Wheel restoration Old Spokes or New?
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One sometimes hears the opinion that spokes are a consumable and should be replaced just to be safe. This is not automatically true.
spokes that are chrome plated, though, are of a low quality and while they sometimes can be buffed I would always replace them with stainless ones.
spokes that are chrome plated, though, are of a low quality and while they sometimes can be buffed I would always replace them with stainless ones.
Union Berg made chrome plated double butted spokes of widely appreciated quality.
compared to stainless steel they became more expensive and are more vulnerable to neglect.
there may have been cheap chrome plated spokes elsewhere but I did not encounter them on bikes that came in for repair at the bike shops I worked for.
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Just want to add two cents on 27-700c. With cantis, as has been stated before you may end up with the pads pointing downward. It was less problematic for me with wider rims. Sun cr18s with 4 cross db spokes always made nice wheels in my experience. I do like the idea of trying to fix what you already have though too. Excellent project!
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New spokes are E$$pen$ive! If after some soaking, and the nipples turn, back em all off one by one, lube the spoke and maybe brush the threads, lube the eyelet and maybe replace a bunged up nipple.
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Cost conscious buyers may want to consider straight gauge stainless spokes. It's not that expensive and having a wheel built carefully and with pride is more important than having butted spokes.
Last edited by Cycle Tourist; 12-19-21 at 11:28 PM.
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Cheers!
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Post number mentions that stainless steel spokes, butted ones and of good quality, are expensive. That is so true and the spokes on my Rabeneick set me back $151 and change. I almost messed my pants when I got the bill.
I do agree with the mention at lesser spokes are OK to use provided they are installed, patterned, adjusted and stress relieved properly. Too tight or too loose or unevenly tensioned are all things that should be avoided if dependability it the target...
I do agree with the mention at lesser spokes are OK to use provided they are installed, patterned, adjusted and stress relieved properly. Too tight or too loose or unevenly tensioned are all things that should be avoided if dependability it the target...
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#32
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With the cost of spokes now, I would hose them off with WD-40, clean them with steel wool or aluminum scrub pad and brushes, clean the rim up, throw on some new rim strips, check the true and ride them. I wouldn't bother stress relieving the existing spokes or trying to lube the nipples. If they are true, that was how you left it years ago. If the tension was fine then, it should be fine now. Unless these are just so sentimental that you can't live without them, just clean them up and ride them. I'm not putting 70-100 dollars worth of spokes into anything that I'm not inclined to go to the grave with now.
I only have one set of wheels I have sentimentality on. They were the very first pair of wheels I built for my Raleigh Competion. They have mismatched rims, Campy Gran Sport hubs on 126 spacing. They aren't worth a plug nickel in most peoples books... But I built them.
I only have one set of wheels I have sentimentality on. They were the very first pair of wheels I built for my Raleigh Competion. They have mismatched rims, Campy Gran Sport hubs on 126 spacing. They aren't worth a plug nickel in most peoples books... But I built them.
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$151 dollars for one wheelset's worth of spokes?! Where the heck are you guys getting your spokes from? I've been paying $1/pc. for double butted spokes - DT Swiss or Wheelsmith - from Universal.
Now, finding the length you need in stock, that may be the real challenge.
Now, finding the length you need in stock, that may be the real challenge.
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I have a set of Covid tubulars here. I couldn't find the right size spokes at a reasonable price, so I built them with used spokes. Six monts in, the rear broke two spokes on the same ride. So they sit, awaiting the right size spokes. I got close day before yesterday. They said they had them, but whe push came to shove.....
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spokes that are chrome plated, though, are of a low quality and while they sometimes can be buffed I would always replace them with stainless ones.
- The zinc acts as a sacrificial metal to protect the underlying iron/steel and thus acts as a sacrificial anode. In the event the underlying metal becomes exposed, protection can continue as long as there is zinc close enough to be electrically coupled. After all of the zinc in the immediate area is consumed, localized corrosion of the base metal can occur.
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Hey All - I appreciate all the comments on this question.
Just a few things: This is a 27" wheel with 36 spokes on a 3 cross pattern. The length of the spokes is 310 and right now availability (Yes Stainless Double Butted) is not so good like nothing out there. The '81 Univega Specialissima came with Dia-Compe Grand Compe Center Pull (not canitlever) - Beautiful looking gems if I might add. So I might take a trip to the bike shop to see what they have available. Should you have any suggestions for new spokes that would be available I would be all ears. I might need to move onto another area to work on while the search for spokes continues.
Just a few things: This is a 27" wheel with 36 spokes on a 3 cross pattern. The length of the spokes is 310 and right now availability (Yes Stainless Double Butted) is not so good like nothing out there. The '81 Univega Specialissima came with Dia-Compe Grand Compe Center Pull (not canitlever) - Beautiful looking gems if I might add. So I might take a trip to the bike shop to see what they have available. Should you have any suggestions for new spokes that would be available I would be all ears. I might need to move onto another area to work on while the search for spokes continues.
