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ISO and for trade thread part 5

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ISO and for trade thread part 5

Old 01-29-23, 06:04 PM
  #5576  
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
When I was putting centre pull brakes (Vainqueur 999) on my Grand Sprint, one of my main concerns was the front cable guide. Basically, the headset I use is Stronglight P3 (or a variant of it) with stack height of around 33mm because it's probably the lowest stack height one can find in French threading. The point of getting that one was to make sure the locknut threads on fully onto a short-ish steerer tube. I can't really go for much more than that, because the locknut might possibly have very little thread to grip onto. So putting an extra spacer in there (like the Weinmann headset cable guide one I'm using right now) makes me a bit anxious. I check the locknut before every ride and it seems to be doing alright, but I'm always a bit paranoid about it.
Tektro have a fork mount cable guide, but it would look out of place on a 70' bicycle and then it's for cantilever brakes, so probably would require some modifications to work with centrepull calipers anyway.
That model 951 or 801 gives me an idea for a custom solution: take a standard Weinmann aluminium spacer (that chunk of aluminium that goes between the calipers and the fork) or just make one, cut a spline into it on the flat side (thus making sure that anything put in there will clear the bottom cup of the headset as well as sit firmly in its position), then take a flat piece of thick steel just wide enough to go into that spline, shape it depending on what is required and add the cable adjuster on top. Looking at my bicycle now, I think the cutout for the cable anchor bolt wouldn't be necessary. I'm probably overthinking it a bit though, because the current solution seems to be working so far. And I guess grinding down a bit of the French serrated washer on its non-serrated side could be a less labour intensive approach.
Thatnks for the link anyway. The reach is probably too much for any of the frames I have (generally one requires more or less 57, 67, the other 57, 57 and one I'm working on will be eventually getting side pulls with 57, 57 reach), but the design is very interesting and uncommon.
There are a few other options to think about- there's a cable guide that clamps to the stem, I think Velo Orange sells one. Maybe not quite as out-of-place looking as the Tektro guide... You could also drill a hole in the 'reach' part of the stem... A little bit tricky, and no doubt there are those who would wail that doing so is courting death, but pretty clean.


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Old 01-29-23, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
There are a few other options to think about- there's a cable guide that clamps to the stem, I think Velo Orange sells one. Maybe not quite as out-of-place looking as the Tektro guide... You could also drill a hole in the 'reach' part of the stem... A little bit tricky, and no doubt there are those who would wail that doing so is courting death, but pretty clean.


not from me: that's an often-used technique and if done correctly there's very little danger to the stem.
Correctly for me means chucking the stem at the correct angle in a vise and using a drill press to first drill the thin (2mm or so) hole for the cable and then the larger 4-5mm "countersink" in the top for the cable housing end, following the thin hole as centerguide.
Try to do this without a drill press and vise is asking for trouble, IMO
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Old 01-29-23, 09:10 PM
  #5578  
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Odd request of the week here. I'm in the process of rehabbing a matched pair of low-end 4-speeds so I can get them out of my hair when weather starts to warm. They'd been stored in a very humid basement, and spokes rusted (which I can address), but some of the nipples are frozen solid, and they're going to have to be cut. Consequently, I'm looking for 6-12 272 mm 14 gauge spokes. Would take more if you have them. Galvanized would match what's on there.

Thanks,

Z
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Old 01-30-23, 04:29 AM
  #5579  
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
When I was putting centre pull brakes (Vainqueur 999) on my Grand Sprint, one of my main concerns was the front cable guide. Basically, the headset I use is Stronglight P3 (or a variant of it) with stack height of around 33mm because it's probably the lowest stack height one can find in French threading. The point of getting that one was to make sure the locknut threads on fully onto a short-ish steerer tube. I can't really go for much more than that, because the locknut might possibly have very little thread to grip onto. So putting an extra spacer in there (like the Weinmann headset cable guide one I'm using right now) makes me a bit anxious. I check the locknut before every ride and it seems to be doing alright, but I'm always a bit paranoid about it.
I had a similar issue and solved it two ways.

The first uses a long Mafac rear brake hanger.
There are long ones, and the short ones won't work.




