What have you been wrenching on lately?
03-22-23, 03:29 PM
#6051
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,020
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4501 Post(s)
Liked 6,367 Times
in
3,663 Posts
Another day, another problem to solve. The missing adjuster for the Superbe brakes arrived in post today, which is great. It also looks like the adjuster ring and cable holder / bolt are pretty much fused. Not so great. And it's not something you can just pop in to your LBS for and buy. I've seen a genuine Superbe one for something like $35 (plus shipping which would be another $20 for me) on fleabay, which I think is a bit excessive (even before the shipping cost). So that will be out of the question. Thankfully, compatible adjusters are fairly easily obtainable (for like 1/3rd the price of the original). The only problem is all I've seen have black O-rings, other than that, they look exactly the same.
For now I decided that the bit to save here is the brown / orange O ring. That came off easily enough helped by soaking in some warm water. This way, if I destroy other pieces whilst trying to free them, at least I can use the O ring on a replacement adjuster. I grabbed both parts with pliers through pieces of fabric and tried to pry this thing open, to no avail. I'll see if I can heat up the whole bit and cool down a few times, maybe that will help. I expect that at some point the thread between both parts got mangled, so I'm not raising my hopes high. I'm guessing eventually I will have to drill the cable tunnel / bolt out of the adjuster ring. This way I can re-tap the remaining adjuster ring and use it with another bolt, should there be any compatibility issues.
For now I decided that the bit to save here is the brown / orange O ring. That came off easily enough helped by soaking in some warm water. This way, if I destroy other pieces whilst trying to free them, at least I can use the O ring on a replacement adjuster. I grabbed both parts with pliers through pieces of fabric and tried to pry this thing open, to no avail. I'll see if I can heat up the whole bit and cool down a few times, maybe that will help. I expect that at some point the thread between both parts got mangled, so I'm not raising my hopes high. I'm guessing eventually I will have to drill the cable tunnel / bolt out of the adjuster ring. This way I can re-tap the remaining adjuster ring and use it with another bolt, should there be any compatibility issues.
Sometimes 2-3 days but have never had one that didn't comply.
I massage rubber bits sparingly with Vaseline to help preserve them.
03-22-23, 03:38 PM
#6052
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,736
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 937 Post(s)
Liked 2,909 Times
in
972 Posts
Thanks! Definitely a 4-foot rule situation, but the Peugeot decals were in great shape and the 531 decals are new from H. Lloyd. But the frame did clean up far brighter than I expected. To me it looks well-cared for.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 197? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1971 Raleigh International, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
03-22-23, 04:44 PM
#6053
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 557
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked 420 Times
in
246 Posts
I'll try soaking this piece for a while, I'm not in a hurry. Would Evaporust work on aluminium though?
For now I adapted an old cable adjuster I had knocking about in my assorted small parts box, of the knurled variety, but the length was correct. I used a standard hex nut as the adjuster ring, so if I can re-use the Suntour one, that would be totally ok for now and fully functional (it's not like I will put the bicycle back together over the next week or two). There are plenty of cable adjusters available for newer, Tektro brakes, but these would be a bit short. I found several companies in Poland which sell apparently NOS adjusters for Campagnolo. Well, these are knock-offs, their understanding of the term NOS might be a bit liberal, but look well made. Around $35 for two with shipping, so the price isn't too tragic either. I had my Stronglight / TA crank puller from one of these companies before and the quality was very good.
03-22-23, 06:14 PM
#6054
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,641
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1604 Post(s)
Liked 2,564 Times
in
1,214 Posts
Just tried heating up and cooling down, no go. I believe the root problem is both pieces becoming cross threaded. They sure feel like one solid piece of metal.
I'll try soaking this piece for a while, I'm not in a hurry. Would Evaporust work on aluminium though?
For now I adapted an old cable adjuster I had knocking about in my assorted small parts box, of the knurled variety, but the length was correct. I used a standard hex nut as the adjuster ring, so if I can re-use the Suntour one, that would be totally ok for now and fully functional (it's not like I will put the bicycle back together over the next week or two). There are plenty of cable adjusters available for newer, Tektro brakes, but these would be a bit short. I found several companies in Poland which sell apparently NOS adjusters for Campagnolo. Well, these are knock-offs, their understanding of the term NOS might be a bit liberal, but look well made. Around $35 for two with shipping, so the price isn't too tragic either. I had my Stronglight / TA crank puller from one of these companies before and the quality was very good.
I'll try soaking this piece for a while, I'm not in a hurry. Would Evaporust work on aluminium though?
For now I adapted an old cable adjuster I had knocking about in my assorted small parts box, of the knurled variety, but the length was correct. I used a standard hex nut as the adjuster ring, so if I can re-use the Suntour one, that would be totally ok for now and fully functional (it's not like I will put the bicycle back together over the next week or two). There are plenty of cable adjusters available for newer, Tektro brakes, but these would be a bit short. I found several companies in Poland which sell apparently NOS adjusters for Campagnolo. Well, these are knock-offs, their understanding of the term NOS might be a bit liberal, but look well made. Around $35 for two with shipping, so the price isn't too tragic either. I had my Stronglight / TA crank puller from one of these companies before and the quality was very good.
