Going up a hill on a recumbent
#26
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You might use either the Sheldon Brown or Mike Sherman gear calculators to see exactly what you have in the way of gears. There is always some overlap between different chainring combinations. I don't think you need to change anything if you never use the smallest chainring, just ride.
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
https://mike-sherman.github.io/shift/
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
https://mike-sherman.github.io/shift/
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I've been considering changing to clipless, but have held off because I'm reluctant to have to change shoes when arriving at my ride start point (which I get to by car). Nevertheless I'm still considering trying clipless. I'd be interested in hearing more specifics about your experience with your new cleats with regard to your "ease and "difference". What specifically is easier and how are they different from what you used before?
Thanks!
Thanks!
https://www.cyclingabout.com/tips-fo...-bike-touring/
Last edited by Mhiniker; 09-27-22 at 06:53 PM.
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I'm glad you ask, Reading at the provided link will give you far more information than I could type here. But the primary reason for having clipless pedals is Efficiency! With your current pedals your only putting power into 50% of every rotation of your foot on the pedal, but if you have clipless pedals, your feet are locked into the pedal and you can both pull as well as push the pedal on every stroke. This proved invaluable to me when too much exertion on my replaced knee would cause excessive pain afterward. Now the bit of hills I've done with the clipless pedals. I can put forth all the effort I want and it alleviates enough of the wear on the knee to keep to keep the pain virtually non-existent
https://www.cyclingabout.com/tips-fo...-bike-touring/
https://www.cyclingabout.com/tips-fo...-bike-touring/
Now I need to figure out exactly where to shop for the shoes/sandals. It appears that my local options around here are pretty limited.
#29
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I've been considering changing to clipless, but have held off because I'm reluctant to have to change shoes when arriving at my ride start point (which I get to by car). Nevertheless I'm still considering trying clipless. I'd be interested in hearing more specifics about your experience with your new cleats with regard to your "ease and "difference". What specifically is easier and how are they different from what you used before?
Thanks!
Thanks!

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#30
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Stopping is something I've always avoided, from the time I ran, to just keep moving forward is key! It affects me too much mentally if I were to have to stop.
Gearing Down: exactly, but to what? My Bent is a 3-10. I did 3-1 to get up the worst local hill the first time, & now finding I just need to start moving up through the 10, as I can while I'm on it, usually to no more than three or four on the sprocket. It's certainly what seems to be working so although this is my original question it is answered. Thank you!
I've only been getting out recently on serious rides with bike groups so the 'bent legs are coming and I can tell
Gearing Down: exactly, but to what? My Bent is a 3-10. I did 3-1 to get up the worst local hill the first time, & now finding I just need to start moving up through the 10, as I can while I'm on it, usually to no more than three or four on the sprocket. It's certainly what seems to be working so although this is my original question it is answered. Thank you!
I've only been getting out recently on serious rides with bike groups so the 'bent legs are coming and I can tell
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I use SPD pedals, and shoes for those are generally walkable. I regularly wear them while driving to a club ride. Although by the end of the ride it feels good to get out of the hot shoes and into something else! The other good thing about dedicated cycling shoes is that the much stiffer sole will cause less hotfoot, numb toes, and generally sore feet. If you want to try an interim solution, there are PowerGrips.


Thanks agai!
#32
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Thanks for that, BlazingPedals. I've been using <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096YVD36S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1">an interim solution similar to the powergrips</a>. While the heel cups on these keep the foot from slipping off the pedals, you can't really pull up on them effectively That's why I'm now seriously considering trying clipless. However, I don't have any place locally (Albany NY area) to shop for SPD shoes to try them on before buying. Are there good online sources to purchase from with a fair return policy? FWIW, the shoes would be used with the pedals that come standard with a Catrike Villager.<br /><br />Thanks agai!
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For hills, I've always tried to maintain a good spin (full-circles) in a lower gear, & only worry about myself (not a racer). Later techniques I learned for longer hills:
-Once the spin is used up in almost the lowest gear, I can either add more leg force using the lower back of my seat as a brace (like a leg-lift weight machine).
-I can pull on the handle bars, forcing my weight & legs forward on the pedals.
t really depends on which bent I'm on and how it's configured. EZ-1 is a handlebar puller, the tadpole trike is a leg-press.
I enjoy hill challenges on my bents. The Ez-1 with a 20" wheel is better than you'd think, and on the trike, well... I don't have to worry about tipping over, LOL! I've ridden past many mtn/road bikers that were walking on steep grades, but a few times on my trike found myself thinking, 'I could walk this hill faster' as I chugged up the hill pressing each leg one after the other.
I guess, just ride more & they'll get easier! Happy trails!
-Once the spin is used up in almost the lowest gear, I can either add more leg force using the lower back of my seat as a brace (like a leg-lift weight machine).
-I can pull on the handle bars, forcing my weight & legs forward on the pedals.
t really depends on which bent I'm on and how it's configured. EZ-1 is a handlebar puller, the tadpole trike is a leg-press.
I enjoy hill challenges on my bents. The Ez-1 with a 20" wheel is better than you'd think, and on the trike, well... I don't have to worry about tipping over, LOL! I've ridden past many mtn/road bikers that were walking on steep grades, but a few times on my trike found myself thinking, 'I could walk this hill faster' as I chugged up the hill pressing each leg one after the other.
I guess, just ride more & they'll get easier! Happy trails!
#34
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On upright bikes, I have 170 or 172.5mm crankarms.
On recumbents, I have 165 or 155mm crankarms.
Shorter crankarms, smaller pedaling circles, easier to spin at higher cadence, which helps climbing hills on recumbent.
Picking the right gearing for the hill climb is key, let your cardio do the work.
On recumbents, I have 165 or 155mm crankarms.
Shorter crankarms, smaller pedaling circles, easier to spin at higher cadence, which helps climbing hills on recumbent.
Picking the right gearing for the hill climb is key, let your cardio do the work.
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#35
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The 2-pin clipless shoes have been around for more than 25 years and they have an outer area around the cleat for walking. An alternative are shoes like the Five Ten made for mountain bikes and put on mountain bike pedals with their pins. The Crankbrothers Stamp 7 is great for large feet.

