Tires for Riding City and some Gravel
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Tires for Riding City and some Gravel
I just picked up my first hybrid bike. It replaces a mountain bike stolen from me a year ago. I made due with my road bike for a while, but also realized that my riding on that mountain bike was mostly just around town with some limited dirt and gravel roads here and there. Single tracks and hardcore riding are a thing of the past.
So, I bought the hybrid knowing I have my road bike when I want to go for longer rides out and about.
Over all the years I've ridden bikes, I never paid much attention to tires usually buying cheap (and spending more money on tubes), so I am a bit of a novice. However, with this hybrid, the tires look to be a bit smooth for the dirty and gravel roads I might use, so I am looking to get myself a nice set of tires that are good enough for casual rides around town (and errands) while allowing me some flexibility to ride the gravel roads I might ride.
The bike is a Marin Larkspur CS2. It comes with Schwalbe Road Plus tires (700 x 40), which look like decent tires from browsing the Schwalbe site. I'm not certain, however, they'd be very good on gravel. I don't really want to get dedicated offroad tires, and from browsing the site, I'm drawn a bit towards the Continental Speed Rides as it seems like they might still do me good for the majority of riding around town while working on gravel when I need them.
Can anyone offer other suggestions? I see from shopping around that 700 x 40 is a bit of an odd size, and I'd probably go downward rather than upward (e.g. 32 to 38 rather than over 40) just because I mostly ride around town.
I'm not as worried about cost as in the past week I've learned that I could probably save on tubes if I bought a decent tire to begin with. The other tire that has caught my eye are the Panaracer Gravelkings, but I'm not sure they'd be good around town (perhaps slow me down too much?)
I'm new to this hybrid thing and this forum, and I appreciate all the good advice I've taken from other threads. I wish I would have discovered this site long ago.
So, I bought the hybrid knowing I have my road bike when I want to go for longer rides out and about.
Over all the years I've ridden bikes, I never paid much attention to tires usually buying cheap (and spending more money on tubes), so I am a bit of a novice. However, with this hybrid, the tires look to be a bit smooth for the dirty and gravel roads I might use, so I am looking to get myself a nice set of tires that are good enough for casual rides around town (and errands) while allowing me some flexibility to ride the gravel roads I might ride.
The bike is a Marin Larkspur CS2. It comes with Schwalbe Road Plus tires (700 x 40), which look like decent tires from browsing the Schwalbe site. I'm not certain, however, they'd be very good on gravel. I don't really want to get dedicated offroad tires, and from browsing the site, I'm drawn a bit towards the Continental Speed Rides as it seems like they might still do me good for the majority of riding around town while working on gravel when I need them.
Can anyone offer other suggestions? I see from shopping around that 700 x 40 is a bit of an odd size, and I'd probably go downward rather than upward (e.g. 32 to 38 rather than over 40) just because I mostly ride around town.
I'm not as worried about cost as in the past week I've learned that I could probably save on tubes if I bought a decent tire to begin with. The other tire that has caught my eye are the Panaracer Gravelkings, but I'm not sure they'd be good around town (perhaps slow me down too much?)
I'm new to this hybrid thing and this forum, and I appreciate all the good advice I've taken from other threads. I wish I would have discovered this site long ago.
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I did a lot of research over the winter to find tires that meet exactly the criteria you mentioned, and came up aces with Continental SpeedRide 700x42's. They actually measure 38mm when inflated to 50-60 psi.
They are great all-rounders - fast and silent on pavement, and grip way better than I would have believed on gravel and dirt, and even excellent on wet gravel and dirt, as long as it remains firm (ie, they are not a soggy mud/muck tire). But then that's what the numerous overwhelmingly positive reviews you see on these tires all over the place say too, so there you go, yet another positive endorsement.
They were on sale at Jenson last month for $15 each (currently showing out of stock). As far as I'm concerned, for hybrids these tires are "it" in terms of all-round performance and value!
