Show us your Peugeot PX10 !
03-27-12, 03:39 PM
#101
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Wow, Biofuel, that's one of the most pristine white Nervex Pro PX-10's I've ever seen. Is that the original paint?
03-27-12, 03:48 PM
#102
my name is Jim
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70 Pogliaghi ItalCorse, 72 De Rosa, 72 Masi Gran Criterium, 75 Masi Gran Criterium, 77 Melton, 79 Bianchi Super Leggera, 79 Gios Super Record, 81 Picchio Special, 82 Guerciotti Super Record, 82 Colnago Profil CX, 83 Colnago Superissimo, 84 Fuso
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03-27-12, 05:33 PM
#105
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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A PX10 has two dual-coil pickups. A UO8 has a big sound hole in the top. Otherwise they are identical. Eye-(clap)-dentical-(hold hands up).
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With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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03-27-12, 07:35 PM
#108
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The PX10 is a high end, racy and very beautiful and collectible bike, as you see here in this thread.
Some versions, (especially the 60's models &/ rarer colors with fancy lugs) command high prices.
Preference is based on the needs of the rider, and his pocket book.
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03-27-12, 08:37 PM
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The U08 is a basic, utilitarian but very attractive and nice riding bike. It makes an excellent commuter or light tourer. They are a great 1st vintage bike.
The PX10 is a high end, racy and very beautiful and collectible bike, as you see here in this thread.
Some versions, (especially the 60's models &/ rarer colors with fancy lugs) command high prices.
Preference is based on the needs of the rider, and his pocket book.
The PX10 is a high end, racy and very beautiful and collectible bike, as you see here in this thread.
Some versions, (especially the 60's models &/ rarer colors with fancy lugs) command high prices.
Preference is based on the needs of the rider, and his pocket book.
03-27-12, 09:33 PM
#111
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Well, I happen to own a UO8 and a guitar with a big sound hole, so I guess that settles it. Oh, wait, I also own a guitar with two dual-coil pickups (which I don't play much), but alas no PX10. For speed riding or laying down 80+ miles there is no question, the PX10. For beauty, the PX10 wins that battle too. For riding to work on a day when it might rain for the trip home, or when the sky is dark and overcast, I'd certainly leave the PX10 at home, if I had one, which I don't. Unless Auchen wants to send his to me. Or his Motobecane Grand Jubile. But the PX10 has more pizazz.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
03-28-12, 07:24 AM
#112
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I'd love to help out, Jim - but I just can't bring myself to part with my PX10s (neither the wheeled nor the twin-coiled versions!
)PS- Phaseshift: I snuck in a photo of my European U08 ("Ue8") in "touring" regalia just for comparison's sake. BOTH are terrific bikes in their own right, but very different beasts.
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03-28-12, 11:08 AM
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can someone someone tell me if this is a good deal, he says the fram is a 54 which is what I am and was wondering of getting this bike to work on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180850398192...#ht_500wt_1413
he says the serial is 1737571, any clue as to what year?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180850398192...#ht_500wt_1413
he says the serial is 1737571, any clue as to what year?
03-28-12, 12:21 PM
#114
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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can someone someone tell me if this is a good deal, he says the fram is a 54 which is what I am and was wondering of getting this bike to work on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180850398192...#ht_500wt_1413
he says the serial is 1737571, any clue as to what year?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180850398192...#ht_500wt_1413
he says the serial is 1737571, any clue as to what year?
Be aware that bikes like that one, or any UO8 from that era, will have French threading. That limits the exchangibility of parts and makes your working-on learning curve more specific.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
03-28-12, 12:30 PM
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I'd love to help out, Jim - but I just can't bring myself to part with my PX10s (neither the wheeled nor the twin-coiled versions! )
PS- Phaseshift: I snuck in a photo of my European U08 ("Ue8") in "touring" regalia just for comparison's sake. BOTH are terrific bikes in their own right, but very different beasts.
)PS- Phaseshift: I snuck in a photo of my European U08 ("Ue8") in "touring" regalia just for comparison's sake. BOTH are terrific bikes in their own right, but very different beasts.
03-28-12, 01:59 PM
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03-28-12, 03:12 PM
#118
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03-28-12, 03:25 PM
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can someone someone tell me if this is a good deal, he says the fram is a 54 which is what I am and was wondering of getting this bike to work on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180850398192...#ht_500wt_1413
he says the serial is 1737571, any clue as to what year?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180850398192...#ht_500wt_1413
he says the serial is 1737571, any clue as to what year?
it's a good deal by Northern California standards.
Just so you know, these came with tubular rims and tires
as original equipment, so unless you plan on riding tubulars,
relacing the hubs to new rims should be included in your cost
calculations.
Personally, no matter how tempting, i will never buy a bike
on e-bay. I need to see it right in front of me to figure out
how much work and money the total is gonna run to put it
on the road.
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03-28-12, 03:47 PM
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^ That one appears identical to mine, even with the Ideale, even in size. Except...condition and (lack of) modifications where mine loses many points.
