rustystrings61 

The bike budget is very very thin and small these days, but when this Tim Neenan/Lighthouse surfaced in the for sale section, I started selling stuff off and clearing the decks.



It appears to be roughly comparable to the Sequoia, but in mostly lugless fillet-brazed form, with the exception of the bottom bracket shell. I'm glad the Reynolds 531 decal remains, or at least a good chunk of it. The only stampings I can find on the frame are a serial number (1631) and what looks like M&M on the inside of the drive side dropout.

This is a very interesting bike, and my first fillet-brazed one. There are a lot of touches I really like, and some that raise my eyebrows a little. I love how refined and simple everything is. There are braze-ons for racks on the seatstays both at the top and bottom, there is a rear lamp boss on the left seatstay, threaded bosses for through-bolting the rear fender, two sets of bottle bosses, and a pump peg - all very neatly done with elegant simplicity. Oddly enough, it's built for nutted brake calipers, which makes me think this is an earlier bike. It's spaced at 127 mm OLD in the back, which suits me just fine - I don't plan on running more than 7 cogs in the back anyway.

One of the cool things is the amount of clearance, at least at first blush. A quick check indicates the fork would easily accomodate a 38 mm hybrid tire, possibly bigger. At the same time, everything looks clean and simple and uncluttered, but with gobs of room.

Not quite sure about how I feel regarding the head tube. I am so accustomed to seeing reinforcement in the form of lugs, or even reinforcing rings on lugless frames, at the top and bottom of the tube where the headset rings are pressed in. I suspect he used a Reynolds head tube here and relied on the strength of good steel to keep the shape. The seat tube, also, has no external reinforcement, just beautifully brazed binder bolt lugs.

It came to me with the Shimano bottom bracket still in place. I will probably attempt to remove it soon, unless I just leave it in place for some initial test rides. The current plan is to kill all the rust and touch it up, assemble it as I locate bits, then ride it for a while to determine what I think it needs. This includes seeing if I really, really like it or not. Odds are pretty good I will, which would then call for a professional repaint and new decals.

I did not weigh it yet, but I might get around to that. I note that it's 59 cm c-t, with a 57 cm top tube, 43 cm chainstays, and 73-degrees parallel head and seat tubes. The fork rake is right at 50 mm, so I figure trail will run around 54 mm on 32 mm tires. The geometry is very, very close to that of my 1976 Puch Royal X. I'm looking forward to riding it, eventually.

About the only parts I have on hand for it at the moment are a pair of T.A. Alize cranks I bought off this forum, a 27.2 seatpost, and a set of Rivendell Silver downtube shifters.

I know, this thread is worthless without pictures. I took these last night in the shop after an initial cleaning with Meguiar's polish and rags -

himespau 

Cool frame.

romperrr 

I was considering buying that frame, glad you did! Looking forward to your build. You're right, it has some really nice touches. How big of a tyre can you cram in the rear?

repechage

One of the few Central California builders.
Often these bike fly under the radar.
Diamond and Celmins are two others, there is another building bikes now in Goleta. Mod stuff.

rustystrings61 

I'm hoping to experiment with it soon, but a very busy family schedule may put it off. The seller indicated he had fitted it with 35s, and I am curious about how much larger I can go back there.

tricky 

Very cool. I love lugs, but I also love the clean look of a lug-less steel frame. I don't think I've seen rear lower rack mounts like that. Having fenders and racks terminate in the same or nearly the same point can look a bit busy. This approach would make for a nice clean rear end, even with a rack attached.

philpeugeot 

What's that braze-on on the rear left of the seat tube?

Erzulis Boat 

Too funny on how he spelled Lompoc, California.


People that pronounce it wrong say "lom-pock" and those in the know say "lom-poke", or the "poke" for short.

rustystrings61 

It IS clean work - I've owned a Joe Starck-built Rivendell and this one matches it or more in terms of clean, crisp, precise workmanship. When I look at this bike, I see a lot of thought went into it. The geometry isn't radical, just well thought out and blended with some interesting tubing choices. There are some nice subtleties in the shaping of the chainstays that I really like, a sinuous barely perceptible multidimensional set of curves where he took what looks like a round-section stay and made it round-oval-round a bit more than I'm used to seeing.

