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Clunker

Old 09-17-21, 07:54 AM
  #26  
shelgame
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Took the frame out of the stand and weighed it this morning. 6.4lb before filing (not that that will take much weight off). Not 'lightweight', but much lighter than the donor frame at ~10lbs.

Also put it back in the jig to check the alignment and it fit almost perfectly. The HT post had to be moved back ~2mm to fit. But, the HT angle is still good (measured at 70.8deg from 71 as laid out). BB post and rear dropouts were perfect. The dropouts closed up maybe 1mm.
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Old 09-25-21, 04:40 PM
  #27  
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Filing fillets today. Rough cut is mostly done. Still need some work around the seat tube gusset. It's a tough junction to get into.




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Old 09-27-21, 05:16 PM
  #28  
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Been looking for handlebars for this bike without much luck finding what I really want. They're out there - just out of stock right now.
I do have ~6' of 7/8 0.035w 4130. I think Might try to make my own bullmoose bars. Anyone else ever build a set? Trying to think about how to jig it up...

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Old 09-28-21, 02:17 AM
  #29  
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Good idea! Have never made a whole handlebar but did make, or rather convert, this stem.

The main thing with fixturing is you want your handlebar to be level. Because it's quite long any small errors will be magnified.

I put the handlebar into the stem and just perched it on the table with a few magnets and things while getting a couple of tacks on. With the bar in place it's easy to see and measure the gaps right at the ends. If necessary it can be bent a small amount between tacking and welding, although I didn't need to do that.

With your design I would attach the v shaped bit first, just completely flat on the table, and then add the bit that goes over the steerer last since now you can check for level across the whole length.
​​​
https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuil...onversion.html
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Old 09-28-21, 05:36 AM
  #30  
shelgame
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Here's what I came up with.

Need to make a bending jig to bend the bar. I really wanted a double-bend, but as guy153 mentioned, it's tough to keep the whole bar straight; much less to get both bends in-plane and keep it flat. So, I went with a single bend for simplicity.

Still not 100% sure how I'm going to jig this up, but I have an idea. I want to finish up the fillets on the frame this week. Then maybe I can get to this bar this weekend.

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Old 09-28-21, 08:30 AM
  #31  
unterhausen
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It seems like you could build your handlebars combining that design with the luv handles design https://www.cyclemonkey.com/blog/mor...dle-handlebars
Center piece straight and the swept back pieces are separate.
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Old 09-28-21, 10:07 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
It seems like you could build your handlebars combining that design with the luv handles design https://www.cyclemonkey.com/blog/mor...dle-handlebars
Center piece straight and the swept back pieces are separate.
I like that bar design! Quite tempted to make some custom bars myself.
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Old 09-28-21, 11:30 AM
  #33  
shelgame
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
It seems like you could build your handlebars combining that design with the luv handles design https://www.cyclemonkey.com/blog/mor...dle-handlebars
Center piece straight and the swept back pieces are separate.
I guess that would give the same effect - but with using a stem. It would also be more adjustable.

But, I've kind of sold myself on the bullmoose.
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Old 09-28-21, 12:03 PM
  #34  
unterhausen
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What I meant was you could make a 3 piece bullmoose bar. Okay, 6 piece if you include the stem.
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Old 10-02-21, 12:53 PM
  #35  
shelgame
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Handlebar bender fail!

I made this jig up (based on dsaul's post in this thread) to bend the bar for the bullmoose, and it won't do it. I just pulled it off the bench. Might try again with more stout mounting. 7/8" x 0.035 4130 is pretty tough stuff.


Last edited by shelgame; 10-03-21 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 10-02-21, 11:22 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by shelgame View Post
Handlebar bender fail!

I made this jig up 9based on dsaul's post in this thread) to bend the bar for the bullmoose, and it won't do it. I just pulled it off the bench. Might try again with more stout mounting. 7/8" x 0.035 4130 is pretty tough stuff.

Iíve made similar bends in ironwork by gradually heating the piece. Handrails for stairs.

I made a big arch by tacking the piece to my layout scribe on a fab table. Tack bend with heat. Repeat over and over.

I made all the countertop supports in the dorms at CSUF 11 years ago. I worked off the drawings the sub gave me. Later the general came back with a template where they wanted me to open up a part of the angle iron for the sink pan. The template was plywood and I worked a cutting torch right next to it. A lot of smoke and I had a water squirt fire extinguisher next to meÖ but the plywood didnít catch fire.

