THOMSON X2 Stem Screw Removal
08-16-22, 05:30 PM
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THOMSON X2 Stem Screw Removal
Can anyone 1. Give some advice on removing a stripped/almost stripped screw on the front of a THOMSON x2 stem?
I also don’t want to damage the 2nd screw so also wanted to know if anyone knows what direction I should be turning to loosen the bolt. Counter-clockwise?
I also don’t want to damage the 2nd screw so also wanted to know if anyone knows what direction I should be turning to loosen the bolt. Counter-clockwise?
08-16-22, 07:39 PM
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Clark W. Griswold
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Righty tighty, lefty loosey.
Make sure you are using the correct size hex wrench of high quality and it is properly seated in the bolt and when you do replace it make sure you are using the correct torque for the bolt, don't exceed it or go under it and again make sure you are using a high quality hex bit. Your most used tools should be of the absolute highest quality especially if you are spending money on high quality parts.
Make sure you are using the correct size hex wrench of high quality and it is properly seated in the bolt and when you do replace it make sure you are using the correct torque for the bolt, don't exceed it or go under it and again make sure you are using a high quality hex bit. Your most used tools should be of the absolute highest quality especially if you are spending money on high quality parts.
08-16-22, 07:44 PM
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To answer your second question first, it is definitely a left handed thread, so yes, you loosen it CCW. As to the first question, the best way to start IMO is to use an impact wrench. If that doesn't work, then try an easy-out, which will destroy the screw, but should remove it. Also, apply some WD 40 or other solvent to the screw to reduce the torque needed to loosen it as much as possible.
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08-17-22, 06:20 PM
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+1 on impact wrenches. They work quite nicely on really stuck bolts. We came across one at the shop on the tech had broken 2 or 3 T25 wrenches and I said well try an impact gun and it was off in a second nothing damaged.
08-21-22, 11:39 AM
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Yep impact drivers are great. You can get the manual kind that you bump with a hammer if you don't have a power/air one
I could recommend some "grip paste" also. Can't think of the exact name I used right now, been a couple years since I used it. Googling "grip paste stripped screw" brings up a few options
Also dumb suggestion but make sure you use metric allen keys, not the imperial/inch ones
at work we just weld on to it, drill it out, or grind a slot for a flathead, but i wouldn't want to do any of those near my bicycle lol
I could recommend some "grip paste" also. Can't think of the exact name I used right now, been a couple years since I used it. Googling "grip paste stripped screw" brings up a few options
Also dumb suggestion but make sure you use metric allen keys, not the imperial/inch ones
at work we just weld on to it, drill it out, or grind a slot for a flathead, but i wouldn't want to do any of those near my bicycle lol
08-21-22, 07:57 PM
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If it's that tight I'd be concerned the faceplate was cracked... Those X2s don't like to be over torqued
08-23-22, 09:27 PM
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A few things...
It's definitely counter-clockwise to loosen these screws.
The grippy, gritty stuff is called valve grinding compound. You probably don't want to buy even smallest available quantity of this stuff for one screw, but there are more widely available alternatives, like carbon assembly paste, maybe some kind of abrasive bathroom cleaner, anything with some grit to it that will stay in place long enough to get your tool in there.
I have a Thomson X2 that was really hard to torque tight enough to keep my bar from slipping. The faceplate doesn't appear to be cracked or stretched, but I never could get it to work. I replaced it with a cheaper four-bolt stem and it's the best thing I've ever done for that bike.
It's definitely counter-clockwise to loosen these screws.
The grippy, gritty stuff is called valve grinding compound. You probably don't want to buy even smallest available quantity of this stuff for one screw, but there are more widely available alternatives, like carbon assembly paste, maybe some kind of abrasive bathroom cleaner, anything with some grit to it that will stay in place long enough to get your tool in there.
I have a Thomson X2 that was really hard to torque tight enough to keep my bar from slipping. The faceplate doesn't appear to be cracked or stretched, but I never could get it to work. I replaced it with a cheaper four-bolt stem and it's the best thing I've ever done for that bike.