There are guides for lamp wiring, one you mentioned and another on the underside of the downtube between the headtube and the shift bosses. I suspect I will ignore those, as if I run generator lights I'll use a dynohub front and battery powered LED taillamp mounted on that handy little boss on the left seatstay. I tried to get Mercian to install such a thing on my Vincitore, but I don't think I was clear enough and it didn't happen. That looks like it could a very handy thing.

52telecaster

So beautiful!

winstonb 

Yay! I'm glad it's found its new home. Your right about it being such a unique frame, even with it not fitting me quite right, I was tempted to keep it as a wall hanger, but I knew it deserved to be ridden. Besides, now I've got room or something new!

rustystrings61 

This evening’s quick check reveals that, yes, the fork DOES permit tires as large as 38mm. Unfortunately the chain stay width maxed out around the 35 mm mark or so, at least if I want some clearance. In all honesty I’ll probably run 32s and fenders and call it good.

rustystrings61 

Life is more than kinda full right now, so my progress has been slow. My first task was to clean up rust and touch it up. The red I used is close but not an exact match - though it DOES precisely match a 1988 Sirrus. There was nothing scary under the rust, so I slathered on some red Rustoleum and called that done - for now.






Then it was time to tackle the hidden problem. There’s a considerable chunk of aluminum alloy stem quill buried down inside the steerer. I had sprayed its juncture with the steerer interior with Corrosion Block but it still resisted being driven out from below.




So I decided to cut it out from the inside. At the moment I have one cut that goes almost all the way through to the steerer and I am about 3/4 through about 180 degrees away. The plan is to make several more cuts as deep as I dare and then see if I can break it up and remove it.





Fingers crossed!

rustystrings61 

I made more sawcuts this morning, which may have helped matters. Then I concluded that what I really needed was some sort of cylinder I could insert into the underside of the steerer and smack with my 2-lb hammer to drive the stem remnants out. I dug around in the tool chest filled with inherited tools and found a long 1/2-in deep wall socket and the appropriate extension piece to use it with a 1/4-in socket. I rested the top of the steerer (wearing a locknut to protect threads and roundness!) on a massive wood block and commenced to wailin’ away on it. When I saw it had indeed moved I sprayed in some Liquid Wrench, gave it a moment, and resumed wailin’ until I was rewarded by the nasty bit of stem emerging. I’ll seriously want to clean up the steerer interior with a brake cylinder hone, but I think the hard part is done!


The offending stem remnant with the apparatus that drove it out.

Steerer awaiting the brake cylinder hone.


I tell myself that all that sawing helped.

Mr. 66

Oh I bet that felt good.

rustystrings61 

Please note that if you use this method, wrap or cover or otherwise protect the fork blades! Despite my care while smacking away, I still managed to nick the finish on the inside surfaces of the fork legs. They’re now touched up.

rustystrings61 

Life gets in the way of rehabbing old bikes, and my life especially! Still, in recent weeks I’ve gathered assorted bits and bobs and have an update at long last!

The first order of business was to break out the brake cylinder hone and smooth out the corrosion in the steerer and seat tubes. That done I raided the parts I pulled from the bitsa ‘86 Cannondale (frame listed in the for sale forum) for the 27.2 SR LaPrade seat post and an old Vetta saddle.

I was going to use the Shimano 600 headset but ran out of room on the steerer. Fortunately Tange Levin 26.4 headsets are cheap and last night I installed one.

This morning I used the day off to start bearing repack party 2023 and went to work on the mismatched but serviceable wheel set that came on a $40 ‘93 Bianchi Eros (that frame is also for sale!). I pulled both hubs apart and scrubbed them out and reassembled them with fresh grease (purchased today because the tub of grease I’ve been using for at least 20 years finally ran out!). A quick rim and spoke cleaning and a few minutes with a spoke wrench and they were ready for use. I pulled the 32mm Paselas formerly on the C’dale and mounted them, aired them up and did a quick mock up.