Phaseshift: there are wise words here. Elsewhere you have indicated you are quite new to C&V bikes and have already (I think) bought a few that are projects.
A PX-10 is not a project for a beginner. And the eBay one, no matter how nice, is going to have some aspect of 'project' about it. Any of these bikes is.
I would advise (not that you asked) you work on some lesser bikes, like the ones you (probably) have, try some things out, and see not only how you like the process, but what kind of bikes you like. For me, starting just a few years ago, the 'starter' bikes were all mid 80s Japanese, which were easy to work on and seemed to consistently appear in not-bad condition. It was quite a while and several bikes before I spent more than $100 in buying one. And those 'easy' bikes were good preparation for more ambitious projects later on.
Now I have a PX-10, my size, bought locally but through eBay, which turned out to be a bit rough, and I probably overpaid for it. However as I can do the work myself and find the needed parts very cheaply, it's not a disaster. If I had tried to tackle this at the beginning of my C&V interest it would have cost a mint and been very discouraging. Now it's just an interesting project.
Phaseshift: there are wise words here. Elsewhere you have indicated you are quite new to C&V bikes and have already (I think) bought a few that are projects.
A PX-10 is not a project for a beginner. And the eBay one, no matter how nice, is going to have some aspect of 'project' about it. Any of these bikes is.
I would advise (not that you asked) you work on some lesser bikes, like the ones you (probably) have, try some things out, and see not only how you like the process, but what kind of bikes you like. For me, starting just a few years ago, the 'starter' bikes were all mid 80s Japanese, which were easy to work on and seemed to consistently appear in not-bad condition. It was quite a while and several bikes before I spent more than $100 in buying one. And those 'easy' bikes were good preparation for more ambitious projects later on.
Now I have a PX-10, my size, bought locally but through eBay, which turned out to be a bit rough, and I probably overpaid for it. However as I can do the work myself and find the needed parts very cheaply, it's not a disaster. If I had tried to tackle this at the beginning of my C&V interest it would have cost a mint and been very discouraging. Now it's just an interesting project.
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03-28-12, 03:56 PM
#123
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^ That one appears identical to mine, even with the Ideale, even in size. Except...condition and (lack of) modifications where mine loses many points.
Phaseshift: there are wise words here. Elsewhere you have indicated you are quite new to C&V bikes and have already (I think) bought a few that are projects.
A PX-10 is not a project for a beginner. And the eBay one, no matter how nice, is going to have some aspect of 'project' about it. Any of these bikes is.
I would advise (not that you asked) you work on some lesser bikes, like the ones you (probably) have, try some things out, and see not only how you like the process, but what kind of bikes you like. For me, starting just a few years ago, the 'starter' bikes were all mid 80s Japanese, which were easy to work on and seemed to consistently appear in not-bad condition. It was quite a while and several bikes before I spent more than $100 in buying one. And those 'easy' bikes were good preparation for more ambitious projects later on.
Now I have a PX-10, my size, bought locally but through eBay, which turned out to be a bit rough, and I probably overpaid for it. However as I can do the work myself and find the needed parts very cheaply, it's not a disaster. If I had tried to tackle this at the beginning of my C&V interest it would have cost a mint and been very discouraging. Now it's just an interesting project.
Phaseshift: there are wise words here. Elsewhere you have indicated you are quite new to C&V bikes and have already (I think) bought a few that are projects.
A PX-10 is not a project for a beginner. And the eBay one, no matter how nice, is going to have some aspect of 'project' about it. Any of these bikes is.
I would advise (not that you asked) you work on some lesser bikes, like the ones you (probably) have, try some things out, and see not only how you like the process, but what kind of bikes you like. For me, starting just a few years ago, the 'starter' bikes were all mid 80s Japanese, which were easy to work on and seemed to consistently appear in not-bad condition. It was quite a while and several bikes before I spent more than $100 in buying one. And those 'easy' bikes were good preparation for more ambitious projects later on.
Now I have a PX-10, my size, bought locally but through eBay, which turned out to be a bit rough, and I probably overpaid for it. However as I can do the work myself and find the needed parts very cheaply, it's not a disaster. If I had tried to tackle this at the beginning of my C&V interest it would have cost a mint and been very discouraging. Now it's just an interesting project.
I'm going to be going to our swapmeets every week hoping to find one for like 50 bucks or so that no one knows the value of the vintage frame.
03-28-12, 04:24 PM
#124
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Thank you for your response Chicago AL, everyone here is so helpful and I really appreciate it. I've only got one bike right now and it's my Univega Gran Rally, I was just thinking of getting another frame and learning that way but I'm going to go with you and everyone's advice to just learn from my current bike. I do plan on putting some extras on the bike as well as replacing some parts( if I win this ebay auction for a very cheap Shimano 600 Arabesque group) I'll start my learning curve here. But I will defnitely keep an eye out for these vintage frames.
