Sy Reene

Lezyne Grip Drive is a good option. As for valve cores, the simple solution is to buy tubes that don't have removable ones. Michelin AirStop or AirComps are great.

chaadster

Unscrewing valve cores is not a real problem, it’s one of those many things that gets exaggerated in internet chat rooms after some dolt invents the problem, while sitting home bored some Friday night, as a new topic to get their post count up.

kahn

If one is not filling a tube or tire with goo, what is the benefit of a removable core? I guess it just simplifies purchasing/stock if there's generally one one type. My issue is getting valve stems long enough.

sovende

I have several bikes that get ridden on a regular basis. Probably over half (I’d have to count to be sure) are fitted with some sort of frame mounted pump. The others have a CO2 inflator in the under seat bag. (Some of the bikes with frame pumps also have CO2 inflators!) I’ve been lucky -just jinxed that- to only have suffered a few “flat” issues and some of them occurred on the way out of my driveway! The last flat that I had while riding ended up with a call to my wife to come and retrieve me. I had the ability to fix it but just didn’t want to put in the effort. I will say that my early experience with CO2 inflators was less than positive. I believe the newer ones are better but there’s still some level of doubt.
RE: the ecological concerns of the CO2 inflators, I’m thinking that the issue is the spent cylinder going into the landfill. I’m thinking that the ecologic damage of a steel cylinder that eventually rusts away into oblivion is minuscule compared to the “plastic waste” generated daily by human existence! I collect my CO2 cylinders (I also have CO2 powered pellet guns) for recycling with bulk ferrous metals.
RE: my favorite frame pumps, I can only say that most are of the Zefal brand.

Lazyass

The Crank Bros multi-tool I carry has a chain breaker. The chain breaker also works as a valve core remover. I used it once on a ride when I got a puncture in my tubular tire. I carry a small 2oz bottle of Stan's sealant for that purpose and 1oz is enough for a road tire. It seals so well I would go days without the tire losing any pressure at all.

tonymarch

Got two flats on a winter ride years ago. Had one CO2 cartridge and no pump. Got home and bought a pump right away. I use the Lezyne Road Drive; I think the Pocket Drive might be better suited to a mountain bike tire. Road Drive mounts to the side of my water bottle cage. I've used it lots of time, either for my own flat (get the tube started or top off after CO2) or for a friend's.

wle

i have found road bike pumps suck..
the plungers and rubber parts are too small
every time i need one, it doesn;t work
looking at you, topeak master blaster and road blaster

get a mt bike pump, just be sure it can do presta

John Valuk

Lezyne considers the Pocket Drive to be one of their "high pressure" pumps suitable for road bike tires. It's just going to take a relatively large number of strokes because of the very compact size. This road.cc review claims that when they tested it on a 700 x 28 tire, it took 400 strokes to bring it from zero to 70 psi, 500 strokes to bring it from zero to 80 psi.

(I carry something larger, but as I noted earlier in the thread, a pump is my ONLY inflation option, not a backup to CO2.)

Lezyne also have a line of "high volume" pumps for lower-pressure applications.

tonymarch

Nice catch - they make both HP and HV versions of the Pocket Drive!

John Valuk

I'm only aware of these because I was shopping for another pump recently. Wow, so many different models!

Lezyne even make some "XL" versions for fat bike tires!

MrWasabi

Even though those are rated for lower PSI then the standard and Pro Pocket Drive, does mean they more efficient in getting the tire pumped up even though at a lower max PSI?

tonymarch

That would probably depend on the type of tire being inflated. I would check their website for details --> https://ride.lezyne.com/collections/hand-pumps

John Valuk

I think that's the gist of it.

I would guess that it's mostly a matter of the diameter of the piston/cylinder. The larger the cross sectional area, the greater the maximum force required to compress the gas in there to a given pressure. If you know that you don't need very high pressure, then you can use a larger diameter cylinder to move a larger volume of air per stroke.

On a floor pump, the cylinder can be fairly large because the geometry allows you to exert quite a lot of force on the handle (relative to a handheld mini pump).

MrWasabi

Thanks tony, I did earlier but still went with the Pocket Drive Pro (and Standard) based on size, weight and PSI capability. I couldn't figure out what made the HV different outside of it's lower max PSI. I have good floor pumps but just wanted something to go along with my CO2 just in case.

John Valuk

I suspect that for either the "high pressure" or "high volume" pumps, the maximum pressure they note is probably only attained at "busting a gut" levels of exertion (at least for me). For the tires that I run at 70 psi, I'm using one of their high pressure pumps.

Unless you're using this for gigantic fat bike tires, I don't think you went far wrong buying a high pressure model.

John Valuk

So help me, Lezyne actually has three "gravel" models of floor pump!

Considering some of the trends in the tires that many people are running on road bikes, maybe not a bad idea.

Different (in this case, fewer) strokes for different folks.

olddcarnutjag

Keep a frame mounted pump. Flats don’t keep a schedule. The farther you ride the bigger the break. This is why the stewardesses teach you how to manually inflate your vest. I keep an old floor pump in the truck, I have stopped for ladies training .

biketube guy

Unless your rims are more than 10 years old, they probably have the more aggressive hook on them for tubeless. Even if you are using normal clinchers and a tube, a hand pump may not provide the force you'll need to fully seat the bead on a tubeless rim. This means the tire will have a slight wobble in it, which is annoying but rideable. A CO2 will normally seat the bead properly, but I carry a mini pump as extra insurance. Road Bike Action has sung the praises of the Biketube Brand Air Handler many times, and I love it. Inexpensive, with a 2-stage switch (hi volume, hi pressure), 6" long (fits in jersey pockets) and pumps very fast.

SDkid605

I have a small hand pump that attaches on to the water bottle cage on the frame;



Drilled a small hole in the handle, to attach a cheap dollar store cable lock on to it, comes in handy if I happen to forget my lock at home, and keeps it from being stolen.
Nice to always have an air pump on board to use, or a cable lock, albeit a cheap thin one, on hand to use just in case.

Safe Travels !!

(photos are just examples, not my bike)

Cougrrcj

Full-size frame pump for me!

I can get 100psi+ any time and every time - even after five flats on the same ride. Can your CO2 do that???

'nuff said.../thread

Lazyass

Got this today.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZC55VX...roduct_details

Sy Reene

Oh no.. when do the threads start about needing matchy-matchy CO2 cartridges?

PeteHski

Tubeless and mini-pump only for me.

wvridgerider

I miss my old Zefal HPX frame pump. It actually worked and I have never had good luck with mini pumps but keep one in case I run out of CO2. But riding 32c tires helps me not get flats

Lazyass

I ordered the carts at the same time. I like how they have the decals positioned so that they're facing perfectly forward when they're screwed in all the way