RobertJason75

I just bought one of these ( https://store.bicycleczar.com/57cm-S...p/11170084.htm ) a 2011 Scattante for $130. I know it's not a popular brand and it's a decade old, but it just felt "better" than what I could afford from a store bike new. Still, I want to invest a bit ($100-$200) more to make it feel smooth. My instinct says new shifters and new cables would be the most noticible, but I'm curious what more experienced people will say. It has a good frame and wheels. The Shimano 105 rear derailer seems good enough.

It was a bit of an impulse buy, but the frame just felt "right" and sizing is so important. Also it has a carbon fork and the 105 derailer, so I thought it's at least worth what I paid. I'm trying to get back on the road after my nicer bike was stolen. I can't afford to replace it just yet so this is a good enough for now.

What are your "go to" upgrades that you would almost always do for a decade old bike? Maybe just a LBS tune-up and don't fix it if it ain't broke approach?

genejockey 

Tires, cables, possibly cable housing, bar tape. No need to replace working STIs. Check the brake pads.

Reflector Guy

+2 on the bar tape. You just know the old tape has someone else's DNA soaked into it!

Maelochs

@genejockey nailed it. Add "chain" to that list if needed ..... Tires if the tires are original or more than a few years old (dry-rotted sidewall cracks can tear and leave you with bad blowouts) and absolutely cables and housings. Huge improvement over gritty, rusty cables.

Is that 9-speed 105? Should last a long time .... maybe shoot some WD-40 into the brifter bodies to clear out any old gunk, grimy stale pasty lube, etc. Wear on the drivetrain looks light, based on the photos ... but I am no expert. And of course, assuming the photos are the actual bike you bought.

According to the always-correct Interwebz, "Scattante is made in the same factory as Fuji, Felt, Scott and the BD bikes." As I understand it, the brand was Performance Bike's house brand---they had frames made to some generic (not in a pejorative sense) spec and hung on whatever parts they could buy in bulk at good prices (similarly they often used to sell "Performance exclusive" versions of Fujis and such---again, when they could buy a certain bunch of parts for cheap, I think.)

If your bike comes with an Easton stem and bar---well, they didn't cheap out much there, I'd say. FSA chainring works fine for me on my Fuji, and 105 is 105.

For $130 i would call it a major score.

freeranger

Depends, of course, on how much usage it saw and how well it was maintained.. I tried to help a friend sell his 2002 Alp d'Huez. He is the second owner, but hardly used it after he bought it. If my wife didn't like her road bike so much I'd have bought it (small frame). The only thing I'd have replaced was tires. He put new brake pads on to sell it. So the only thing not like new is tires. So, like so many things--it depends. If I was to sell either of my bikes ('06 and '98) nothing would need replaced. Some bikes are rough, some are diamonds in the rough.

himespau 

If that is the exact bike right there, well, the bar tape looks to be in decent shape, the tires look ok (from a distance, may need more checking up close, also they're Gatorskins which while flat resistant some people don't like the ride of), cables look ok via the pictures. I personally would just throw it on the stand and make sure there aren't any stiff links on the chain, check the brake pads, and then hop on and ride it for a while (first 10-ish miles would be laps in my subdivision so I'm close to home if something is in desperate need of repair) to see if there was anything that was calling out for a fix.

The only thing I'd change right away would be the saddle, but that's because I know what my butt does (and doesn't) like.

Also, those pedals require clipless shoes. Do you have those? If not, might need to change out the pedals.

Zaskar

Wait... 10 years is old? I agree with himespau. I'd clean it, dial it in and ride it. Okay, I would inspect the tires for any signs of dry rot and I'd swap out the tubes. But other than that, just ride it and let it tell you what it needs.

Iride01 

I wouldn't upgrade anything until you know why you need to upgrade it.

Otherwise, just keep it or get it all in working condition. And of course check the chain for wear and replace it if needed. Tires too are just consumable parts and you can replace them at your whim for better models or sizes to suit you. Or just wait till you wear those out.

If you do get upgrade-itis, the double check the frame and fork weight. It was a real downer for me recently when I realized the the frameset I had was heavy for a bike of today. Only the very best and expensive components would have gotten the finished bike to a somewhat decent for today road bike weight.

aliasfox

If the drivetrain works, don't touch it aside from cables. Old cassette and chainrings have worn at the same rate as the old chain, so while it might not be the fastest shifter on the block, it'll work just fine. If you put a new chain on the bike, the wear on the chain won't match up with the wear on the other gears, and you'll get skipping. Basically, if the chain hasn't been changed in 2-3k miles, it might just be better to let it stay and change out the cassette and rings at the same time.

Otherwise, I agree with genejockey. Cables, housing, and at the very least, check the soft items - bar tape, tires/tube, brake pads. If you're feeling spendy, have a shop check the bearings (wheel, headset) to make sure that they aren't dry and are properly adjusted - I've had wheel bearings come loose over time, and even a headset (though that was possibly my own fault).

Bob Ross

All y'all are way more frugal than I am!
If I bought a used bike and didn't know the previous owner and how he/she treated it, I'd replace the chain, cassette, brake pads, cables, cable housings, tires, tubes, bar tape, and bottom bracket bearings just on principle. Possibly also the chainrings, though if it's only 10 years old they could be salvagable.
I'd also lube the schidt out of every single pivot point and grease all threads, the seatpost, the quick release skewers and dropouts, and the stem/steerer interface.

