What Bianchi did I buy? Early 80's Super Corsa?
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Geometry from what I think is an 81 catalogue:
Cable guide on my 83 (also with serial number on BB shell):
Cable guide on my 83 (also with serial number on BB shell):
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Thanks @L134. Based on the table and my ability to measure fork rake, I think the Fork is pretty close. I measured 4.3cm and it should be 4.2cm. I'm sure my measurement technique is not accurate enough to know if there is a minor discrepancy (and thus a re-rake would make the replacement match better. But I do think it's accurate enough to say it's not wildly off. I was also able to check some other measurements since my frame is a 58.
Also I appreciate the picture of the cable guides. If I go that direction (vs cleaning up the through tube, its good to know if I have a reasonable match).
Mike
Also I appreciate the picture of the cable guides. If I go that direction (vs cleaning up the through tube, its good to know if I have a reasonable match).
Mike
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Unfortunately I cannot help with frame/fork angles as I'm currently over 1k miles away from the bike, but I'd assume there is something online somewhere which would provide factory specs. Most of what I know about my frame I learned from various contributors to this thread: 1981 Bianchi
Some have suggested that the head lug chrome came and went in the late 70s and early 80s; I do like that mine has that feature as they nicely contrast with the paint, don't they?
Too bad about the kludge, but those holes can be plugged/filled and guides brazed in place. gugie did just that with my Casati.
Here's a shot of one of the brake cable guides he brazed to my Casati - I show this because I have no close-up pics of the ones on the Bianchi which are pretty much identical:
DD
Some have suggested that the head lug chrome came and went in the late 70s and early 80s; I do like that mine has that feature as they nicely contrast with the paint, don't they?
Too bad about the kludge, but those holes can be plugged/filled and guides brazed in place. gugie did just that with my Casati.
Here's a shot of one of the brake cable guides he brazed to my Casati - I show this because I have no close-up pics of the ones on the Bianchi which are pretty much identical:
DD
Mike
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1) I didn't pick up on the internal routing! I can't recall seeing that on any high grade Bianchi prior to the Centennario. Given the repaint, it could be an owner modifcation or possibly some unique foreign market specification. The latter seems to happen a lot with Bianchi and could also be the reason for the variation in chroming. Once you strip the frame, you may be able to tell if it previously used external cable tunnels or had some chrome that was removed or painted over.
2) Bianchi from this era can be seen with a variety of decal styles, even in the catalogues. In such cases, with a high grade model, my prefered references are old race photos. The 1982 team bicycles clearly use the logo with the short lines protruding from the front of the B and the back of the i, but not with the narrow bands around the tubes, as seen in 1981. This appears to be the same as seen on the top models in the 1982 catalogue, though it's hard to tell if they are black (as used in 1981) or the royal blue with the gold shadow, as shown in the catalogue. From the 1982 catalogue...
2) Bianchi from this era can be seen with a variety of decal styles, even in the catalogues. In such cases, with a high grade model, my prefered references are old race photos. The 1982 team bicycles clearly use the logo with the short lines protruding from the front of the B and the back of the i, but not with the narrow bands around the tubes, as seen in 1981. This appears to be the same as seen on the top models in the 1982 catalogue, though it's hard to tell if they are black (as used in 1981) or the royal blue with the gold shadow, as shown in the catalogue. From the 1982 catalogue...
Oddball paint also points respray.
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A couple additional pictures of what I've uncovered.
The through top tube cable routing was just 2 holes drilled in the top tube. I'm taking the frame into a local frame builder to see what is the best next step. I'll either have him plug the holes and put back on the cable guides, or modify the through tube to be done correctly.
I was also able to strip some of the paint and found some areas where the chrome was in great shape.
The through top tube cable routing was just 2 holes drilled in the top tube. I'm taking the frame into a local frame builder to see what is the best next step. I'll either have him plug the holes and put back on the cable guides, or modify the through tube to be done correctly.
I was also able to strip some of the paint and found some areas where the chrome was in great shape.
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Temporary Build
To the advice that is stated in various posts when someone gets a new bike that requires a lot of work. I wanted to build it up a ride it before I sunk too much effort into it. 4 rides and about 90 miles on it so far.
I did a full strip and re-build last weekend. Seat post and stem came out, headset was in great shape. Bottom Bracket was completely shot. Fixed cup was.a nightmare, but 4 days of WD 40 then PB Blaster, and a few choice words it was out.
Cleaned up (not fully, but a de-grease and some scrubbing) of the parts I put back on.
Obtained a Campy BB and shifter cables
From the part bin -
Period correct cock pit
NR RD
Freshly waxed chain
Seat Post and Seat
Campy rear Brake and Modello front
Speedplay pedals
Spare clinchers for my Colnago Super, with a straight block (14-19) - With a 53-44 up front, I do need to change up the freewheel.
