Studded tire fitment
#1
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Studded tire fitment
Hello everyone,
New to living car free! Loving it so far, but haven't had to deal with ice yet. I am looking to put some studded tires on my commuter bicycle this winter. It is an old Fuji, with, as you can see, SKS fenders. I am currently running 700x28 Passela PT tires. Looking at the tire clearance I have now, would you expect me to have clearance issues with studded tires? I can adjust the fenders out a little.
Also, do you guys have any recommendations for 700x28 or 32 tires?
New to living car free! Loving it so far, but haven't had to deal with ice yet. I am looking to put some studded tires on my commuter bicycle this winter. It is an old Fuji, with, as you can see, SKS fenders. I am currently running 700x28 Passela PT tires. Looking at the tire clearance I have now, would you expect me to have clearance issues with studded tires? I can adjust the fenders out a little.
Also, do you guys have any recommendations for 700x28 or 32 tires?
#2
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My only experience is Nokia Suomi W106s 26x1.95 studded snow tires. 5 winters so far.
The studs run along each "shoulder" so the key is inflation. At max pressure, 65psi, the studs are off the pavement in straight ahead riding. At 32psi, the studs can dig into the ice in straight ahead riding, and at 25psi, the tire is best for loose deep snow.
The tread is deep, but there is enough overlap on the centerline, that straight ahead riding at max psi is fairly smooth. On snow, the tread works great.
And the soft, grippy compound works on wet pavement when temperatures hover around freezing.
At full psi, there's a slight speed and effort penalty over the 26x1.85 lightweight smoothies I run (WTB Slicks), and as conditions worsen and the psi drops to match them the speed drops and effort really increases, but the stability is magical.
When I bought the pair, my first time with studs, my main concern was being able to stop on a downhill on glare ice. They can do that just fine. However my shoes were not studded and I almost fell after stopping. But I seem to have learned how to do that without falling and I absolutely love them.
Clearance is not an issue for me since the summer tires are actually bigger.
https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1185648-studs.html
The studs run along each "shoulder" so the key is inflation. At max pressure, 65psi, the studs are off the pavement in straight ahead riding. At 32psi, the studs can dig into the ice in straight ahead riding, and at 25psi, the tire is best for loose deep snow.
The tread is deep, but there is enough overlap on the centerline, that straight ahead riding at max psi is fairly smooth. On snow, the tread works great.
And the soft, grippy compound works on wet pavement when temperatures hover around freezing.
At full psi, there's a slight speed and effort penalty over the 26x1.85 lightweight smoothies I run (WTB Slicks), and as conditions worsen and the psi drops to match them the speed drops and effort really increases, but the stability is magical.
When I bought the pair, my first time with studs, my main concern was being able to stop on a downhill on glare ice. They can do that just fine. However my shoes were not studded and I almost fell after stopping. But I seem to have learned how to do that without falling and I absolutely love them.
Clearance is not an issue for me since the summer tires are actually bigger.
https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/1185648-studs.html
#3
Senior Member
These are pretty true to size and fit most fenders: https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...2&category=178