ninjaman1138

hello

I have a gary fisher Tiburon. I got a new chain for it, though im still having problems. the chain doesn't sit on the gears properly. this is my explanation not a diagnosis. I have tried to look at the problem but I don't really know what im looking at. I have adjusted the barrel adjuster to get the chain to change gear and this has worked. there is no grinding sound and the chain switches gears smoothly. though when I ride the bike and put weight on the pedal there is a regular slipping sound. regular as in, no matter what gear, it still makes that sound at the same frequency. like, "clack, clack, clack". its when I put weight on the peddle. when I get speed up and just maintain speed without putting weight on the peddle there is no clacking sound. I don't know if the chain is not sitting properly on the gears or if the gears are worn. I have had the bike for about 7-8 years and changed the chain once. I used to ride it too and from work everyday.
not sure what the problem is. open to suggestions.
thanks
simon

noglider 

Your cassette is worn. Often this is exposed or exacerbated when you replace your chain. It's time to replace your cassette.

ninjaman1138

is that an exact diagnosis, I looked at the sprockets and cant find, not that I am an expert, any issue. there are not many videos on what a worn sprocket looks like. I don't know if it could be the derailleur. I would like a way to find out these things.
any hints or suggestions
I don't want to have to take it somewhere and pay money.

thanks
simon

AnkleWork

Look at the top right corner of this page for the search box. Also, Google, etc.

Shimagnolo

You can't determine cog wear visually.
The positive evidence for worn-out cogs is:
a) New chain causes jumping that was not there before.
b) This tool: HG-CHECK: www.rohloff.de

ninjaman1138

I checked the front and rear sprockets, I cant find any sign of damage to the rear but the front is quite worn. some are like sharks teeth. could this cause slipping?

Tundra_Man 

+1

OP stated he rode 7-8 years on the same chain, then when he changed the chain the slipping started. Classic case of a too-worn chain wearing down the cassette. Replace the cassette, then start replacing the chain more often to extend the life of the new cassette.

cny-bikeman

You said you were open to suggestions, noglider provided a diagnosis with the reason for the problem, and at no cost. Shimagnolo supported the diagnosis and advised you that you can't determine cog wear visually, yet you then said you could not see damage to the cogs. What more do you want?

You changed the chain and did not move or change the derailleur, the chain is slipping on the cogs, so the conclusion not only from experience but from logic is that the cogs are the problem. The front "shark's teeth" usually don't cause slipping because more teeth are engaged at once than in the rear but it certainly is less efficient and stresses the new chain, can also degrade shifting and cause "chain suck - chain sticking to the teeth.

Finally, videos are not the best way to learn about bike maintenance - they are better as a supplement. Google anything you are interested in and then check the parktool.com and sheldonbrown.com results first.

noglider 

Yes, it's an exact diagnosis. If I am proven wrong, I'll give you double your money back. I'm a bicycle professional, and I'm certain of my diagnosis and advice. This is a classic problem, and I treat it often. The classic fix is guaranteed to work.

Shimagnolo

In my experience, worn chainrings won't cause slipping/jumping, but what they will do as they wear to a slightly hooked shape:

- Moderate wear: Make a rattling sound as the RD tugs the chain off of the chainring. As you are pedaling, you can look down and watch the lower half of the chain shaking as this happens.

- Severe wear: The chain will remain stuck to the chainring and be pulled up into the underside of the FD. aka "chainsuck".

ninjaman1138

ok, I will replace the rear sprockets.
one problem now is im not sure if they are freewheel or cassette. from what I understand freewheel is screw on and cassette is a splined hub. from what I have read the splined hub is very popular from 2000 on. so the Tiburon I have is 2006 model. im not sure of the right removal tool and whether it is a freewheel or cassette. the thing is cost!
I want to buy the cheapest gears available. for the free wheel, 7 speed, 14-34 teeth is £9. the tools are about £5-6. this is ideal. and if the sprockets are the problem then this is great. I know what im doing now, but if not im back at square one and down some money.
so if I seem a little uncertain about it that is why, im not working at the moment and have no income. I want to cycle to get in shape as my health is deteriorating.
so, THE HELP IS APPRECIATED!!!
but the cost thing is worrying me.
thanks
all the best
simon

Shimagnolo

This says it has a cassette: 2006 Fisher Tiburon S - Bike Archive - Trek Bicycle

cny-bikeman

Not quite there yet, chap. If the bike did not come with a 34 tooth large rear cog you probably can't put one on without a longer chain and possibly a different rear derailleur.

ninjaman1138

i got the tool required to remove the cassette. now I want to find some sprockets to put on the bike. can I use a different sprocket set than the original. the original is a sunrace 13-34. but I cant find anywhere local that sells them and ebay doesn't have any. I was looking at a cheaper shimano option of 14-34. would this work?
there is a 12/32 for £7.99, what would be the difference when riding. more leg work?

cny-bikeman

14-34 is fine. 12/32 give you a higher lower low gear and higher high gear. I'd suggest the former is what you have has been working for you.