Octalink installation procedure... Question
#1
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Octalink installation procedure... Question
Taking a shot here, I'm hoping somone can help.
I'm preparing to replace an Octalink V1 6500 bottom bracket in my 2002 Trek 7200. Since finding a new 6500 model is almost impossible I am opting for the 5500 model which is readily available. That part of this is a no-brainer.
From my afternoon of online research it appears I will need a Park BBT-18 in order to remove the NDS lockring. I already possess a Park HCW-5 Lockring Wrench but its effective diameter is too big to work. My lockring has an outside diameter of 40mm. I already have the Park BBT-22 in order to remove the cups.
I've been looking at Shimano online installation PDFs and it appears that I may need to hold the NDS cup in place while the lockring is tightened. I do not see, and it does not appear that the BBT-18 would straddle the BBT-22 in order to use them both at the same time. It appears, at least to me, that a lockring wrench would be required in order to manipulate the BBT-22 and the lockring at the same time.
My thought is... I just back-out the cup and then as I tighten the lockring it repositions and tightens the cup along with it to "spec"? Is there a hack or lockring wrench I can use to accomplish this task? Maybe some way I can get the HCW-5 to play nice with this lockring?
For reference...
Bottom Bracket
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-10...Bottom-Bracket
Park BBT-18
https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...ttom%20Bracket
Park BBT-22
https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...ttom%20Bracket
I'm preparing to replace an Octalink V1 6500 bottom bracket in my 2002 Trek 7200. Since finding a new 6500 model is almost impossible I am opting for the 5500 model which is readily available. That part of this is a no-brainer.
From my afternoon of online research it appears I will need a Park BBT-18 in order to remove the NDS lockring. I already possess a Park HCW-5 Lockring Wrench but its effective diameter is too big to work. My lockring has an outside diameter of 40mm. I already have the Park BBT-22 in order to remove the cups.
I've been looking at Shimano online installation PDFs and it appears that I may need to hold the NDS cup in place while the lockring is tightened. I do not see, and it does not appear that the BBT-18 would straddle the BBT-22 in order to use them both at the same time. It appears, at least to me, that a lockring wrench would be required in order to manipulate the BBT-22 and the lockring at the same time.
My thought is... I just back-out the cup and then as I tighten the lockring it repositions and tightens the cup along with it to "spec"? Is there a hack or lockring wrench I can use to accomplish this task? Maybe some way I can get the HCW-5 to play nice with this lockring?
For reference...
Bottom Bracket
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-10...Bottom-Bracket
Park BBT-18
https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...ttom%20Bracket
Park BBT-22
https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...ttom%20Bracket
#2
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All you will need is the BBT-22 to install your bottom bracket. What you’re calling the NDS lockring is actually a cup and the BBT-22 fits both the DS and NDS.
Screw the NDS cup in maybe halfway and screw in the DS all the way. Hand tighten the NDS cup, torque the DS to specs, then torque NDS to specs. It’s pretty easy.
‘Use lots of grease on threads, interfaces with crankarms and self-extractors, anywhere metal meets metal.
Screw the NDS cup in maybe halfway and screw in the DS all the way. Hand tighten the NDS cup, torque the DS to specs, then torque NDS to specs. It’s pretty easy.
‘Use lots of grease on threads, interfaces with crankarms and self-extractors, anywhere metal meets metal.
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#3
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I've been looking at it all day. The Shimano PDF for the 7700 BB shows a separate lockring. But what you're saying appears to be correct because the teeth in cup appear to be extensions of the so-called "lockring". To be honest, that is what I originally thought. But I ended up doing everything imaginable with the BBT-22 and the thing wasn't budging. They I figured that maybe the lockring isn't integrated onto the cup and I would need to get that off first.
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IIRC the 7700 was different from all the others, maybe adjustable? Was not very popular. As you have found, the 5500 is what is available now.
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I'm pretty sure you're correct. I have the 5500 ordered. Now I have to get some penetrating oil on that BB. I don't think that thing has moved in 18 years.
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I've found that the BBT-22 is prone to slip out of the BB. You have to be very careful to keep it straight, the splines could be deeper. You can secure it with a long bolt through the axle with nut and washers but then you have to use an open end wrench rather than a socket. I always had to triple check I was turning the thing in the correct direction. Now they have arrows
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#7
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....and use a loooong handled wrench/socket arm/breaker bar to help you get the BB loose. You do remember that the drive side is turned to the right to loosen? Unless you’ve got a Italian BB.
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I've found that the BBT-22 is prone to slip out of the BB. You have to be very careful to keep it straight, the splines could be deeper. You can secure it with a long bolt through the axle with nut and washers but then you have to use an open end wrench rather than a socket. I always had to triple check I was turning the thing in the correct direction. Now they have arrows
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English BB. I'm all set. I am going to get some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a while before the next attempt.
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I got a 40 mm M8x1.0 (NOT the more common M8x1.25) bolt and a stack of washers and used it to clamp the BB22 firmly to the bb. Then a BIG adjustable wrench on the bb tool flats to remove those cups.
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I've seen a solution somewhat to that online. The wife and I have to make a trip to the local hardware store this morning so I'm going to take some measurements of what I'll need and give that a try. I'm concerned because the other day I was coming very close to stripping this thing and I backed off. My next attempt will be to the letter. Penetrating oil for several hours, bolt down the BBT22 firmly, cross fingers and have a big box of kleenex ready in case I start crying.
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Success!
After stripping almost everything I could strip I got my largest pair of Cannelllocks, gripped the outside of the ring and it came off relatively smooth.
After stripping almost everything I could strip I got my largest pair of Cannelllocks, gripped the outside of the ring and it came off relatively smooth.
#13
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Congrats! A great reason for lotsa grease on clean threads when installing your new BB. Some folks, me too, also use Teflon plumbers tap in addition.