Opinions on hardtail platforms.
12-01-11, 09:21 AM
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Opinions on hardtail platforms.
So I have been riding all my life both bikes and motorcycles and I have been researching building a good hardtail mountain bike lately. There are so many brands these days I just wanted to ask what you guys think as far as a good hardtail foundation goes. I dont really need a full susp. bike I just want a good solid tough hardtail setup that has the ability to be upgraded with good forks etc.. I know what size I need and have been looking at specialized and trek setups but I am just trying to narrow it down and look at all options. For you hardtail riders what do you prefer? What would you consider the toughest frame? I am basically concerned about the frame, forks, and drivetrain first and foremost. I want the best I can get for about $500- $800. Also does anyone run thicker axles than 9mm? I use to have 11's on my bmx.. just curious. I wont be riding any terrain that is super extreme but maybe the 1 to 4 foot rock dropoff etc.. I know everyone has their own favorite as far as setups go I was just wondering say...why it worked well for you and from an engineering standpoint why it is tough etc..
Bottom line is I am kinda looking for a stock package that has the ability to be upgraded and the strength to be worth it in the long run.
Bottom line is I am kinda looking for a stock package that has the ability to be upgraded and the strength to be worth it in the long run.
12-01-11, 09:47 AM
#2
The Left Coast, USA
Have you decided between a 26er or 29er? I think that's your first decision point. Carbon, Al or steel (or Ti) is the second.
12-01-11, 09:51 AM
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I don't know.
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the Access hardtail frame (aluminum) offered at Performance is a good start. I built one.
12-01-11, 10:03 AM
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Sorry I meant to add that. I am 6'3" so most likely a 29" plus I may ride it around town as well so a 29" ratio may be better for that. For the frame most likely Aluminum.. Chromoly is a bit too heavy and TI and carbon are most likely too expensive. I am guessing a 21" frame and although not important right off the bat, I would like it to have basic disc's or at least be tapped to accept calipers for later install.
12-02-11, 04:16 PM
#6
The Left Coast, USA
Sorry I meant to add that. I am 6'3" so most likely a 29" plus I may ride it around town as well so a 29" ratio may be better for that. For the frame most likely Aluminum.. Chromoly is a bit too heavy and TI and carbon are most likely too expensive. I am guessing a 21" frame and although not important right off the bat, I would like it to have basic disc's or at least be tapped to accept calipers for later install.
If you build on a crap frame, it will always be a crap bike - not to be vulgar.
12-02-11, 05:21 PM
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Seriously though, I'd look at something like this if I were you: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...odo+Ii+10.aspx
The Komodo frame is sufficiently burly, and the Marz DJ1 is heavy, but it's a pretty stout fork with a 20mm TA that can put up with some abuse. I actually have a Komodo with a 160mm fork on there, so if at some point you decide the 100mm is too little travel and makes for too steep a HT angle, you can always put a longer fork on there, but coming from a BMX background, you might appreciate the short and stiff DJ fork. It's got a reducer in there too, which gives you even more options for forks if you do choose to put something else on there. It's not a light bike, and mine is a pig whenever the trail points up, but whatever, that's not what you're looking for, right?
12-02-11, 07:43 PM
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[IMG]
Seriously though, I'd look at something like this if I were you: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...odo+Ii+10.aspx
The Komodo frame is sufficiently burly, and the Marz DJ1 is heavy, but it's a pretty stout fork with a 20mm TA that can put up with some abuse. I actually have a Komodo with a 160mm fork on there, so if at some point you decide the 100mm is too little travel and makes for too steep a HT angle, you can always put a longer fork on there, but coming from a BMX background, you might appreciate the short and stiff DJ fork. It's got a reducer in there too, which gives you even more options for forks if you do choose to put something else on there. It's not a light bike, and mine is a pig whenever the trail points up, but whatever, that's not what you're looking for, right?
Seriously though, I'd look at something like this if I were you: https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...odo+Ii+10.aspx
The Komodo frame is sufficiently burly, and the Marz DJ1 is heavy, but it's a pretty stout fork with a 20mm TA that can put up with some abuse. I actually have a Komodo with a 160mm fork on there, so if at some point you decide the 100mm is too little travel and makes for too steep a HT angle, you can always put a longer fork on there, but coming from a BMX background, you might appreciate the short and stiff DJ fork. It's got a reducer in there too, which gives you even more options for forks if you do choose to put something else on there. It's not a light bike, and mine is a pig whenever the trail points up, but whatever, that's not what you're looking for, right?
That is one BA looking frame. Might have to consider that in a couple of years when I have the money to build the SS Rigid that I am wanting!!!!
12-02-11, 08:16 PM
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cowboy, steel horse, etc
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Holy gussett party!!!!
12-02-11, 09:37 PM
#12
Still kicking.
He said he was 6'3", they only have the komodo in medium and small at Jenson. Now finding one somewhere else is always possible, but it would be know where near as good of a deal!!!!
That is one BA looking frame. Might have to consider that in a couple of years when I have the money to build the SS Rigid that I am wanting!!!!
That is one BA looking frame. Might have to consider that in a couple of years when I have the money to build the SS Rigid that I am wanting!!!!
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12-02-11, 10:44 PM
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Following this thread closely...contemplating build a rigid loaner-MTB/personal touring bike, since my old Wahoo has already been loaned out indefinitely. Also, I get bored & bike projects are a fun way to spend time & money 
...And videos like this don't help
...And videos like this don't help
Last edited by samburger; 12-02-11 at 10:48 PM.
