FrontShocks

As much as I'd like to spend 60-200$ on a truing stand I'd very much appreciate some ideas on how to do this on a budget. I've heard that you can use zip-ties, however this seems to do more harm to the wheel.

JohnDThompson 

How would the zip-tie harm the wheel? You attach them to the frame, and use the "tails" as indicators in the same manner as the calipers on a truing stand. When you're done, you just snip them off.

Or, you can use the brake pads (assuming you don't have disc or drum brakes) in the same manner.

jgcycle

There's plans on the internet to make one out of 3/4" plywood. I did (haha), but it works pretty good.
The tough part is getting something (out of metal) that the axle sits in, and even tougher to clamp it in (I don't).
Mine barely sits in metal stampings that have the cutout, so i just need to spin gingerly. It works.

FrontShocks

Using the zip-ties hasn't brought me much luck, maybe I just don't have the mechanic's eye for it but it seemed make the vertical alignment worse. However, brake pads seem like a better idea.

FrontShocks

Best idea I've heard actually, I'll definitely give it a try.

scott967

I had an old Yakima roof rack where you removed the front wheel and just took off one of the wheel attachments and chuck it in my vice as a stand. I do have a dial indicator with magnetic mount that makes it easy, except for dish.

scott s.
.

FBinNY 

You use another zip tie higher up and extended across over the top edge of the rim. So, you have one for hop, and 2 for wobble (1 per side).

The only other thing you need is a dishing gauge, and can license my 3 cans + 10 quarters design for $1.00/year.

70sSanO

I've used brake pads. Sometimes when I'm having problems seeing it well enough, I open the caliper a little and canter it over so the one pad will hit the out of true spots. Obviously you don't want to twist the brake with enough force to put it out of center when you move it back. You can use the pad for the vertical/radial truing.

John

dayco

I'm certainly no expert but I have an old dial indicator I use similar to a $17 dial indicator at Harbor Freight. (can't post a link, I haven't got 10 posts yet) Make up a mount so you can clamp it to the frame or fork.

HerrKaLeun

I haven't tried out my "truing stand" yet, but here is the $8 truing stand:
- put wheel (without tire) in your bike as usual
- go to hardware store and get a 12" long threaded rod and same size of well-nuts (they have rubber coating to not scratch the rim)
- with velcro attach the rod to the seatstaty right above the rim (assuming you have it in rear) and position the wellnuts so they are centered (need to measure!). This is your reference point and dish also will be correct. The wellnuts have that "lip" and I envision that could be used to true for roundness and lateral trueness.

I thought of buying a cheap stand, but they wiggle around, thought of building none from wood etc. But they also need to be correct and over time may get out of true. Then I got the idea that the bicycle itself is a great stable truing stand. should be more stable than a $200 stand. All I need is to add some adjustable reference points as above. i read about truing, dishing etc. and it seems complex. Truing and dishing at same time sounds easier.

Besides some slight adjustment i never trued a wheel, never built one, never tried my above stand. So there is that.

Retro Grouch 

How wonky is your wheel?

Tweaking a few minor tension differences is one thing. If you've actually somehow bent your rim, that's another story.

Abe_Froman

If you dont have one already, buy a cheap bike trainer off craigslist. They can easily be had for $20. Beer can next to the wheel works great for lateral truing (makes a great scraping sound when they're empty), the steel roller works great for radial truing (makes even more noise).

I've built a few wheels using this...trued to well under 0.5mm variation.

FrontShocks

I actually would have been happier if it was bent, but sadly it's only slightly out of true in some spots.

Retro Grouch 

Easier than you are probably thinking:

With the wheel on your bike, watch where the rim passes between the brake pads. When you find the wonky spot, correct it by adjusting opposing spokes the same (small) amount but in opposite directions. That way your side-to-side adjustments won't affect the up-and down.

Side-to-sde adjustments are easy to do. Up-and down, not so much.

The Quiet One

I bought a Minoura truing stand used on eBay for $8. It's certainly not up to Park Tool standards, but it's adequate for my use.

jimmie65

Great idea. Glad I read this before I sold my bike trainer.

bluehills3149

I've just ordered a cheapo dial indicator from Ebay for the grand sum of $6.25 (they vary in price from $5-$8 shipped). A flexible holder was another $7.
I'm going to use it as a poor-mans truing aid as a dial gauge beats using brake pads or your thumb. I'll report back when it arrives which is probably around christmas if past history buying cheap stuff on ebay is any guide.
And cheapo truing stands can be had for $35 if you want to go low.

fietsbob

I compensated on the bike for a broken spoke on tour with just a spoke wrench,
it was just 1 of 48 spokes, so I just got it straight to go between the brake pads compensating with the other 47..

Gresp15C

I've gone through a succession of homemade truing stands, possibly a false economy. But in my experience as an amateur with about 10 builds under my belt, the two things that I prefer about a nicer stand are: 1) Stiffness, so the stand doesn't flex too much when I'm trying to see what I'm doing. 2) Convenient access to get my hands in with the spoke wrench.

Quick setup would probably be more important for a pro than for an amateur. And I'm perfectly happy doing minor touch-up on the bike. My wheels typically need a look after a few months, but so have new bikes that have come into the fleet.

skinz0506

I also have an old Minoura truing stand. I have done a few truing jobs and it works for me.

FBinNY 

At it's core, a truing stand consists simply of two elements.

1- a place to secure the hub so it won't move as the wheel turns
2- fixed references that can be used to gauge rim deflections as the wheel turns.

EVERYTHING else is fluff.

When I first started truing and building wheels 50 years ago, I used my bike as a stand with dry markers braced against a fork blade or stay, and advanced very slowly until it just touched the moving rim. Then the marks would tell me where the high spot was, and I'd use my thumb to get a sense of the nature of the wobble. I'd correct that, wipe the rim with alcohol and repeat the process, alternating sides and working down to tiny deflections, until I'd get continuous marks through wide sections.

Every once in a while, when working with light flexible rims, I'd go back to the marker method because it recorded the deflections and gave me a better sense of the rim than non-marking feelers.

Better truing stands make the process a bit faster and more convenient, but no matter how costly or well featured, are no different functionally than a stick held in place against a fork blade with a rubber band.

Slightspeed

LBS charged me $10 to true rear wheel and adjust cones. Why bother with it yourself, except for the experience? I'd rather be riding.

sdmc530

$20 per wheel around here. i found a used stand on craigslist for 45$. with practice i can do a pretty good job in 15-20 minutes. a good skill to learn. i try to as much as i can at home.

Slightspeed

I get it. I've just never felt the need personaly. I've had very few problems with wobbly wheels. I'm a road rider with 50+ years of riding. In college I damaged a rim, and rebuilt the wheel myself, but I did have a shop true it for me. I do almost everything else myself, just never developed wheel truing patience. Good luck working it out.

sdmc530

I also should have mentioned that us "Clydes" have more wheel true issues. Just how we roll lol. I do understand how people who can ride light never have issues. I am jealous of them for sure!!