Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#4752
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#4753
Senior Member
#4754
Senior Member
Do you have the XFDD? That is the 70mm version. I can't go on about what you say you have or don't have if you don't know. My experience with the 70mmm SUCKS. PERIOD. It barely hauled me to a stop without using the rear brake as well. I don't recommend it to anyone. The 90mm XLFDD is a whole nother ballgame. Stops like it should for that much weight. And yes, I adjusted the cable properly, and I even had the Sturmey levers, also properly adjusted.
#4755
buy my bikes
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,799
Bikes: my very own customized GUNNAR CrossHairs
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 519 Post(s)
Liked 426 Times
in
248 Posts
- OK - I fixed the links in the original post. I think.
there's also an album here: https://goo.gl/photos/dWY7zbBkWffWgky26
- the linear pull brake images should be near the end of the album.
there's also an album here: https://goo.gl/photos/dWY7zbBkWffWgky26
- the linear pull brake images should be near the end of the album.
#4756
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 210
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#4757
Jedi Master
I think the new Citi Bikes in NYC have 70mm Sturmey Archer drum brakes. Probably fine if you're just cruising around. Probably inadequate for a downhill mountain bike. I'm building a commuter with and X-RD3/X-FDD (3-speed/dynamo/70mm drum) setup and will be very surprised if is not perfectly adequate for my intended use. I'll report back after some time on the bike.
#4758
Senior Member
Dude, I'm not the one arguing. You said the 70mm were worthless, I replied that I didn't have any problems with mine. I just did a review of my posts about the bike and don't see where I mentioned the model, ever. If I mistakenly mislabeled it elsewhere I'll own up to it, but I think you either made an assumption or are confusing me with someone else.
Last edited by Taxi Rob; 02-27-16 at 11:48 AM.
#4759
Senior Member
- OK - I fixed the links in the original post. I think.
there's also an album here: https://goo.gl/photos/dWY7zbBkWffWgky26
- the linear pull brake images should be near the end of the album.
there's also an album here: https://goo.gl/photos/dWY7zbBkWffWgky26
- the linear pull brake images should be near the end of the album.
#4760
Senior Member
Dude, I'm not the one arguing. You said the 70mm were worthless, I replied that I didn't have any problems with mine. I just did a review of my posts about the bike and don't see where I mentioned the model, ever. If I mistakenly mislabeled it elsewhere I'll own up to it, but I think you either made an assumption or are confusing me with someone else.
#4762
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Little better image of my 95 Stumpy M2 with drop bar conversion. I like to say, when she turned 21 I took her to a bar, a drop bar. https://www.flickr.com/photos/chunti...posted-public/
Last edited by Chunt61; 03-02-16 at 06:45 AM.
#4763
Pedal to the medal
Little better image of my 95 Stumpy M2 with drop bar conversion. I like to say, when she turned 21 I took her to a bar, a drop bar. https://www.flickr.com/photos/chunti...posted-public/
#4764
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks! That's radial lacing yep, on the front wheel. Not by design, just part of the parts package I had sitting around in the garage during my attempt to do the conversion under 100 bucks. The wheels were the original spec on a 2001 Gary Fisher Sugar 1. They're actually beautiful light wheels. Bontrager Race Light with re-branded Hugi hubs and nice ceramic braking surfaces.
#4766
Senior Member
I recently moved back to Oregon after a few years in NC and totally forgot about this project that I was storing in my parents garage. Fount the axiom rack for $5 at a thrift store and the Deore RD at the co-op along with the tires for $6. I had to coax a crappy rear rack onto the front to complete the ensemble. I am going to change the stem for a better one because I'm pretty sure this one is from a BSO.
Last edited by degan; 03-01-16 at 08:01 PM.
