the sci guy 

So I was constantly having to reset my headset after every day or riding and I finally just pulled the whole thing apart and when I did I found the spacer (the one with the little tooth that sits in the groove on the back of the threaded steerer) was jammed into the threads and stuck in place - so every time I tried to tighten or loosen the headset it wasn’t really doing what it should - and probably was making the jam worse.

My question is what do I do about these threads on the steerer. It’s my daily commuter and it’s an ‘84 Raleigh Sportif. See pics.

should I just try to swap around the order of the spacers on the steerer so the notch engages further down and just screw them locknut down over the busted threads?

70sSanO

I’d clean the steerer threads and remove the notch from the spacer.

The keyway and keyed washer is nice to have but not necessary. You’ll need to use 2 wrenches to adjust, but not any different than adjusting cup/cone hubs.

John

Moe Zhoost

You can clean those threads up with a file if you're careful. Better to run a die to reshape the threads, though. A decent shop or co-op should have the proper tool. The tabbed washer will re-damage the threads if installed in the same position. If you're lucky enough to have enough stem to require an additional spacer, I'd swap them. Otherwise, use a non-tabbed spacer as previously suggested.

UnCruel 

They aren't cheap, but Park Tool sells thread cutting/chasing dies specifically for forks. There are also hand files made specifically for repairing threads.

70sSanO

Keep in mind that you are only cleaning the threads for the upper cup; which you have already removed. Check the cup threads to make sure they are not damaged.

The locknut won’t thread down to that section.

John

FBinNY 

No need to buy any special tools, or fix the threads. The headset cup has already chased the them back to form when you removed it and will improve them slightly when you replace it.

File the tab off and use the washer and you're good to go, except that IME, headsets without a key washer tend to loosen a bit more frequently.

Either live with that if it's not too annoying or consider adding a nylon thread locker to help the headset stay put.

the sci guy 

Thanks for the input y’all. I’ll have at it this weekend and see what I can do. I’ve got extra spacers and even an extra keyed spacer too, though this one doesn’t look damaged. Will report back!

JohnDThompson 

The damage doesn't look too bad. If @FBinNY's suggestion to chase the threads using the threaded cup doesn't work, a thread file should be able to clean it up enough for the cup to thread on properly.

It's much worse if the threads are damaged over the entire circumference of the steer tube, as can happen from riding with a too loose adjustment.

_ForceD_

I think most LBSs have the die to chase those threads. I had it done once. I think they charged me $25 (US) to do it.

Dan

FBinNY 

One has to consider a very important difference between chasing and cutting.

Cutting tools like files and thread dies REMOVE metal, while chasing flows metal back to the needed profile.

If the cup threads down into position, you cannot improve things with a cutting tool.

macstuff 

As mentioned above. I vote the same.
Filing the tooth off the register washer will solve the problem. The threads arent messed up enough to matter.
with the tooth off the washer you may need to hold the cup still with a Channel lock plier when tightening the top nut, but that's the game of age and mechanics.
Kudos for keeping an old bike going.

smd4

Please keep channel lock pliers as far away from your bike as possible. There are very few, if any, applications for such a barbaric tool in bike repair/maintenance.

Purchase if you don’t already have, and use, the correct wrench.

randyjawa 

This, actually is a common problem. The tab spacer washer slips and damages the threads, as seen in the OP's picture. The fix is easy and not time consuming...

Get a small triangular smooth file and, carefully, clean up the burred areas. File a bit and then test your nut to see if it threads smoothly. Repeat until it does thread smoothly. Now, how to, hopefully, prevent it from causing damage again, when you assemble and tighten the head set.

To help prevent the tab washer from spinning into the threads, grease both sides and don't be cheap with the grease. With luck, the grease will allow the lock nut to turn/tighten without causing the tab washer to want to move with the nut. Best of luck.

zandoval 

Had the same problem on an old UNIVEGA. Used a thin hack saw blade to clean up the threads. Cleaned everything off and put in a spacer without the tab. I did end up using Lock Tight to keep the set from loosing up latter on but that was overkill. I have never had a problem getting a head set to release and that's why I used the lock Tight.

By the way, I don't use Tabed Spacers anymore just for this reason...

JohnDThompson 

Best bicycle-use of a slip-jaw pliers is to modify it into a lockring pliers:


instructables.com/DIY-Lockring-Pliers/

the sci guy 

So all the 1" spacers I had were all tabbed so at first I tried flip-flopping the location of the 2 already on there, but the threads on the fork are just too soft/worn down at this point because I watched the tab on that spacer start to dig in in the new spot too.

SO, in the end, I just ended up taking that spacer out, keeping only the regular 3mm one, and just screwing down the locknut on that so there's no longer a tabbed spacer on there. I went to 2 shops today too to see if anyone had any 1" normal spacers, but came up empty so it is what it is.

We'll see how it goes after a few commutes this week.

the sci guy 

after i cleaned the fork was able to see that the tab had done a lot more damage than I thought originally.

FBinNY 

As long as the streerer is short enough for the locknut to do its job, all is OK. Otherwise, you'll need to file the tab of your spacer and use that.

FWIW - fork damage isn't usually bad luck. It's usually the result of a lazy mechanic. Finding the headset a hair tight, it's tempting to grab the lower cup and force it back a few degrees. I suspect that everyone who's worked on on enough headsets has done this at least once.

JohnDThompson 

It's still ok. The damage does not extend the full circumference of the steer tube, and does not affect where the threaded cup is likely to engage.

cyccommute 

A somewhat radical option would be these headset washers from Herse Cycles. It would require flattening the threads on one side of the fork but it would keep the washer from twisting.

zandoval 

Bravo... Why did I not think of this... Sheeesh...

macstuff 

....correct.
A person should know how to use and own correct tools for the jobs they perform. The call of the professional.
These same people, through their experience can sometimes even be trusted to use a small cabinet screwdriver to turn that Phillips head screw in a pinch, or maybe to be careful enough not to scratch things up when using a tool that may work but has the threat of damage or blood. Being a mechanical professional, I often consider people think and act like I do in relation to proper mechanical practice. I've also noticed that people mostly don't.
Along this same line, consider the tools used on and supplied with early bicycles. Spanners or "monkey wrenches" were clumsy, heavy and awkward. One wrench intended for most of the bike.
If someone doesn't have a 30+mm or large crescent wrench to fit, a common channel lock plier and convenient rag will do in a pinch. It is merely being used to hold the cup still. Many, if not most head cups are rounded and dont have a flat side to grasp as they were never intended to be grasped. In this case, considering using washers with no tooth being used as a push down, if the cone is not held, it may spin a bit creating a too tight condition.
No toothed washer, hold the cup while tightening the top nut. If the cup has no flat and wants to turn, use what you use and live with the consequences.
All of this we know.

What we dont know is the status of everyone else's tool box or how much money they have for new tools. A slip joint plier is a common tool most people have.
So in short...
Thank you for your pretentious negativity.
Much more palatable than a barbaric and commonly useful tool.
I'm just sorry you haven't yet learned how to properly use one.
With care as to the results.

Kontact 

Disagree. Burred threads make it difficult to accurately adjust a bearing. The cutting tool removes the burrs without damaging the rest.

Even cutting a slot in a screw or nut will clean up damaged threads far better than just screwing it all back together.