Hopefully those ideas help.
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Old 10-03-21, 08:27 AM
  #37  
shelgame
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Originally Posted by SkinGriz View Post
Iíve made similar bends in ironwork by gradually heating the piece. Handrails for stairs.

I made a big arch by tacking the piece to my layout scribe on a fab table. Tack bend with heat. Repeat over and over.

I made all the countertop supports in the dorms at CSUF 11 years ago. I worked off the drawings the sub gave me. Later the general came back with a template where they wanted me to open up a part of the angle iron for the sink pan. The template was plywood and I worked a cutting torch right next to it. A lot of smoke and I had a water squirt fire extinguisher next to meÖ but the plywood didnít catch fire.

Hopefully those ideas help.
Thanks. But, this is thin wall 4130 cromo. And, it's what will support half my body when riding. I'm a little wary of anything that will significantly reduce it's overall strength. I know brazing is heating, too. But, it's fairly localized to the brazing area (plus you build up material around the joint; increasing the overall strength). Heating up a large portion of the tube to red-hot seems like a bad idea. At one point in my engineering career, I could have told you off the top of my head what all it would do to the steel, but I'd have to look it up these days. At the minimum, I know the heat treating would be gone.

If this was 0.049" wall mild steel, it would not be as much a concern to heat.

I'm going to mount this thing better (IE, bigger bolts); and try to set it up so that I'm pushing down to bend rather than up. See if I can't get the bar bent.
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Old 10-03-21, 09:06 AM
  #38  
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Even if it isn't heat-treated you're still probably losing some cold working. If it is heat-treated though it might not be a good idea to try to bend it cold. Might be preferable to heat it.

But I think heating it would probably be OK especially as the bend is inboard of those two triangulation links in your design. A last resort option maybe.
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Old 10-03-21, 12:50 PM
  #39  
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I gave up on the breaker arm and just tried to muscle it over. That worked! It's not quite the 20deg sweepback I wanted. More like 15. But, I think it'll work. Pics after I start cutting and jigging...
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Old 10-04-21, 04:40 PM
  #40  
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Fillets are done! (Are they ever really done, until the paint is on?)





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Old 10-11-21, 08:50 AM
  #41  
Devin Rickey
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This is a super cool build! Thanks for sharing! I had a feeling the holes in the front of the headtube were for internal routing...
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Old 10-14-21, 02:19 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by shelgame View Post
Handlebar bender fail!

I made this jig up (based on dsaul's post in this thread) to bend the bar for the bullmoose, and it won't do it. I just pulled it off the bench. Might try again with more stout mounting. 7/8" x 0.035 4130 is pretty tough stuff.


Glad I found this thread. I also want to make a clunker frame similar to my DX that I have posted on this forum but with modern tubing and components. I too want to build a bullmoose bar first. This is my first foray in brazing other than rack mounts and brake bosses so I thought the bar would be good practice. Below is the apparatus I designed to bend the tube. Two pieces of 1x6 pine screwed together with a 7/8 channel routed down the middle of the curve. I used a 26 in wheel rim as my template for the curve but wish I would have gone a tad bigger. For the two blocks on the ends I drilled a 7/8 hole in a piece of treated pine then cut it in half. Screwed it all to the garage door of my workshop. I greased everything good and operated the jack. Worked like a charm. The tubing is .058 7/8in 4130.



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Old 11-07-21, 04:51 PM
  #43  
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Changed my mind about the handlebar. I found these:



Bike is almost all assembled. Waiting for a derailleur cable (should be here tomorrow). Then I'll post the 'done' pics...
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Old 11-11-21, 10:10 AM
  #44  
shelgame
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"Finished" pics...







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Old 11-11-21, 05:29 PM
  #45  
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Nice!!
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Old 11-11-21, 08:15 PM
  #46  
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Your creativity and engineering are just off the charts. Just brilliant!! Incredible job!
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Old 11-12-21, 09:25 AM
  #47  
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Beautiful work! How does it ride?
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Old 11-12-21, 12:49 PM
  #48  
shelgame
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Originally Posted by sdodd View Post
Beautiful work! How does it ride?
I only had enough time to ride it up and down the block a bit yesterday morning. Then it got cold and rainy. But, it felt good for that tenth of a mile, lol. Hopefully we get better weather again before winter hits in full...

The handlebars feel really nice at the grips. The barends I put on are actually too far out for me. I'll most likely be taking those off.
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