Help me resurrect my 2006 Trek 7500 Multitrack.
#1
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Help me resurrect my 2006 Trek 7500 Multitrack.
I was born disabled with a terminal heart and lung condition. I bought this bike brand new in September of 2005 as a way to improve and maintain my health and truly enjoy cycling to the best of my ability. Prior to this I was so weak I couldn't walk more than a couple of blocks on flat ground without becoming winded. This bike was one of the best choices I've ever made in my life. It was a radical success enabling me to actually work a 40 hour a week job for the first time in my life for many years. Then my health got worse and under doctors orders I could no longer ride it. My health has been getting better and I want to ride it again and have my doctors approval now. However it's been in storage for the better part of a decade now and obviously needs to be restored to full function.
Can you guys help me with finding the parts to do this for as low a price as possible?
Here are the parts I know I will need:
Tires Found
Tubes Found
Shimano Chain
Brake pads Found
Shifters
Possibly a new non-suspension fork.
Also the bike is not shifting properly. It's sticking between shifts and can't access a whole third of it's gear range. I looked it up and it's a known issue that's usually caused by the grease in the shifting components drying up. The same grease that was put in at the date of manufacture and never touched since.
The plan is to get all the parts I need then take it to a local non-profit bike shop and support them in exchange for doing the labor to get my old friend back on the road.
https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/...k/7500/details
Also enjoy a picture from 2009 showing how happy this bike always made me.
Can you guys help me with finding the parts to do this for as low a price as possible?
Here are the parts I know I will need:
Shimano Chain
Shifters
Possibly a new non-suspension fork.
Also the bike is not shifting properly. It's sticking between shifts and can't access a whole third of it's gear range. I looked it up and it's a known issue that's usually caused by the grease in the shifting components drying up. The same grease that was put in at the date of manufacture and never touched since.
The plan is to get all the parts I need then take it to a local non-profit bike shop and support them in exchange for doing the labor to get my old friend back on the road.
https://archive.trekbikes.com/us/en/...k/7500/details
Also enjoy a picture from 2009 showing how happy this bike always made me.
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Last edited by ReptilesBlade; 09-06-22 at 03:40 PM. Reason: General update
#2
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I agree with some of what you probably need-such as: tires, tubes, and brake pads. You may be able to spray WD-40 into the levers and free them up. If the chain was well lubed when the the bike was not being used, and is in good shape, may just need a good cleaning and lube.Not a bad idea to clean the derailleurs with some WD and relube them also. Don't know make/model of fork, but if a coil spring fork, may just need to clean and regrease. The list of where to get parts is way too long to post, for the parts you may need, just search Google, and be sure to use a reputable seller. May not be the least costly way to go, but if you're not experienced with bike mechanics, might be worth taking to a good shop and have them go over it.
#3
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I agree with some of what you probably need-such as: tires, tubes, and brake pads. You may be able to spray WD-40 into the levers and free them up. If the chain was well lubed when the the bike was not being used, and is in good shape, may just need a good cleaning and lube. Not a bad idea to clean the derailleurs with some WD and relube them also. Don't know make/model of fork, but if a coil spring fork, may just need to clean and regrease. The list of where to get parts is way too long to post, for the parts you may need, just search Google, and be sure to use a reputable seller. May not be the least costly way to go, but if you're not experienced with bike mechanics, might be worth taking to a good shop and have them go over it.
The chain may just need nothing more than cleaned and re-lubed. I've got a picture of it in its current state below so you can tell me if I'm right.
The issue with the shifters is not the cable, I'm sure it's something internal to the mechanism itself. I would prefer not to have to buy new shifters though if these can just be opened up, cleaned, and then re-lubed back into good working order which is what I'm 90+% sure is all that they need.
The fork is a hydraulic one and just an optional consideration. It still works fine as far as I can ascertain. I could go either way with it and was just considering it since I'm going to be restoring the bike in general. I'll probably leave it as is.
This 7500 is not damaged in any way. It was in pristine condition when put away in storage 7-8 years ago and really the worst of it now is just the result of said neglect.
Thank you.
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#4
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I would try to avoid disassembling the shifters. Try just putting a plastic bag to catch overspray and spray the internals with WD. Did this with my wife's '98 mtn bike and worked for it. Chain doesn't look bad--If it isn't "stretched", a clean and lube should do. Good to hear you're getting it back into shape so you can work on getting back into shape. Best o'luck to ya!
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I agree with freeranger to start with tires, tubes, and brake pads. You'll see the biggest differences from these and they'll get you going and then you can figure out what else you might want to do.
For tires, I'd recommend the Continental Speed Rides (out of stock at that website, but perhaps your local bike shop can get their hands on some) They're light, comfortable to ride, and inexpensive -- a great value for what you pay (which is usually about 25 dollars each). They're way better than any Bell or Innova brand folded tire you might find at Walmart or Target.
Tubes are pretty standardized and you can get these anywhere. I prefer the Continental Conti Tour tubes, as they have a threaded Schrader valve with a little nut that helps retain the valve stem during air pressure checks or inflation.
For brake pads, I'd recommend either these Kool-Stop dual compound pads or these Jagwire pads. I have used both and have been pleased with both.
For tires, I'd recommend the Continental Speed Rides (out of stock at that website, but perhaps your local bike shop can get their hands on some) They're light, comfortable to ride, and inexpensive -- a great value for what you pay (which is usually about 25 dollars each). They're way better than any Bell or Innova brand folded tire you might find at Walmart or Target.
