Notices
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets HRM, GPS, MP3, HID. Whether it's got an acronym or not, here's where you'll find discussions on all sorts of tools, toys and gadgets.

Dry Battery

Old 01-15-22, 10:04 AM
  #26  
SturmeyArcher22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post

Hello all. I wanted to post these two pics of the bike bag I found on the 1948 Raleigh. Would this have been a raleigh bike bag, or just a bike bag perhaps sold by the bike shop that sold the bike?
SturmeyArcher22 is offline  
Old 01-15-22, 10:05 AM
  #27  
SturmeyArcher22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
SturmeyArcher22 is offline  
Old 01-15-22, 10:11 AM
  #28  
SturmeyArcher22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post

I found this tool in the bike bag, does anyone recognise it?
SturmeyArcher22 is offline  
Old 01-15-22, 12:54 PM
  #29  
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 9,300

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2668 Post(s)
Liked 837 Times in 684 Posts
Some Raleigh three speed bikes came with a bike bag and wrench decades ago. So, those could be Raleigh.

The hex holes in the wrench probably fit the axle nuts.

The bottom bracket would be cup and cone, the curved end of the wrench would be for that. And if you have no clue what that sentence said, that is bike lingo. The bearings inside the frame where the crank arms attach, that curved part of the wrench would be for the left side loosening or tightening the lock nut on those bearings.

I have a wrench like that somewhere in my tool collection, can't remember the last time I used it.

I mentioned in a previous post that you probably will need an adjustable wrench for everything because the nuts and bolts are not SAE or metric, but that wrench should work on some of them.
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 03-09-22, 09:41 AM
  #30  
SturmeyArcher22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
I have a quick question about hub and bearing grease. What grease is recommended for an old Raleigh?
SturmeyArcher22 is offline  
Old 03-09-22, 12:18 PM
  #31  
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 9,300

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2668 Post(s)
Liked 837 Times in 684 Posts
There probably is a small place in the rear hub shell where you can add oil. I would add about half a dozen drops. Probably no need to add more, that would dissolve some of the hardened grease and with use is should work through. Use the thinest oil you have.

Front hub, just about any grease would work. I would use Phil bike grease because I have a couple tubes of that, but if I did not have any bike specific grease, car grease gun grease would work fine too. Some of the old Raleighs did not have locknuts on the front hubs. If that is what you have, that simplifies it but it also complicates it as every time you put the wheel into the fork you have to check bearing adjustment.

Same grease for bottom bracket and headset.

Headset probably has dozens of individual ball bearings that could easily get lost. Might be best to just add a drop or two of oil on the headset and avoid disassembly.

You probably can't open up the bottom bracket, as the cotter pins in the crankarms are likely hard to get out without damage, and you would probably have a lot of trouble getting replacement cotter pins. So, if you were to remove the chain so that the crank can spin freely, you could give it a spin and see if it has any gritty feel or cruching noise or not. If it spins freely, I would just add a couple drops of oil to each side where the spindle goes into the cups. If it has any gritty feel or scratchy noises, bottom bracket needs work. You might be best off finding a bike mechanic that has been around for a while to be able to disassemble, clean, grease, and assemble. Might need some good penetrating oil on some of the parts.

If you remove a wheel, you probably have already figured out that with rod brakes, that is a complicated process. If you have not worked on a rod brake bike before, it might be a good idea to take a photo before you disassemble anything, or maybe several photos from different angles.

I think that most bike shops will have never worked on a bike with rod brakes before and probably never worked on a cottered crankset either. Raleigh might have been the last holdout on that technology until the 70s. So, do not be surprised if some shops refuse and do not even have any suggestions on where to try to get help.

Good luck.

Yellow Jersey in Wisconsin might have some parts lying around if you need any parts, they used to sell a bike they imported from India that used rod brakes. I do not know if they still are in business or not, they moved about a decade ago and I have had no contact with them since. But their website still works.
Yellow Jersey, Ltd., Arlington WI USA Everything Cycling Since 1 April, 1971!

Some of the people on this other forum might have some input on this too.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 03-09-22, 10:41 PM
  #32  
VegasTriker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sin City, Nevada
Posts: 2,630

Bikes: Catrike 700, Greenspeed GTO trike, , Linear LWB recumbent, Haluzak Horizon SWB recumbent, Balance 450 MTB, Cannondale SM800 Beast of the East

Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 458 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 159 Times in 123 Posts
You need to clean and re-lubricate all bearings

Any bike this old probably needs to have all of the greased bearings cleaned and re-greased. I've fixed up many bikes far newer than this one where the grease had gotten so hard it no longer served any purpose. There is a tool that will remove the cotter on a cottered crank without damaging the cotter. However since cottered cranks went out of favor in the early 1970s it is unlikely that any newer bike shops would have the tool. It is interesting you brought up the Yellow Jersey bike shop. I know they had this tool because I used it when I worked in the shop when it first opened as a bike co-op in Madison in the early 1970s. There is one person who was still with the store through the three locations it occupied. His name is Andy Muzi and when the bike shop changed from a co-op to a regular store he became the CO of the organization. He knows a heck of a lot about old bikes and would be a good person to contact with questions you may have.
VegasTriker is offline  
Old 03-10-22, 07:44 AM
  #33  
Tourist in MSN
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 9,300

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2668 Post(s)
Liked 837 Times in 684 Posts
Originally Posted by VegasTriker View Post
... It is interesting you brought up the Yellow Jersey bike shop. I know they had this tool because I used it when I worked in the shop when it first opened as a bike co-op in Madison in the early 1970s. There is one person who was still with the store through the three locations it occupied. His name is Andy Muzi and when the bike shop changed from a co-op to a regular store he became the CO of the organization. He knows a heck of a lot about old bikes and would be a good person to contact with questions you may have.
I moved to Madison in 1988, am largely clueless about bike shop history before that date. I used to buy spokes at Yellow Jersey, they had a spoke cutter so I could bring in my rim, hub, tell them how many cross and they would cut my spokes for me. Cost less than buying spokes at any other store. And they did the measurements and calculations to figure out what length I needed too.

But they moved, so starting with a bike I built up in 2013, I had to do the measurements, buy spokes on line, etc.

They were a bit hit and miss for quality a bit over a decade ago. I had foot surgery. I was saving up projects to do while off my feet, one project was building up a set of wheels for my folder. Bought the spokes from them ahead of time. While immobilized, I started to build the wheels and that is when I learned that their mechanic was not very careful at what he was doing, the threading on almost all the spokes was not good enough to thread nipples onto them. I was really angry at them for that. When I was semi-mobile later had to go to the store, on crutches, to get them to do it right.

But, if you need parts for an old bike, I would still highly recommend them as they might have them.
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 04-03-22, 03:49 PM
  #34  
SturmeyArcher22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Hello again,
My new question is this, my handlebar grips are dry rotted and I would like to replace them, the originals have John Bull No, 29 stamped into them, where can I find something that is similar? Thank you for your thoughts
SturmeyArcher22 is offline  
Old 04-06-22, 01:33 AM
  #35  
gilesa
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 88
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 9 Posts
Two suggestions: start a new thread on "Classic and Vintage", as you are now into general maintenance; have a look on UK Ebay.
gilesa is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.