Continental Speedride 700C Tire > Components > Tires > Dirt Tires | Jenson USA
Continental also has a 35mm version called the CycloCross Speed, with exactly the same tread pattern but a slightly higher TPI count (120 vs 84), and also cost about 2x as much.
Cheers
TRJB
They are great all-rounders - fast and silent on pavement, and grip way better than I would have believed on gravel and dirt, and even excellent on wet gravel and dirt, as long as it remains firm (ie, they are not a soggy mud/muck tire). But then that's what the numerous overwhelmingly positive reviews you see on these tires all over the place say too, so there you go, yet another positive endorsement.
They were on sale at Jenson last month for $15 each (currently showing out of stock). As far as I'm concerned, for hybrids these tires are "it" in terms of all-round performance and value!
Continental Speedride 700C Tire > Components > Tires > Dirt Tires | Jenson USA
Continental also has a 35mm version called the CycloCross Speed, with exactly the same tread pattern but a slightly higher TPI count (120 vs 84), and also cost about 2x as much.
Cheers
TRJB
#4
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What is your "gravel"? If you're talking loose pebbly stuff and dry hardpack, just get super-wide road tires. If you're intending to chew through muddier and squishier and clumpier stuff, think about at least having side knobs.
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This is a good topic for where I may want to end up next. Don't want to hijack the thread, but who are the players when it comes to tires and good prices. Where would I look? So far I've only browsed biketiredirect.
TIA
TIA
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Fat city / road tires would work well. If it is just hard pack with the odd pebble. Full on gravel is another story.
I use the Conti CX Speed tires as mentioned above. Love em. Fast. Grippy.
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Ditto, the Conti SpeedRides. Love 'em on my hybridized rigid mountain bike.
But if your rides include fairly well groomed gravel and chat trails (the latter may have pea gravel rather than chunky stuff), you might try just reducing the air pressure in your current Schwalbe tires. That may improve the feel enough to give more confidence riding off pavement. Save some money too.
I do that with the SpeedRides as well. For extended rides on gravel, grass, etc., I'll reduce the pressure, then use my mini pump to get 'em back up for the ride home.
Those SpeedRides are the bee's knees in a great value for hybrids and mixed terrain riding. Even at the full price, around $20-$25, they're a good value.
But if your rides include fairly well groomed gravel and chat trails (the latter may have pea gravel rather than chunky stuff), you might try just reducing the air pressure in your current Schwalbe tires. That may improve the feel enough to give more confidence riding off pavement. Save some money too.
I do that with the SpeedRides as well. For extended rides on gravel, grass, etc., I'll reduce the pressure, then use my mini pump to get 'em back up for the ride home.
Those SpeedRides are the bee's knees in a great value for hybrids and mixed terrain riding. Even at the full price, around $20-$25, they're a good value.
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I use the Conti SpeedRIDE tires on my Trek hybrid. I've had them on since last fall and they do well on nearly any surface. The folding version is pretty light and supple, and works well at many pressures. As others have said, the 42-622 Continentals actually measure out to about 38mm wide. They're a great fit for many bikes, in more ways than one.
That said, your current Schwalbe Road Plus tires should work well under most conditions. Maybe play with air pressure some and see what you think works well for your situation. With looser surfaces, you gain stability with wider tires and/or more air volume. Fortunately, the SpeedRIDEs will provide a good blend of tread, tire size, air volume, and casing design (comfort) to perform well under many conditions, but your current Schwalbes may perform similarly as well. I just don't have personal experience with them to know for sure.
That said, your current Schwalbe Road Plus tires should work well under most conditions. Maybe play with air pressure some and see what you think works well for your situation. With looser surfaces, you gain stability with wider tires and/or more air volume. Fortunately, the SpeedRIDEs will provide a good blend of tread, tire size, air volume, and casing design (comfort) to perform well under many conditions, but your current Schwalbes may perform similarly as well. I just don't have personal experience with them to know for sure.
