Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
Reload this Page >

105 to GRX FD braze-on problem

Notices
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like : "Unbound Gravel". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

105 to GRX FD braze-on problem

Old 12-25-21, 01:36 PM
  #1  
Mhammy84
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 2

Bikes: YT capra 29er, specialized tarmac sl6, partially built norco search

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
105 to GRX FD braze-on problem

I was given a 2018 Norco Search C 105 frame and wheelset by a friend. He dented the carbon frame and Norco warrantied the bike. The let him keep the old frame and wheelset.

I had the small dent in the carbon frame repaired and am rebuilding the bike with a GRX groupo. It was originally built with 105.

Everything seemed to be going fine until I installed the front derailleur. I guess because the chainrings on 105 groupo are larger, the front derailleur braze-on is way too high for the grx chainrings. The gap is about 15mm.

I bought a wickwerks adaptor for the braze-on to try and lower the FD, but unfortunately that wont work either (it puts the FD too low).

The crank is GRX 600 2x10. Everything else is GRX 400 2x10. Not my first choice but finding components has been difficult…

I’m trying to figure out where to go from here. I can think of a few options. Any feedback / suggestions most welcome.

1) Just ride the bike with a FD that is too high and deal with the chain falling off sometimes.

2) Convert the bike to a 1x. I suspect I would have to at least buy a new crankset. I think I could keep the grx 400 2x10 rear derailleur. The gearing would be a little lame, but I could suck it up. If I need to I could buy a new 11 speed GRX RD, cassette and chain. I guess I would also have to buy at least one new shifter if I did that.

3) Put a bigger outside chainring on the bike to close the gap between the FD and the big chainring. Maybe the FD would not like a bigger gap between the two chainrings, I’m not sure.

3.5) Could I just replace the crankset with 105 and keep the grx FD?

4) Remove the braze-on and try to get a band mount for the FD that would work (although the seat tube shape is pretty irregular).

5) Ask the carbon repair shop to try and lower the braze-on (I emailed the dude, and he was skeptical whether there would be enough room to do this, with the existing holes in the frame)

6) Any other ideas?

Cheers (merry Christmas!)
Mhammy84 is offline  
Old 12-25-21, 04:06 PM
  #2  
shelbyfv
Expired Member
 
shelbyfv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,491
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3646 Post(s)
Liked 5,377 Times in 2,729 Posts
I would go with #1, especially since you don't know that the chain will actually misbehave.
shelbyfv is offline  
Old 12-25-21, 04:49 PM
  #3  
mstateglfr 
Sunshine
 
mstateglfr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,601

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo

Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10943 Post(s)
Liked 7,469 Times in 4,179 Posts
Try it in the stand with a higher FD than is recommended.
...or maybe get a Praxis 48/32 crankset would work since it splits the difference between the crank you want and a 105 compact crank.
mstateglfr is offline  
Old 12-25-21, 11:53 PM
  #4  
dwmckee
Senior Member
 
dwmckee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,468

Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 339 Times in 229 Posts
How much do you need to lower it? We have seen folks Dremmel out the slot a few millimeters to lower front derailleurs in cases like this.
dwmckee is offline  
Old 12-26-21, 12:58 AM
  #5  
Racing Dan
Senior Member
 
Racing Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,231
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1335 Post(s)
Liked 318 Times in 216 Posts
FSA has another adapter that might work. "FSA super compact adapter" Sugino has one too. "Adjustable FD Mount For OX".

Both appear to be designed for your exact problem.

https://www.dolan-bikes.com/sugino-a...t-for-ox-mtox/
Racing Dan is offline  
Old 12-26-21, 02:15 AM
  #6  
Fentuz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 736

Bikes: Dahon Jetstream p8 (sold), customized Dahon Helios x10, customzed Dahon Smooth Hound x11,customized Dahon Hammerhead 8.0 d7, Planet X Free Ranger (mullet setup 1x11), Planet X Giovanissimi 20 (1x9), Frog 52 (1x9) and Frog 48 1s

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 264 Post(s)
Liked 237 Times in 173 Posts
You could fit bigger rings but you’d need a bigger cassette to shift the range

or, spend a little bit on money on a bracket extender

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223895716954?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1mCXkvMr5SeulG2hfJwKJXg28&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkri d=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=223895716954&targetid=1394639519947&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=1006636&poi=&campaig nid=15278604175&mkgroupid=135429446288&rlsatarget=pla-1394639519947&abcId=9300698&merchantid=113726496&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Lr1dT5cJB-AOSerwOkZWANJwZ7&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_Sh94GB9QIVi9d3Ch1RdgCxEAQYCyABEgK_XfD_BwE]super compact adaptor
Fentuz is online now  
Old 12-26-21, 11:00 AM
  #7  
jonathanf2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 916
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 445 Post(s)
Liked 1,035 Times in 439 Posts
I would definitely look into other adapter options first. All the options you've listed seem like a hassle, which could be remedied with just lowering your front derailleur slightly. I'd do some searching on Ebay or AliExpress and see if anything pops up.

