.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.

Last edited by gugie; 03-07-23 at 12:25 PM.
gugie is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 12:31 PM
  #7  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,415

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Liked 615 Times in 394 Posts
Originally Posted by AngryScientist
BB shell is beefy enough to drill and tap, no problem. All the big box stores carry metric hardware in stainless steel, just go down to the local HD or Lowes and pick up a couple.
Good to hear. Of the two major big-box home center chains, both at <2 miles away but Big Orange has their own screw/bolt brand, "Built-Rite" or something like that, and so many bolt heads have sheared off on various applications I dare not use them!

Originally Posted by Lattz
As others suggested, drill and tap. On my alu CAAD4, PO torn the piece out leaving a martian crater where the orig screw holes were
It hurts to read that.

Originally Posted by Lattz
I drilled a small hole size of a needle just to guide and let a wood screw to make itself comfy.
Good point -- I have a generic drill guide, but designed for flat surfaces only. Then again, tiny holes are a challenge; I tried drilling a stem a while back as a pilot hole before boring out to the size to be a centerpull cable stop. Half a drill bit is still in there.

Originally Posted by gugie
I buy mine from framebuildersupply.com. They come with a screw. If you lose the screw, most any M5 screw will work just fine. Length is only critical if you're using a cartridge sealed bottom bracket, as you don't want the screw to hit the sleeve on the BB, so choose your length wisely. Easy drill and tap into the bottom bracket, which are typically mild steel.
Thanks, I'll look that one over and decide which I like best. (Black versus blue? Why can't I get red?) That one comes with a bolt whose head is that combination straight-slot/Phillips head that I think of as "Japanese screw" and I have an aversion... and no idea why.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.


tiger1964 is online now  
Old 03-07-23, 12:57 PM
  #8  
gugie 
Bike Butcher of Portland
 
gugie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,641

Bikes: It's complicated.

Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4670 Post(s)
Liked 5,769 Times in 2,272 Posts
Originally Posted by tiger1964
Thanks, I'll look that one over and decide which I like best. (Black versus blue? Why can't I get red?) That one comes with a bolt whose head is that combination straight-slot/Phillips head that I think of as "Japanese screw" and I have an aversion... and no idea why.
Once you install it, you don't see it. The screw works just fine, don't overthink it!
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
gugie is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 01:03 PM
  #9  
AngryScientist 
Lost
 
AngryScientist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: nutley, nj
Posts: 4,600
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked 113 Times in 45 Posts
whatever you put down there, make it stainless. Thats the wettest part of the bike and steel screws get rusty fast down there.
AngryScientist is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 01:12 PM
  #10  
OldForerunner
Top Seeded Amateur
 
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 88

Bikes: Kestrels, Peugeots, EPX, Scott, Trek, C-dale, Jeunet

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 105 Times in 41 Posts
+1 on drill and tap.

Successfully completed on a 1973 Jeunet and a 1986 Peugeot PSN-10. The Peugeot already had a hole for the rivet so just needed tapping. Removed the rivet because a) I hate rivets and b) needed her completely stripped for the painter

Use an appropriate length stainless button head screw.
OldForerunner is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 01:27 PM
  #11  
unworthy1
Stop reading my posts!
 
unworthy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,959
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1422 Post(s)
Liked 1,038 Times in 769 Posts
I like using threads, some BB shells have a plain hole cause the original plastic guide came with a "split plug" similar to a lot of automotive fittings for trim and shields (that typically fail, but that's another rant). If it's "missing" threads I add them, not trusting "self-tapping" screws or sheet-metal or wood threads.
YMMV
I find I almost always need to trim the length of the (always SS) bolt or machine screw, but I'm used to doing that.
I've found many Shimano guides came in purple (as well as black or blue) and always a bit mystified as to what the "other hole" was for: I always use the one that fits road bike shells (68 or 70mm) and cannot figure out why the second, unless for a VERY wide Mtn bike shell?
unworthy1 is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 02:00 PM
  #12  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,415

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Liked 615 Times in 394 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie
Once you install it, you don't see it. The screw works just fine, don't overthink it!
Originally Posted by AngryScientist
whatever you put down there, make it stainless. Thats the wettest part of the bike and steel screws get rusty fast down there.
Which begs the question, is the supplied screw stainless?