03-22-23, 07:11 PM
#6055
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 2,936
Bikes: Paramount, Faggin, Ochsner, Ciocc, Basso
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1296 Post(s)
Liked 1,883 Times
in
1,132 Posts
Those threads on the Superbe adjusters look pretty distorted. I would try running a die on the un-mangle threads that are still there and then move the adjuster onto the cleaned threads. I think it is just a bit of mangled aluminum that has the adjuster stuck. Smiles, MH
Last edited by Mad Honk; 03-24-23 at 04:08 PM.
03-22-23, 08:07 PM
#6056
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,020
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4501 Post(s)
Liked 6,367 Times
in
3,663 Posts
Just tried heating up and cooling down, no go. I believe the root problem is both pieces becoming cross threaded. They sure feel like one solid piece of metal.
I'll try soaking this piece for a while, I'm not in a hurry. Would Evaporust work on aluminium though?
For now I adapted an old cable adjuster I had knocking about in my assorted small parts box, of the knurled variety, but the length was correct. I used a standard hex nut as the adjuster ring, so if I can re-use the Suntour one, that would be totally ok for now and fully functional (it's not like I will put the bicycle back together over the next week or two). There are plenty of cable adjusters available for newer, Tektro brakes, but these would be a bit short. I found several companies in Poland which sell apparently NOS adjusters for Campagnolo. Well, these are knock-offs, their understanding of the term NOS might be a bit liberal, but look well made. Around $35 for two with shipping, so the price isn't too tragic either. I had my Stronglight / TA crank puller from one of these companies before and the quality was very good.
I'll try soaking this piece for a while, I'm not in a hurry. Would Evaporust work on aluminium though?
For now I adapted an old cable adjuster I had knocking about in my assorted small parts box, of the knurled variety, but the length was correct. I used a standard hex nut as the adjuster ring, so if I can re-use the Suntour one, that would be totally ok for now and fully functional (it's not like I will put the bicycle back together over the next week or two). There are plenty of cable adjusters available for newer, Tektro brakes, but these would be a bit short. I found several companies in Poland which sell apparently NOS adjusters for Campagnolo. Well, these are knock-offs, their understanding of the term NOS might be a bit liberal, but look well made. Around $35 for two with shipping, so the price isn't too tragic either. I had my Stronglight / TA crank puller from one of these companies before and the quality was very good.
03-22-23, 09:27 PM
#6057
blahblahblah chrome moly
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,984
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 2,566 Times
in
1,072 Posts
Sweet! I have one also, which I think is right around the same year. I've been saying it's a '58, but it's a guess. Do we have a way to know, serial decoder maybe?
Those frames were really well made. Dunno if yours has it, but mine has extra fillet brazing over the lugs, done just to make the transitions swoopier. A lot of skilled labor just to make it look nicer. The seatstay tops at the seat cluster, the curved bridges, the internal routing for the rear brake, all very fancy. It's a keeper!
Mine came with Campy dropouts. Is that a Huret I see on yours? Ironically mine came drewed, with a Huret mech mounted via claw adapter. Which I could choose to be upset about, but the mech it came with was the rare 1st-gen Allvit, that I think was only made in '58 or maybe a bit longer before the more modern-looking Allvit variant came out. I sold the Allvit and the wheels (Maxicar/SuperChamp) to a nice fella in Japan for over a grand, I think it might have been $1500, though that was long enough ago I don't remember for sure. Anyway since I got the whole bike for $200, I can't complain too much about the drewed dropout. I brazed a new Campy hanger on it, converted it to 650b, and it rides really great. I just have to decide on whether to repaint it. I don't hate the paint, though the PO started to sand it off for repainting before he realized that was too much work, so he sold it. But I want to do a couple more braze-ons, including brake pivots, and then it'll have too many burnt-paint spots to ignore.
Anyway keep us posted on your Follis journey. Oh and let me know if you want a head badge for it, I might have a surplus one of the right vintage. NOS, or probably a repro. The PO sourced one somewhere and gave it to me with the bike, but the one on the bike is pretty good too. The original and the replacement match, and I don't know which one I prefer. If I repaint, I might go with the repro, then my original might be for sale. It would have to be cut down to fit between the lugs on yours though.
Mark B
Those frames were really well made. Dunno if yours has it, but mine has extra fillet brazing over the lugs, done just to make the transitions swoopier. A lot of skilled labor just to make it look nicer. The seatstay tops at the seat cluster, the curved bridges, the internal routing for the rear brake, all very fancy. It's a keeper!