You have a couple of issues that make this wheel difficult to rebuild. The 4 cross pattern and the flat profile rims makes the spokes longer and more difficult to find. A 3 cross pattern and/or a higher profile rim would shorten the spokes. Shorter spokes are far easier to find.
Frankly, I’d just build a new wheel in 3 cross. Preferable one with a freehub and in 700C. I doubt that these wheels are OEM given that 4 cross is rare even in custom builds. If you want to keep with the current hubs, I’d still rebuild them in 3 cross.
And get that lock nut tighten down properly!
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Your problem is less supply chain issues than using a somewhat outdated wheel. 310mm spokes are an uncommon length. DT, for example, only offers that length in limited models. They don’t offer that length in the double butted Revolution line which is the most commonly available double butted spoke. They do offer that length in the Champion line but that is a straight gauge spoke.
You have a couple of issues that make this wheel difficult to rebuild. The 4 cross pattern and the flat profile rims makes the spokes longer and more difficult to find. A 3 cross pattern and/or a higher profile rim would shorten the spokes. Shorter spokes are far easier to find.
Frankly, I’d just build a new wheel in 3 cross. Preferable one with a freehub and in 700C. I doubt that these wheels are OEM given that 4 cross is rare even in custom builds. If you want to keep with the current hubs, I’d still rebuild them in 3 cross.
And get that lock nut tighten down properly!
You have a couple of issues that make this wheel difficult to rebuild. The 4 cross pattern and the flat profile rims makes the spokes longer and more difficult to find. A 3 cross pattern and/or a higher profile rim would shorten the spokes. Shorter spokes are far easier to find.
Frankly, I’d just build a new wheel in 3 cross. Preferable one with a freehub and in 700C. I doubt that these wheels are OEM given that 4 cross is rare even in custom builds. If you want to keep with the current hubs, I’d still rebuild them in 3 cross.
And get that lock nut tighten down properly!
Thank You!
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Actually the length of the spoke length is 306 with a bit more availability from what I have been led to believe. My knowledge of wheel building is actually NIL - so I might be inclined to practice on these wheels with the old spokes/nipples first before I attempt to go with all new spokes.
The nipples turned great without any oil but I still will oil them up prior to disassembly.
Being that these wheels are "Factory" build with the 4 cross pattern my goal is to keep that look with the restoration.
Even if the wheels are OEM 4 cross, going to a 3 cross won’t make any difference and will make finding spokes easier. If you go with stainless spokes, you’ve already changed the “originality” of the wheel set. Basically, no one will notice
The loose lock nut was prior to the hub tear down and removing the bearings..
Co-op tip: If you happen to find yourself working on a coaster hub, work on the drive side. The off-drive side doesn’t really have anything that’s adjustable. Learned that one the hard way.
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
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Ride em. I have put over a thousand miles in the last year on a set of wheels that were so rusty I had to clean them with a wire wheel on a drill-motor. I did clean/lube and adjust the bearings and true them up, and once in the last year a spoke broke while on a ride, but I was able to ride home with it and swap the one spoke out. If riding is essential to you then ride, if you enjoy wrenching more than riding then wrench. I wanted to ride that bike so I just did what I had to do to get me on the road, and spent as little as possible. I don't care how things look, I just want to ride.
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The penetrating oil I have been using the last ten years is called "Kroil", you know it is good because it smells dangerous, like Liquid Wrench used to smell forty years ago before they changed it's formula. You can order little tin cans of Kroil directly from the manufacturer which have a little spout and screw-on cap, and it goes a long way so the cans last for years.
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I've just replaced the spokes (and hubs) on a set of Mavic Monthlery Route - old spokes were zinc plated and a bit tatty.
I've found a place in the UK that cuts to custom length and delivers in a couple of days.
36 x DT Swiss Champion 14g for £25.68
They do the DT Swiss Champion 14g any length from 151 to 314 mm
https://www.spokesfromryan.com/
I've found a place in the UK that cuts to custom length and delivers in a couple of days.
36 x DT Swiss Champion 14g for £25.68
They do the DT Swiss Champion 14g any length from 151 to 314 mm
https://www.spokesfromryan.com/
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I think that you did the right thing! Those spokes have held up for 40 years already and if they are undamaged they should easily last another 20. To me there is great satisfaction in completely disassembling a wheel, cleaning everything thoroughly and rebuilding it as good as new! And, you can spend the money you saved on beer, bike parts or both!
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Working on bringing back to life my 1981 Univega Specialissima Wheel Set. The Araya wheels are true and straight, but the spokes have some rust and are crusty. Looking for advice on replacing the spokes or cleaning them up? For now it is just a labor of love trying to bring this back to it's former glory. Original SunShine Gyromaster hubs should clean up nicely.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?