Originally Posted by OldForerunner
+1 on drill and tap. Successfully completed on a 1973 Jeunet and a 1986 Peugeot PSN-10. The Peugeot already had a hole for the rivet so just needed tapping. Removed the rivet because a) I hate rivets and b) needed her completely stripped for the painter Use an appropriate length stainless button head screw.
Originally Posted by unworthy1
I like using threads, some BB shells have a plain hole cause the original plastic guide came with a "split plug" similar to a lot of automotive fittings for trim and shields (that typically fail, but that's another rant). If it's "missing" threads I add them, not trusting "self-tapping" screws or sheet-metal or wood threads.
Yeah, both a metal rivet and a plastic split-rivet are non-starters for me.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.


tiger1964 is online now  
Old 03-07-23, 02:10 PM
  #13  
gugie 
Bike Butcher of Portland
 
gugie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,641

Bikes: It's complicated.

Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4670 Post(s)
Liked 5,769 Times in 2,272 Posts
Originally Posted by tiger1964
Which begs the question, is the supplied screw stainless?




Yeah, both a metal rivet and a plastic split-rivet are non-starters for me.
Huh, never bothered to check! Luckily I rode my 8 year old 650b conversion "Big Red" into work today, reached under and took a crappy pic:



Yeah, pretty rusty! But it's lasted 8 years with no issues. M5 stainless screws aren't rare, though. Pan or button head would be preferrable, but most anything will work.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.

Last edited by gugie; 03-07-23 at 02:14 PM.
gugie is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 07:53 PM
  #14  
seedsbelize2
Senior Member
 
seedsbelize2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Yucatán. México
Posts: 6,057

Bikes: 79 Trek 930 is back on the road, 80 Trek 414, 84 Schwinn Letour Luxe,87 Schwinn Prelude, 92 Schwinn Paramount PDG 5

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 1,784 Times in 1,132 Posts
Originally Posted by tiger1964
On a bike where I think I should resort to passing shift cables under the shell, I keep seeing references to "Shimano Bottom Bracket Cable Guide SM-SP17" or equivalent: LINK But I see some come with no hardware, some come with a sheet metal screw (ugh!) and there are references to an M5 bolt. In some instances I've read of an insert that goes inside the shell (I presume designed to stay clear of bearing cups, etc.) And electing a particular model # during searches does not ensure a purchase means one will get anything other than no hardware or the sheet metal screw. OK, time to "make it right". I would imagine am M5 button-head bolt is not all that hard to find (of course, I'll end up with a bag of 25, and thus 24 left over ). So (a) what would the insert look like, is it possible to make one; I'd presume a nut is too small so now we're talking a scrap of metal shaped to fit, and then drilled/tapped, or (b) isn't the BB shell thick enough to drill and tap directly? Or, of course, if someone else makes a better one...


Currently unavailable. I'll look around and see id i can find one locally.

Last edited by seedsbelize2; 03-07-23 at 08:01 PM.
seedsbelize2 is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 08:04 PM
  #15  
nlerner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,127
Mentioned: 480 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3788 Post(s)
Liked 6,574 Times in 2,580 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie
Huh, never bothered to check! Luckily I rode my 8 year old 650b conversion "Big Red" into work today, reached under and took a crappy pic:



Yeah, pretty rusty! But it's lasted 8 years with no issues. M5 stainless screws aren't rare, though. Pan or button head would be preferrable, but most anything will work.
You sure that's not a pic of your lunch?
nlerner is online now  
Old 03-07-23, 08:22 PM
  #16  
cudak888 
www.theheadbadge.com
 
cudak888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,496

Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com

Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2401 Post(s)
Liked 4,350 Times in 2,075 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie
One thing to check, if you have a brazed on cable stop on the chain stay, make sure it's on the bottom of the stay. If it's braze onto the top you can't use one. It may seem obvious, but I've done stupider things in the past.
​​​​​​
I knew a Guerciotti like that. Only the other way around.





