creakiness
#1
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creakiness
I have a significant creaking sound coming from the drivetrain in the front. Normally I would assume it's the bottom bracket and make sure it was adjusted properly, but it's a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. Are those adjustable? I am new to them so pardon me if it's a dumb question. I ruled out the chainring bolts but not the pedals. It seems like it would be weird for the pedals to both be acting up at the same time since it started suddenly after I converted to a fixed gear.
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I have a significant creaking sound coming from the drivetrain in the front. Normally I would assume it's the bottom bracket and make sure it was adjusted properly, but it's a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. Are those adjustable? I am new to them so pardon me if it's a dumb question. I ruled out the chainring bolts but not the pedals. It seems like it would be weird for the pedals to both be acting up at the same time since it started suddenly after I converted to a fixed gear.
- First, check the crankarm bolts and tighten them if they're loose.
- Still creaking? Check the pedals, just to rule them out. Remove them, clean and grease the threads, and re-install. Non-drive side is reverse-threaded.
- Still creaking? Remove the cartridge bottom bracket, clean and grease all threads, and re-install. Drive side is reverse-threaded.
- Still creaking? Maybe replace the cartridge if it's more than a couple years old.
#3
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- First, check the crankarm bolts and tighten them if they're loose.
- Still creaking? Check the pedals, just to rule them out. Remove them, clean and grease the threads, and re-install. Non-drive side is reverse-threaded.
- Still creaking? Remove the cartridge bottom bracket, clean and grease all threads, and re-install. Drive side is reverse-threaded.
- Still creaking? Maybe replace the cartridge if it's more than a couple years old.
I know in the old cup and cone bb's the drive side was basically as tight as you can, and the nds was just tight enough to eliminate play, and then the lock ring gets tightened pretty good.
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Are you sure it's not just your wheel spokes moaning and groaning as you put power into the cranks? Or maybe your sweaty bike shorts rubbing on your saddle.
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#6
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Yes, and yes. The spokes are numerous and heavy, not unlike the crowd at wal mart on black Friday, and my shorts expressly promised to wick moisture away to, I can only assume, some other place, probably in a bunker under a mountain somewhere.
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RTFM. Seriously, it's probably etched right on the cup. If not it's in the instructions thoughtfully included in the box.
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#11
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Had a similar issue a few years ago and exhausted many possible causes before taking my bike to my mechanic whose father was a chemist - my mechanic also had an interest in chemistry and had success applying Loctite 660 to each sealed bearing surface , reinstalling the two press fit cups , and letting it set overnight .
He did this with my bike and the creak was gone the next day - PM me if you have questions .
Amazon.com: Loctite 66040 Loctite Retaining Compound, Surface Repair, 50 mL, Silver : Industrial & Scientific
He did this with my bike and the creak was gone the next day - PM me if you have questions .
Amazon.com: Loctite 66040 Loctite Retaining Compound, Surface Repair, 50 mL, Silver : Industrial & Scientific
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I have a significant creaking sound coming from the drivetrain in the front. Normally I would assume it's the bottom bracket and make sure it was adjusted properly, but it's a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. Are those adjustable? I am new to them so pardon me if it's a dumb question. I ruled out the chainring bolts but not the pedals. It seems like it would be weird for the pedals to both be acting up at the same time since it started suddenly after I converted to a fixed gear.
#14
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Thread Starter
Had a similar issue a few years ago and exhausted many possible causes before taking my bike to my mechanic whose father was a chemist - my mechanic also had an interest in chemistry and had success applying Loctite 660 to each sealed bearing surface , reinstalling the two press fit cups , and letting it set overnight .
He did this with my bike and the creak was gone the next day - PM me if you have questions .
Amazon.com: Loctite 66040 Loctite Retaining Compound, Surface Repair, 50 mL, Silver : Industrial & Scientific
He did this with my bike and the creak was gone the next day - PM me if you have questions .
Amazon.com: Loctite 66040 Loctite Retaining Compound, Surface Repair, 50 mL, Silver : Industrial & Scientific
The wheels are bolt on, not quick release.
Just to update -- I'll need around with it tomorrow and let you guys know. So far it's not the chainring bolts or the pedal (at least where they bolt on to the cranks. I tightened those and it still creaks. I'm hoping I was just to gentle tightening down the crank bolts, but if that doesn't fix it I'll pull the cranks and tighten the bottom bracket.
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#15
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How tight is the chain? It's got some slack, yeah?
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If it's not sagging at all, that's typically not enough slack, because every single speed drivetrain I've ever seen isn't concentric enough at hub and crank for there not to be tight spots through rotation - pretty sure if you feel the chain as you turn the crank there will be tight spots, but watch your fingers on that deadly fixie drivetrain...
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
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#18
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It was one of two things. Either the cranks were creaking on the bottom bracket spindle, since I pulled the cranks and heard creaking as they were coming off and they had no lube on them, or it may have been the bottom bracket although that's a little doubtful. The non-drive side of the bottom bracket was pretty loose so I snugged it down a bit. But i did it at the same time that I pulled the cranks and lubed them (just a dab if grease) and retightened the crank bolts, so I'm not sure which one it was but my money is on the crank arms against the spindles.
Thanks for everyone who helped out and threw in suggestions!
Thanks for everyone who helped out and threw in suggestions!
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The non-drive side of the bottom bracket was pretty loose so I snugged it down a bit. But i did it at the same time that I pulled the cranks and lubed them (just a dab if grease) and retightened the crank bolts, so I'm not sure which one it was but my money is on the crank arms against the spindles.
#21
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Hard to say, since you addressed three things at once (I would have done the same), but since the NDS BB cup was "pretty loose," I would guess that was the culprit. My crankarms always go on bone dry, and I've never had one make a peep unless the bolt was loose. Glad you got it sorted, regardless.
I did try tightening the crank bolts independently before hand but that didn't do it.
In any case it's quiet now so all is right with the world.
Last edited by cyrano138; 10-16-21 at 06:15 PM.
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