As I looked at it I realized it looked more than a little familiar. I stood it next to my ‘88 Specialized Sirrus.




Hmm. Here I thought i had acquired something akin to a Sequoia - but this geometry is a lot more like an Allez or a Sirrus. It takes 32mm tires, maybe even with fenders - but it’s a steep little beast. As in, the catalog spec for the Sirrus is 74x74 seat and head angles, and I swear the Lighthouse seat tube is more like 75. (edit - it’s 74 x 74)

The wheelbase is a whopping 1/4-in longer on the Lighthouse than the Sirrus. I think I will be hunting for a saddle I can get further back …

Robvolz 

This is a cool thread. Love the method of removing the stem. Much smarter than what I tried.

how long was Tim at specialized?

I found an older (82/83??) stump jumper in orange and I wondered if he had a hand in it.
robert

AdventureManCO 

What a killer frame. Are you still feeling iffy about the lack of substance at the headtube joints? If so, I shall ask you to compare it to my Le Grande, which has about 1/10th the substance of those lovely fillets haha.

Can't wait to see this one done!

Piff 

Slow and steady win the race Great find! I'll have to keep my eyes out for Lighthouse frames in the future, had no idea there were any frame builders in central california, let alone Lompoc.

unworthy1

Lompoc once home to the Vandenberg Airforce Base, now re-named the Vandenberg SPACEforce Base. Wonder what the next name will be...?
Lots of talented missle-scientist types and engineers in that isolated little burgh, and in addition to the extremely talented Central Coast frame builders already mentioned, up the coast (in SB and nearby) there was also one Chris Pauley who deserves the same high praise

rustystrings61 

I spent $22 or so yesterday on a Harbor Freight right angle drill adapter and a 5/16-in titanium bit to fit it -




- and successfully drilled out the rear brake bridge and the back of the fork crown. On went the RX-100 57mm reach calipers from the ‘93 Eros donor, followed by dialing in the brake pads reach.

I had bought a used SunTour Cyclone II braze in front derailleur a while back. It was missing a limit screw and a mount screw. I raised a later cheaper SunTour unit for both. The limit screw is too long, so someday I’ll shorten it. The bolt was also a bit long, but a concave brake washer works for now to line things up.

Bars and stem loomed. Nitto stuff has gotten even pricier. I went back to the parts bin and pulled a set of SR 42 cm Road Champions, then discovered a matching 10 cm stem. I mocked it up and measured - and it’s right, putting the bar tops less than 1.5-in below the saddle height.

I knew about the bars because earlier this week I dug through every box of bike parts in the store room on a vain search for the Tektro levers I bought a while back. This morning I remembered where I put them. I installed them along with the RX-100 bar end shifters and their matching long cage derailleur.

So what’s left? I hope to score a 113 JIS bottom bracket on the ‘bay; I will probably go there as well for a 28 or 30T 74 bcd granny ring; a 9-speed chain to play nice with the TA Alize chainset; bar tape, cables and housings …

How it looks now -







Just for fun, here it is next to its cousin the ‘88 Specialized Sirrus. I suspect this is going to be a lot of fun to ride!

mhespenheide 

Looking good!

I lived in Los Olivos for a few years and ran into Tim Neenan a few times when out riding on the roads. The first time, I passed him on a long straight stretch and immediately slowed down when I saw that he was riding a Lighthouse and I had to comment on it. "Nice Lighthouse! I hear really great things about them."

His response? "Thanks, I'm the guy who builds them."

rustystrings61 

I would LOVE to talk with him about this one but so far have had zero luck reaching him successfully. I am more and more enamored of this one the closer it gets to completion!

rustystrings61 

I finally got the stuck fixed cup out. In the end it required using a Campagnolo pedal wrench as part of a clamping setup to hold the Park fixed cup wrench in place while I wailed on it with a big-a$$ 2-lb hammer. But it’s out and now to clean up the grunge and PB Powerblaster residue from the shell, purchase and install a new bottom bracket assembly.



Whole lotta toolin’ goin’ on ….

The tenacious fixed cup