Vintage Look Tri Frame ??
#1
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Vintage Look Tri Frame ??
I posted in the Tri Forum, but thought I would try here too. Bought this after seeing it on Facebook for 4 weeks. No one wanted it. The owner said he ordered the frame from LBS and it didn't come with decals. Weird. He seems to remember it being a Look frame. I thought Kestrel but can't find anything similar on the web. I took a chance for peanuts. White tag on bottom bracket reads 000907. Gonna try to hunt that down
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That's an Aegis. The weird seatpost binder gives it away.
If I had to guess its original badging, I'd go with a Trek 5000, just because that was the most common in the US. Plus, you're in Wisconsin. There was an Aegis-made PDG Paramount, too, if memory serves.
I'm not aware of any Look-branded Aegis frames. My understanding is that the first Look carbon frames were made by TVT, later ones in-house, but our resident Look experts could tell you for sure.
--Shannon
If I had to guess its original badging, I'd go with a Trek 5000, just because that was the most common in the US. Plus, you're in Wisconsin. There was an Aegis-made PDG Paramount, too, if memory serves.
I'm not aware of any Look-branded Aegis frames. My understanding is that the first Look carbon frames were made by TVT, later ones in-house, but our resident Look experts could tell you for sure.
--Shannon
#3
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That's an Aegis. The weird seatpost binder gives it away.
If I had to guess its original badging, I'd go with a Trek 5000, just because that was the most common in the US. Plus, you're in Wisconsin. There was an Aegis-made PDG Paramount, too, if memory serves.
I'm not aware of any Look-branded Aegis frames. My understanding is that the first Look carbon frames were made by TVT, later ones in-house, but our resident Look experts could tell you for sure.
--Shannon
If I had to guess its original badging, I'd go with a Trek 5000, just because that was the most common in the US. Plus, you're in Wisconsin. There was an Aegis-made PDG Paramount, too, if memory serves.
I'm not aware of any Look-branded Aegis frames. My understanding is that the first Look carbon frames were made by TVT, later ones in-house, but our resident Look experts could tell you for sure.
--Shannon
1990 Profile For Speed Air Raid:Profile for Speed was mostly known for their bicycle parts but they did dabble in frames as well. Aegis had worked with Trek on some of their early carbon bikes and decided to go their own way due to some disagreements over construction techniques. They offered some private label frames to several companies including Profile. Nice looking frame with internal cable routing and a clean seat binder arrangement. Components are mostly Shimano 105 and 600 from the era.
Last edited by sdn40; 07-13-21 at 12:21 AM.
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I wonder if the serial number would tell you what the frame was originally badged as?
Super cool late 80s / early 90s go-fast bike. Those og HED wheels are rad.
--Shannon
Super cool late 80s / early 90s go-fast bike. Those og HED wheels are rad.
--Shannon
#5
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From what you've said and the very little I've now seen online, I gotta think it was never badged as anything ?? Purchased directly from Aegis ?? Unfortunately it looks as if they are out of business, but I am just starting to look around, and I'll definitely chase the serial # if I can
Last edited by sdn40; 07-13-21 at 12:44 AM.
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Aegis was still in business until maybe 5 years ago.
Another good hint is the sliding rear wheel dropout adjustment.
They also built the first generation carbon for Basso, and kept manufacturing in the US right up to the end (unlike Kestrel, who went offshore almost immediately).
'91 Basso Laguna
Another good hint is the sliding rear wheel dropout adjustment.
They also built the first generation carbon for Basso, and kept manufacturing in the US right up to the end (unlike Kestrel, who went offshore almost immediately).
'91 Basso Laguna
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#7
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Speaking of dropouts - the spacing is currently 127. That's not gonna cut it for me. Luckily (I hope) they used aluminum block dropout spacers. Can I shave these blocks down to allow modern wheelsets ??? I would have to find a way to do it accurately of course. And would I do both sides or only the non driveline side ??
Last edited by sdn40; 07-13-21 at 01:07 PM.
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Those are some bulky dropouts.
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128 mm spacing wasn't unusual around 1990. When D/A was 8 speed and 130 mm, and everything else was 7 speed and 126, it saved having to make 2 different frames. I'm not aware of it ever being a problem.
If it bugs the heck outta ya, and if you can machine the dropout blocks straight and flat, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't bother. Stick a wheel in there and ride it like you stole it!
(And, let's honest here... ya kinda did... 200 bones is a sweet, sweet deal!)
--Shannon
If it bugs the heck outta ya, and if you can machine the dropout blocks straight and flat, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't bother. Stick a wheel in there and ride it like you stole it!
(And, let's honest here... ya kinda did... 200 bones is a sweet, sweet deal!)
--Shannon
#11
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128 mm spacing wasn't unusual around 1990. When D/A was 8 speed and 130 mm, and everything else was 7 speed and 126, it saved having to make 2 different frames. I'm not aware of it ever being a problem.