After that I made one; it really needed to be longer than the Mafac would allow, to avoid a sharp curve in the cable run.
This is a bit of stainless spoke silvers-soldered into the wings of a brass wingnut that's been tapped for a normal adjuster.
(This pic is from the trial-fit - the angle at the bottom has been "adjusted" since.)


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Old 01-30-23, 06:25 PM
  #5580  
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Originally Posted by oneclick
I had a similar issue and solved it two ways.

The first uses a long Mafac rear brake hanger.
There are long ones, and the short ones won't work.

After that I made one; it really needed to be longer than the Mafac would allow, to avoid a sharp curve in the cable run.
This is a bit of stainless spoke silvers-soldered into the wings of a brass wingnut that's been tapped for a normal adjuster.
(This pic is from the trial-fit - the angle at the bottom has been "adjusted" since.)
Quite interesting solutions. I like the second one more. Though soldering is definitely not my forte Something to look into sometime.

What I use is this:




As mentioned, so far I'm just checking the locknut on that headset to make sure nothing comes apart during a ride. Which isn't a huge issue and so far I didn't notice the locknut coming loose. This might be something to look into if I were to sell the bicycle.
There was another solution I was looking into, which was Nitto stem mounted cable guide. They do look reasonable. The prices aren't what I would call reasonable (some £30 in the UK) and they are not always easy to find. But they do look like an elegant design. I was thinking about getting one, but then I wanted the bicycle to use solutions or components which would be available back in mid 80's. The whole bicycle uses components from before 1987 (hubs are 87' I think, though older design Atom, rims are MA2, so introduced in 86') and the idea is to keep it this way as much as possible.
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Old 01-30-23, 06:36 PM
  #5581  
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You could use one of the Surly seat-post binder-bolt hangers (very similar to oneclick 's solution). Surly isn't the only company making one, and I think there are various lengths...
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Old 01-31-23, 06:47 AM
  #5582  
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
You could use one of the Surly seat-post binder-bolt hangers
Check the diameter of the stem clamp bolt, you mght have to "adjust" one sized for a seatpost binder.
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Old 01-31-23, 11:40 AM
  #5583  
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
Odd request of the week here. I'm in the process of rehabbing a matched pair of low-end 4-speeds so I can get them out of my hair when weather starts to warm. They'd been stored in a very humid basement, and spokes rusted (which I can address), but some of the nipples are frozen solid, and they're going to have to be cut. Consequently, I'm looking for 6-12 272 mm 14 gauge spokes. Would take more if you have them. Galvanized would match what's on there.
Thanks,
Z
Have you tried blasting the frozen spoke nipple for 5-6 seconds with a pencil-tipped propane torch?

Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.

I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
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Old 01-31-23, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
Have you tried blasting the frozen spoke nipple for 5-6 seconds with a pencil-tipped propane torch?

Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.

I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).

Interesting idea, but I haven't because I don't have one. Do you think one of those long-tipped lighters they sell for lighting charcoal grills would work?

Still need at least one spoke though because one snapped. I have two or three sets of wheels I'll need to build for other projects, so will tuck whatever 272s I need into that order.
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Old 01-31-23, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
Have you tried blasting the frozen spoke nipple for 5-6 seconds with a pencil-tipped propane torch?

Get the wrench on there quickly while it's still hot, avoid blasting the spoke itself.

I've done this hundreds of times, seems to work really well if the nipple isn't yet rounded off (or the spoke broken).
Great idea​​​​​​! I even have one of those torches.
Cheers,
Van
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Old 01-31-23, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by senior ryder 00
great idea​​​​​​! i even have one of those torches.
Cheers,
van
reminder; remove tire, tube and rim tape from the wheel first!
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Old 01-31-23, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
reminder; remove tire, tube and rim tape from the wheel first!
!
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Old 01-31-23, 09:44 PM
  #5588  
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
Quite interesting solutions. I like the second one more. Though soldering is definitely not my forte Something to look into sometime.

