Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Cane Creek Forty Headset Torque Spec

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Cane Creek Forty Headset Torque Spec

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-30-21, 02:12 PM
  #1  
timo888 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
timo888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Near the Twelve Mile Circle in Pennsylvania
Posts: 746

Bikes: Birdy BD-1. Change MTB. Fuji XC. Marin Four Corners

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Cane Creek Forty Headset Torque Spec

Am I reading this Cane Creek document correctly? The top-cap torque should be between 1.1 and 1.7 Nm? And what does the feather icon mean? That rotational movement should be as light as a feather? Or that the hand on the torque wrench should have a feather-light touch?
https://canecreek.com/wp-content/upl...structions.pdf
__________________
novis rebus studentem
timo888 is offline  
Old 07-30-21, 02:45 PM
  #2  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,669
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times in 745 Posts
I never use torque numbers to set headset preload, much more accurate to use your human feel. Tighten the top cap enough so there is a slight drag when turning the fork then back off until it turns smoothly but no play. Tighten the stem clamp bolts and check again. Yeah, that feather symbol seems to suggest light torque but who knows.
Crankycrank is offline  
Old 07-30-21, 03:57 PM
  #3  
Rolla
Guest
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 2,888
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1346 Post(s)
Liked 3,270 Times in 1,439 Posts
I use a torque wrench on the stem bolts, but not the pre-load bolt. My method is to tighten the pre-load bolt until it's snug, and then check for headset looseness by applying the front brake and rocking the bike forward. Then I lift and tilt the front of the bike, and see if the bar/stem/fork turns easily just from gravity. If it passes both of those tests, I'm good to go. I think that's what the feather indicates -- that the steering tube should turn at the touch of a feather.
Rolla is offline  
Old 08-01-21, 08:45 AM
  #4  
timo888 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
timo888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Near the Twelve Mile Circle in Pennsylvania
Posts: 746

Bikes: Birdy BD-1. Change MTB. Fuji XC. Marin Four Corners

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Crankycrank
I never use torque numbers to set headset preload, much more accurate to use your human feel. Tighten the top cap enough so there is a slight drag when turning the fork then back off until it turns smoothly but no play. Tighten the stem clamp bolts and check again. Yeah, that feather symbol seems to suggest light torque but who knows.
My main concern was having to go considerably higher than 1.7Nm to eliminate play.
__________________
novis rebus studentem
timo888 is offline  
Old 08-01-21, 08:48 AM
  #5  
timo888 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
timo888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Near the Twelve Mile Circle in Pennsylvania
Posts: 746

Bikes: Birdy BD-1. Change MTB. Fuji XC. Marin Four Corners

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Rolla
I use a torque wrench on the stem bolts, but not the pre-load bolt. My method is to tighten the pre-load bolt until it's snug, and then check for headset looseness by applying the front brake and rocking the bike forward. Then I lift and tilt the front of the bike, and see if the bar/stem/fork turns easily just from gravity. If it passes both of those tests, I'm good to go. I think that's what the feather indicates -- that the steering tube should turn at the touch of a feather.
There was still some play in the headset at 1.7Nm. Had to go to 3Nm to eliminate it. I was worried that Cane Creek had made the top-cap so thin it could buckle.
__________________
novis rebus studentem
timo888 is offline  
Old 08-01-21, 09:02 AM
  #6  
Crankycrank
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,669
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 836 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times in 745 Posts
Originally Posted by timo888
There was still some play in the headset at 1.7Nm. Had to go to 3Nm to eliminate it. I was worried that Cane Creek had made the top-cap so thin it could buckle.
If you just keep an eye on the top cap while tightening watching that it doesn't start to buckle you'll be fine as you can just loosen the cap bolt after the stem pinch bolts are tight. I've never come across any caps that would buckle with the torque needed to remove play in a headset but that's not to say it's impossible.
Crankycrank is offline  
Likes For Crankycrank:
Old 08-01-21, 06:16 PM
  #7  
shelbyfv
Expired Member
 
shelbyfv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,528
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3664 Post(s)
Liked 5,412 Times in 2,750 Posts
I'd still like to know for sure what that feather means.
shelbyfv is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.