Patina!
#1
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Patina!
I spotted this today. I know it’s not a bike, but it’s interesting how the owner dealt with the repaint/ don’t repaint dilemma. Close inspection showed that some of the paint was left untouched, some taken down to primer, some to bare metal that was allowed to rust. Then it was all smoothed out and given a clear coat.
I wouldn’t do this with a good frame but I am building a grocery store run bike that might sport this finish.
I wouldn’t do this with a good frame but I am building a grocery store run bike that might sport this finish.
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Often strategic or by decades weathering is sealed in a two part clear coat.
it’s a look
it’s a look
#3
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I saw this on Gas Monkey garage many moons ago. I wasn't fond of it then. All that work, just put in the rest of the time. Your 1/2 way there.
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Depends on your aesthetic goal. I love looking at a perfectly restored car, but for a car you actually drive, having a perfect finish is a burden, IMO. Same for bikes. A quality bike paint job can run into 4 figures and the sky is the limit on a car paint job. I'd rather just be able to have everything mechanically in good shape and ride or drive something hard and not worry about rock chips and door dings.
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That would be way better gold plated like those Campy parts.
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#6
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Depends on your aesthetic goal. I love looking at a perfectly restored car, but for a car you actually drive, having a perfect finish is a burden, IMO. Same for bikes. A quality bike paint job can run into 4 figures and the sky is the limit on a car paint job. I'd rather just be able to have everything mechanically in good shape and ride or drive something hard and not worry about rock chips and door dings.
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I have to go with the "too much work for what's achieved" group here. To me, patina has to be natural to be of value. I can respect a vehicle with different color panels or patches of primer or whatever, but if you've taken the time to smooth things out and clear coat it, that's not patina anymore. It's an ugly restoration.
What I really want to know is, did it have a wood bed?
What I really want to know is, did it have a wood bed?
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Agreed, preservation is a big part of it. I am trying to figure out how to get rid of some rust bubbles on my vintage car but also not have the finish look terrible. Might end up doing the grey primer thing until I am ready to paint.
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better gray prime and big motor than perfect paint and no power
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Haha, true! I like that saying, gonna steal it. Although, technically this will be more like "Better a good power to weight ratio and grey primer..." since it's a small European car with a big (for the time) motor, good carb, and strong ignition system.
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I agree, just a weathered look, not faked...dull paint chips, blemishes and all, but in order to deter rust I personally see nothing wrong with a dull clear coat....we do use frame saver and wax/clear on some of our bikes.
Weather dulled and checked lacquer paint....much more patina currently than in this shot!
Best, Ben
Weather dulled and checked lacquer paint....much more patina currently than in this shot!
Best, Ben
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Last edited by xiaoman1; 09-16-21 at 05:54 PM.
#12
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My favorite (of course no picture) was in a VW magazine 15-20yrs ago of a bus that had moss growing all over one side for years. When they cleaned it off, there was all these great rust designs.
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#15
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My old iron has the 'sunburned' look. The clearcoat on the top surfaces has gone away due to the car's previous life in the hot sun of southern Florida.
BUT it still moves OK...
BTW, my more recent purchase from the Tampa area looks much the same on the upper surfaces...
BUT it still moves OK...
BTW, my more recent purchase from the Tampa area looks much the same on the upper surfaces...
#16
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I have to go with the "too much work for what's achieved" group here. To me, patina has to be natural to be of value. I can respect a vehicle with different color panels or patches of primer or whatever, but if you've taken the time to smooth things out and clear coat it, that's not patina anymore. It's an ugly restoration.
What I really want to know is, did it have a wood bed?
What I really want to know is, did it have a wood bed?
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Apparently boiled linseed oil looks good on rusty patina, but maybe this also presents as too shiny to the folks that also hate clear coat over rust. It's temporary and gets a little less shiny over time compared to the picture below. It also helps with preservation sort of like an external framesaver.
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Beautiful old Chevy. Back in the 70's my BIL and I both had similar Chevy trucks, but with less patina and more "old". When they sat outside, unused, for a few weeks, our NW maritime climate easily defeated their primitive 6V ignition system, so time for an extension cord plus 15 minutes running wife's hair dryer directly into the open cap & distributor
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I have to go with the "too much work for what's achieved" group here. To me, patina has to be natural to be of value. I can respect a vehicle with different color panels or patches of primer or whatever, but if you've taken the time to smooth things out and clear coat it, that's not patina anymore. It's an ugly restoration.
What I really want to know is, did it have a wood bed?
What I really want to know is, did it have a wood bed?
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Just the discussion i was looking for.
I was just given an old Huffy cruiser that is 100 percent rust. I want to build it up as a rat rod with new tires and bearings and keep the patina. I am afraid it is a little too crusty to just spray clear over it. Would a light sanding to knock down the rust a bit be the way to go. Then spray it with satin clear?
I was just given an old Huffy cruiser that is 100 percent rust. I want to build it up as a rat rod with new tires and bearings and keep the patina. I am afraid it is a little too crusty to just spray clear over it. Would a light sanding to knock down the rust a bit be the way to go. Then spray it with satin clear?
#22
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Just the discussion i was looking for.
I was just given an old Huffy cruiser that is 100 percent rust. I want to build it up as a rat rod with new tires and bearings and keep the patina. I am afraid it is a little too crusty to just spray clear over it. Would a light sanding to knock down the rust a bit be the way to go. Then spray it with satin clear?
I was just given an old Huffy cruiser that is 100 percent rust. I want to build it up as a rat rod with new tires and bearings and keep the patina. I am afraid it is a little too crusty to just spray clear over it. Would a light sanding to knock down the rust a bit be the way to go. Then spray it with satin clear?
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1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
Pics
1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
Pics
#23
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Just the discussion i was looking for.
I was just given an old Huffy cruiser that is 100 percent rust. I want to build it up as a rat rod with new tires and bearings and keep the patina. I am afraid it is a little too crusty to just spray clear over it. Would a light sanding to knock down the rust a bit be the way to go. Then spray it with satin clear?
I was just given an old Huffy cruiser that is 100 percent rust. I want to build it up as a rat rod with new tires and bearings and keep the patina. I am afraid it is a little too crusty to just spray clear over it. Would a light sanding to knock down the rust a bit be the way to go. Then spray it with satin clear?
#24
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Be very careful with linseed oil!!! Years ago my local bike shop burned down due to the oily rags left after treating a frame with linseed oil.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/f...-it-seriously/
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/f...-it-seriously/
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