Frkl

Ah, optical illusion in the photo, thanks for the second pic!

BoozyMcliverRot

bicyclepost

Wow I have not been on here for a long time. Sorry if this is no longer helpful, maybe you've already gotten the tires, but yes they are Paselas and I love them! I was coming from 1.3" slicks before so I can't speak to how they compare with wider tires like the Maxxis DTHs you have, but I find the Paselas quick enough for me on the road and super comfortable on gravel. I'd definitely recommend!

cheffyjay

quick conversion I put together for gravel rides with my daughter. I fell for a cheap 'celeste green' bar wrap online. not even close.

degan

I've been riding it around in this iteration for a while so don't mind the dirt. I'm actually surprised about how well those tires roll.

cjm1347

Didn't know mongoose made a 26" mtb, I was always impressed by their Ti road frames.

degan

I knew they made some nice bikes at the end but I didn't know this existed until I found it. I also have a Mongoose ATB Pro from the mid-80s, one of their early tries at a 26" mtb, that somewhere in this thread.

Mr.Volpitz

That 2005 Corratec deserves a tread of its own!
A handful of ATB Nobility.

vp1337

Work in progress. Removing kickstand and adding more gear range soon. Then bigger tyres of course.

RB1-luvr

1989 Supergo Access Comp Deore owned since new. Suntour Tourney 3x7 shifter/levers. I raced it the first few years, now it's an errand/adventure bike. It comes in handy on the Cape (shown here).

gthomson

Very nice setup, looks like a great touring/adventure bike or city commuter. Assuming you installed the 3x7 brifters replacing the original trigger shifters the bike came with? If so, how did that go? did you need to replace the other components or did you leave them on?

I'm thinking if I do a conversion this is the route I will go instead of trying to fit a 2 X whatever and have to install a complete new group set or do a 1 X 11 conversion. I figure, the extra gears never hurt and they were good enough for those original mtn. bikes.

RB1-luvr

the Tourney Levers were plug-n-play for shifting (was thumb shifters originally). The crank and rear cassette are as original, 7 speed Shimano. The bike originally had cantis, but it had v-brakes when I converted to brifters, so I needed to put Travel Agent adapters on them (which work great).

due ruote 

I have posted my 92 Stumpjumper Comp previously; now an update with new fenders and frame bag.

gthomson

Why do some mountain bikes have a massive clearance in the front fork and others are much tighter, like the one duo route has posted above? I get those tires are pretty large so that fills up a lot of space, but my old Trek bike had like 2" of clearance between the fork and the 2" tires and plenty of room for fenders as well.
I like how that bike looks above, with the wheel snug up to the fender and fender right under the fork. Aerodynamic like a road bike.

esasjl

I've posted this Verago before, but also updated. 'Vintage drop bar MTB' has, overall, become my favorite bike type, it will do almost anything better than it should do.

due ruote 

Well, that’s a replacement fork on my bike, but I think it’s pretty close to the original as far as clearance goes. What you describe seems atypical - most of what I see in this thread seems close to what I have.
You’re right that mine is kind of snug. I had to dimple the fenders slightly for a proper fit.

LBCwanabe 

This is almost like a salsa Fargo but not quite 😂

defraz

Made my conversion, cinelli ottomilauno mid 80's. It was my first real bike when i was 14, they stole it, then after 30 years found a very good one 400km from my house. Obviously i got it! But using it only on the road, so i decided to go drop bar. Changed only handlebar, stem, command and cables, so is easy to revert it to original. Brifters are Campagnolo xenon 9v, they work on 6 speed xt m730. With latex tube and continental speed king is comfy and fast on road, even if it's not the lightest (wheels are pretty heavy).
I would like to post photos but i'm not allowed since less than 10 posts, i read a lot but not writing too much. This thread has been a great ispiration nevertheless. This is a 1 post count, so hopefully will upload photos soon!

Enrico

fliplap

I guess this sort of qualifies. My partner's dirt drop, bar end, wide(er) tired Bridgestone XO-2 gravel rig. Mix of parts bin stuff. Origin8 "Gary" dirt drops on a Kalloy dirt drop stem. Shimano tricolor aero levers, 9sp bar ends and XT M732 cantilevers. Nervar 50.4 crank with the pedal holes retapped wearing Sugino 46/28 chainrings. Tire clearance with the WTB 1.95s is close, but after straightening the fork, acceptable.

curbtender

What is the preferred canti brake setup to go with STI's?

wrk101

XT or Pauls. Lower end Shimano vintage cantis had the dreaded plastic spring housing, which often fails. Avoid. I've got Pauls on my Cimarron right now. Pauls are pricey, got mine off a donor bike where other parts covered the price.

defraz

Are you asking about shimano sti with slr, or brifters in general?
I've no experience with shimano slr, but in general cantilever are compatible with brifters and working with the straddle cable you can fine tune the mechanical advantage, or at least make them stop the bike...

Paul for sure are superb, but are expensive. I like shimano cx50 brake very much between the new cantilever, not easy to find now but available somewhere, in my opinion "new style" cartridge pads are easier to setup. I have tektro oryx clone on one bike (cane creek marked) and they work well.

In general, wide cantilever like tektro cr720 are less powerful but somehow easier to setup, with longish straddle cable, narrow cantilever are more powerful but need a short straddle cable and suffer for variable mechanical advantage. Normally you just use what you have or is easy to find around you.

curbtender

Running ultegra 6500 with diacompe. I stop, but looking for something a little lighter on the grip.

defraz

what model of diacompe brakes do you have? Setting cantilevers, in particular the old type with thick pads, is not trivial, straddle cable position and status as well as pad inclination and toe in can turn a great brake in a mediocre one and viceversa. Cable/housing path and degradation can have a great influence as well.

Personally, on what is available now on the market, i would use shimano br-cx50 (at least, here in Europe they are still on some site like bike components) for good price/value ratio and easy set up. For further improvement is possibile the replace the pads with the cartridge one from cx70 (that are non more available as a full brake as far as i see). Paul components touring or neo retro for awesomeness

Sorcerer

KS seat dropper lowered. Dingle