canyoneagle

Any tips/tricks/pitfalls to share before I break this matchbox apart?

canyoneagle

Looks like basic refurbishment is sufficient

canyoneagle

RD time....

soaking pulleys.

canyoneagle

Ready for action

Sir_Name 

Gorgeous, looking forward to more. Enjoy, and don’t skimp on the pics please!

canyoneagle

😎

doing what I can.

currently working on removing the crank to assess the BB.

cotter ready. Just need to set a base to avoid stress on the frame.

canyoneagle

46/51 chainrings

canyoneagle

I’d like to replace the cotter pins.
any thoughts on sources?

beech333

I imagine you can find some on Ebay.

Maybe Francophile. I think I saw a post that he had a ton of them, but not sure what sizes.

There is also BikeSmithDesign. I think he was selling them a few years ago.

BTW, I would make sure you have a few spares. The first one I installed broke on the first ride. I'll keep a spare in my bag from now on.

canyoneagle

Great recommendations! Thank you.

canyoneagle

Rear dropout alignment is good




There is a slight crimp in the downtube. Not sure if this will need to be addressed/corrected. Thoughts?

canyoneagle

Drive side BB looks good.
still trying to get the NDS cotter out....

merziac

I would encourage you to sideline that clamp, it is not stout enough and never was. That being said, I am not sure what to do/use from here. Any body you know have an air hammer? I would make a backstop out of some plate aluminum or steel to go in between the arm and the BB so you can get after it without damaging anything else more. You need a better backstop for the arm and pin, maybe an impact socket and aluminum washer to protect the arm in a vise, then cut off the crooked thread part and use an air hammer or stout punch. Its going to take a serious, straight, short, sharp whack to knock it loose at this point. You could also look up the Pitman arm puller hack or find a Bikesmith cotter tool. At any rate, I would stop where your at, the cotter is being jammed even more with every misguided force.

canyoneagle

merziac you’re not joking. That pin ain’t moving.

I was able to remove the NDS BB cup, so the spindle/crank are out.

Taking my time on this one....

1 Lugnut

Could you not:
1 hack saw off the mushroomed tip,
2 soak it for a few days; wd40, liquid wrench, pb blaster...etc
3 clamp tight in vice (I glued leather strips to mine)
4 try pounding it out w/ good drift

merziac

You're over halfway there then, whatever you do make sure you have a softer backstop for the arm, you should be able to over power it at the vise now.

Patience is key.

canyoneagle

Yup!
I've drilled the threaded portion to get it out of the way, and am soaking the pin. I've sent an e-mail to Bikesmith Design to get replacement cotters and a press. The vintage Park presses are double what his press sells for.

On another note, I'm concerned about the crimp in the down tube (just above where the shifters will mount). I've felt it, and the deformation is apparent for about 2/3 of the circumference. No cracks are apparent, so (in theory) it may be fine.
Do I need to consider replacing the down tube, or should I build and ride it before deciding?

From what I can tell, this frame is relatively free of rust - only slight oxidation of the surface here and there.

I'd be interested in treating the frame - open to suggestions for solvents to get the insides in good order. Again, mild oxidation seems to be the status - no obvious rust.

Narhay

I would make an oxalic acid bath for it, then polish and wax. I'll find the link for it.

Here it is

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...a-bathtub.html

canyoneagle

Thank you!

merziac

@canyoneagle

There will surely be other opinions, I would find a proper frame builder and see if they think it could be rolled out or filled and smoothed. I don't think there is any danger here, I may be wrong but replacing the tube would be a very last resort for me. I would build it up and see how it rides as is and go from there.

canyoneagle

Cleaning in progress...

Really beautiful frame.

refurbished rear screws back in place, mild wire brush/000 steel wool plus discretionary focused cleaning...

iab

First, is that a tubing stamp on the seat tube just above the BB?

Also, fyi, in case you still only have the one bar plug - https://www.ebay.it/itm/Frejus-eroic...sAAOSws5xgVPF1

juvela

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had been meaning to post on this prior to your query...

replacement wedgebolts from a mechanical perspective are easy

chainset takes 9.0mm diameter pins with a "medium" cut

no problem to locate

from a historical/restoration perspective it is another matter

wedgebolts on fine italian machines such at this of the era were very nicely finished
they were highly polished before chrome plating
the very finest ones exhibit counterbored heads
nuts are of a two-piece design
anodised alloy discs are crimped into the top of a false-acorn turning it into an acorn
the most common colour for the anodsing is blue, red can also be encountered
the discs sometimes show a letter corresponding to the marque of the cycle

this image courtesy of the condorino.com site shows a counterbored wedgebolt on a Legnano Gran Premio of 1958, chainset is Way-Assauto -



locating crank cotters of this calibre in good nick may be a bit of a challenge...

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bottom bracket fittings -

here is a high quality Magistroni set from this era; image courtesy of condorino.com



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pedals -

evidently not included with your purchase?

since chainset is Magistroni it is likely that pedals would have been from Noli-Cattaneo, Sheffield brand

one plausible model would be Sprint ref. 673:





Bozzi also made extensive use of Way-Assauto pedals, these are most commonly encountered paired with W-A chainsets

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tubing -

credit the sharp eye of iab

here is a clearer view of the Falck emblem:


-----

iab

Actually, that high quality Magistroni set, the image is courtesy of me. You're welcome.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/681231...7628395983637/

iab

I believe, and certainly not certain about it, that Frejus used a company called Ucco out of Torino as a pedal supplier. Not to say Frejus or any other manufacturer for that matter, relied on any one supplier. And supply chains certainly changed after the war. But while production was in Torino, makes sense to use Torinese suppliers.

Pedal from a 1948 Frejus Sport I once owned. You can see the Frejus stamp.

1948 Frejus 031 by iabisdb, on Flickr


Nearly identical, no ribbing on the dust cap, NIB Ucco Torino pedals I once owned.

Ucco Torino Pedals 1 by iabisdb, on Flickr