molleraj

Hi all! I am excited to join Bike Forums - this is my second post.

In the past few weeks I have restored my 1969 blue Schwinn Collegiate five-speed and I have been very impressed with the results. I first got this from the bike co-op near UPenn in Philly in 2012 or so for a mere $25. I then got it in riding condition, which just meant replacing brake pads, IIRC, but didn't restore further. This past month I replaced tubes, polished chrome parts with aluminum foil doused in salt water (shockingly effective), and added rear view mirrors, a rear rack, a bike lock mount, smartphone holder, front reflector, chain guard decal, black neoprene saddle cover, and soon a rear fender reflector.

As I posted elsewhere, I recently took this on a ride to Foggy Bottom and back and enjoyed every moment of it. I plan to use the bike for commuting to work (1-2 miles) which should work great as a free bus takes me halfway on busy city streets, stopping at a bike trail that goes the rest of the way. I love the bike very much, mainly because it's durable, easy to fix, has a chain guard and fenders to keep pants from being ruined (or me tripping and falling on my face), and rides nicely (thank you steel, saddle springs, and neoprene for protecting my rear). I love that the original circa 1970 Shimano GT100 derailleur shifts perfectly with just a little lubrication (or without lol).

That said, the bike IS very heavy at 40 lbs. Uphill is doable but not fast (well, on the Capital Crescent I managed 12 mph with stops).

Do I need a second backup bike, possibly for family to share or just for longer rides? Capital Bikeshare (CaBi) is reasonably priced but only for 30 minute rides. Costs quickly jump after 30 minutes to the point a beater bike is comparably priced to regular rides, even with monthly or yearly memberships.

I was thinking an 80s cromoly frame Japanese bike (Nishiki, Miyata, Panasonic, Fuji, etc.). The 80s 3 speed Collegiate and Le Tours look good too. Again, mainly due to weight. There are a surprising number of <$100 American/Japanese/English 60s/70s/80s road and city bikes on DC craigslist.

Any advice, comments, or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Hudson308 

As you found out, the Collegiate is a sturdy but heavy bike. Hundreds of thousands of college students in the 70's likely provided proof of the model's name. With that said, the bike's 40-lb weight becomes an issue when lugging it up any stairs or climbing hills with it. Vintage hybrids like the Trek 700 series or Specialized Crossroads are great commuting bikes that won't provide such strenuous weight training, but prices on those have been climbing. Two lighter Schwinn models from the 80's can usually be found dirt cheap, but they are drop-bar road bikes. Those would be the later Chrome moly examples of the Schwinn Letour and World Sport. These can be quickly adapted to a more upright riding position by swapping out the handlebars, shifters, brake handles and cables. Whatever you decide to shop for, be sure to pay attention to the size frame you need. Over time you can start to recognize this by the amount of space between the top tube and down tube at the back of the head tube. It's not a guaranteed metric, but can allow you to quickly eliminate candidates that are way outside your parameters.

molleraj

Thanks Hudson! I did find Specialized Sirruses for $75 and a Peugeot mixte for $40. I definitely should look for a Trek 700, LeTour, or World Sport.
https : // washingtondc.craigslist.org / nva / bik / d / falls-church-peugeot-21-frame / 7356147202.html
https : // washingtondc.craigslist.org / doc / bik / d / washington-specialized-sirrus / 7357687923.html
https : // washingtondc.craigslist.org / doc / bik / d / washington-hardrock-specialized-mens / 7356195749.html

molleraj

As far as frame size, I will have to check. I am 5'10".

molleraj

Thanks! I really love it like I said. It's DC after all - if it's too far or hilly to go back, I can always use Metro. I am already thinking about doing this before I develop the stamina to do 30+ mile rides. 15-25 mile rides for now.
On the other hand, I may pick up a Raleigh/Rudge 3-speed women's bike for my mom so we can ride together. My dad has a super awesome Cordova road bike he got in the trash and rebuilt.

molleraj

This bike is now getting regular use as a commuter. I use it for my 2.5 mile ride to work. Here are pictures from my DC ride.


All the bike tools at Neal Potter Plaza

Dalecarlia Tunnel and my 69 Schwinn Collegiate

Another view of Rosslyn and the Key Bridge

Georgetown Waterfront Park

Hudson308 

Looks like a comfy commute! That "Sky Blue" (Schwinn name) is one of my favorite colors of theirs.

molleraj

It is, thanks! The steel, seat springs, and seat cushion make it comfy indeed. Agreed - the color is wonderful.

molleraj

One more picture of the bike locked up at work to highlight the new chain guard decal.


