Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Is this the correct .883 (21.1) quill adapter to get?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Is this the correct .883 (21.1) quill adapter to get?

Old 05-23-22, 02:35 PM
  #1  
solveg
Squirrel
Thread Starter
 
solveg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Winfield, KS
Posts: 4,940

Bikes: Borthwick Touring bike, 83 Schwinn Peloton, 94 Scott Cheyenne, ?? Bianchi Torino

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Is this the correct .883 (21.1) quill adapter to get?

I’m doing my first build from scratch on a 1994 Raleigh Crested Butte touring mountain bike.

I’m going to need some help on this, but I am trying to figure out as much as I can before I bother you all.

it’s going to be set up as a true touring bike, and I am working from brakes, a frame, BB and headset. The stem was originally .883. I was going to just buy a stem with drop bars off eBay but I read that this bike doesn’t handle well with drop bars. I was hoping to get a Jones H-bar, but that seems unlikely at this point.

I read that there was an Manowar adapter sold by only one bike shop, but that shop has closed.

I found This SGVbicycles one. I haven’t gone the next step to see what options the bar clamp offers…I just want to make sure I’m understanding this correctly.

if anyone knows any better options aimed at a goal of handlebars with lots of options, let me know.

I’m trying to figure out if I should part out my Rivendell (I shrunk, now it’s too big) or do more of a restoration on this bike.
solveg is offline  
Old 05-23-22, 03:19 PM
  #2  
Iride01 
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,800

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6099 Post(s)
Liked 4,730 Times in 3,260 Posts
Can a mountain touring bike ever be a true road touring bike? Seems like the geometry will be all wrong.

Or are you wanting to tour on a bicycle off of all roads paved, gravel or otherwise?

As for the adapter, sure, if it fits in the size steerer tube you have then that'll work if you want a threadless type stem for your bars. But if you are rebuilding the bike, why not have the fork steerer changed to threadless and change out the headset if they can't work as a proper threadless headset. It'll be a tad lighter. Though a little harder to find a good selection of stems for that narrow steerer tube.

Last edited by Iride01; 05-23-22 at 03:23 PM.
Iride01 is offline  
Old 05-23-22, 03:56 PM
  #3  
solveg
Squirrel
Thread Starter
 
solveg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Winfield, KS
Posts: 4,940

Bikes: Borthwick Touring bike, 83 Schwinn Peloton, 94 Scott Cheyenne, ?? Bianchi Torino

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Iride01
Can a mountain touring bike ever be a true road touring bike? Seems like the geometry will be all wrong.
This is one of the first mountain bikes and it has touring geometry.

Originally Posted by Iride01
But if you are rebuilding the bike, why not have the fork steerer changed to threadless and change out the headset if they can't work as a proper threadless headset.
I’m trying to use as many of my Atlantis parts as I can, so I would have loved it if I could have just moved the (quill) stem and handlebars over as is. I might still do that with this adapter just to see if the handling is ok if I put the bottom of the drops equal to the seat. I hadn’t really thought about just putting in a new headset, so I’ll have to read about it. That would give me a standard
dimension to work with. But the adapter is only $25 if it’s a safe option.

Last edited by solveg; 05-23-22 at 04:08 PM.
solveg is offline  
Old 05-23-22, 05:29 PM
  #4  
Iride01 
I'm good to go!
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,800

Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020

Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6099 Post(s)
Liked 4,730 Times in 3,260 Posts
Originally Posted by solveg
This is one of the first mountain bikes and it has touring geometry.
I don't know if it is or isn't a proper touring geometry. I just think of mountain bikes as being the ideal for off road riding. And touring is done on the road. So my comment was more that Mountain Touring seemed like an oxymoron from the point of view that touring is fairly long distance riding and on roads of some sort. So think of it as my bad dry humor with maybe a wee bit of misconception and nothing more.

I’m trying to use as many of my Atlantis parts as I can, so I would have loved it if I could have just moved the (quill) stem and handlebars over as is. I might still do that with this adapter just to see if the handling is ok if I put the bottom of the drops equal to the seat. I hadn’t really thought about just putting in a new headset, so I’ll have to read about it. That would give me a standard
dimension to work with. But the adapter is only $25 if it’s a safe option.
I put a similar adapter in my '91 Schwinn Paramount that I rebuilt and put 11 speed Shimano on. As long as the length of the part going down into your steerer tube gets the wedge to the proper depth, then you should be as safe as anything else. I'll certainly never use a 7 style stem again. If I ever get an old bike again, the adapter will be one of the first things put on it. Though I'd consider having the steerer cut off and a new piece brazed on to go entirely threadless.
Iride01 is offline  
Old 05-23-22, 07:25 PM
  #5  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,998

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4171 Post(s)
Liked 3,789 Times in 2,269 Posts
Stem- We fit quite a few of these types of stem adaptors each year. They work well if the rider isn't a hammer head that is going for big air all the time. Actually the majority of the brands we sell have off road limitations in their documents. The stem adaptor has no bar clamp, that's for the stem to determine. (When I clicked on the link a stem adaptor and not a stem was pulled up). So you need to know the Jones bar's clamp diameter and the adaptor's "quill" diameter (1.125" per link) and the reach and rise of the stem you will seek.