And before anybody asks, yes that is a zip-tie for the rear brake cable. I used the Kludge through-tube and it was really bad, so I did a quick kludge of my own. And yes, the yellow bar-tape has to go.
I did a full strip and re-build last weekend. Seat post and stem came out, headset was in great shape. Bottom Bracket was completely shot. Fixed cup was.a nightmare, but 4 days of WD 40 then PB Blaster, and a few choice words it was out.
Cleaned up (not fully, but a de-grease and some scrubbing) of the parts I put back on.
Obtained a Campy BB and shifter cables
From the part bin -
Period correct cock pit
NR RD
Freshly waxed chain
Seat Post and Seat
Campy rear Brake and Modello front
Speedplay pedals
Spare clinchers for my Colnago Super, with a straight block (14-19) - With a 53-44 up front, I do need to change up the freewheel.
And before anybody asks, yes that is a zip-tie for the rear brake cable. I used the Kludge through-tube and it was really bad, so I did a quick kludge of my own. And yes, the yellow bar-tape has to go.
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A little elbow grease
I got out the touch up paint and put in a little elbow grease.... Well maybe a bit more than just that. Still a couple of little things to do in the future, but I'm happy with how it turned out.
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Oooooo!!! That looks great! Looking forward to seeing it in March!!
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Looks good, nice touch up.
Cable guides on the bottom?
Did you just have a spare Super fork laying around?
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Thanks @Narhay and @genejockey.
@merziac - Thanks. Sourcing the fork was my biggest concern. I figured I might need to identify a donor frame with the right fork than make a choice between the two frames and I thought it might take years. By luck, I picked up the fork from @cap'njohnny. He had posted that he built up a Bianchi for the Silicon Valley Bike Exchange, but the fork was beyond repair. So, since I try not to let things like "beyond repair" deter me so I reached out to him, he was able to find it, I picked it up and took it straight to a frame builder, Dale Saso. Dale had just patched the holes and added the brake cable guides (to the lower left side) on the frame and thought there was a good chance he could save it. We were both very pleased on how the fork turned out, the alignment and rake were spot on and the chrome wasn't damaged.
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We have the painful before images and it would be cool to see the process and final build details, images please! Fun.
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@merziac, OK, so maybe I played down the work required to transform this. It was nice to stumble on a grail bike that looked beyond hope and have it come together. I'll do a build thread on it with more pictures.
Build thread would be fabulous.
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All good man, great job, I have two of those complete bikes, they are both in ok shape but really could warrant a similar program like yours being what they are. It would almost be easier if you pretty much have no choice like you. Once you commit and with a "little" help and luck go all in, then there you are, no big picture ongoing hand wringing, waffling, second guessing, whatever. Just a matter of getting after it and making it so, easy peasy.
Build thread would be fabulous.
Build thread would be fabulous.
I'll get the build thread going over the next few days (I hope).
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You are right. The fact that this was a basket case got rid of a lot of debating and gave me a clean slate to just dive in. There was no debate around "how much patina is too much?"; I also figured it wasn't original, so adding the second water bottle cage wasn't going to be blasphemous, etc. I figured everything I did would be a step in the right direction, even if it was a direction others wouldn't choose, it would still be better than what I started with.
I'll get the build thread going over the next few days (I hope).
I'll get the build thread going over the next few days (I hope).
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The term touchup, was used tongue in cheek, it was a full rattle-can respray. I used a custom mixed color (RAL 6027) paint I procured from a company in Austin (I believe) and followed it up with Glamour 2K clear.
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Glad I'm not losing it. I kept thinking there's no way that's just a touch up job, but then wondering if my own mediocre skills are actually just horrendous.
Really nice results.
Really nice results.
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Nah, way more to the story, serious expert framebuilder repair help, copious amounts of luck, time, $$$, mad rattle can painting skilz, energy and effort.
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Awesome job - I really like the setup with the rear brake housing guides being brazed underneath the top tube. Make it your own
DD
DD
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More details on the build
I was going to create a new build thread and then decided just to add to this thread. It eliminated having to go back to the beginning.
The first problem to tackle was the holes in the frame for the kludged together through top-tube brake cable.
I talked to a couple of local frame builders and some local C&V BF guys and decided on Dale Saso to do the work. While he was at it, I also had him put on some new cable guides and a second set of water bottle bosses. Since it's not longer original, I decided to have the cable guides on the NDS to allow for clean routing if I ever go to a brighter set-up. I also think it's a cleaner look.
The first problem to tackle was the holes in the frame for the kludged together through top-tube brake cable.
I talked to a couple of local frame builders and some local C&V BF guys and decided on Dale Saso to do the work. While he was at it, I also had him put on some new cable guides and a second set of water bottle bosses. Since it's not longer original, I decided to have the cable guides on the NDS to allow for clean routing if I ever go to a brighter set-up. I also think it's a cleaner look.