Need help/advice about a Peugeot Chorus
#26
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I got a peugot monaco a week ago for $25 because the back tire was completely bent and destroyed . the frame looked completely fine and it was. I went down to the local bicycle co-op and was able to get a set of used 700c rims, tires and tubes for $90. I have been using it as a commuter for now. I got larger width tires because the roads around here are crap.
those two machines are opposite ends of the bike spectrum .
I do notice a fairly large difference in the frame sizes ?
HAve you ridden the 753 ?
#27
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Looks like the monaco is 54 cm and the peugeot is 58. I'm 6 foot. The monaco is the one that is actually ridable and I've been fine on that. I got on the chorus at the owners house. I fit well but that's when I noticed the front tube was popped so I got off.
#28
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Hiya ,
Looks like an all right deal for $150.00 !
There is probably something missing or loose in the shifter levers . That will make them return when changing .
Maybe pop them off and show us an exploded view of the parts you have ,
Better still locate and use some simplex retrofriction levers .
Work great and appropriate for a Peugeot .
How nasty is that scrape on the downtube by the levers ? Just paint or dent? ( please say no dent)
Go gentle as possible on the stuck stem . Brute force is not your friend ! Especially on 753 tube.
HAve fun with it !
Look forward to updates .
Looks like an all right deal for $150.00 !
There is probably something missing or loose in the shifter levers . That will make them return when changing .
Maybe pop them off and show us an exploded view of the parts you have ,
Better still locate and use some simplex retrofriction levers .
Work great and appropriate for a Peugeot .
How nasty is that scrape on the downtube by the levers ? Just paint or dent? ( please say no dent)
Go gentle as possible on the stuck stem . Brute force is not your friend ! Especially on 753 tube.
HAve fun with it !
Look forward to updates .
Seems that the shifters were just loose. Tightened them up and now they're working.
#29
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This isn't an issue. Reynolds 753 steering columns are no thinner than any other steering column, as the outer diameter is standarized to accommodate the headset threading and the inner dimeter is standardized to accommodate the stem quill. Also, Reynolds 753 fork baldes use the same gauge material as Reynolda 531, so there aren't any special precautions just because its 753. .
However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?
#31
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This isn't an issue. Reynolds 753 steering columns are no thinner than any other steering column, as the outer diameter is standarized to accommodate the headset threading and the inner dimeter is standardized to accommodate the stem quill. Also, Reynolds 753 fork baldes use the same gauge material as Reynolda 531, so there aren't any special precautions just because its 753. .
However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?
However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?
HI T-Mar ,
Yep I know what you are saying . I just had a mental image of the frame being swung on while stem /fork clamped up .
I saw a frame not that long ago that was knackered by exactly that ( vitus980 not 753 )
My comment was more about getting the OP to go gently at it .
cheers
#32
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One more thought, I’ve read that you can not spread the rear axle on 753 frame sets. Very nice bike. Just my thoughts.
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You'd be surprised how not easy it is to cold set the rear triangle of a frameset, even if it's not made with 753, heat treated tubing. Chainstays and seatstays might look wimpy with their small diameters, but they are quite stiff even if made with less expensive carbon steel tubing like Peugeot's Carbolite 103.
#34
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However, it sounds like the OP is relatively inexperienced with bicycle servicing, so I wonder if he didn't realize that he needed to tap the head of the expnder bolt with a hammer to drive the expander cone/wedge out of the bottom of the quill, after he loosened the expander bolt by a few turns?
Last edited by DaCox; 10-01-22 at 08:18 PM. Reason: added photos
#35
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Darn. The expander bolt disintegrated. Do you have a picture of the rest of the bolt?
You might also try Kroil.
Problem is the Aluminum Oxide deposits are not rust...
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#36
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You'd be surprised how not easy it is to cold set the rear triangle of a frameset, even if it's not made with 753, heat treated tubing. Chainstays and seatstays might look wimpy with their small diameters, but they are quite stiff even if made with less expensive carbon steel tubing like Peugeot's Carbolite 103.
