MINT Early 70’s Peugeot PX10 Reynolds531 Record Du Monde
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08-18-22, 10:19 AM
#27
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I agree with bikemig about the wheels, I love Campy Tipo hubs and I ride them on many bikes. I like Normandy Competition hubs laced to tubulars too, but if it were my bike, even if I aquired the original wheelset I’d likely still ride these Tipo wheels. This is a beautiful PX10! Congratulations.
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08-18-22, 12:49 PM
#28
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Also came with this Silica pump attached (removed it to mount the bike on the rack & get home). interestingly enough, it has a Campagnolo fitting at the nozzle end.
08-18-22, 02:47 PM
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Niiice find, so clean, congrats. Not much to add, 100% agree with what has been said. Definitely a ‘72 (maybe ‘73) model, racing oriented so IMHO doesn’t deserve light/generator, rack or pie plate, I’d definitely bring it back to its original build with Maillard hubs, Mavic rims and most likely an Idéale saddle. And can only confirm: get a proper 23,35 crank puller, the crank will be grateful…
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08-18-22, 04:49 PM
#30
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Sacrilege to some, but I converted my '72 PX-10 to a 650b all-road ride (and it is fantastic), but in this case, with this amazing condition, I gotta agree with the 'keep/return it to original (as much as practical)' sentiment!
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08-18-22, 09:14 PM
#31
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You should dip the two ends of that Campy pump head in Plasti-Dip, so they do not damage your paint.
Alternatively, you can often buy or find little plastic covers for them, if you look around.
Alternatively, you can often buy or find little plastic covers for them, if you look around.
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08-19-22, 06:51 PM
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Niiice find, so clean, congrats. Not much to add, 100% agree with what has been said. Definitely a ‘72 (maybe ‘73) model, racing oriented so IMHO doesn’t deserve light/generator, rack or pie plate, I’d definitely bring it back to its original build with Maillard hubs, Mavic rims and most likely an Idéale saddle. And can only confirm: get a proper 23,35 crank puller, the crank will be grateful…
Definitely a Great idea.
08-19-22, 06:52 PM
#34
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I agree with bikemig about the wheels, I love Campy Tipo hubs and I ride them on many bikes. I like Normandy Competition hubs laced to tubulars too, but if it were my bike, even if I aquired the original wheelset I’d likely still ride these Tipo wheels. This is a beautiful PX10! Congratulations.
08-19-22, 07:43 PM
#35
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Mark B
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08-19-22, 08:04 PM
#36
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If it is there, I'd remove it, lest you see this someday:
In case you can't tell from the pic, that is the seat tube, rust-perforated all the way around, i.e. the seat tube is in two pieces.
That happened because the bike was ridden in the rain. In theory, it might only take one time, but most likely it was habitual. The spray off the back tire hits the slit in the back of the seat lug, and thus enters the seat tube. Normally it would drain down to the BB shell, but the cork causes a puddle of water to stay right on top of the cork. The tiny gap that allowed the water to enter isn't big enough to allow much evaporation, especially in our cool damp climate in Seattle, so the puddle can stay there doing its dirty work, as long as it takes.
I love the irony of this happening just below the INOXYDABLE (un-rustable) decal. "How's that workin' out for ya?"
I repaired that frame, by splicing in a new piece of 28 mm (French diameter) Reynolds 531 with a backing tube inside it, that's brazed to the good unrusted metal above and below the ruined part. Probably too much work for such a common frame in such bad condition, but I hated to throw it away, and I'm a hobbyist.
This Flickr story is incomplete, doesn't show it after brazing. I may upload more pics later, but it's on hold for now while I decide what to do next. The braze came out great, but a complete paint job is too expensive, and it looks really crappy as-is. Knowing me, I'll probably hang it on a hook for 10 years, then decide what to do.
Edit: I feel a need to insist that it wasn't me who allowed this to happen! I was given the frame for free, so all I have invested in it besides my time is some brazing rod, acetylene and oxygen, and my time that I count as hobby time, no dollar value.
All my bikes have fenders except a couple that are for sunny days only, and even those get taken apart and aired out now and then, with a spritz of Frame Saver or some such for good measure. There's no way I'd allow a cork in my seat tube, and my bottom brackets have drain holes.
Mark B
Last edited by bulgie; 08-19-22 at 08:10 PM.
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08-20-22, 12:42 PM
#37
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Just gently pushed it back into its position. It seems like the adhesive became soft from the SoCal sun beams lol
08-20-22, 12:51 PM
#38
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
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08-20-22, 12:58 PM
#39
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Also check to see if there is a cork in the seat tube, though I think that may have only been on slightly older models. I have heard from about a dozen people who found them in their PXes though, so I'm pretty sure it was done at the factory.