Collegiate outside of building 29 where I work

Vintage Schwinn

If your COLLEGIATE is a 1969 model, it is going to be awful in HILL CLIMBING relative to the 1970 model and later models.

Why is this true? Well BECAUSE the 1964 through 1969 models have the 14 - 28 model F freewheel (same as Varsity of seventies and late sixties).
The 1970 and later COLLEGIATE HAVE the NEW FOR 1970, model J (japanese made) 14 -32 freewheel.
The 1970 and later has 37 GEAR for the LOW GEAR (1st gear) where the 1964-1969 models have 45 GEAR for the LOW GEAR (1st gear) !!!!
*******This is a HUGE DIFFERENCE in Rideability when tackiling hills!! ******************.................................................................................. ........................................
Why didn't they use 32 teeth on the Sixties era Collegiates? BECAUSE NONE OF THE EUROPEAN DERAILLEUR MANUFACTURERS COULD PRODUCE A REAR DERAILLEUR THAT COULD RELIABLY SHIFT ANYTHING WITH THIRTY OR MORE TEETH!! It took the Japanese to accomplish that.
The 1970 COLLEGIATE and the 1970 SUBURBAN 5 Speed were the first Schwinns to feature SHIMANO (Japanese) equipment which Schwinn engineers had Shimano build to their requested specifications.
****This is the reason that 1970 - 1977 COLLEGIATE is a far better and much more desireable bicycle than the 1964-1969 Collegiates. Sure, you perhaps can argue that there are some really great sixties colors, but the inferior Huret Allvit rear derailleur and the model F 14-28 freewheel make the sixties Collegiates inferior by a country mile! You can easily update any sixties era COLLEGIATE by going with a Japanese rear derailleur, and in order to match the quality of the Seventies era Collegiate, you would need to swap the rear wheel with a donor wheel from a 1970 - 1972 COLLEGIATE......................why 1970 - 1972? well because the 1970 model through most of the 1972 model year has the exact matching chrome steel wheel as the sixties era Collegiate with its slightly raised hump-ridge along the middle of the wheel nearest the spokes and valve stem. Late 1972 onward has a wheel with a flat, un-raised portion, other than that the wheels are functionally the same. These wheel styles have specific name terminology that describes their appearance (westrick vs kendrick) or something like that, the actual spellings and names...are close to the wrong names that I attempted to spell out.
Since your 1969 has the GT-100, this indicates that someone upgraded it and ditched the Huret Allvit, or perhaps the bike is 1970 on. You can easily tell if you have the 14-28 or the 14-32, by simply counting the number of teeth on the top row (1st Gear) of your freewheel......IF IT HAS 32, YOU'RE GREAT AND GOOD TO GO but IF IT HAS 28, WHICH I DO IMAGINE THAT IT CURRENTLY HAS (having not viewed a picture, to count the teeth), I'M GUESSING IT ONLY HAS 28 BASED ON YOUR DIFFICULTY NAVIGATING ANY TYPE OF HILL... 32 versus 28 is a huge difference!!! All the Collegiate models have 46 TEETH front chainwheels.
*****the MATH:
teeth on Front is your NUMERATOR
teeth on REAR is your DENOMINATOR

take that result you get when you Divide the Front by the Rear....
TAKE that result and MULTIPLY by 26 TO GET the GEAR number

*** You see that the 37 GEAR number of 1970 & later IS HUGELY BETTER than the 45 GEAR number of 1969, 1968, 1967, 1966, 1965, 1964*****...........................

YOU CAN OF COURSE CHANGE YOUR 14-28 model F freewheel (on 1969 & earlier) to a Freewheel with 32 or perhaps 34 if you can find one that would fit.
OTHER THAN THAT THE 1967 -1969 COLLEGIATE is A FANTASTIC BICYCLE.
The 1966 IS GREAT TOO but the 1967 with the Schwinn single Stik (s) gear shift lever on the stem is significantly better than 1966's lever.
Other than that, 1966 is equal to the 1967-1969.
THE 1964 - 1965 models are not as GOOD as 1966, because in 1966, SCHWINN made the HEADTUBE stronger with thicker walls
thus all 1966 and later Schwinns require a 21.1mm diameter stem, and '66 & later stems WILL NOT INTERCHANGE with the '65 & earlier which have the long time general industry standard of 22.2mm diameter stem..........YOU SEE IN '66 the HEADTUBE with thicker walls made it necessary to change to 21.1mm stem diameter.
Yes, all this is splitting hairs and it perhaps makes no difference if you weigh less than 250 pounds and aren't going to try to ride off of the 2nd floor deck of a parking garage on to the street 20 ft below like some deranged Evil Knieval wannabee. Certain folks prefer certain early model Collegiates for their color choices and painted fenders(like Suburbans of seventies)....chrome fenders were the norm, from about '66 onward....................The early '64 and '65 WOMEN'S (step through) has a straight bar that is about parallel to the other........where the 1966 and later has a pronounced curve as it comes toward the seat-tube just above the hangar set(bottom bracket).