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Thanks for the info. I think a few of you, on another thread, led me to look at those SpeedRides.
But, let me add some qualifications. I'm in California, and our "Gravel" roads are basically hard-pack dirt roads with somewhat loose AB on top. I'd say the maximum gravel size is roughly 3/4 to 1 in. (or roughly 15 to 25 mm).
The other item that is important is puncture resistance. Goat-heads and other thorny weeds are common on the ground. It's the only thing that causes me problem on my road bike. Never was much of a problem with mountain bikes, but the tires and knobs helped. Are the SpeedRide good in that regard? At $25 a tire I won't complain. I have to admit that because Marin seems to generally favor Schwalbe tires, I had started my search there and had prepared myself to pay their prices going more for puncture resistance than gravel handling.
Subsequently, part of the reason I started this thread was to wonder whether the treads on the more touring style tires are so bad on gravel, especially if I do let some air out? Schwalbe's web page sure makes some of their tires seem perfect for puncture resistance, but not sure about the ability of some of their marathon line on gravel. And, I also realize that some of the thorns I face may require a liner no matter the tire.
But, let me add some qualifications. I'm in California, and our "Gravel" roads are basically hard-pack dirt roads with somewhat loose AB on top. I'd say the maximum gravel size is roughly 3/4 to 1 in. (or roughly 15 to 25 mm).
The other item that is important is puncture resistance. Goat-heads and other thorny weeds are common on the ground. It's the only thing that causes me problem on my road bike. Never was much of a problem with mountain bikes, but the tires and knobs helped. Are the SpeedRide good in that regard? At $25 a tire I won't complain. I have to admit that because Marin seems to generally favor Schwalbe tires, I had started my search there and had prepared myself to pay their prices going more for puncture resistance than gravel handling.
Subsequently, part of the reason I started this thread was to wonder whether the treads on the more touring style tires are so bad on gravel, especially if I do let some air out? Schwalbe's web page sure makes some of their tires seem perfect for puncture resistance, but not sure about the ability of some of their marathon line on gravel. And, I also realize that some of the thorns I face may require a liner no matter the tire.
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Thanks for the info. I think a few of you, on another thread, led me to look at those SpeedRides.
But, let me add some qualifications. I'm in California, and our "Gravel" roads are basically hard-pack dirt roads with somewhat loose AB on top. I'd say the maximum gravel size is roughly 3/4 to 1 in. (or roughly 15 to 25 mm).
The other item that is important is puncture resistance. Goat-heads and other thorny weeds are common on the ground. It's the only thing that causes me problem on my road bike. Never was much of a problem with mountain bikes, but the tires and knobs helped. Are the SpeedRide good in that regard? At $25 a tire I won't complain. I have to admit that because Marin seems to generally favor Schwalbe tires, I had started my search there and had prepared myself to pay their prices going more for puncture resistance than gravel handling.
Subsequently, part of the reason I started this thread was to wonder whether the treads on the more touring style tires are so bad on gravel, especially if I do let some air out? Schwalbe's web page sure makes some of their tires seem perfect for puncture resistance, but not sure about the ability of some of their marathon line on gravel. And, I also realize that some of the thorns I face may require a liner no matter the tire.
But, let me add some qualifications. I'm in California, and our "Gravel" roads are basically hard-pack dirt roads with somewhat loose AB on top. I'd say the maximum gravel size is roughly 3/4 to 1 in. (or roughly 15 to 25 mm).
The other item that is important is puncture resistance. Goat-heads and other thorny weeds are common on the ground. It's the only thing that causes me problem on my road bike. Never was much of a problem with mountain bikes, but the tires and knobs helped. Are the SpeedRide good in that regard? At $25 a tire I won't complain. I have to admit that because Marin seems to generally favor Schwalbe tires, I had started my search there and had prepared myself to pay their prices going more for puncture resistance than gravel handling.