From someone asking the same question elsewhere:
"I contacted Bob Jackson's & Brian Rourke's this morning; they both told me that 753R cannot be cold set. Bob Jackson's said that some 753 frames were built with 531 stays and could be cold set, but if a frame is made entirely from 753 it cannot be coldset. Both also said that it would be wrong to try to force-fit a 130mm rear wheel to fit, since the frame would be in a 'state of tension' and would be more likely to fail."
#37
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Bummer the stem is stuck. Maybe the headset top nut can be loosened, and the then the bearings could be repacked, and ride with the stem frozen as is. In the bike mechanics forum, the stem was cut off, and the fork removed, then put into a container of lye, which ate all the aluminum away from the steel. Then all you need is a new stem with same measurements (22.2, or old French 22.0), and Bob’s your uncle! Good luck.
#38
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Nice purchase !!!
You will need a new chain as well.
Chain rings look in nice shape!!
But you can carefully see small gaps as the chain sits on the chain rings.
You can buy a chain checker ( under $10.00) to make sure.
Congrats and take your time. I know you are excited , as I would/am be, but be patient.
Spray some rust remover where the stem is and let it sit for a day.
Then, like others have said, pound the bolt with a hammer. Start with " soft" blows and work your way up in small increments.
I have had stuck stems and this has always worked. I have not had a 753 frame to do this, so do not know if this would be too much for it.
If it was my bike, and I am OCD, I would attempt this.
Good Luck !!
You will need a new chain as well.
Chain rings look in nice shape!!
But you can carefully see small gaps as the chain sits on the chain rings.
You can buy a chain checker ( under $10.00) to make sure.
Congrats and take your time. I know you are excited , as I would/am be, but be patient.
Spray some rust remover where the stem is and let it sit for a day.
Then, like others have said, pound the bolt with a hammer. Start with " soft" blows and work your way up in small increments.
I have had stuck stems and this has always worked. I have not had a 753 frame to do this, so do not know if this would be too much for it.
If it was my bike, and I am OCD, I would attempt this.
Good Luck !!
#39
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#40
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Got it. It honestly doesn’t look that rusted or corroded. I don’t know why it was such a pain in the ass to remove. Took 2.5 hr to get it out. I let it soak in ammonia for 2 days but when I came back the ammonia seemed to have leaked out. Tried turning it but nothing. Then I just started applying lubricant and pounding away and slowly it came out.
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#41
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Got it. It honestly doesn’t look that rusted or corroded. I don’t know why it was such a pain in the ass to remove. Took 2.5 hr to get it out. I let it soak in ammonia for 2 days but when I came back the ammonia seemed to have leaked out. Tried turning it but nothing. Then I just started applying lubricant and pounding away and slowly it came out.
Thanks for the update
#42
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Any suggestions on cleaning the head tube and fork? Head tube is super rusted. Edit: actually its not even that rusted. Why the hell was the stem so hard to remove?
Last edited by DaCox; 10-10-22 at 06:45 PM. Reason: added photos
#43
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Not so much rust, just the aluminum bonding to metal, grease those stems and seat posts.
#45
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This might not be popular for a vintage bike thread but any opinion on a newer group set I should/could get for this frame? Shimano or sram? I’ve been looking into them and dang are they expensive. Would there be any compatibility problems?
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1. The 126mm rear spacing- which means you will have to run a Shimano hub with a 7 speed freehub body. Or alternatively a freewheel hub with a 7 speed freewheel.
2. The nutted brakes. Modern groupsets all use recessed bolts. Luckily you can get Tektro dual pivot brakes with nutted mounting.
3. if this bike has a French bottom bracket you would have to run a sq taper BB . In other words you won’t be able to use the latest external bearing hollow tech type crankset. No big loss.
#49
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I'm going to have to wait till i get off work in about 3 hr. don't know what time zone you're in but that will be
5pm for me. Here's a picture on my phone i had of the bike tire.
5pm for me. Here's a picture on my phone i had of the bike tire.
Last edited by DaCox; 10-14-22 at 06:24 PM.
#50
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Yeah its 126 mm. would a shimano claris r2000 set work? Not full group set probably just rear derailleur and shifters and maybe switch to a 8 speed cassette. Are moderen 8 speed cassette wheels 130mm or 126 mm. Or can i find a wheel with a 8 speed cassette at 126 mm.