Originally Posted by tjspiel

If brifters aren't an absolute requirement, I've been happy with the jTek bar end shifter but then I think you're stuck with Alfine for your IGH choices.

Originally Posted by chaadster

Ignoring why I took issue with your statement and confounding the discussion with more silly statements like "Most flat bars have some rise too, unless you use them backwards..." makes it clear your mind has gone 'missing in action' here. Perhaps you're still in a Thanksgiving food coma?

Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder

I say "most" to avoid conflict, the riser bars I've seen have rise.
What you consider to be a riser bar, may not.

Originally Posted by tjspiel

I wouldn't mind a bike like that either except that I'd add to the requirements that the frame not be steel. Before we get into the steel vs aluminum vs CF debate, I'll just add that this requirement is due to the excessive amounts of salt my city uses on the streets in the winter. And that's the same reason I'd like a belt drive vs a chain, though if the belt drive proved to also be quieter that would be a bonus too.

Rusty chains has been a constant problem for me since I've started riding year round. Switching to an IGH a couple of years ago seems to have a helped a bit but that might be just because we've not had as much snow.

If brifters aren't an absolute requirement, I've been happy with the jTek bar end shifter but then I think you're stuck with Alfine for your IGH choices.

Originally Posted by chaadster

So, your assertion is that riser bars have rise, and most flat bars do too, unless one uses them backwards?

Yeah...I'm done talking to you about such nonsense.

Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder

Please get your thoughts in, I'd hate for you not to have the last word.

Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder

Most flat bars have some rise too, unless you use them backwards which would put your posture @ a slight drop.

Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder

True flats/fixie style bars are straight/flat & short.
I wouldn't recommend these on anything other than fixie.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets

Nope. Flat bars have sweep. .

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets

Nope. Flat bars have sweep. You can rotate them slightly forward to turn that sweep into rise if you'd like. If you rotate them 180° then they'll have negative sweep but no rise.

You can set up risers to have flat grip sections or slightly rising grip sections if you prefer also.






BITD there were Shotgun Bars, for the MTB market. Flat bars with no sweep at all. Always wanted a pair of those but was just a poor teenager.

Originally Posted by fietsbob

straight 7/8" steel tube + a shim in the center, out to 1.0"... cheap and easy..

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets

Those bars are often nicknamed (pickle herb + female deer) bars.

Originally Posted by chaadster

Here's another, at a more affordable price point, though you will sacrifice full cable housing: https://civiacycles.com/bikes/kingfield/

Originally Posted by dynaryder

That doesn't have discs. The Bryant did;they're not made anymore,but do pop up occasionally on eBay. Norco had an SS one a few years ago that could be upgraded to an IGH,but they're not sold around here. I think Spot sells just frames;one of those could be built up as a drop bar. Also a couple belt drive SS MTB's that could be modded.

Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder

But slamming the stem with flat bars tend to place more weight on you hands. The lack of hand positions makes this more of a challenge.

Originally Posted by tjspiel

I wouldn't mind a bike like that either except that I'd add to the requirements that the frame not be steel. Before we get into the steel vs aluminum vs CF debate, I'll just add that this requirement is due to the excessive amounts of salt my city uses on the streets in the winter. And that's the same reason I'd like a belt drive vs a chain, though if the belt drive proved to also be quieter that would be a bonus too.

Rusty chains has been a constant problem for me since I've started riding year round. Switching to an IGH a couple of years ago seems to have a helped a bit but that might be just because we've not had as much snow.

If brifters aren't an absolute requirement, I've been happy with the jTek bar end shifter but then I think you're stuck with Alfine for your IGH choices.

Originally Posted by Ghost Ryder

Re-read this...
If you're trying to get aero on flats, you shift you weight forward on the palms of your hands, more importantly your ulnar nerve.
This is what causes numbness in the hands.
I don't think its possible to get aero on flats IMO.


The OP asked for a bike with dropbars, you brought up flats.
He also asked for a CX/tourer/ road style/type bike.
Most of these frame styles are more aggressive than a MTB, or hybrid, but not as much as a road frame.
I used my experience as an example since I have ridden all these type frames.

Slight change in hand position can alter the way your weight is distributed through your hand.
Same goes for exercising. Slight change in position will work different muscle groups even though your doing the same exercise.
ie:
Leg press/squat: toes in, toes out

Riser/flat bars do tend to raise your posture, yes the angle, & reach of the stem will have an effect too.
On a riser bar, the bar ends "rise", hence the name.
Dropbars, "drop" the rider into an aero position.
Most flat bars have some rise too, unless you use them backwards which would put your posture @ a slight drop.

Risers also have your hands usually wider than shoulder length apart, this is to steer, have more control in tight/technical sections on a mountain. Just this alone changes the way you weight is transfer to your hand.
Think conventional pushup, pull up.

Dropbars are either shoulder length or narrower.
We lean into turns, no real need to steer very often.
Think narrow knuckle pushup, pull up.



True flats/fixie style bars are straight/flat & short.
I wouldn't recommend these on anything other than fixie.

Originally Posted by asmac

If availability of hand positions is the issue check out the jones h-bar https://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar.html. I want one but maybe not the handbuffed $300 titanium version.

Drop bars limit choice in disc brakes, mostly to cable-operated systems (i.e. bb7). Hydraulic discs have many advantages. They are very easy to set up, don't freeze up from moisture in the housing and have a very nice touch. I've used both and absolutely prefer hydros. Bleeding has not been required and is not an issue. Apparently drop bars limit choice in IGH shifters also so I don't really get the net benefit over the h-bars.

Anyhow, it's your dream bike, OP. Send a picture.

Originally Posted by spare_wheel

1. time trial flat bar bicycles are quite "aero".
2. some individuals do not suffer from carpal tunnel syndrome and do experience numbness when using flat bars.
3. individuals who have core strength and the ability to bend their elbows can achieve a full tuck on a flat bar bike.
4. twitchy chopped flat bars are useful for any bike intended to ride the river of urban traffic. your mileage and skill may vary.

Originally Posted by dscheidt

Flat bars, and various swept back bars, of which the 'h-bar' is just one of dozens of styles, all have one thing in common. They require a hand position that has the knuckles more or less pointing up, which requires wrist rotation. Drop bars provide a hand position (or more than one) where the hands can have their palms facing each other, which doesn't require rotation. Drop bars also do a better job of providing different body positions than most alternatives.