#36
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I'm not sure what pedals come OEM with a Catrike Villager. If pedals came with yours, they are most likely SPD, and if you currently use regular shoes, that might mean that you have double-sided pedals with SPD on one side and a flat pedal on the other side. SPD cleats are two-bolt, common to most mountain biking shoes. The pic posted above by Calsun is for SPD.
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#37
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Recumbents are imo the ideal use case for ebike systems because their bulk does not allow them to hide on the side as easily as bicycles and because also it is harder to push them up hills. So there you have it: install an ebike system.
#38
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This from the guy who started the "I don't like electric bicycles" thread over in General? Do you have a trike, or is this just some cerebral evaluation?
#39
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Stopping is something I've always avoided, from the time I ran, to just keep moving forward is key! It affects me too much mentally if I were to have to stop.
Gearing Down: exactly, but to what? My Bent is a 3-10. I did 3-1 to get up the worst local hill the first time, & now finding I just need to start moving up through the 10, as I can while I'm on it, usually to no more than three or four on the sprocket. It's certainly what seems to be working so although this is my original question it is answered. Thank you!
I've only been getting out recently on serious rides with bike groups so the 'bent legs are coming and I can tell
Gearing Down: exactly, but to what? My Bent is a 3-10. I did 3-1 to get up the worst local hill the first time, & now finding I just need to start moving up through the 10, as I can while I'm on it, usually to no more than three or four on the sprocket. It's certainly what seems to be working so although this is my original question it is answered. Thank you!
I've only been getting out recently on serious rides with bike groups so the 'bent legs are coming and I can tell
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I've been considering changing to clipless, but have held off because I'm reluctant to have to change shoes when arriving at my ride start point (which I get to by car). Nevertheless I'm still considering trying clipless. I'd be interested in hearing more specifics about your experience with your new cleats with regard to your "ease and "difference". What specifically is easier and how are they different from what you used before?
Thanks!
Thanks!
I as someone who has flat feet & typically wear my athletic shoes built for the flat feet with lots of extra support at the arch, feared the minimal type of shoe a cleat is by design. However I've found the required time spent in cleats, it mostly being 'on' the bicycle. the good outweighs any negatives. There are several different types of cleats, some much easier for time off the bike then others, I however try to avoid it, and while I too feared having to switch back and forth between street shoes and cleats. You only become quicker at switching between the two and it really won't seem like anything after a while.
Last edited by Mhiniker; 10-24-22 at 05:53 PM.
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#44
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I'm not the greatest climber in the world, but I can hold my own most of the time. Hill-climbing is highly dependent on the machine and the rider, regardless of which platform the machine is.
#46
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Climbing speed is important, because you don't want your friends to all beat you up the hill; you want to beat all of them.

#47
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My memory is just fine.
BTW I suspect that many DF riders LIKE to get off their bikes with their pain in the ass tiny little saddles, and walk up the hill for some relief.
BTW you are on my turf now!!!!
BTW I suspect that many DF riders LIKE to get off their bikes with their pain in the ass tiny little saddles, and walk up the hill for some relief.
BTW you are on my turf now!!!!
Last edited by rydabent; 01-10-23 at 12:33 PM.
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#49
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Tomato Coupe probably views the forums by 'most recent posts,' and doesn't even realize he's in the Recumbent forum. It's something to be aware of when we post things, that even though we're posting in a specialized forum, others will probably see it and follow us back here.
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Tomato Coupe probably views the forums by 'most recent posts,' and doesn't even realize he's in the Recumbent forum. It's something to be aware of when we post things, that even though we're posting in a specialized forum, others will probably see it and follow us back here.