12-03-11, 03:48 AM
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At 6'3 you may also want to try out 19" frames for size. It really depends on the proportions of the body. I am 6"2 with long legs. I ride a 21" with a shorter stem, which is perfect for most things, but sometimes I wish I had a 19" so I could throw the bike around a bit better. Anyways, I'm sure you know how to size a bike, but remember you may want a little extra spiel if you want to ride rugged. If I were you I would focus on frame, fork, wheels, brakes, tires, and crankset. IMO the only real compromise I would make is the drivetrain except cranks because a normal deore works just fine until you have the funds to upgrade to XT or SLX.
12-03-11, 04:49 AM
#15
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OP - is your budget for frame only or complete bike? If its complete bike you're gonna be really limited. If frame then you have some decent options. You won't find frame only deals from the bike brands like Trek or the big S. Best bet is from smaller brands like Salsa, Vassago, et al. IMHO, steel is the best bet for a hardtail frame if you're not a racer. The ride is much nicer at the small weight penalty of comparable alu frame. If you've got the funds, spring for Ti or carbon.
Typically front axles are 9mm x 100mm and rear are 10mm x 135mm. No 11mm bmx sillyness here. Got room in your budget and you can go up to 15mm or 20mm front axles. Specific fork and hub to achieve this. You can go 12 x 135 and even 12 x 142 rear thru axles now on some newer frames but I've only seen them on FS frames. The "beefcake" fanatics can probably point you that direction since you want a HT. Again it's gonna hit you in the wallet for this.
I've got a couple HTs and I tend to ride the steel ones more on longer rides than the alu ones. Come to think of it, I like riding my steel rigid bikes the most out of my HTs.
Typically front axles are 9mm x 100mm and rear are 10mm x 135mm. No 11mm bmx sillyness here. Got room in your budget and you can go up to 15mm or 20mm front axles. Specific fork and hub to achieve this. You can go 12 x 135 and even 12 x 142 rear thru axles now on some newer frames but I've only seen them on FS frames. The "beefcake" fanatics can probably point you that direction since you want a HT. Again it's gonna hit you in the wallet for this.
I've got a couple HTs and I tend to ride the steel ones more on longer rides than the alu ones. Come to think of it, I like riding my steel rigid bikes the most out of my HTs.
12-03-11, 09:35 AM
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On-one 456 steel hardtail!! You can build it up however you see fit (from 4" to 6" forks hence 456) and it will handle whatever you can put it through. I love my 456 so much that my full squishy hasn't seen any trail time for weeks!
12-03-11, 10:59 AM
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I wish the 456 had a little more rear tire (or tyre since it's a UK bike) clearance. It's slated to fit a 2.5, but they don't recommend it. They suggest a 2.35 or smaller. As chunky as crap is around here...I'd like to have 2.5" meats on the Komodo.
"26x2.5 tyres will just about fit, but we recommend 2.0 – 2.3" for best performance"
"26x2.5 tyres will just about fit, but we recommend 2.0 – 2.3" for best performance"
12-03-11, 06:18 PM
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Also ed, I will most likely get a different frame, I was just getting at I wasn't something as durable as that beast.
12-03-11, 07:41 PM
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Still kicking.
I've been contemplating going to a rigid fork, but after seeing that video, I think I will keep my F100x on the dmr.
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12-05-11, 05:36 AM
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True that ed. I also wish Tue 456 had a replaceable derailleur hanger...just me being paranoid. I couldn't imagine going back rigid on a MTB with how far suspension fork technology has developed. Even if I were to decide on a 29er, which I wouldn't, it would be with a suspension fork.
12-10-11, 01:04 PM
#23
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Check out a BMC TE-01, rugged race bred machine. Not cheap but euro like build quality. Swiss, Austrian designed.
12-14-11, 09:57 AM
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sweet, I have been browsing around on performance and was wondering about this setup: https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._20000__400308
I like the fact that the frame is 7075 Aluminum and not 6061. most of the components are Shimano Deore which I have heard mixed but mostly good things about for the money. I do not like the fact that the head tube is integrated. I have studied these and I dont like the fact that the raw bearing is seated into the frame itself without a bushing or a cup in-between the bearing and frame. Over time bearing play is going to wear the seats down in the tube and being aluminum I dont know how much I like that design.
Anyone have integrated headsets? I know many many bikes are using them these days I just prefer the design of the old rebuildable internal or conventional headset in comparison.
I like the fact that the frame is 7075 Aluminum and not 6061. most of the components are Shimano Deore which I have heard mixed but mostly good things about for the money. I do not like the fact that the head tube is integrated. I have studied these and I dont like the fact that the raw bearing is seated into the frame itself without a bushing or a cup in-between the bearing and frame. Over time bearing play is going to wear the seats down in the tube and being aluminum I dont know how much I like that design.
Anyone have integrated headsets? I know many many bikes are using them these days I just prefer the design of the old rebuildable internal or conventional headset in comparison.
12-14-11, 10:16 AM
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dont make me get the belt
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I do not like the fact that the head tube is integrated. I have studied these and I dont like the fact that the raw bearing is seated into the frame itself without a bushing or a cup in-between the bearing and frame. Over time bearing play is going to wear the seats down in the tube and being aluminum I dont know how much I like that design.
https://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/Int2...sExplained.pdf