If it bugs the heck outta ya, and if you can machine the dropout blocks straight and flat, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't bother. Stick a wheel in there and ride it like you stole it!
(And, let's honest here... ya kinda did... 200 bones is a sweet, sweet deal!)
--Shannon
If it bugs the heck outta ya, and if you can machine the dropout blocks straight and flat, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't bother. Stick a wheel in there and ride it like you stole it!
(And, let's honest here... ya kinda did... 200 bones is a sweet, sweet deal!)
--Shannon
Last edited by sdn40; 07-13-21 at 06:34 PM.
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And, yeah... I hear ya on the cables. I always figure that the only reason that Aegis didn't do an internal front brake cable was that they couldn't figure out how... if they coulda, they woulda.
I'd be really leery of buying 2000s-era proprietary wheels. Kysrium spokes were like 11 bucks a piece back in '03, and even then they were special-order parts direct from Mavic. Anything weirder than Ksyriums would be even harder... and the Good Lord help you if you strip a nipple. But they'd look hella dope on the bike, fo sho.
--Shannon
PS: The HEDs are, IMNSHO, wall art. I wouldn't ride 30 year old carbon wheels, nor sell them to anyone else. The disc would make a rad man-cave table...
Last edited by ShannonM; 07-13-21 at 06:49 PM.
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My '91 Basso/Aegis is set up for a 7 speed wheel as well.
I've reset a bunch of steel frames out to 130, but I'd worry about old CF.
Spreading the stays might be OK (or maybe not), but think about the dropouts not being parallel after the spread.
You're not going to be able to bend them back parallel, so when you tighten up the quick change lever, it will try to.
So all that force is going to go into the bond point between the dropout and wheel stay.
Seems to me that would be a problem eventually.
But I bet the frame builder's forum would have some experience with that.
I've reset a bunch of steel frames out to 130, but I'd worry about old CF.
Spreading the stays might be OK (or maybe not), but think about the dropouts not being parallel after the spread.
You're not going to be able to bend them back parallel, so when you tighten up the quick change lever, it will try to.
So all that force is going to go into the bond point between the dropout and wheel stay.
Seems to me that would be a problem eventually.
But I bet the frame builder's forum would have some experience with that.
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#14
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My '91 Basso/Aegis is set up for a 7 speed wheel as well.
I've reset a bunch of steel frames out to 130, but I'd worry about old CF.
Spreading the stays might be OK (or maybe not), but think about the dropouts not being parallel after the spread.
You're not going to be able to bend them back parallel, so when you tighten up the quick change lever, it will try to.
So all that force is going to go into the bond point between the dropout and wheel stay.
Seems to me that would be a problem eventually.
But I bet the frame builder's forum would have some experience with that.
I've reset a bunch of steel frames out to 130, but I'd worry about old CF.
Spreading the stays might be OK (or maybe not), but think about the dropouts not being parallel after the spread.
You're not going to be able to bend them back parallel, so when you tighten up the quick change lever, it will try to.
So all that force is going to go into the bond point between the dropout and wheel stay.
Seems to me that would be a problem eventually.
But I bet the frame builder's forum would have some experience with that.
I wouldn't spread the stays on this bike - or any carbon bike. But as I stated above (see the pics) I am thinking about taking a millimeter off of each aluminum dropout block to get the 130 that would allow a modern drivetrain
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Hmm, just spitballin', but what if you swapped those dropouts left to right, but mounted them outboard? Might that possibly just get you to 130?
Or maybe, since that frame was built into so many different brands, maybe there are existing thinner dropouts out there.
Or maybe, since that frame was built into so many different brands, maybe there are existing thinner dropouts out there.
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Super weird thought... If Aegis made MTB frames, I bet there's 135 mm plates out there as well. You could build some hella trick lightweight bombproof wheels around some blingy lightweight MTB hubs.
--Shannon
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The Wayback Machine still has a lot of the Aegis pages backed up.
Here's their own history
Interesting place to poke around, once you figure out how to use Wayback'
One more hint, when you are considering fitting a wider wheel, check the distance from the outside gear to the stays including chain clearance.
Not a big improvement if you start sawing a notch in your seat stay.
Here's their own history
Interesting place to poke around, once you figure out how to use Wayback'
One more hint, when you are considering fitting a wider wheel, check the distance from the outside gear to the stays including chain clearance.
Not a big improvement if you start sawing a notch in your seat stay.
Last edited by Chuckk; 07-14-21 at 08:44 AM.
#18
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The Wayback Machine still has a lot of the Aegis pages backed up.
Here's their own history
Interesting place to poke around, once you figure out how to use Wayback'
One more hint, when you are considering fitting a wider wheel, check the distance from the outside gear to the stays including chain clearance.
Not a big improvement if you start sawing a notch in your seat stay.
Here's their own history
Interesting place to poke around, once you figure out how to use Wayback'
One more hint, when you are considering fitting a wider wheel, check the distance from the outside gear to the stays including chain clearance.
Not a big improvement if you start sawing a notch in your seat stay.