Subsequently, part of the reason I started this thread was to wonder whether the treads on the more touring style tires are so bad on gravel, especially if I do let some air out? Schwalbe's web page sure makes some of their tires seem perfect for puncture resistance, but not sure about the ability of some of their marathon line on gravel. And, I also realize that some of the thorns I face may require a liner no matter the tire.
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Your description of the goat heads and flat resistance will drive your tire choice more than the gravel surface. I ride a lot of gravel with that size stone over mostly sandy base and have used a variety of tires, but I don't really have to worry about flat protection either. I'm currently running Compass Bon Jon Pass extra lite casing tires and love them. You don't need tread for gravel, but you do want to run them with lower air pressure to improve the ride and ability for the tire to roll over the rock instead of just spitting it out to the sides as it encounters it. Your stock Schwalbe tires may be just the thing if run at low enough pressure.
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I've heard the term "Goat's Head" several times, but never really knew what they were - I just looked them up. Thankfully we have nothing of the sort here in central Canada.
Based on what these look like, I would not personally recommend the SpeedRides for that kind of hazard/environment.
I think I would first of all recommend avoiding that environment completely, but if not, then:
1) MTB type tires with heavy thick lugs, to keep the softer "puncture-able" part of the casing up from the road surface as much as possible. Intuitively I would think that would protect the tube a lot more than a slick or semi-slick;
2) heavier/stiffer tires like the Marathon series, with ultra durable puncture protection;
3) tubeless system with a heavy dose of sealant inside.
Unfortunately, as @Craptacular8 says, with Goats Heads, I suspect your tire choice is driven way more by the hazard than any performance oriented aspect.
Cheers
TRJB
Based on what these look like, I would not personally recommend the SpeedRides for that kind of hazard/environment.
I think I would first of all recommend avoiding that environment completely, but if not, then:
1) MTB type tires with heavy thick lugs, to keep the softer "puncture-able" part of the casing up from the road surface as much as possible. Intuitively I would think that would protect the tube a lot more than a slick or semi-slick;
2) heavier/stiffer tires like the Marathon series, with ultra durable puncture protection;
3) tubeless system with a heavy dose of sealant inside.
Unfortunately, as @Craptacular8 says, with Goats Heads, I suspect your tire choice is driven way more by the hazard than any performance oriented aspect.
Cheers
TRJB
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The SpeedRIDE tires have a very minimal amount of puncture protection. My folks live in southern Utah, and dad rides a 2015 Trek DS4. He's put 29x2.1 WTB Nanos on it, AND he runs with a nylon insert between the tires and the tubes because of all the goat heads. Heavy...yes. Durable...also yes.
In your case, I like the idea of a thick touring tire...preferably something as large as possible so you can air it down without pinch-flatting. They won't be as comfortable, but you're going to have to sacrifice that for durability out on the road/trail I think.
In your case, I like the idea of a thick touring tire...preferably something as large as possible so you can air it down without pinch-flatting. They won't be as comfortable, but you're going to have to sacrifice that for durability out on the road/trail I think.
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any votes for Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Ultimate Reflective Hybrid Tire 35mm width?
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...-tire/p/09390/
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/e...-tire/p/09390/
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That Bontrager H5 is probably a decent tire, but it's awfully pricey, and it's likely outclassed by other choices. I've used a few Bontrager tires before, including the H5s in 35-622 that came on my Trek Verve, and they strike me as just "okay"...not interesting enough for me to go out of my way to buy. In this particular case, I think I would spend 50 dollars a tire on a number of other choices before I bought an H5.
Another thing I don't like about them: at least the version I have measures only 33mm wide at the widest part of the tread lugs, and only 31mm tall from the rim lip to the top of the tire. One of the reasons I replaced them on my Trek was air volume -- I wanted a larger tire that I could run at lower pressures. I had to keep the H5s inflated relatively high, only because they're pretty short tires when mounted on a wheel.
