Schwinn Voyager Framset--Decent Rando Build Platform?
#1
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Schwinn Voyager Framset--Decent Rando Build Platform?
Hello--long time no post. I'm looking for a project bike...one I can build into a light touring/rando machine...and saw this for sale. I'm wondering your thoughts on using this as a starting point. It's listed as a Schwinn Voyager, but there are no decals. As far as I can tell, it only came in chrome in '80 and '81...does that sound right?
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in case you will be doing any searches on this model, whether here at the forum or elsewhere, be aware that Schwinn employed the french spelling of Voyageur.
https://www.schwinnbikes.com/products/voyageur
in case you will be doing any searches on this model, whether here at the forum or elsewhere, be aware that Schwinn employed the french spelling of Voyageur.
https://www.schwinnbikes.com/products/voyageur
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Whoa, such chrome!
You'd hate to strip any of that beautiful chrome off for gugificazione, so for a traditional randonneur build you're probably going to have to use bolt-on brakes like Paul Racers or Mafac Raids (I think Tektro makes an extra long reach dual pivot sidepull too) to clear an appreciably large (any 650b or more than 700x32) tire and fender. On the other hand, you can play around with wheel sizes as your tastes evolve, without a lot of modifications.
Worth checking out the width between the stays and fork blades for wide tires if you can before you buy.
You'd hate to strip any of that beautiful chrome off for gugificazione, so for a traditional randonneur build you're probably going to have to use bolt-on brakes like Paul Racers or Mafac Raids (I think Tektro makes an extra long reach dual pivot sidepull too) to clear an appreciably large (any 650b or more than 700x32) tire and fender. On the other hand, you can play around with wheel sizes as your tastes evolve, without a lot of modifications.
Worth checking out the width between the stays and fork blades for wide tires if you can before you buy.
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Here is the link to the thread I mentioned before. https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-voyageur.html
I think that could be a great bike but I suspect the line in the add about there being no difference between this and a Paramount other than the lugs is wrong. I doubt this was made with Reynolds 531. I would not let that stop me from buying it, though.
I think that could be a great bike but I suspect the line in the add about there being no difference between this and a Paramount other than the lugs is wrong. I doubt this was made with Reynolds 531. I would not let that stop me from buying it, though.
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I think you can find a better platform. The frame will be heavy and less forgiving than a comparable frame made of 531 or Columbus tubing.
It has no braze ons for racks or water bottles.
If memory serves me right you will have difficulty getting a 32mm tire and a fender to fit.
The stem is an odd, proprietary Schwinn size .883 vs. 22.2 standard for quill stems.
The rear is spaced for 5/6/7 speed vs 8/9/10 speed and will have to be cold set to take a more modern 130mm wheel.
This is not the same as the later Voyageur model made in the late 1980's as a touring bike. This was a "Sport Touring" bike intended for recreational riders.
The fork and the stays are made from Hi-Ten Steel (heavy/not butted)
Not "Close to a Paramount". Paramounts were made in the USA, by hand by a skilled group of folks in Chicago.
This was a mas produced frame made by Panasonic or Giant in Japan.
That said you can make it work if you want to invest the time and money.
Schwinn catalogs, 1981 - 1990 (8 of 456)
It has no braze ons for racks or water bottles.
If memory serves me right you will have difficulty getting a 32mm tire and a fender to fit.
The stem is an odd, proprietary Schwinn size .883 vs. 22.2 standard for quill stems.
The rear is spaced for 5/6/7 speed vs 8/9/10 speed and will have to be cold set to take a more modern 130mm wheel.
This is not the same as the later Voyageur model made in the late 1980's as a touring bike. This was a "Sport Touring" bike intended for recreational riders.
The fork and the stays are made from Hi-Ten Steel (heavy/not butted)
Not "Close to a Paramount". Paramounts were made in the USA, by hand by a skilled group of folks in Chicago.
This was a mas produced frame made by Panasonic or Giant in Japan.
That said you can make it work if you want to invest the time and money.
Schwinn catalogs, 1981 - 1990 (8 of 456)
Last edited by fender1; 09-29-20 at 07:04 PM.
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Eh, while sport tourers are probably a better platform for a rando bike than full on tourers, I don’t think this one is a good candidate. Not enough clearance and not enough braze ons and eyelets.
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Whoa, such chrome!