Some people have no business holding a brazing torch.

Originally Posted by nlerner
You sure that's not a pic of your lunch?
No, it's a pic of your basement

-Kurt
__________________












cudak888 is offline  
Old 03-07-23, 09:09 PM
  #17  
OldForerunner
Top Seeded Amateur
 
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 88

Bikes: Kestrels, Peugeots, EPX, Scott, Trek, C-dale, Jeunet

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 105 Times in 41 Posts
Originally Posted by gugie
One thing to check, if you have a brazed on cable stop on the chain stay, make sure it's on the bottom of the stay. If it's braze onto the top you can't use one. It may seem obvious, but I've done stupider things in the past.
​​​​​​I just had Mr. Cheaklas relocate the cable stop from the top to the bottom of chain stay on a '73 Jeunet as part of the restoration precisely for that reason.
OldForerunner is offline  
Old 03-21-23, 11:16 AM
  #18  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,415

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Liked 615 Times in 394 Posts
Originally Posted by tiger1964

Originally Posted by seedsbelize2
Currently unavailable. I'll look around and see id i can find one locally.
Unavailable? I am starting to believe you. OK, I got lazy/impatient and ordered one from Amazon... and got a due date further out than "two days". OK, but ten days later still in "label printed" status, not handed over to a carrier. Then I dug deeper, the "sold by" vendor has a horrible reputation, most customers experiencing the same thing as in they sold the item, printed a label, never shipped and never arrived. And the same seller name has a horrible reputation for doing the same thing on Ebay. OK, I ordered another one from another "sold by" yesterday. Shipped ASAP. This AM, already in transit from Baltimore MD which is 30 miles away, so I figure I'll have it in a day or two. I check again, and nine hours later it's in Davenport, FL... 900 miles away! I am starting to suspect either these parts simply do not exist, or someone does not want me to have one. And my project is stalled, I do not want to install the BB (so I can start checking on chain line, etc.) until I drill the shell and install this. Sheesh. Well, it gives me time to check my tap-n-die set and make sure I have M5x0.8mm, and also figure out what size pilot drilled is used before tapping.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.


tiger1964 is online now  
Old 03-21-23, 11:46 AM
  #19  
Hondo6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: SW Florida, USA
Posts: 1,296

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 541 Post(s)
Liked 656 Times in 456 Posts
Originally Posted by tiger1964
. . . . Shipped ASAP. This AM, already in transit from Baltimore MD which is 30 miles away, so I figure I'll have it in a day or two. I check again, and nine hours later it's in Davenport, FL... 900 miles away!
USPS in the Baltimore/DC area is legendarily bad.

When I lived in that area, I once had time-sensitive paperwork mailed using trackable Priority Mail bounce back-and-forth 3 or 4 times between Baltimore and DC before it finally got sent to the correct location - which was in Indiana. As I recall it took nearly 2 weeks for it to be delivered.

And it wasn't a labeling problem. I used one of their Flat Rate envelopes, with all addressing info clearly printed in the correct locations on the places indicated on said envelope.

My guess is that in your case one of the "stellar" USPS employees in Baltimore (who has enough seniority to be essentially guaranteed a job for life) threw the package into the wrong bin, thus putting it on the wrong truck.

Last edited by Hondo6; 03-21-23 at 11:53 AM.
Hondo6 is offline  
Old 03-21-23, 04:04 PM
  #20  
robobike316 
Junior Member
 
robobike316's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Appleton, WI
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked 126 Times in 61 Posts
If you don't feel like drilling and tapping, glue works. I have used both epoxy and hot glue a few times. A bolt is better, but there is minimal force from shifting on that plastic piece.
robobike316 is offline  
Old 03-21-23, 04:15 PM
  #21  
Murray Missile 
Senior Member
 
Murray Missile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 700 Ft. above sea level.
Posts: 3,205

Bikes: More than there were awhile ago.