They definitely have a thick layer of puncture protection, though. Even the versions I have, which I think are the Hardcase Lite or something like that. The sidewalls feel thin and supple (I like), but the tread layer most certainly has a thick belting through it that feels less pliable. I noticed a dramatic improvement in ride comfort when I took these off in favor of the Continentals, but I don't suffer with the goat heads, either.
The H5s from my Verve are mounted on our daughter's Raleigh Alysa right now. She's light enough to where I can lower the pressure on them for some cushion, yet she's not going to pinch flat them on anything. They seem to work fine on her bike, though I'd prefer a little more tread down the middle for dirt/gravel. The media photos seem to imply more tread than there really is. It's basically a slick, with small lugs on the side.
Another thing I don't like about them: at least the version I have measures only 33mm wide at the widest part of the tread lugs, and only 31mm tall from the rim lip to the top of the tire. One of the reasons I replaced them on my Trek was air volume -- I wanted a larger tire that I could run at lower pressures. I had to keep the H5s inflated relatively high, only because they're pretty short tires when mounted on a wheel.
They definitely have a thick layer of puncture protection, though. Even the versions I have, which I think are the Hardcase Lite or something like that. The sidewalls feel thin and supple (I like), but the tread layer most certainly has a thick belting through it that feels less pliable. I noticed a dramatic improvement in ride comfort when I took these off in favor of the Continentals, but I don't suffer with the goat heads, either.
The H5s from my Verve are mounted on our daughter's Raleigh Alysa right now. She's light enough to where I can lower the pressure on them for some cushion, yet she's not going to pinch flat them on anything. They seem to work fine on her bike, though I'd prefer a little more tread down the middle for dirt/gravel. The media photos seem to imply more tread than there really is. It's basically a slick, with small lugs on the side.
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Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Lite Hybrid Tire is only $30 & goes up to 45mm
Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Lite Hybrid Tire - www.sunrisecyclery.com
the Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Ultimate Reflective Hybrid Tire goes up to 42mm
Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Lite Hybrid Tire - www.sunrisecyclery.com
the Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Ultimate Reflective Hybrid Tire goes up to 42mm
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Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Lite Hybrid Tire is only $30 & goes up to 45mm
Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Lite Hybrid Tire - www.sunrisecyclery.com
the Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Ultimate Reflective Hybrid Tire goes up to 42mm
Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Lite Hybrid Tire - www.sunrisecyclery.com
the Bontrager H5 Hard-Case Ultimate Reflective Hybrid Tire goes up to 42mm
The "Lite" version probably offers about the same level of protection as many other tires in its price range (such as the SpeedRIDE perhaps). It's a minimal basic layer of rubber/nylon. Better than nothing, for sure. Not as good as something a little thicker. In this price range, having run both the H5 "Lite" and the Continental, I certainly prefer the Continental. Given the "enhanced" hazard level the OP deals with, though, I'm not sure either of these particular tires are best suited for the conditions.
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Are there any thoughts on the Vittoria Adventure Trail tires? These show up at online stores but not really on Vittoria's web-page. I suspect these have been updated by Vittoria (Trail Tech maybe based on treads).
They seem like they may have good puncture resistance and be similar to the Speed Kings.
They seem like they may have good puncture resistance and be similar to the Speed Kings.
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As other folks noted, SpeedRides have minimal puncture protection. It appears to be a very thin rubber "breaker", not a Kevlar or Aramid fabric shield. The SpeedRides are just barely heavier than their sibling Cyclocross Speed tires, which Continental doesn't claim offers any puncture protection.
Back in late November-early December I had half a dozen flats on the SpeedRides. One was a razor thin shard of glass from running across one of those patches of sandy road debris that accumulate around busy intersections. All kinds of sharp crap hide in those and I wasn't watching carefully to avoid it.
The other flats were all grass burr needles. I had ridden on some vacant fields, pastures, prairie, etc., which is probably rougher stuff than most maintained single track and gravel. So I'd consider that an anomaly, not an indication that the SpeedRides are flat-prone.