MtB as touring bike- Sure, many have done this. There are some considerations that often generate opinion

One is that most MtB frames have a longer top tube length than a road bike of the same rider "size". (Remember the hand position is behind the stem/bar clamp on most all MtB bars and ahead of the clamp for drop bars). So for some a drop bar brake hood reach is rather longer than they had with flat bars on the converted bike. A shorter stem can mitigate this somewhat.

As this bike was made for a rigid and non suspension fork is a good thing. Front racks and fenders fit so much better on most rigid forks.

Any handling claims for this bike after a drop bar conversion I will take with some "salt". Handling is a very complex thing WRT bike design and the rider's contribution/perception is a large part of any opinion. Added to the crazy weight distribution of some touring bikes and without a lot of added data most all claims are specific to only that rider on that set up with that load.

The Rivendell- Not enough stand over clearance? Or too much reach? I would think these bike have a greater value on the used market as a complete bike with OEM spec, not a mish mask cobbled to sell or a frame/fork sale only. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 05-23-22, 09:23 PM
  #6  
solveg
Squirrel
Thread Starter
 
solveg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Winfield, KS
Posts: 4,940

Bikes: Borthwick Touring bike, 83 Schwinn Peloton, 94 Scott Cheyenne, ?? Bianchi Torino

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart

The Rivendell- Not enough stand over clearance? Or too much reach? I would think these bike have a greater value on the used market as a complete bike with OEM spec, not a mish mask cobbled to sell or a frame/fork sale only. Andy
Thanks for verification on the adapter. I read so many posts about people resorting to sanding stems that I got suspicious when I found this one so fast.

Yes. My eyes are opening as I’m planning this build. I loved my Atlantis… every little bit of how it was set up and was kind of hoping I could just replace the frame.

My story is a bit weird. I was just learning to wrench ( did a couple tear-downs/rebuilds and built a wheel set) and was working on building up my miles when I got sick about 15 years ago. Started to get better, then got an antibiotic resistant staph that started a bunch of other problems.

The dream of touring the route of the Underground Railroad kept me going through some dark times. So I finally got strong enough to start riding and I found out I am an inch shorter. My atlantis was always a tad too tall for me..I am super long waisted. I now have negative clearance and I’m not sure how my reach is going to play out.

I don’t want to buy another Atlantis frame because I’m assuming I am going to continue to shrink, and I don’t think I’ll like the bike on the small size. Also, going down to a 52 puts me on 650b wheels, so couldn’t keep mine.

I really didn’t see any step through touring options, so I decided to do a build, for fun but also while I’m building up my strength on my Scott Rigid mtb. And honestly, my health issues could/will come back at some point so my dreams might be unachievable. So I decided to make the process the thing instead of buying another $$ bike and then feeling bad if I can’t actually adventure on it.

This frame is pretty cool and I’m optimistic it has enough top tube for me on a smaller frame. I saw it described somewhere as stand over for 5’7” but reach for someone 6’1” which is just over an inch too much for perfect, I predict. I’m looking for uneventful, cushy riding on a variety of roads and paths.

I definitely may sell my Atlantis as a complete bike. My next step is to pull out the original receipt and see how much is usable on the Raleigh. Then I’ll decide.

Long answer, wasn’t it? But I realize what I’m doing might not make a lot of sense without the background, and you guys will be seeing my posts in the future!

Last edited by solveg; 05-24-22 at 06:20 PM.
solveg is offline  
Old 05-24-22, 08:35 AM
  #7  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 17,998

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4171 Post(s)
Liked 3,789 Times in 2,269 Posts
solveg- Thanks for the greater insight. I have a friend (we were an "item" back in 1980) who contracted a severe case of Lyme disease and didn't find help for years. She's now sort of recovered but lost 3" in her spine. Her bike fit has changed dramatically too.

Another sort of GF from way back when had me build her a "mixte" type frame w/ 559 wheels as nearly 40 years after the first frame/bike I made for her became too large too. I now have this old bike and am tasked with finding a new home for it.

It sounds like you are figuring this new bike out with a good approach. Hope you find it serves you well and can continue to ride in comfort and joy. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 05-25-22, 09:57 AM
  #8  
joejack951
Senior Member
 
joejack951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 12,098

Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1240 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times in 65 Posts
21.1(5)mm = .833" ---> This is a less common quill size typically found on old Schwinns, cheap cruiser-style bikes, and older BMX.

22.2mm = .875" ---> This is by far the most common quill size used on road and some mountain bikes. There's no easy way to interchange the two sizes. I'd recommend remeasuring before buying anything.

If you happen to be interested in a cleaner solution to going threadless than using a quill adapter I can probably help.
joejack951 is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.