I'm going to be going to our swapmeets every week hoping to find one for like 50 bucks or so that no one knows the value of the vintage frame.
I'm going to be going to our swapmeets every week hoping to find one for like 50 bucks or so that no one knows the value of the vintage frame.
In the end, it comes down to your personality. If you enjoy laboring over details, bike history, reading a lot before doing anything, and don't get intimidated easily, I think it's fine to start out on a hard project. A very important distinction of my case was the low risk of permanently screwing up a UO8 (I didn't). The higher risk shouldn't rule out starting with a PX-10 if you're willing to be that much more careful.
03-28-12, 05:00 PM
#125
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When I quit racing in '84 I got rid of EVERYTHING- but by '87 I wanted to ride again- I bought this in Indiana for $100 in the middle of a POUNDING thunderstorm. 23"- Just my size and everything.
Got rid of the sew ups right away- sick of 'em- and narrow 700c was a Godsend sent to replace their size about just then. If it had a Brooks saddle it probably wasn't in good shape and I probably threw it out. Steel seatpost had to go- alloy with built in clamp went on.
After riding Campy sidepull brakes for 14 years, I wasn't about to ride Mafac- hated working on em in bikeshops too- not even a center groove in the middle of the hanger- tilty little pads- although I didn't spring for Campy, I got some kind of generic sidepull that worked well and are still on her.
Simplex push rod front derailleur- threw it away and replaced with alloy suntour- until recently, when I put a Campy on. The back one I considered a stepdown, but it worked surprisingly well and I knew it had the Simplex dropouts- so I stayed with that until recently when it broke, and I eventually put a Nuovo Record on.
Stronglight 93- an alright crank- but I missed the Super Record and found an Omega knockoff very cheap a year ago- so went with that- Not that concerned with strict "Vintage" here- it's a good frame with nostalgic value for me. Takers?
pictures- 1. me and my Toyota "home" for several weeks ca.'93. I really loved that Avocet gel saddle and I think it finally broke sometime.
2.Bike with cat's a$$ in my welfare boarding room about the same time
3. A couple of years ago in Memorial Park next to St John's river Jacksonville.
I put the BMX bars on because of back trouble and it REALLY helps (with Yoga), and the funky but very ridable Bell cruiser saddle from Wal Mart
4 and 5. The PX10 and me after the new crank, red tires and gold leaf painted lugs.
Oh- the "Bear Trap" blue anno pedals- some of you may laugh- The Lyotards finally wore through the cage, and I decided I didn't want clips and straps anymore- I got these- and they are reasonably priced- I found that I really like them and for non-clip use, they have what feels to be even a mechanical advantage, being so wide front to back- especially on hills it's like putting this extra long fulcrum out front on the downstroke and the MX bars too are great for climbing- you can really get up on the pedals and fall forward on them- even though this is flat Florida I rode them in hilly southern Indiana.
I really love the thumb shifters too- I can shift without my hands leaving the grips.
Got rid of the sew ups right away- sick of 'em- and narrow 700c was a Godsend sent to replace their size about just then. If it had a Brooks saddle it probably wasn't in good shape and I probably threw it out. Steel seatpost had to go- alloy with built in clamp went on.
After riding Campy sidepull brakes for 14 years, I wasn't about to ride Mafac- hated working on em in bikeshops too- not even a center groove in the middle of the hanger- tilty little pads- although I didn't spring for Campy, I got some kind of generic sidepull that worked well and are still on her.
Simplex push rod front derailleur- threw it away and replaced with alloy suntour- until recently, when I put a Campy on. The back one I considered a stepdown, but it worked surprisingly well and I knew it had the Simplex dropouts- so I stayed with that until recently when it broke, and I eventually put a Nuovo Record on.
Stronglight 93- an alright crank- but I missed the Super Record and found an Omega knockoff very cheap a year ago- so went with that- Not that concerned with strict "Vintage" here- it's a good frame with nostalgic value for me. Takers?
pictures- 1. me and my Toyota "home" for several weeks ca.'93. I really loved that Avocet gel saddle and I think it finally broke sometime.
2.Bike with cat's a$$ in my welfare boarding room about the same time
3. A couple of years ago in Memorial Park next to St John's river Jacksonville.
I put the BMX bars on because of back trouble and it REALLY helps (with Yoga), and the funky but very ridable Bell cruiser saddle from Wal Mart
4 and 5. The PX10 and me after the new crank, red tires and gold leaf painted lugs.
Oh- the "Bear Trap" blue anno pedals- some of you may laugh- The Lyotards finally wore through the cage, and I decided I didn't want clips and straps anymore- I got these- and they are reasonably priced- I found that I really like them and for non-clip use, they have what feels to be even a mechanical advantage, being so wide front to back- especially on hills it's like putting this extra long fulcrum out front on the downstroke and the MX bars too are great for climbing- you can really get up on the pedals and fall forward on them- even though this is flat Florida I rode them in hilly southern Indiana.
I really love the thumb shifters too- I can shift without my hands leaving the grips.