No flats since.
The last "flat" I got with the SpeedRides was actually due to a loose valve core in a new Bontrager tube. Usually I check those when I install new tubes but forgot that time. I stopped in the LBS along the local trail to borrow their floor pump. The mechanic spotted the probably immediately when I described a pesky slow leak without signs of puncture. After I described that rash of flats from grass burrs he filled my tubes with Sliime, gratis, and asked me to let him know later if it seemed to work.
So I bought some Slime and added it to my errand bike, which wears Michelin Protek Cross Max. Although I've never had puncture flats with those tires, and probably won't unless someone lobs a grenade filled with tacks. They're bombproof.
BTW, if you want seriously puncture resistant tires, try Michelins. The Protek Cross Max are their heavy duty puppies, with 5mm Aramid puncture shield. The deep chevron tread is very grippy on gravel, dirt, grass, vacant fields, pastures, prairie, etc. I run 'em at lower pressure for rougher conditions, around 40-50 psi, and higher for smooth pavement. They're remarkably smooth running for such heavy shoes (1,100 g for my 700x40 tires).
If you prefer something lighter, the regular Protek has a 1mm Aramid shield. The Protek Cross adds heavier, thicker chevron tread to the 1mm Aramid shield. The "Max" indicates Michelin's 5mm Aramid shield. So there are variations of thinner tread with thicker shield, thicker tread with thinner shield, and the Mother Of All Balloons, the Protek Cross Max.
Back in late November-early December I had half a dozen flats on the SpeedRides. One was a razor thin shard of glass from running across one of those patches of sandy road debris that accumulate around busy intersections. All kinds of sharp crap hide in those and I wasn't watching carefully to avoid it.
The other flats were all grass burr needles. I had ridden on some vacant fields, pastures, prairie, etc., which is probably rougher stuff than most maintained single track and gravel. So I'd consider that an anomaly, not an indication that the SpeedRides are flat-prone.
No flats since.
The last "flat" I got with the SpeedRides was actually due to a loose valve core in a new Bontrager tube. Usually I check those when I install new tubes but forgot that time. I stopped in the LBS along the local trail to borrow their floor pump. The mechanic spotted the probably immediately when I described a pesky slow leak without signs of puncture. After I described that rash of flats from grass burrs he filled my tubes with Sliime, gratis, and asked me to let him know later if it seemed to work.
So I bought some Slime and added it to my errand bike, which wears Michelin Protek Cross Max. Although I've never had puncture flats with those tires, and probably won't unless someone lobs a grenade filled with tacks. They're bombproof.
BTW, if you want seriously puncture resistant tires, try Michelins. The Protek Cross Max are their heavy duty puppies, with 5mm Aramid puncture shield. The deep chevron tread is very grippy on gravel, dirt, grass, vacant fields, pastures, prairie, etc. I run 'em at lower pressure for rougher conditions, around 40-50 psi, and higher for smooth pavement. They're remarkably smooth running for such heavy shoes (1,100 g for my 700x40 tires).
If you prefer something lighter, the regular Protek has a 1mm Aramid shield. The Protek Cross adds heavier, thicker chevron tread to the 1mm Aramid shield. The "Max" indicates Michelin's 5mm Aramid shield. So there are variations of thinner tread with thicker shield, thicker tread with thinner shield, and the Mother Of All Balloons, the Protek Cross Max.
#21
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Regarding your current tires: Puncture Guard in Road Plus is 3 mm thick, but not as highly elastic as Smart- or GreenGuard. The classic, center rib tread design provides acceptable rolling characteristics.
Doesn't seem to be a premium tire and at 890grams it's pretty heavy too, but that 3mm puncture guard might just do the trick against the goat heads... At 50 TPI they might actually be supple enough not to be an anchor at lower pressures, so as others have said, let some air out before hitting the gravel. Eventually you'll find the right spot.