You'll also find minor differences in for example RED DOT Eyepoker, vs RED DOT Safety ball end vs GOLD DOT safety ball end etc.......but they are essentially pretty much exactly the same Weinmann Tourist Levers other than that. You'll also see that 1968 will have WEINMANN 810 on the side pull calipers, and for 1969 & later, you will see L.S. 2.8 ...........................they are Exactly the same because you see Schwinn went with an internal Schwinn factory code and measure code instead of Weinmann 810 stamping from 1969 onward. They did this so Schwinn folks on the production line and in shops could quickly see what belonged with what. I will explain what the L.S. 2.8 means if anyone wants to know but for here and now, I don't see the need. (It is an odd code deciphering that isn't at all what you might expect from 2.8......but it is a simple enough code to figure once you know what the two numbers stand for)

COLLEGIATEs are GREAT RIDING BICYCLES. THAT 40 POUNDS OF CHICAGO's FINEST IS NOT SUCH A BIG DEAL TO NAVIGATE HILLS WITH IF YOU HAVE THE GEARING THAT MAKES IT EASY! The Seventies Collegiates did. The wide gear range of the 1970's COLLEGIATE is almost as wide ranging as the Schwinn ten speeds of the seventies, and much better than many 10 speeds of the Sixties.
DID YOU KNOW THAT THE 1970 & Later COLLEGIATE HAS A BETTER HILL CLIMBING LOW GEAR(1st gear) THAN THE seventies VARSITY/CONTINENTAL 10 speeds? Yes it does!! The Varsity-Continental-10spSUBURBAN has 38 GEAR number in the LOW GEAR (39 teeth front and 28 teeth rear)
The 1970 & later COLLEGIATE has 37 GEAR number in the LOW GEAR (46 teeth front and 32 teeth rear)
****Yeah 37 is just marginally better than 38 but it is in fact BETTER!
Now, the 1970 & later SUBURBAN 5 speed HAS THE SAME 14-32 model J freewheel as the COLLEGIATE and the same 46T front BUT DUE TO THE 27"(630mm) versus 26" (597mm) wheels, THE SUBURBAN 5 speed has a 39 GEAR number in LOW GEAR(1st Gear) (46 teeth front and 32 teeth rear).
You see the MATH is Front is NUMERATOR and REAR is DENOMINATOR
Take that "result" and MULTIPLY BY THE "INCHES" Diameter of The Wheel
Thus you'd select (26") for 597mm twentysix and you would select (27") for 630mm Twentyseven
(Hey you can do this with 700C - 622mm wheels too, just use (27") because 622mm is so close to 630mm, and if you've got any other bikes with say 590mm, or 650, 650a, 650b, 650c, 584mm, 571mm, or 559mm cruiser/mountainBike, just USE (26")...............your calculations will be very relevant and comparative among similar bicycles........the math is super simple that JETHRO could sigh-fer it..........yeah it isn't the most super-scientific as tire design and other factors but based on the simple assumptions that is not a major issue, this is fairly useful.
Want to get an good idea on just how far in inches that Your Bike will travel with each revolution of the pedals..........TAKE that GEAR number AND MULTIPLY by Pi
**** Pi = 3.14 ***
You can then take that computation and Divide by 12 to get a more meaningful number of FEET that your bike travels with each pedal revolution.