I'm also running a GRX 2x10 bike and have a 105 bike. I couldn't really see myself mixing and matching these two groupsets since I ride these bikes differently. Having a front 105 crankset just wouldn't work well for how I ride a gravel bike.
jonathanf2 is offline  
Old 12-26-21, 06:16 PM
  #8  
Mhammy84
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 2

Bikes: YT capra 29er, specialized tarmac sl6, partially built norco search

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks all.

I'm probably just being a bit of a weiner. I measured the gap and its 7mm, which is not ideal, but also maybe not the end of the world.

I'm still waiting on some crimps/end caps to arrive before I set up the shifting, but once I do that, I'll just set up "as is" and report back. If it's no bueno, then I'll take a look at some of those other braze-on extenders. I feel a little burned though with the wickwerks extender putting the fd too low. It wasn't cheap with shipping to me (Canada) etc. If anyone wants one(like new condition!), lmk. My gift to you.
Mhammy84 is offline  
Old 12-27-21, 11:07 AM
  #9  
Badger6
Obsessed with Eddington
 
Badger6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brussels (BE) 🇧🇪
Posts: 1,330

Bikes: '16 Spesh Diverge, '14 Spesh Fatboy, '18 Spesh Epic, '18 Spesh SL6, '21 Spesh SL7, '21 Spesh Diverge...and maybe n+1?

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 532 Post(s)
Liked 621 Times in 368 Posts
Originally Posted by Mhammy84
1) Just ride the bike with a FD that is too high and deal with the chain falling off sometimes.

2) Convert the bike to a 1x. I suspect I would have to at least buy a new crankset. I think I could keep the grx 400 2x10 rear derailleur. The gearing would be a little lame, but I could suck it up. If I need to I could buy a new 11 speed GRX RD, cassette and chain. I guess I would also have to buy at least one new shifter if I did that.

3) Put a bigger outside chainring on the bike to close the gap between the FD and the big chainring. Maybe the FD would not like a bigger gap between the two chainrings, I’m not sure.

3.5) Could I just replace the crankset with 105 and keep the grx FD?

4) Remove the braze-on and try to get a band mount for the FD that would work (although the seat tube shape is pretty irregular).

5) Ask the carbon repair shop to try and lower the braze-on (I emailed the dude, and he was skeptical whether there would be enough room to do this, with the existing holes in the frame)

6) Any other ideas?

Cheers (merry Christmas!)
1) If based on the next post I quoted is true, 7mm will not be a big deal, though not ideal, 3-4 is better, but that is a tiny difference…and with properly aligned FD cage, should be fine, so long as the chain is not dragging off the back of the FD cage on the small ring.

2) I think you’d find that a different (bigger) cassette and RD would be better. But, I am in the “suck it up” camp. I’ve done it…used to run a 1x (42t) on an 11-34. If you’re strong enough, it’s doable so long as you don’t think you need to ride on 15%+ walls continuously…ask me how I know.

3) Shimano notoriously specs their RDs conservatively to ensure that the “max” they spec will work every time, no problem so long as the der is adjusted correctly. Not sure what the tolerance is on a FD, but I’d guess you could sneak an extra 2 teeth in and get it to work (so long as the chain is not dragging off the back of the FD cage on the small ring).

3.5) Yes…but, you need to carefully set up the FD because the chainline for GRX is 2.5mm “wider” to the outside than a road crank. From what I’ve seen the limit screws can be adjusted to get the cage in the right adjustment.

4,5,6) NO!

Originally Posted by Mhammy84
I measured the gap and its 7mm, which is not ideal, but also maybe not the end of the world.
See #1 above. I’m posting this as a “not bike wrench” who hasn’t paid someone to work on a bike for about 15 years (because it saves money for buying bikes and bike things), and I would ride it with a 7mm gap if thats the best I could get it to. YMMV, and you are on all the responsibility for the outcome, but I don’t think you’d be taking a great chance.
Badger6 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.