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 620 Post(s)
Liked 1,205 Times in 575 Posts
Originally Posted by tiger1964
This AM, already in transit from Baltimore MD which is 30 miles away, so I figure I'll have it in a day or two. I check again, and nine hours later it's in Davenport, FL... 900 miles away!
Don't feel bad I ordered a threadless stem adapter form Nevada, I'm in Illinois. After a couple days I checked on it and it was at the USPS Distribution Center in Honolulu, Hawaii! Stranger yet I got it on time! I think by going to Hawaii first it bypassed the USPS "blackhole" at Hazelwood, Missouri.
__________________
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
Murray Missile is offline  
Old 03-21-23, 07:34 PM
  #22  
jamesdak 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,825

Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,

Mentioned: 154 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2300 Post(s)
Liked 4,766 Times in 1,725 Posts
Originally Posted by robobike316
If you don't feel like drilling and tapping, glue works. I have used both epoxy and hot glue a few times. A bolt is better, but there is minimal force from shifting on that plastic piece.
Along the same lines I've used the 3M Auto Trim tape. It's a double sided foam tape that is more than strong enough for this kind of job. I used it to mount sensors/magnets on crank arms and chainstays also and it's held for years.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
jamesdak is online now  
Old 03-21-23, 07:53 PM
  #23  
ralphs
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Northwest of Boston
Posts: 146

Bikes: 2001 Trek 7200, GT Avalanche, and more

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked 134 Times in 65 Posts
Originally Posted by ...Well, it gives me time to check my tap-n-die set and make sure I have M5x0.8mm, and [u
also figure out what size pilot drilled is used before tapping[/u].
Tap drill sizes for metric threads are the major diameter minus the pitch. In your case, 4.2mm (0.1653") ~ #19 drill. 11/64" would also work (0.1719" dia), with slightly looser threads, but shouldn't be an issue since you're just holding the guide in place.
ralphs is offline  
Old 03-22-23, 05:57 AM
  #24  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,415

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Liked 615 Times in 394 Posts
Originally Posted by Hondo6
USPS in the Baltimore/DC area is legendarily bad. When I lived in that area, I once had time-sensitive paperwork mailed using trackable Priority Mail bounce back-and-forth 3 or 4 times between Baltimore and DC before it finally got sent to the correct location - which was in Indiana. As I recall it took nearly 2 weeks for it to be delivered. And it wasn't a labeling problem. I used one of their Flat Rate envelopes, with all addressing info clearly printed in the correct locations on the places indicated on said envelope. My guess is that in your case one of the "stellar" USPS employees in Baltimore (who has enough seniority to be essentially guaranteed a job for life) threw the package into the wrong bin, thus putting it on the wrong truck.
Yup, this is a USPS shipment. And, yup, we've had crazy package handling before. Anyway, after 5 hours in FL, it left Davenport, so I guess the part went on Spring Break ? But nothing in the 19 hours since, and nothing I can do about it. Plus, the first one I ordered, after 11 days of nothing, now shows "left a carrier facility" so, someday, I might have two of these. No matter. Regardless, beyond the woes of actually getting a guide...

Originally Posted by ralphs
Tap drill sizes for metric threads are the major diameter minus the pitch. In your case, 4.2mm (0.1653") ~ #19 drill. 11/64" would also work (0.1719" dia), with slightly looser threads, but shouldn't be an issue since you're just holding the guide in place.
... after posting I did a search and 4.2mm seems to be correct and my drill index does not have that, of course. So, back to Amazon (ZERO chance of Home Depot or Lowe's having it in stock, the locations near here would surprise me if they had a hammer in stock) so that's on the way. Perhaps a pilot-pilot hole in 1/8" first, then bore it out (I have plenty of 1/8" in case I break one, but only one 4.2mm coming). Hopefully I will soon be able to post a photo of the installed guide!
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.


tiger1964 is online now  
Old 03-22-23, 06:25 AM
  #25  
clubman 
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,831

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2287 Post(s)
Liked 2,033 Times in 1,246 Posts
I don't mean to be a McGyvoring heathen but a drop of contact cement would hold that in place for eternity.
clubman is offline  
Likes For clubman:

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.