One other thing that I'll mention is that the 1967 and later COLLEGIATES (through 1977) have the 7881 SCHWINN HANDLEBARS which are in my opinion, the BEST, AND MOST COMFORTABLE Tourist handlebar. SUBURBANS and '67 later BREEZE, SPEEDSTER, and similar variants of the same bike with different names have the 7881. These handlebars are ALL DATED with the year.......examples: 7881-67 for 1967......7881-72 for 1972.....you get the picture.
You might have a differing opinion and prefer other Schwinn bars, or something non-Schwinn........do change to whatever you like the best as comfort is essential and this can be easily changed and changed again if future owner riders like something else.....................ditto for seats, and pedals......etc
DON'T TRY TO MAKE A MUSEUM PIECE! That is just stupid, make it to ride and enjoy!!! There is no significant value to worry about this or that like the folks that collect the kid's bikes (boy's STINGRAY and KRATES etc from about '63 to '73) or the rigid caber folks who'd rather ride a sixty-five year old unsafe Original tire than to replace the tire with a fresh new replacement.......you gotta check out the c.a.b.e. to know what I mean.......great people but like everywhere, you have some that are just too stupid when it comes to that stuff, even though they are otherwise intelligent and sane.........same folks refuse to wear helmets or would rather be dead than get caught riding any girls (step-through) bike....... I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU BUY A NEW HELMET (even a new $10 helmet direct from China is acceptable if it fits and you wear it, but don't really cheap out on a helmet and NEVER BUY A USED Helmet, wally world and tar-jay have perfectly acceptable helmets.........you just need to wear it always.......because you do remember the story about Humpty Dumpty.......well picture a smashed watermelon, and concrete/asphalt impact with your bare skull can yield a similar "Permanently LIGHTS OUT" catastrophe, so don't just think that big SUVs and high traffic roads are the only risks......you think because you don't ride those roads-streets that you're fine without a helmet......................just consider that well an E.R. visit or a trip to the E.R. in an ambulance didn't cost very much in 1975, relatively speaking, but TODAY your OUTTA POCKET and Co-Pays could far exceed the annual salary of a wealthy Beverly Hills California resident in 1975.

Have fun with your Schwinn.
Stay thin, Ride A Schwinn.........that extra ton or two of electroforged goodness, will do you good and at the same time be an enjoyable and extremely durable bicycle to ride!

molleraj

That's good to know, thanks! It is 1969 but October 1969 I think. It has a Shimano GT100 derailleur. Also I always wear a helmet of course.

Edit: I read further. I do need to count the number of first gear teeth haha.

molleraj

I did a quick count and I believe my first gear has 32 teeth. I guess it has been OK for hills...

Vintage Schwinn

Molleraj:
IF YOU WANT A PERFECT SIZE FIT, NEW 41mm RED REFLECTOR, there are some inexpensive ones that are perfect size fit and have an integral threaded stud with nut. THEY WORK GREAT AS REPLACEMENTS on Collegiates and Suburbans THAT HAVE THE ROUND CHROME BEZEL ON THE REAR FENDER BUT IS MISSING THE ORIGINAL RED REFLECTOR. I have replaced about twenty on various Suburbans/Collegiates that had the existing Bezel mount but no Reflector, just like your beautiful BLUE Collegiate is in the picture above. I located these replacements from Chinese(china based) sellers on the bay several years ago after looking for many years for a quality replacement that is the correct size and is also reasonably priced.
THESE ARE BETTER QUALITY THAN THE ORIGINALS and The Integral Stud is Threaded and has a Nut........approximately the same diameter stud such that IT FITS THRU The Existing HOLE, once You Remove your original remaining carriage bolt like stud that has an el-cheapo flat metal piece that is your original Schwinn retaining nut......you'll probably need to grab it with needle nose pliers and rip that old flat metal piece because I'll bet that yes you can turn it like a nut and unthread it somewhat but your stud's threads are likely rusted farther towards the end, such that it may not unscrew all the way off because of 50 years of rust...
OKAY, here is where these 41mm Chinese motorcycle reflectors, NEED MINOR MODIFICATION IN MY OPINION...........You see that in my opinion, that the Chinese Reflector's Integral Stud is perhaps about 4mm TOO LONG for my liking.........I HIGHLY RECOMMEND SAWING OFF APPROX 4mm or so OF LENGTH. Why? Because I believe that you do want adequate clearance between the tire and reflector's stud. YES, you could use it without doing so, but I wouldn't, because if you are going to replace the reflector, you might as well do it in a professional looking way that doesn't look 1/2 azz ! You will have to first securely attach the reflector to a scrap piece of metal that you can clamp in your vise. Something like one of those Simpson Strong-Tie flat pieces that has holes and looks like about a 9 inch ruler. Anything will do, metal scrap or even a thick and sturdy enough paint stirrer stick made of wood........drill hole in it.......bolt the chinese reflector snugly to it.....mount the scrap in the vise such that the chinese reflector's stud can be reduced by 4mm or so in length with a hand hacksaw....etc.........DO NOT TRY TO JUST CLAMP THE REFLECTOR IN THE VISE BECAUSE YOU'LL MUCK IT UP................use a scrap piece to secure the REFLECTOR on to while cutting, so the reflector doesn't get screwed up....................If you have a high speed Dremel cut off wheel, you could maybe hold it your hand, but I still would not, as hell I wouldn't risk my hand/fingers...I'd just securely mount it using some metal or wood scrap piece like I have described, even if using a Dremel..........be safe and smart....as they might tell you at the ER that it is gonna be $112,000 if you wanna re-attach yer finger without much functionality and perhaps about $311,500 if you would like some use of the finger............joking yeah but it isn't that far fetched......so think and use caution and safely use your tools, even if it makes your work take 15 minutes longer.
I DON'T THINK THAT I Have Used This Particular Chinese Vendor on the bay, but this is the exact same part that I have ordered a few times from other Chinese vendors on the bay in past years.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17322514302...UAAOSwlJlarzji