Doesn't seem to be a premium tire and at 890grams it's pretty heavy too, but that 3mm puncture guard might just do the trick against the goat heads... At 50 TPI they might actually be supple enough not to be an anchor at lower pressures, so as others have said, let some air out before hitting the gravel. Eventually you'll find the right spot.
#22
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I'll try them out a bit.
The goathead thing is not something one can easily avoid. I mean, it's not like I (or anyone) purposely run through them, but in early summer (probably here soon) the things are everywhere. Thankfully, living in Davis, California, the huge emphasis on bikes actually means that the bike paths around here are fairly clean. In Sacramento, where I work, the goatheads are ferocious, and anywhere rural they can be, too.
They are nasty and some varieties can be like a fish-hook. I've never really beat them with my road bike, although I never searched out better tires either. I'll see how these go and then switch over to the Marathons (in all likelihood) if punctures become an issue.
I have to admit, I'm learning (or relearning) a lot by browsing here. The last time I did any riding where I really looked into technical details related to tires was nearly 20 years ago. I feel like there weren't as many sub-classes of riding. Some of the threads on gravel tires here are really useful. And I am sure I can learn more. I've honestly never paid much attention to components in my bikes as making numerous repairs and tuning up my own bike was just a chore I did under the naive assumption that all bike parks are good with the right care.
And, I applaud this forum for its helpfulness to naive people like myself. The LBSs here are not the most friendly places, probably because they see so many naive and helpless customers.
The goathead thing is not something one can easily avoid. I mean, it's not like I (or anyone) purposely run through them, but in early summer (probably here soon) the things are everywhere. Thankfully, living in Davis, California, the huge emphasis on bikes actually means that the bike paths around here are fairly clean. In Sacramento, where I work, the goatheads are ferocious, and anywhere rural they can be, too.
They are nasty and some varieties can be like a fish-hook. I've never really beat them with my road bike, although I never searched out better tires either. I'll see how these go and then switch over to the Marathons (in all likelihood) if punctures become an issue.
I have to admit, I'm learning (or relearning) a lot by browsing here. The last time I did any riding where I really looked into technical details related to tires was nearly 20 years ago. I feel like there weren't as many sub-classes of riding. Some of the threads on gravel tires here are really useful. And I am sure I can learn more. I've honestly never paid much attention to components in my bikes as making numerous repairs and tuning up my own bike was just a chore I did under the naive assumption that all bike parks are good with the right care.
And, I applaud this forum for its helpfulness to naive people like myself. The LBSs here are not the most friendly places, probably because they see so many naive and helpless customers.
#23
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FWIW, unless you're a serious speed demon riding a carbon or very lightweight aluminum bike, your time probably won't suffer much going to puncture resistant tires.
Examples...
My first bike after 30 years away from cycling in 2015 was a 35 lb Globe Carmel comfort hybrid. Despite the aluminum frame it has massively heavy tubes and will never be a lightweight. It's a strong frame with a long wheelbase, perfect as an errand bike with panniers, very comfortable on rough roads. I got fed up with flats from the original tires and switched to the Michelin Protek Cross Max. Heavy tires, but still only a fraction of the weight consider the overall heavy bike.
I can average 12 mph on that bike without knocking myself out.
My second bike, bought last August, was a 1992 Univega rigid fork mountain bike. I hybridized it for comfort with a higher riser bar. I tried three sets of tires before settling on the Conti SpeedRides, which are perfect for that bike and my riding style on mixed terrain. I'm in much better shape now and push myself harder on hilly and windy routes.
I can average 14 mph on that bike. It's lighter, around 30 lbs as I ride it with full water bottle, tools, etc.
Not a huge difference considering the overall lighter weight, including tires that offer less puncture resistance. Any speed gains would be offset with delays for flats if I rode in seriously bad turf with lots of broken glass, nails, screws, staples, goat heads, etc.