You'd hate to strip any of that beautiful chrome off for gugificazione, so for a traditional randonneur build you're probably going to have to use bolt-on brakes like Paul Racers or Mafac Raids (I think Tektro makes an extra long reach dual pivot sidepull too) to clear an appreciably large (any 650b or more than 700x32) tire and fender. On the other hand, you can play around with wheel sizes as your tastes evolve, without a lot of modifications.
Worth checking out the width between the stays and fork blades for wide tires if you can before you buy.
You'd hate to strip any of that beautiful chrome off for gugificazione, so for a traditional randonneur build you're probably going to have to use bolt-on brakes like Paul Racers or Mafac Raids (I think Tektro makes an extra long reach dual pivot sidepull too) to clear an appreciably large (any 650b or more than 700x32) tire and fender. On the other hand, you can play around with wheel sizes as your tastes evolve, without a lot of modifications.
Worth checking out the width between the stays and fork blades for wide tires if you can before you buy.
Yeah, wouldn't touch that all chrome frame with a 10 foot brazing rod. That doesn't make it a bad frame, it's just not what I'd consider classic rando material.
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#11
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With a set of bright new UV laminate decals from Velocals that would look terrific, lots of great color schemes you can easily do with an all chrome frame!
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It's a very pretty frame
I have a 1977 Super Le Tour 12.2 in full chrome, which if I remember correctly is the same frame as this one. My fork looks different, but here's what I can tell you about mine:
Clearance for 700c x 32mm tires without fenders, easy. I don't know about 35mm, the issue is the chainstay clearance in the rear.
If you want to run fenders, 28mm tires are the most you'll be able to go comfortably.
Fairly steep angles, I believe 74° for seat tube and head tube.
Relatively short top tube, I have the same size as this and the TT is 57cm. As said earlier, this will take a .833 quill stem. Long reach .833 stems are not common, so keep that in mind if you don't want to use the quill adapter and think you'll need a stem longer than 80-90mm.
Super fun to ride
If it's something you can afford and want to pick up, definitely do it. Full chrome bikes are sweet, I love mine. Mine likes it when I get out of the saddle and put some power down. With a bit less aggressive fit I'd have no qualms taking it on a big long ride, but right now I've got it set up in a way that I start to get a bit uncomfortable after 4-5 hours.
I have a 1977 Super Le Tour 12.2 in full chrome, which if I remember correctly is the same frame as this one. My fork looks different, but here's what I can tell you about mine:
Clearance for 700c x 32mm tires without fenders, easy. I don't know about 35mm, the issue is the chainstay clearance in the rear.
If you want to run fenders, 28mm tires are the most you'll be able to go comfortably.
Fairly steep angles, I believe 74° for seat tube and head tube.
Relatively short top tube, I have the same size as this and the TT is 57cm. As said earlier, this will take a .833 quill stem. Long reach .833 stems are not common, so keep that in mind if you don't want to use the quill adapter and think you'll need a stem longer than 80-90mm.
Super fun to ride
If it's something you can afford and want to pick up, definitely do it. Full chrome bikes are sweet, I love mine. Mine likes it when I get out of the saddle and put some power down. With a bit less aggressive fit I'd have no qualms taking it on a big long ride, but right now I've got it set up in a way that I start to get a bit uncomfortable after 4-5 hours.
Last edited by abshipp; 09-30-20 at 06:30 AM.
#13
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As always, you're all a wealth of good, diverse and reliable information--I'll keep an eye on this frame and likely keep looking for the rando frame of my dreams. Should any of you be in the San Diego area and see something (or have a frame or bike to sell), I'd appreciate a head's up!
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As always, you're all a wealth of good, diverse and reliable information--I'll keep an eye on this frame and likely keep looking for the rando frame of my dreams. Should any of you be in the San Diego area and see something (or have a frame or bike to sell), I'd appreciate a head's up!
Whenever I ride this bike near bike-knowledgeable people, they say, "Nice randonneur build" even though that wasn't my exact intention.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#15
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That's good advice--I'll poke around! And she's a stunner--what a beauty...congrats!
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.. describe a 'typical' randonneuring bike as being somewhere between a dedicated road-racing bike and a touring bike.[8] Such bicycles usually have lightweight steel frames, drop handlebars, relaxed (i.e. comfortable) frame geometry, medium-width tyres, triple chainsets, moderately low gearing, and the capacity to carry lightweight luggage. Mudguards and lighting systems are also common, and may be required for some events.
My 100 km ride was very hilly and lower gears would have been welcome lol
Last edited by ryansu; 09-30-20 at 02:31 PM.