Post your e.bike pictures here.
#876
Share the road.
The ride home was on mostly 55 mph highway with narrow shoulders and sometimes no shoulders. I didn't have a mirror either at the time. Also I rarely see anyone riding bikes on those roads.
#878
Junior Member
Some of my prior rides




My brand new rides:





My brand new rides:


Last edited by XxHaimBondxX; 03-02-22 at 03:24 PM.
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#880
Junior Member
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#884
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Location: socal
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500w, 48V Rice geared rear hub motor on Diamondback Axis frame (BTW, this is another relatively inexpensive bike that's still in operation 30+ years later for the elitists). The bike without battery weighs less than 36 pounds, so about 40 with a seatbag battery (52V, 4 ah good for 10 - 15 miles). At other times it has a 52V, 14 ah battery). The cadence PAS works fine; top speed was anticipated to be 28 mph, but it tops out at 25. The Rice kit (Amazon) was packaged well and came with many extras like head and tail lights. Also, my questions were attended to rapidly.

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#887
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central WI
Posts: 24
Bikes: Steyr Waffenrad (My personal favorite), Batavus Sport, Raleigh sport, Miyata 1000, old school Giant hybrid, several vintage transient projects, and a Raleigh Mixte for my FWB's. ;^)
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Wing Freedom X 1.1
My first ebike.
I added a few upgrades and some custom electrical mods.
36 Volt to 12 Volt regulator, For the bicolor motorcycle driving lights, USB, side marker lights, custom Voltmeter and the trailer electrical..
And a bit of red bling.


I added a few upgrades and some custom electrical mods.
36 Volt to 12 Volt regulator, For the bicolor motorcycle driving lights, USB, side marker lights, custom Voltmeter and the trailer electrical..
And a bit of red bling.



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#888
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central WI
Posts: 24
Bikes: Steyr Waffenrad (My personal favorite), Batavus Sport, Raleigh sport, Miyata 1000, old school Giant hybrid, several vintage transient projects, and a Raleigh Mixte for my FWB's. ;^)
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E Trailer
Every ebike should have a E trailer for hauling around the pooch.
Here's phase II completed. Phase III is a Raspberry Pi W, for Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, a

7" HDMI monitor, and a rear facing, autofocus cam, to monitor Schnitzel on my phone when she's onboard.
Phase IIIV is in the pipeline
And Dog Tax.




.
Here's phase II completed. Phase III is a Raspberry Pi W, for Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, a

7" HDMI monitor, and a rear facing, autofocus cam, to monitor Schnitzel on my phone when she's onboard.
Phase IIIV is in the pipeline
And Dog Tax.




.
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#896
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The forks appear to have aluminum stantions, and if I were you, would use double torque arms to insure the front axles don't "rotate" and spin the wheel out of them.
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#897
Newbie

Last edited by CVT; 07-30-22 at 08:51 AM. Reason: Picture added
#898
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As I stated in the other thread, I meant the lowers since that's where the axle is retained by the dropouts during operation. They have always been aluminum in my experience (although probably there are some steel ones). The relatively soft aluminum dropouts need to keep the axle flats from rotating during operation and have failed at times.
#899
Newbie
2old, Thank you for pointing that out, the fork lowers are alloy, eventhough I am planning to use the bike for slight use I will install torque arms just to be safe, would you recommend to install just on one side? any particuar ones to look for?
#900
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I had a steel fork and used only one arm which was a Grin (ebikesca) Type 4 I got from Amazon. Theirs uses two hose clamps to secure the arm since AIR they stated that they experienced failure with one clamp.Sometimes it's difficult to mount two arms since the plug on the wire from the motor may have a connector that inhibits the part that goes on the axle. I would try to use two however you need to do it.
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