[edit: I'd probably also change the saddle...and not just because some stranger's netherbits have been squirming all over that.]

RobertJason75

Thanks for the advice. It's not that 'exact' bike (same year, color, components). I wish it was that clean (probably would've cost more if it were). I'll post pics soon. I think I'll change the cables, housing, brake pads, and grip tape and call it a good unless something shows up as I ride it. It will also get a good clean and lube. Not sure about the tires, but I think I'll get good advice when I post pics.

genejockey 

Get a chain checker if you don't have one and see whether the chain needs replacing. If it's still good at 0.5, you're probably okay to keep it, but if it's beyond 0.75, you may need to also replace the cassette.

A lot of this is based entirely on how much use the bike got. Some bikes sit in garages untouched for years, some get thrashed on a daily basis. Things like chain wear, or brake pad wear will tell you how much use the bike got.

RobertJason75

Thanks genejockey, I ordered a chain checker. It's a project. I realize, but should be fun. Here are photos. I'll look good soon enough. Everything works on it, but yeah, it probably needs most of what's recommended above. It wasn't a sit in a garage bike.

Maelochs

Looks like a "Done been crashed" bike, but still good for $130.

I'd lube it and ride it and see what it really needed. Tires and brakes look to have a little life. The rest doesn't look bad. If everything works, that is ......

Zaskar

Hard parts - chain, cassette, cables, etc. - are effectively inert. If they weren't worn a decade ago, they're not worn today. Tires, tubes, maybe tape, will age with time. But really, a decade sitting inside is nothing.

This bike has been hanging on the wall for 25 years - never ridden; not once. Everything - including the soft parts - looks and feels brand new.

aliasfox

I don't think I see anything in here that makes me think the bike's been crashed - the new rear wheel, maybe? There's some paint wear on the fork, which could just as easily have come from locking it to a bike rack.

The cogs on the cassette, as far as I can see, actually look pretty decent - it's possible that the previous owner changed chains as part routine maintenance. None of the teeth in the picture have worn down to points, at the very least. Brake pads look worn, but they're not dead - though you might want to check if they're glazed (slightly shiny). If they are, a little bit of sanding can take away the hard surface. Tires look ok for now - if you're on a budget and not looking for the ultimate in performance, they should do fine.

Definitely do the cables when you re-do the bar tape. Personally, I hate re-doing my own bar tape, and it's something you'll have to do to get to the cables and housing - so might as well take care of all of that at once and be good for the next few thousand miles.

It looks like this bike was a bit big for whomever rode it last - the slammed seatpost and short stem being the giveaways. If the frame fits you properly, you'll likely want to budget a few bucks for a longer stem, perhaps with a bit less rise.

RobertJason75

Chain is at 0.75% (got the tool in today). I don't believe the rear cassette is too worn (possibly was replaced when the wheel was). Here's what I'm ordering today:

* Cables
* Cable housing
* Grip Tape
* Chain
* Brake Pads
* Grease & Lube

I already have a spare stem and better seat I can put on it. AlisaFox, you are correct. The orginal owner was 5'9" tall on a 56cm frame. I'm 5'10-1/2 so it fits me better.

Thanks for the help and advice! This is probably about as far as I should go trying to polish a cheap bike. Still, it feels better than a $400-500 Walmart Bike. THANKS AGAIN EVEYRONE!

genejockey 

Be prepared to replace the cassette, based on how well, and how silently, the new chain works in it.

Maelochs

I am not sure why such a positive and productive thread is allowed on Bike Forums.




Good score, though.

genejockey 

It's early yet.

veganbikes

The reason for replacing bar tape is less about looks or just someone's DNA being in it or being dirty but about safety. Sweat can be somewhat corrosive and over time of it soaking in to bar tape and sitting there on top of the bars which can cause actual damage to the bars. Yes bar tape is gross and new tape will look a treat but really I would rather see what is going on underneath it.

In terms of other replacements usually normal stuff, cables, housing, rubber parts if worn out or hardened, chain and cassette (if worn out). What I probably would do most importantly is a good full overhaul and make sure everything is pulled and regressed and bearings are replaced as needed and of course everything is cleaned as well.

Symox

Assuming you are handy…
new “pro” Jagwire cables for brake and shifters $60
new bar tape (I like profile designs) $20
Koolstop brake pads $20

zandoval 

Yep!!! It's a major score... But don't forget the Streamers!

Jax Rhapsody

I'd change that bar tape, not just because it's grody, but you don't know what the bars look like under it. They could be corroded and brittle- boy would that be a fun first ride. If they're fine, or need replaced, depending on what material the new tape is made of; I'd wrap the bars in electrical tape to protect them, since sweat won't effect the tape, being vinyl.

sean.hwy

from those pictures I would change tires/inner tube first. Then chain. tune up. if the new chain with the tune is fine I would leave the cassette and chain ring on the bike.

I don't know how difficult or expensive to replace rim brakes on an old bike but if you could replace the rusted out brakes on that bike for something modern for a cheap price I would. If it's expensive I would just ride as is and save your money for new bike down the road.