Removing Anodizing from Handlebars
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Removing Anodizing from Handlebars
I am in the process of building up my 1985 Mercian and want to use the FSA Wingpro 31.8 bars that I have on my other bikes.
I love these bars as they they have an ovalized section on the top and I find them very comfortable.
I also happen to have an extra pair lying around. But they they have a smooth glossy black anodizing on them and I want them to be silver.
I will probably be using a Ritchey C220 Classic silver stem.
I know that there is the Easy Off oven cleaner route but I don't want to buy a can only to use a small amount.
I did a test using sandpaper starting with 180 grit working up to 800 grit and then micromesh from 2400 to 8000 and think it looks pretty good although there are some tiny scratches.
Since the bars are smooth and round it is not that hard to use sandpaper.
I don't have a bench grinder with a buffer wheel but do have access to one.
There will not be any branding or engraving on the bars but that does not bother me.
Once the aluminum is polished how do you keep it from oxidizing? I have a spray can of clear coat that I have never used.
See pictures below. Thanks for any advise.
I love these bars as they they have an ovalized section on the top and I find them very comfortable.
I also happen to have an extra pair lying around. But they they have a smooth glossy black anodizing on them and I want them to be silver.
I will probably be using a Ritchey C220 Classic silver stem.
I know that there is the Easy Off oven cleaner route but I don't want to buy a can only to use a small amount.
I did a test using sandpaper starting with 180 grit working up to 800 grit and then micromesh from 2400 to 8000 and think it looks pretty good although there are some tiny scratches.
Since the bars are smooth and round it is not that hard to use sandpaper.
I don't have a bench grinder with a buffer wheel but do have access to one.
There will not be any branding or engraving on the bars but that does not bother me.
Once the aluminum is polished how do you keep it from oxidizing? I have a spray can of clear coat that I have never used.
See pictures below. Thanks for any advise.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,146
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3803 Post(s)
Liked 6,639 Times
in
2,602 Posts
@Drillium Dude recommends this product:
https://www.jestcoproducts.com/index...d&productId=37
And I trust his judgment in all things polishing and finishing!
https://www.jestcoproducts.com/index...d&productId=37
And I trust his judgment in all things polishing and finishing!
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
@Drillium Dude recommends this product:
https://www.jestcoproducts.com/index...d&productId=37
And I trust his judgment in all things polishing and finishing!
https://www.jestcoproducts.com/index...d&productId=37
And I trust his judgment in all things polishing and finishing!
Thanks
#4
Pedalin' Erry Day
I would second the recommendation for the Jestco stuff, but since you're not interested in that just get a can of oven cleaner, it's cheap and it works, just not as quickly. And once you've polished bare aluminum it will dull over time and there's not really any good way to avoid that, but you can easily touch up your polished parts with a little simichrome whenever desired to bring the shine right back.
Likes For lasauge:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,213 Times
in
1,103 Posts
Why bother with the sections that are being covered in tape? Just focus on the exposed parts.
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Likes For SJX426:
#7
Half way there
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,955
Bikes: Many, and the list changes frequently
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 985 Post(s)
Liked 879 Times
in
526 Posts
A can of lye-based drain cleaner may be cheaper than the oven stuff. Use a couple of tablespoons per gallon of water and let it soak. You'll need to watch it so you don't go too far - just enough to eat through the anodizing. The bar will then be dark and dirty looking but will become shiny with polishing.
OTOH, If you are happy with the results from just using abrasives, go for it. My experience using sandpaper on hard anodizing is that it wasn't easy. Do you think the bars are painted?
Don't be too concerned with corrosion because won't happen quickly. Just polish every once in a while.
OTOH, If you are happy with the results from just using abrasives, go for it. My experience using sandpaper on hard anodizing is that it wasn't easy. Do you think the bars are painted?
Don't be too concerned with corrosion because won't happen quickly. Just polish every once in a while.
#8
Not lost wanderer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lititz, Pa
Posts: 3,322
Bikes: In USA; 73 Raleigh Super Course dingle speed, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 72 Geoffry Butler, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 74 Gugie Grandier Sportier
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 885 Post(s)
Liked 986 Times
in
519 Posts
Second the drain cleaner. These bars are some Hot Chili Downhill bars and had faded from a nice black to a nasty purple. A few minutes with some drain cleaner took the color off quickly, rinse and repeat until it was all gone. It took lots of water to rinse and it had a real nice frosty look.
Last edited by bwilli88; 11-07-21 at 08:43 AM.