What I use is this:




As mentioned, so far I'm just checking the locknut on that headset to make sure nothing comes apart during a ride. Which isn't a huge issue and so far I didn't notice the locknut coming loose. This might be something to look into if I were to sell the bicycle.
There was another solution I was looking into, which was Nitto stem mounted cable guide. They do look reasonable. The prices aren't what I would call reasonable (some £30 in the UK) and they are not always easy to find. But they do look like an elegant design. I was thinking about getting one, but then I wanted the bicycle to use solutions or components which would be available back in mid 80's. The whole bicycle uses components from before 1987 (hubs are 87' I think, though older design Atom, rims are MA2, so introduced in 86') and the idea is to keep it this way as much as possible.
I just remembered I picked up an old Dia Compe set (note the red label but not “Drop Forged and the grey tint) getting two 750s for my Fuji and one came with this cable stop contraption, it mounts between the bolt and backplate. Roller and cable adjuster, oddity!


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Old 01-31-23, 10:56 PM
  #5589  
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ISO: Araya Aero2 (ADX-2) tubular rim, silver. Prefer a 32h, but I'll consider any drilling. Lots of 1s and 4s floating around, but looking for a 2.

Have: lots of other tubular rims, or other stuff that could be of interest.
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Old 02-01-23, 02:02 PM
  #5590  
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Originally Posted by AJI125
I just remembered I picked up an old Dia Compe set (note the red label but not “Drop Forged and the grey tint) getting two 750s for my Fuji and one came with this cable stop contraption, it mounts between the bolt and backplate. Roller and cable adjuster, oddity!


They thought about stopping the bolt head from rotating. Nice idea. Well, I guess there's nothing new under the sun, we're just creating new iterations of old stuff
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Old 02-02-23, 01:53 AM
  #5591  
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hey ehcoplex, that pic with the cable going through the to of the Nitto stem……


How is that bell attached?
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Old 02-02-23, 06:01 AM
  #5592  
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
hey ehcoplex, that pic with the cable going through the to of the Nitto stem……


How is that bell attached?
Robvolz , I pulled that picture from a Rene Herse blog post, so I don't have direct knowledge. IIRC, it was one of Jan Heine's bikes- my guess is he had the Nitto drilled and tapped- I seem to recall maybe there was a BQ bit, or another blog post somewhere about doing it. I've thought about doing it on a couple of my rides that have Nittos....
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Old 02-02-23, 11:58 AM
  #5593  
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Big discussion on the frame builders forum on the intelligence of drilling a stem. Some say instant death, others say they do it all day.
I hate the look of most stem clamps, I might give it a try.
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Old 02-02-23, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Robvolz
Big discussion on the frame builders forum on the intelligence of drilling a stem. Some say instant death, others say they do it all day.
I hate the look of most stem clamps, I might give it a try.
The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it creates a stress riser in some stems, that will eventually crack.
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Old 02-02-23, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by shoota
The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. I wouldn't be at all surprised if it creates a stress riser in some stems, that will eventually crack.
I'm somebody who has "done it all day" and never had a stem fail due to that hole and countersink drilled.
So I surmise (and have not had UL testing done) that there is very little critical stress in that part of a typical quill stem, that gives rise to any real and present danger...stress riser or not.
But...YMMV
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Old 02-03-23, 01:12 PM
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Free 700C Front Wheel and Tire- Atlanta ITP

It's not vintage but it's a good wheel. Tire is a 700x 32C Continental Touring Plus. If there is a better forum to offer parts for free then please advise. I have this listed on cl but I will gladly gift it to any Bike Forums member who wants it for their own use. Please send a dm to arrange pickup.
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/b...585004714.html

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Old 02-07-23, 11:21 AM
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ISO Cyclone FD & RD...

Yeah, I know there are plenty on eBay, but just figured I'd ask here first... Looking for a F & R Suntour Cyclone derailleur set, ideally the earlier version, GT rear.. Crusty and dusty is fine, as long as working/all there. Thx!

edit- found a set.

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Old 02-08-23, 03:32 PM
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Old 02-14-23, 10:54 AM
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ISO - Road pedals. English threaded. Platform, SPD or combo. Low - mid end preferred. Cosmetics not a concern. Hoping to locate 2-3 pairs in all.

Have various items available for trade.
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Old 02-14-23, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
ISO - Road pedals. English threaded. Platform, SPD or combo. Low - mid end preferred. Cosmetics not a concern. Hoping to locate 2-3 pairs in all.

Have various items available for trade.
Have several. PM me some preferences. They will likely be pretty darn cheap.
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