If it is there, I'd remove it, lest you see this someday:
In case you can't tell from the pic, that is the seat tube, rust-perforated all the way around, i.e. the seat tube is in two pieces.
That happened because the bike was ridden in the rain. In theory, it might only take one time, but most likely it was habitual. The spray off the back tire hits the slit in the back of the seat lug, and thus enters the seat tube. Normally it would drain down to the BB shell, but the cork causes a puddle of water to stay right on top of the cork. The tiny gap that allowed the water to enter isn't big enough to allow much evaporation, especially in our cool damp climate in Seattle, so the puddle can stay there doing its dirty work, as long as it takes.
I love the irony of this happening just below the INOXYDABLE (un-rustable) decal. "How's that workin' out for ya?"
I repaired that frame, by splicing in a new piece of 28 mm (French diameter) Reynolds 531 with a backing tube inside it, that's brazed to the good unrusted metal above and below the ruined part. Probably too much work for such a common frame in such bad condition, but I hated to throw it away, and I'm a hobbyist.
This Flickr story is incomplete, doesn't show it after brazing. I may upload more pics later, but it's on hold for now while I decide what to do next. The braze came out great, but a complete paint job is too expensive, and it looks really crappy as-is. Knowing me, I'll probably hang it on a hook for 10 years, then decide what to do.
Edit: I feel a need to insist that it wasn't me who allowed this to happen! I was given the frame for free, so all I have invested in it besides my time is some brazing rod, acetylene and oxygen, and my time that I count as hobby time, no dollar value.
All my bikes have fenders except a couple that are for sunny days only, and even those get taken apart and aired out now and then, with a spritz of Frame Saver or some such for good measure. There's no way I'd allow a cork in my seat tube, and my bottom brackets have drain holes.
Mark B
If it is there, I'd remove it, lest you see this someday:
In case you can't tell from the pic, that is the seat tube, rust-perforated all the way around, i.e. the seat tube is in two pieces.
That happened because the bike was ridden in the rain. In theory, it might only take one time, but most likely it was habitual. The spray off the back tire hits the slit in the back of the seat lug, and thus enters the seat tube. Normally it would drain down to the BB shell, but the cork causes a puddle of water to stay right on top of the cork. The tiny gap that allowed the water to enter isn't big enough to allow much evaporation, especially in our cool damp climate in Seattle, so the puddle can stay there doing its dirty work, as long as it takes.
I love the irony of this happening just below the INOXYDABLE (un-rustable) decal. "How's that workin' out for ya?"
I repaired that frame, by splicing in a new piece of 28 mm (French diameter) Reynolds 531 with a backing tube inside it, that's brazed to the good unrusted metal above and below the ruined part. Probably too much work for such a common frame in such bad condition, but I hated to throw it away, and I'm a hobbyist.
This Flickr story is incomplete, doesn't show it after brazing. I may upload more pics later, but it's on hold for now while I decide what to do next. The braze came out great, but a complete paint job is too expensive, and it looks really crappy as-is. Knowing me, I'll probably hang it on a hook for 10 years, then decide what to do.
Edit: I feel a need to insist that it wasn't me who allowed this to happen! I was given the frame for free, so all I have invested in it besides my time is some brazing rod, acetylene and oxygen, and my time that I count as hobby time, no dollar value.
All my bikes have fenders except a couple that are for sunny days only, and even those get taken apart and aired out now and then, with a spritz of Frame Saver or some such for good measure. There's no way I'd allow a cork in my seat tube, and my bottom brackets have drain holes.
Mark B
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08-20-22, 01:17 PM
#40
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.
...I am amazed that this still has the original metal dork disc on it.
I have discovered a few of these bikes here in the SF Bay Area over the years. I have my own set of modifications I do to them, as projects, to produce a more reliable rider for myself, as a heavier rider, with wide feet. Those Pletscher racks were dreadful, but they were ubiquitous back then, because cheap and widely marketed. There have been many better rear racks made and abandoned to the used parts stream since those days, if you want to keep a rack on it for bags. Those generator lights never worked all that well, and the lights available now, with rechargeable Li ion batteries seem to work well, if you need lighting.
Look in this thread for some suggestions for workable upgrades and modifications that still remain true to character: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...on-thread.html
...I am amazed that this still has the original metal dork disc on it.
I have discovered a few of these bikes here in the SF Bay Area over the years. I have my own set of modifications I do to them, as projects, to produce a more reliable rider for myself, as a heavier rider, with wide feet. Those Pletscher racks were dreadful, but they were ubiquitous back then, because cheap and widely marketed. There have been many better rear racks made and abandoned to the used parts stream since those days, if you want to keep a rack on it for bags. Those generator lights never worked all that well, and the lights available now, with rechargeable Li ion batteries seem to work well, if you need lighting.Look in this thread for some suggestions for workable upgrades and modifications that still remain true to character: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...on-thread.html
08-20-22, 01:56 PM
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08-20-22, 02:04 PM
#42
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Nice find!
