Masonchat

HiSo I have trek FX 2 disc with nearly a year very good bike imo (having said that I haven't too much to reference it off)

I had trek FX 7.2 previous which apart from disc brakes was pretty much as good.

I got the itch to upgrade and balancing price etc ended up with giant fastroad sl 1

Ive had few rides on it and I can't really say I'm blown away.

​​​​​​It does come in light for the money 9.8kg , does have carbon fork and 105 drivetrain , comparing to sl3 it would appear 380 euro pays for the 105 over Claris ( weather those upgrades matter to a leisurely cyclists like me , probably not)

The bike does feel a bit sportier , but feels faster than it is , if GPS is correct , and probably that little bit smoother.

But looking at stats from trek FX 2 , the trek seems to be the faster bike some how.

Just wondering, does anyone else have the giant fastroad sl 1, if so what you think ,

Personally if FX 2 is anything thing to judge by, my thinking would be if you put 105 on trek FX 3 be better bike than the giant .

Just interested in other , more experienced riders views, thanks

Sardines

When you say "faster", do you mean easier acceleration? Cos if I'm not wrong the FX3 is a 40T and the '21 FX2 is 3x 48/38/28 crank, and the Giant is 50/34? On the top end, there is no way either will have faster top speed. The FRSL1 is lighter, better geared for speed, so it shouldn't be slower in any way. Maybe you are just not accustomed to the gearing choice? Going from 3x9 to 2x10 can sometimes leave you in the wrong gear a lot. Or it could be a grippy tire thing. I know when I switched to the GP5000U and Marathon Supreme OneStars, most other tires feel slow and not grippy.

Masonchat

Yeah I agree , it's lighter and geared for higher top speed ,
And you must be right , it must be me with the gearing ,

I could never reach top speed on either bike , but the cycles I have done on fsl1 on routes I've done numerous times the data would suggest I hit higher speeds more consistently on trek , I agree it doesn't make sense , I just expected if anything for it to be other way around, it maybe is my gearing

Sardines

Well I have to say when I change my gearing to a smaller larger rear cog on my Pinions, I occasionally go by number of clicks vs actually feel of the pedal when I'm watching out for traffic etc, out of habit, so I end up pedaling in a lower gear for longer. And it isn't just higher speeds but average speeds. Once I went to a Pinion, my average speed went up 1+ mph, even though my max speed was around the same, cos I calculated the gearing that way. However, the fastest upgrade I did was going to very fast tires. That shaved minutes off my commute.

pinsonp2 

Is the fit the same on both bikes?

Masonchat

The geometry is a little different apparently , but I would say not really noticeable, be heading out on it again today good day for it see how it goes

Masonchat

well this bike is starting to really boil my pi## , had another cycle , beautiful day here in Ireland , was really enjoying the cycle and thought I'd be posting a positive post.

There is something about the bike I love, it's definitely more aggressive geometry , I find myself constantly wanting to push myself when I ride it and end up cycling further than I intendedAll was well until a spoke broke , at least I was close to home but not what you expect from a new bike really is it.

First spoke I've ever had break in 5 years of cycling , the spokes fell very flimsy when compared to the trek which I did when I got home .

​​​​​I'm paranoid now , are the wheels that bad?
​​​​​​

Sardines

Haha, stuff like that happens. I've done my share of stupid things like bend a CX-Ray with a pannier bag bottom hook! Most of the OE spokes are just generic 14g stainless steel, unless you get to the higher models. I suggest moving to Sapim or Pillar Wing spokes. Or better yet, even upgrade to some Hunt Alloy Aeros.
If your telemetry still shows you being a little slower, check your cadence in certain corners where the FX2 is faster. Should show which gear you're in and indicate under or over gearing.

Masonchat

Masonchat

Sardines, I looked at the hunt aero , are they for rim brakes only , bit pricey at moment anyway after dropping 1300 euro on bike , continental gp5000 tyres coming and GPS comp 🙄, I'll be selling a kidney 😆

Masonchat

If I do upgrade wheels can any one please tell me what specs I'm looking out for , hub size , disc 6 bolt ?? Etc that will work with fsl1 as this data not given by giant and I'm as green as Lettuce with the tech stuff , in case ye couldn't tell already 😄

Sardines

The Hunt Aeros come in disc as well, just go thru their site and look for the Aero 34 or Aero Light alloys. They are UK produced so you should be able to call them to ask about the right wheels for you. They will come with all axle adapters. A savings of 500g will give your bike a new kick in the pants, not to mention the aero benefits. You can also buy the rotors from them as well.

Masonchat

Sardines apparently the giant gx wheels on fsl1 are already sapim spokes according to 99 spokes ??

Sardines

Or you could do what my kid did for her FX6 and find a set of lightly used light Bontrager Paradigm Comp wheels for under $200 as an upgrade. Used wheels are an option, but obviously depending on the quality etc.

Sapim has quite a few grades and I'm pretty sure Giant is too big to break margins and give good quality like the CX bladed range.

Masonchat

Sardines I dropped the hammer on the hunt aero light 🙈 and 6 bolt adaptor , will the rotary from my stock wheels be transferable ?? And thanks for the point in the hunt direction, I know they are expensive , but at least I'll have good light wheels with good bearings and got lifetime cover for 50 euro so , look for positives😆

Would the stock wheelset have any sell on value

Sardines

Well congratulations! Personally I'd repair the wheel and keep it as a spare, if you have the space. But it really depends on where you are and what the market is for used bike parts for value.
I would just buy new rotors and pads and break them in. Centerlocks are better and the adapter adds weight, so I'd make the switch. Make sure they are trued as well. Enjoy!

Masonchat

Thanks , and help ha .
Noob in trouble again so , ok so my current rotors I think front is 160mm 6 bolt and rear is 140mm 6 bolt
If I'm making switch to centre lock what rotors would I be ordering , do the wheels not come trued and would my current pads not do as hardly used yet ? Sorry for all the questions

Masonchat

And would rotors still line up with breaks in either case ?

Sardines

I'd just order the rims with the rotors installed by Hunt. Just the cheapest Shimanos Icetech will work fine. I would go with 160mm all round, and don't forget to get a bracket for your rear caliper to raise it up to fit the 160mm. I would get better pads as well while you're at it. You should be able to get this from your LBS, when they install the stuff. I assume you won't be doing this yourself?
I would even go as far as to go tubeless with your new wheels.

Masonchat

Hi sardines , wheels arrived but was confusion in the order and instead of quick release set up the wheels came set up for 12mm threw axel.
Now hunt say no problem they can send out adaptors for the quick release and wheels be fine
But is that ok /acceptable ? Would wheels ride the same or should I return them at Futher cost and delay ??

Sardines

It's fine. Same width, just how it attaches to the bike. Enjoy and post some pics.

Masonchat

Will do , really looking forward to having them sorted , they are lovely wheels ,

Sardines

Btw, did you solve your speed issues?

Masonchat

Well I haven't riden it since spoke went , so I haven't but I've decided it's not a big thing , I really enjoy riding the bike which is the main thing I suppose.
I tend to go further than planned when riding it and do feel it is more energy efficient

​​​​​​Could well be gearing issue as you said , few more rides might tell a lot .

Really looking forward to getting out on it with new wheels and tyres

Sardines

I would fix that spoke. It's simple to do and cheap to true the wheels. Always nice to have spare wheel to keep riding when things like spokes or tires go.