you can also just search " 41mm reflector " ---ON EBAY------ search: all categories
you should see at least a half dozen Chinese china based vendors that have these same exact reflectors
please note that you want the RED ones with the silver outer perimeter as you see.....that look like the original Schwinn reflectors.

I hope that perhaps helps anyone seeking a replacement red reflector for their pre 1974 Collegiate/Suburban with the existing round chrome bezel on the rear fender.

molleraj

Wow, great advice! Thanks for all this information. That would be wonderful to add. Thanks for the bolt cutting advice too.

molleraj

So in more recent news I got hit on the left side while on this bike. A truck started turning left (no turn signal on until entering the intersection) into my path as I crossed the street. Fortunately it was a very low speed (5-10 mph) collision, but I got bruised in four places, the fork bent on the left side, and the frame got two scratches. Sadly I ran away before I could call 911. Today I took a pipe fitting and a piece of PVC pipe and successfully bent the fork back.

I should be thankful I rode a heavy steel bike instead of aluminum, carbon, or lighter steel, or the accident could have been much worse. Also thank God I had a helmet on as I always do.

Anyway, no more street riding, especially in weird 3+1 way intersections with a Do Not Enter sign on one side. Trail, sidewalk, and bus/train from now on.

Hudson308 

WOW glad you're (mostly) OK!!!

molleraj

Thanks! I am so lucky I just got a few bruises. I hurt for two days and now I am just sore. Anyway, avoiding DC streets from now on (except protected bike lanes).

molleraj

I am glad to share that this bike is back in service now! The fork is OK but still needs some Chrysler touch up paint that another user suggested. My dad rode it on the Capital Crescent Trail on Labor Day while I rode the Huffy Touriste.

I noticed before the ride that I could only shift into 4 instead of 5 gears on the Collegiate. My dad adjusted one (governor? retention?) screw a few turns, and voila, five gears. Amazing.

He loved riding it down to the National Mall. We took photos of the Back to the Future DeLorean while there. I'm looking forward to lots more rides on this thing.

molleraj

Velo Mule What is the appropriate DupliColor touch up paint? Thanks!

Velo Mule

Here is the link to the original question:

https://www.bikeforums.net/22180888-post17655.html

teejaywhy

Mine was a drop bar.

molleraj

Whoa, cool! Is that a Huret derailleur?

teejaywhy

Don't know for sure, but pretty sure it was a pre-1970. (thanks to @Vintage Schwinn for the historical info)
- judging by the glasses and hairstyle, I'm thinking ~7th grade, so 1968...
- I had the bike a couple of years prior to riding it in the 1970 TOSRV.

Actually rode that bike in two TOSRVs ! 40 lbs. ugh!

molleraj

About a year since I last posted, I fully overhauled the bike in preparation for selling it. It's quite heavy for me and the nonstandard rim size (ISO 597) is annoying. It's definitely solid and smooth though. Repacking the front hub, rear hub, bottom bracket, and headset bearings with new Red N Tacky grease was not anywhere near as hard as I expected and even quite fun. I also properly tuned up the brakes and derailleur. Pictures soon.

molleraj

And we have pictures!


Drive side view

Close up of chain, chain guard, derailleur, and one piece Ashtabula crank

Cleaning up headset bearings

Headset bottom cup

Fork and stem

Freshly greased front axle

The happy helpful tools for repacking

Front axle bearings before and after cleaning with WD-40

Bottom bracket drive side cup

One piece crank (easy to remove, contrary to my belief) plus cone, jam nut, and caged bearings for either side