Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Bottom bracket removal tool - for chain side?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Bottom bracket removal tool - for chain side?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-28-21, 09:12 AM
  #1  
jhodgski
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bottom bracket removal tool - for chain side?

The bottom bracket has come loose on the chain side of my old Raleigh Team 501 / Cadet.

I can't get the crank off on the non-chain side, so am unable to get my big adjustable spanner in to tighten up the fitting on the chain side.

Does anyone know what size spanner I'd need? And is there a particular, thin one available that bike mechanics would use for this type of job?

Thanks in advance!
jhodgski is offline  
Old 04-28-21, 09:36 AM
  #2  
Eggman84
Full Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 489

Bikes: 2014 Bruce Gordon Rock&Road, 1995 Santana Visa Tandem, 1990 Trek 520, 2012 Surly LHT

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 211 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 43 Times in 35 Posts
I assume your bike is older style cup and cone BB, with the drive side cup unthreaded. Yes, there is a thin spanner wrench that is used. Believe the size is 36mm. If you can get the drive side crank arm off, then you can use Park Tool Model HCW-4. I believe you can find thin open box style wrench, but don't know who makes them. As an alternative you might be better off taking it to your LBS and have them tighten it. Yes you will pay labor but that will be offset by not having to buy a tool,

Karl
Eggman84 is offline  
Old 04-28-21, 11:10 AM
  #3  
jhodgski
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hiya Karl,

Thanks for your reply.

No, I think it's threaded on both sides. The part on the drive side has a couple of flat sides, and I'm pretty sure it is for tightening. Do you think it will still be 36mm?

Cheers,
Jim
jhodgski is offline  
Old 04-28-21, 06:45 PM
  #4  
MudPie
Senior Member
 
MudPie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,191
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 119 Times in 92 Posts
This is a typical 36mm BB wrench for the right (drive) side BB. This one won’t quite work for you since it’s a box design and you’ll need an opened end version. I assume you can find one with an open end.

https://www.parktool.com/product/cra...ttom%20Bracket

Park does offer an open ended 36mm wrench for headsets. I assume this could work if you just need to tighten the BB cup. It may not be strong enough to loosen a stubborn BB Cup.

https://www.parktool.com/product/hea...tegory=Headset

also note, the threads in the right side are often reverse threaded

You might want to measure the width across the flats to ensure 36mm dimension.
MudPie is offline  
Old 04-29-21, 04:45 AM
  #5  
Geepig
Senior Member
 
Geepig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Eastern Poland
Posts: 743

Bikes: Romet Jubilat x 4, Wigry x 1, Turing x 1

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 194 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times in 151 Posts
Originally Posted by jhodgski
Hiya Karl,


No, I think it's threaded on both sides. The part on the drive side has a couple of flat sides, and I'm pretty sure it is for tightening.

Cheers,
Jim
I am not sure what kind of BB you have, but there is a chance that the flats on the chain-side are to just install/remove that side of the BB, while the all adjustment might happen at the other, non-chain end.
Geepig is offline  
Old 04-29-21, 05:37 AM
  #6  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,505

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2743 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times in 2,053 Posts
On a typical cup and cone BB the DS (drive side [chain side]) is a fixed cup installed and left alone. The NDS is the adjustable cup with a lock ring to hold the adjustment.
There are a number of less common C & C BB with adjustable cups on both sides like Phil Wood to allow tuning the chainline.


dedhed is offline  
Old 04-29-21, 06:13 AM
  #7  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,782

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,398 Times in 1,932 Posts
Most drive side bottom bracket cups with two flats are 36mm across the flats. Be aware that the drive side is a left-hand thread, so counter-clockwise to tighten. It's best to remove the crank arms to do this: drive side off to give access to the cup with a closed-end spanner (you may be able to access it with a 36mm open-end headset spanner, but it can be difficult to get the cup tight enough). Non-drive side off so you can adjust the bearings. If you've been riding it loose, it would be prudent to open up the whole thing and inspect for wear or damage, and then re-pack with fresh balls and grease. That would also let you (or, more likely, your bike shop) set the drive side cup good and tight with a professional grade tool, so it doesn't loosen again.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
793a.jpg (20.7 KB, 55 views)
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 04-29-21, 06:11 PM
  #8  
sovende
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Western WI (USA)
Posts: 555

Bikes: TNTL (Too numerous to list)

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 184 Post(s)
Liked 147 Times in 115 Posts
The “fixed” drive-side cup is very likely “left-hand threaded”. Even a cheap-a$$ plastic vernier caliper will be able to determine the wrench size required. Some of the Park BB tools have a cutout allowing tightening the drive-side without removing the drive-side crank arm and chainwheels. If the crank can be removed, a large crescent wrench will do the job. Most often, bearing adjustment is done on the non-drive side and may (probably) require two wrenches.
sovende is offline  
Old 04-30-21, 11:54 AM
  #9  
squirtdad
Senior Member
 
squirtdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Jose (Willow Glen) Ca
Posts: 9,840

Bikes: Kirk Custom JK Special, '84 Team Miyata,(dura ace old school) 80?? SR Semi-Pro 600 Arabesque

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2337 Post(s)
Liked 2,818 Times in 1,539 Posts
this is going to be a total pain and exercise in frustration if you don't remove the cranks first........
__________________
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)



squirtdad is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.