#4767
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: New Bedford, Mass
Posts: 110
Bikes: 1972 Motobecane Le Champion, 1976 Motobecane Grand Record
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
This is my '90/91 Ross MT Rushmoore, nothing special as far as rigid bikes go, had entry level parts but I like the geometry, I stripped the paint, still some left but im running it baremetal, the reach is a little far because of the phillippe stem (100mm) The first thing I bought was 26x2.35 Fat Franks, its actually why I bought the bike in the first place, I had baloon tire lust and wanted to see what it was all about. It still needs the kinks worked out but its a runner, today was its first voyage around the harbor. I had some fenders from a old 3 speed huffy that i rolled and stretched to fit, I still need to mount the front. I will be running it as a single chainring, as soon as I get shorter bolts.
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
#4768
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 170
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
While working on 90 DB Apex for the drop bar conversion, I found a 87 Schwinn Cimarron. I am now planning to convert the Cimarron into the drop bar. It's been stripped to clean and re-lube. However, build is stuck as I am still waiting on Salsa Cowchipper bar to arrive
Here's how it arrived:
Stripped to clean, and on hold until the bar and other parts to arrive.
Here's how it arrived:
Stripped to clean, and on hold until the bar and other parts to arrive.
#4769
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: NoVA - DC Metro
Posts: 1,037
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Prelude
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 296 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
5 Posts
Here is my Specialized Hardrock conversion. This thread has been a real inspiration. I think the bike is a 1995 model, but I would love if someone could clarify that for me. The frame was in great shape when I picked it up from Craigslist for $50.The rest of the parts came mostly from my parts bin. I did put about $100 into it. It’s a sweet ride for $150. I will replace the wheels with something fit for touring/commuting once I have some more money to put into the project. I just need to decide if I’m going to run a dynamo and lights before acquiring a wheelset.
Thank you to all that have inspired me and helped me determine what I wanted to do with this project. I’m sure it will continue to be a work in progress as I get more miles on it.
The before and after pictures make it look like a different bike. It was just too dark when I shot the after pictures this evening.
Thank you to all that have inspired me and helped me determine what I wanted to do with this project. I’m sure it will continue to be a work in progress as I get more miles on it.
The before and after pictures make it look like a different bike. It was just too dark when I shot the after pictures this evening.
O 1990
P 1991
Q 1992
R 1993
S 1994
T 1995
U 1996
V 1997
A - Jan
L - Dec
#4770
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I love how this looks. Did you clear coat it or do anything else to prevent it from rusting?
#4771
Brown Jersey Winner
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: The Bad Woods.
Posts: 8,797
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 243 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
13 Posts
This is my '90/91 Ross MT Rushmoore, nothing special as far as rigid bikes go, had entry level parts but I like the geometry, I stripped the paint, still some left but im running it baremetal, the reach is a little far because of the phillippe stem (100mm) The first thing I bought was 26x2.35 Fat Franks, its actually why I bought the bike in the first place, I had baloon tire lust and wanted to see what it was all about. It still needs the kinks worked out but its a runner, today was its first voyage around the harbor. I had some fenders from a old 3 speed huffy that i rolled and stretched to fit, I still need to mount the front. I will be running it as a single chainring, as soon as I get shorter bolts.
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
Bare Metal Ross by Ryan Silva, on Flickr
#4772
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: New Bedford, Mass
Posts: 110
Bikes: 1972 Motobecane Le Champion, 1976 Motobecane Grand Record
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
I still need to remove some of the previous paint in the hard to reach areas but I just gave it a WD40 rub anywhere I could reach, basically I soak a rag in it, or any other knockoff version of wd40 and keep rubbing the metal, so far its lasted a month without any rust, but im also not riding in the rain either. Im not worried about rust on this bike, surface rust is easy to rub off. Im sure the surface rust will form much faster once the weather starts really warming though.
#4773
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 36
Bikes: 3 Frankenbikes (Stumpjumper, Karakoram, Trek 930), Fuso, Tarmac Pro, '72 Fuji Finest, Soma Saga, El Diente, Cannondale tandem, 2 mountain bikes, more...