So all things considered, you might not be hindering yourself much by using some heavy duty puncture resistant tires. Personally, I'd do that rather than cobbling together a hodge podge of makeshift solutions: separate tire liners, thorn proof tubes with sealant, etc. A good integrated puncture resistant tire would be more efficient. And there are many good ones I'd consider, especially the Schwalbe Marathon Green Guards.
But for serious goat head and grass burr territory, I'd probably stick with my 700x40 Michelin Protek Cross Max. The width feels very stable in loose stuff. These are some tough tires yet still roll nicely on pavement and aren't much slower than my other bike/tires. I'm tempted to swap tires and try the Michelins on the Univega, but the tires wouldn't clear the front derailer -- the Univega has a Shimano Exage front derailer for a triple chain ring, and in the big ring the protruding cable clamp bolt nearly rubs the Contis. The Michelins, while nominally 700x40, actually measure closer to 45 wide.
The Protek Max would be a bit lighter, same 5mm puncture shield, but somewhat thinner chevron pattern tread. Should still be suitable for some off-pavement riding.
Examples...
My first bike after 30 years away from cycling in 2015 was a 35 lb Globe Carmel comfort hybrid. Despite the aluminum frame it has massively heavy tubes and will never be a lightweight. It's a strong frame with a long wheelbase, perfect as an errand bike with panniers, very comfortable on rough roads. I got fed up with flats from the original tires and switched to the Michelin Protek Cross Max. Heavy tires, but still only a fraction of the weight consider the overall heavy bike.
I can average 12 mph on that bike without knocking myself out.
My second bike, bought last August, was a 1992 Univega rigid fork mountain bike. I hybridized it for comfort with a higher riser bar. I tried three sets of tires before settling on the Conti SpeedRides, which are perfect for that bike and my riding style on mixed terrain. I'm in much better shape now and push myself harder on hilly and windy routes.
I can average 14 mph on that bike. It's lighter, around 30 lbs as I ride it with full water bottle, tools, etc.
Not a huge difference considering the overall lighter weight, including tires that offer less puncture resistance. Any speed gains would be offset with delays for flats if I rode in seriously bad turf with lots of broken glass, nails, screws, staples, goat heads, etc.
So all things considered, you might not be hindering yourself much by using some heavy duty puncture resistant tires. Personally, I'd do that rather than cobbling together a hodge podge of makeshift solutions: separate tire liners, thorn proof tubes with sealant, etc. A good integrated puncture resistant tire would be more efficient. And there are many good ones I'd consider, especially the Schwalbe Marathon Green Guards.
But for serious goat head and grass burr territory, I'd probably stick with my 700x40 Michelin Protek Cross Max. The width feels very stable in loose stuff. These are some tough tires yet still roll nicely on pavement and aren't much slower than my other bike/tires. I'm tempted to swap tires and try the Michelins on the Univega, but the tires wouldn't clear the front derailer -- the Univega has a Shimano Exage front derailer for a triple chain ring, and in the big ring the protruding cable clamp bolt nearly rubs the Contis. The Michelins, while nominally 700x40, actually measure closer to 45 wide.
The Protek Max would be a bit lighter, same 5mm puncture shield, but somewhat thinner chevron pattern tread. Should still be suitable for some off-pavement riding.
#24
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BTW, if you want seriously puncture resistant tires, try Michelins. The Protek Cross Max are their heavy duty puppies, with 5mm Aramid puncture shield. The deep chevron tread is very grippy on gravel, dirt, grass, vacant fields, pastures, prairie, etc. I run 'em at lower pressure for rougher conditions, around 40-50 psi, and higher for smooth pavement. They're remarkably smooth running for such heavy shoes (1,100 g for my 700x40 tires).
#25
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Do you find the Michelins to run true to size? Is their 700x40 really 40mm wide/tall when inflated on the rim? The 26" Michelin Country Rocks I run on my MTB are dead-on (1.75" wide). Curious to know if their tires typically run close to size. Continentals, for instance, almost always "run small".