Firstly, I wouldn't actually use that front derailer, it may crack shortly after tensioning it's clamp bolt or within a year or less anyway. Maybe use an adhesive, so as not to have to tension it much at all.
The wheels are likely Italian-threaded, ...but is the freewheel? I would firstly check that out (if by chance it's a French-made freewheel, anyway).
The spoke disc appears to be Japanese(?).
Inspect your death-stem, ...in the event that someone may have attempted to twist the quill loose without first striking the loosened expander bolt.
The bike will look great with narrow 27" Paselas imho, and braking will be stronger than with 700c rims.
I've actually removed many Mod93 crankarms using the TA-sized remover, but usually by first tightening the tool only moderately, and then jumping on the pedals with the tool in place and tensioned. Using reversing torque cycles on the square tapers, the tool's driver bolt will be found to accept a bit more turning with each few applications of jumping on the horizontally-disposed crankarms.
Firstly, I wouldn't actually use that front derailer, it may crack shortly after tensioning it's clamp bolt or within a year or less anyway. Maybe use an adhesive, so as not to have to tension it much at all.
The wheels are likely Italian-threaded, ...but is the freewheel? I would firstly check that out (if by chance it's a French-made freewheel, anyway).
The spoke disc appears to be Japanese(?).
Inspect your death-stem, ...in the event that someone may have attempted to twist the quill loose without first striking the loosened expander bolt.
The bike will look great with narrow 27" Paselas imho, and braking will be stronger than with 700c rims.
I've actually removed many Mod93 crankarms using the TA-sized remover, but usually by first tightening the tool only moderately, and then jumping on the pedals with the tool in place and tensioned. Using reversing torque cycles on the square tapers, the tool's driver bolt will be found to accept a bit more turning with each few applications of jumping on the horizontally-disposed crankarms.
Last edited by dddd; 08-20-22 at 02:07 PM.
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08-20-22, 02:30 PM
#43
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The FD is fine. There is very little downward pressure on these things. It need only be tightened enough not to twist when you shift.
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08-21-22, 12:46 AM
#44
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Nice find!
Firstly, I wouldn't actually use that front derailer, it may crack shortly after tensioning it's clamp bolt or within a year or less anyway. Maybe use an adhesive, so as not to have to tension it much at all.
The wheels are likely Italian-threaded, ...but is the freewheel? I would firstly check that out (if by chance it's a French-made freewheel, anyway).
The spoke disc appears to be Japanese(?).
Inspect your death-stem, ...in the event that someone may have attempted to twist the quill loose without first striking the loosened expander bolt.
The bike will look great with narrow 27" Paselas imho, and braking will be stronger than with 700c rims.
I've actually removed many Mod93 crankarms using the TA-sized remover, but usually by first tightening the tool only moderately, and then jumping on the pedals with the tool in place and tensioned. Using reversing torque cycles on the square tapers, the tool's driver bolt will be found to accept a bit more turning with each few applications of jumping on the horizontally-disposed crankarms.
Firstly, I wouldn't actually use that front derailer, it may crack shortly after tensioning it's clamp bolt or within a year or less anyway. Maybe use an adhesive, so as not to have to tension it much at all.
The wheels are likely Italian-threaded, ...but is the freewheel? I would firstly check that out (if by chance it's a French-made freewheel, anyway).
The spoke disc appears to be Japanese(?).
Inspect your death-stem, ...in the event that someone may have attempted to twist the quill loose without first striking the loosened expander bolt.
The bike will look great with narrow 27" Paselas imho, and braking will be stronger than with 700c rims.
I've actually removed many Mod93 crankarms using the TA-sized remover, but usually by first tightening the tool only moderately, and then jumping on the pedals with the tool in place and tensioned. Using reversing torque cycles on the square tapers, the tool's driver bolt will be found to accept a bit more turning with each few applications of jumping on the horizontally-disposed crankarms.
Thank you for the suggestions! When I removed the FD, I realized it was cracked where the shifter cable stops. Its no wonder it moved freely on the seat tube
08-21-22, 09:07 AM
#45
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the forum had quite a lively thread on this subject just last year -
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...lca-pumps.html
-----
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08-21-22, 01:06 PM
#47
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08-21-22, 01:12 PM
#48
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08-21-22, 01:21 PM
#49
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There is a way to create a gallery and put photos in it in your profile, then another more 'senior' member can post the photos in the thread. TBH, though, I've never created a gallery, so I'm not exactly sure where you find the page to do it......
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08-21-22, 01:44 PM
#50
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I've found that short pieces of aquarium aerator tubing work well (or medical oxygen tubing).
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