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chain tension and why small cogs wear out fast(er)... In short, one's riding and shifting style will affect the life of one's chain and the teeth on the cassette. In a previous post:
When riding the chain is under tension. The greater the tension the faster it will wear as this will increase the forces the dirt particles inside the chain which are grinding wearing out the chain. Additionally as previously, if the small(er) cogs are used on the cassette, the load of the chain is applied to fewer teeth of the cassette and will accelerate wear.
The mechanics/physics is fairly straight forward. The force applied to the chain is a simple machine where there are two lever arms:
1. Pedal spindle to bottom bracket (fulcrum)
2. Bottom bracket to teeth of chainring.
For example, compare these two scenarios: a 48/26 tooth chainring/cassette combination versus a 24/13 chainring/cassette combination. Both provide the exact same gear ratio. A pedaling cadence of 90 rpm will result in the exact same speed and the cyclist will be applying the exact same force to the pedals. But what is also occurring is the tension in the chain will be twice as high when using the 24/13 combination. This will cause the chain to wear much faster with the 48/26.
This is also why 29'ers, in general, have smaller chainrings on the cranksets and why they're moving to larger rear cassettes. It's the same dual lever simple machine: cassette teeth to rear axle, rear axle to edge of the rear tire. The 29'er wheels are 12% larger diameter so a chainring/cassette combination which worked fine on a 26'er is going to have significantly (12%) higher gearing on a 29'er. Similarly, if moving from 26x2.5 mountain tires to 26x1.5 road slicks, one will get lower effective gearing as the rear wheel will be smaller. All things being equal, a smaller diameter rear wheel will be less wear on the drivetrain. But I digress... Back to the original point, using the larger chainrings will reduce wear on the drivetrain. To be clear, I am not advocating a lower cadence, if one can get the same gear ration on the large or middle chainrings this will provide greater drivetrain life.
-snip-
Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
Its the high gears that wear first, so that is the first place I see problems. Most of the time, its the freewheel or cassette, as anymore, I am checking the hanger as part of the rebuild process. I will reuse a freewheel or cassette that "looks good", but I guess I don't know enough as sometimes the ones that look OK aren't. Realize there are a lot of riders out there that rarely shift, and wear out their small cogs. That plus the small ones have a lot fewer teeth in contact with the chain, so they are getting a much tougher load than the big cogs.
The mechanics/physics is fairly straight forward. The force applied to the chain is a simple machine where there are two lever arms:
1. Pedal spindle to bottom bracket (fulcrum)
2. Bottom bracket to teeth of chainring.
For example, compare these two scenarios: a 48/26 tooth chainring/cassette combination versus a 24/13 chainring/cassette combination. Both provide the exact same gear ratio. A pedaling cadence of 90 rpm will result in the exact same speed and the cyclist will be applying the exact same force to the pedals. But what is also occurring is the tension in the chain will be twice as high when using the 24/13 combination. This will cause the chain to wear much faster with the 48/26.
This is also why 29'ers, in general, have smaller chainrings on the cranksets and why they're moving to larger rear cassettes. It's the same dual lever simple machine: cassette teeth to rear axle, rear axle to edge of the rear tire. The 29'er wheels are 12% larger diameter so a chainring/cassette combination which worked fine on a 26'er is going to have significantly (12%) higher gearing on a 29'er. Similarly, if moving from 26x2.5 mountain tires to 26x1.5 road slicks, one will get lower effective gearing as the rear wheel will be smaller. All things being equal, a smaller diameter rear wheel will be less wear on the drivetrain. But I digress... Back to the original point, using the larger chainrings will reduce wear on the drivetrain. To be clear, I am not advocating a lower cadence, if one can get the same gear ration on the large or middle chainrings this will provide greater drivetrain life.
#4774
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 170
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Anyone have On One Midge bar that they would like to get rid of? I ordered a Salsa Cowchipper bar, but they are backordeded till May. My dropbar conversion is on hold until I can get a bar. TIA.