Tubes are pretty standardized and you can get these anywhere. I prefer the Continental Conti Tour tubes, as they have a threaded Schrader valve with a little nut that helps retain the valve stem during air pressure checks or inflation.
For brake pads, I'd recommend either these Kool-Stop dual compound pads or these Jagwire pads. I have used both and have been pleased with both.
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#6
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The issue with the shifters is not the cable, I'm sure it's something internal to the mechanism itself. I would prefer not to have to buy new shifters though if these can just be opened up, cleaned, and then re-lubed back into good working order which is what I'm 90+% sure is all that they need.
And why am I getting a sidebar ad showing various cuts of raw meat and what looks like a pickled fetal pig?? It's kind of horrifying.
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I rebuilt a 2003 Trek 7300 back a few years, took it down the frame, the bike shop found me a non-suspension fork. Everything thing else I found on craiglist or E-bay and put it back together except the fork, I let the shop do that. Chains for that drive train should be easy to locate online or a local shop. I think you would enjoy getting rid of 4 to 6 lbs by going with a non suspension fork. I eventually had some new wheels built and used this bike as a commuter for almost 8k miles before I sold it. All the drive train and brakes were Shimano LX or EX 8 speed. I got a non suspension seatpost and picked up a new handle bar at the bike shop for $30 give or take.
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Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Brian | 2023 Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS | 2023 Trek CheckPoint SL 7 AXS | 2016 Trek Emonda ALR | 2022 Trek FX Sport 5
Last edited by jaxgtr; 09-11-22 at 05:41 PM.
#8
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I rebuilt a 2003 Trek 7300 back a few years, took it down the frame, the bike shop found me a non-suspension fork. Everything thing else I found on craiglist or E-bay and put it back together except the fork, I let the shop do that. Chains for that drive train should be easy to locate online or a local shop. I think you would enjoy getting rid of 4 to 6 lbs by going with a non suspension fork. I eventually had some new wheels built and used this bike as a commuter for almost 8k miles before I sold it. All the drive train and brakes were Shimano LX or EX 8 speed. I got a non suspension seatpost and picked up a new handle bar at the bike shop for $30 give or take.
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#9
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I agree with freeranger to start with tires, tubes, and brake pads. You'll see the biggest differences from these and they'll get you going and then you can figure out what else you might want to do.
For tires, I'd recommend the Continental Speed Rides (out of stock at that website, but perhaps your local bike shop can get their hands on some) They're light, comfortable to ride, and inexpensive -- a great value for what you pay (which is usually about 25 dollars each). They're way better than any Bell or Innova brand folded tire you might find at Walmart or Target.
Tubes are pretty standardized and you can get these anywhere. I prefer the Continental Conti Tour tubes, as they have a threaded Schrader valve with a little nut that helps retain the valve stem during air pressure checks or inflation.
For brake pads, I'd recommend either these Kool-Stop dual compound pads or these Jagwire pads. I have used both and have been pleased with both.
For tires, I'd recommend the Continental Speed Rides (out of stock at that website, but perhaps your local bike shop can get their hands on some) They're light, comfortable to ride, and inexpensive -- a great value for what you pay (which is usually about 25 dollars each). They're way better than any Bell or Innova brand folded tire you might find at Walmart or Target.
Tubes are pretty standardized and you can get these anywhere. I prefer the Continental Conti Tour tubes, as they have a threaded Schrader valve with a little nut that helps retain the valve stem during air pressure checks or inflation.
For brake pads, I'd recommend either these Kool-Stop dual compound pads or these Jagwire pads. I have used both and have been pleased with both.
I was going to get these tires and tubes as they seem to be the closest equivalent to the original Bontrager equipment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6UWQ3W...v_ov_lig_dp_it
I was planning on getting these brake pads for the same reason.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014WN8WA...v_ov_lig_dp_it
I called my local bike shop and they said it would be $50-60 to do the labor for the tires/tubes, brake pads, clean and relube the chain, and to repair the shifting problem. I was looking for a potential chain in case it does need to be replaced. But I'll just save that for the bike shop. If they clean the existing one and find out it's messed up then I'll just pay them to replace it with something off the shelf there.
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#11
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Yeah, I'm going for inexpensive not cheap on the repairs. This bike means a lot to me and I want to use quality parts because it deserves it after all the positive things it's done for me in the past. If I don't have to spend money then I won't but I still want to do this right. I literally only found out I can ride bikes again at all this spring. And the other ride I have is definitely not as comfortable as this 7500. I'm actually in pain after just a couple of miles on the Roadmaster Pro Tour. The more I ride it the less I like it. I'm either going to turn it into a overpowered electric bike next year or get rid of it altogether. Most likely the latter.
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#12
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I think you'll like the Continental Ride Tour tires. I have them in size 54-584 (27.5 x 2) and they're very smooth and quiet rolling. The center tread rib (and each of the tread blocks also) is a good 3-4mm thick and the rubber seems very durable. I have several hundred miles on mine and the little mold lines haven't even worn off yet...not even from the rear tire. I recommend these highly.
Do beware that Continental tires tend to run on the smaller side. If you buy ones marked 32mm, they may be only 30mm or so when inflated on the rim. If you're looking for actual 32mm tires, then you might consider sizing up to ones nominally marked 35mm or 37mm.
Do beware that Continental tires tend to run on the smaller side. If you buy ones marked 32mm, they may be only 30mm or so when inflated on the rim. If you're looking for actual 32mm tires, then you might consider sizing up to ones nominally marked 35mm or 37mm.
#13
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Thanks for the tip. If they aren't the right size for whatever reason I'll keep that in mind and replace them with the next size up. I wouldn't have know about that if you hadn't told me.
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