Mine came with Campy dropouts. Is that a Huret I see on yours? Ironically mine came drewed, with a Huret mech mounted via claw adapter. Which I could choose to be upset about, but the mech it came with was the rare 1st-gen Allvit, that I think was only made in '58 or maybe a bit longer before the more modern-looking Allvit variant came out. I sold the Allvit and the wheels (Maxicar/SuperChamp) to a nice fella in Japan for over a grand, I think it might have been $1500, though that was long enough ago I don't remember for sure. Anyway since I got the whole bike for $200, I can't complain too much about the drewed dropout. I brazed a new Campy hanger on it, converted it to 650b, and it rides really great. I just have to decide on whether to repaint it. I don't hate the paint, though the PO started to sand it off for repainting before he realized that was too much work, so he sold it. But I want to do a couple more braze-ons, including brake pivots, and then it'll have too many burnt-paint spots to ignore.
Anyway keep us posted on your Follis journey. Oh and let me know if you want a head badge for it, I might have a surplus one of the right vintage. NOS, or probably a repro. The PO sourced one somewhere and gave it to me with the bike, but the one on the bike is pretty good too. The original and the replacement match, and I don't know which one I prefer. If I repaint, I might go with the repro, then my original might be for sale. It would have to be cut down to fit between the lugs on yours though.
Mark B
03-24-23, 03:10 AM
#6058
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: London, UK
Posts: 723
Bikes: Yes, probably too many but still have a roving eye...
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 2,782 Times
in
531 Posts
Spring clean for my Nikor, new shifter and gear cables, brake pads, chain, cassette, tyres, bar tape and saddle.
I put over 4000 miles on this bike last year and it was subjected to more crap weather riding than all my other bikes, so it was due some TLC, and its scrubbed up rather nicely.
I put over 4000 miles on this bike last year and it was subjected to more crap weather riding than all my other bikes, so it was due some TLC, and its scrubbed up rather nicely.
Likes For botty kayer:
03-24-23, 05:08 AM
#6059
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 475
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 253 Post(s)
Liked 223 Times
in
118 Posts
Not wrenching right now, but have some new chainrings (38 & 50 w/ 130 bcd) incoming to swap the 42/52 for some slightly improved gearing on my "new" Puch Royal Force. Also, imma try my hands on tubulars for the first time -which should be interesting..
03-24-23, 05:54 AM
#6060
I don't know.
Join Date: May 2003
Location: South Meriden, CT
Posts: 2,000
Bikes: '90 B'stone RB-1, '92 B'stone RB-2, '89 SuperGo Access Comp, '03 Access 69er, '23 Trek 520, '14 Ritchey Road Logic, '09 Kestrel Evoke, '08 Windsor Tourist, '17 Surly Wednesday, '89 Centurion Accordo, '15 CruX, '17 Ridley X-Night, '89 Marinoni
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 312 Post(s)
Liked 848 Times
in
443 Posts
I put some FSA Adventure bars on my 520. I like them. They are flatish on the top, shallow drop, and 12 degree of kickout. I went with 46, wider than the stock bars.
03-24-23, 07:55 AM
#6061
Volunteer wrench
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 67
Bikes: 1971 Schwinn Suburan, 1971 Peugoet UO8, 1984 Nishiki Cresta, 1984 Nishiki Olympic, 1987 Schwinn Super Sport, 1996 Waterford 1250, 2018 Cannondale Synaspe Carbon
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 50 Times
in
21 Posts
Changed a pulley on a Huret derailleur and didn't anticipate 15 microscopic ball bearings. This along with refurbishing the hubs, BB, etc. and hunting down parts to restore a '74 Continental, Just needs the bar tape
Likes For retlaw53:
03-24-23, 12:42 PM
#6062
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 631 Times
in
229 Posts
Sweet! I have one also, which I think is right around the same year. I've been saying it's a '58, but it's a guess. Do we have a way to know, serial decoder maybe?
Those frames were really well made. Dunno if yours has it, but mine has extra fillet brazing over the lugs, done just to make the transitions swoopier. A lot of skilled labor just to make it look nicer. The seatstay tops at the seat cluster, the curved bridges, the internal routing for the rear brake, all very fancy. It's a keeper!
Mine came with Campy dropouts. Is that a Huret I see on yours? Ironically mine came drewed, with a Huret mech mounted via claw adapter. Which I could choose to be upset about, but the mech it came with was the rare 1st-gen Allvit, that I think was only made in '58 or maybe a bit longer before the more modern-looking Allvit variant came out. I sold the Allvit and the wheels (Maxicar/SuperChamp) to a nice fella in Japan for over a grand, I think it might have been $1500, though that was long enough ago I don't remember for sure. Anyway since I got the whole bike for $200, I can't complain too much about the drewed dropout. I brazed a new Campy hanger on it, converted it to 650b, and it rides really great. I just have to decide on whether to repaint it. I don't hate the paint, though the PO started to sand it off for repainting before he realized that was too much work, so he sold it. But I want to do a couple more braze-ons, including brake pivots, and then it'll have too many burnt-paint spots to ignore.
Anyway keep us posted on your Follis journey. Oh and let me know if you want a head badge for it, I might have a surplus one of the right vintage. NOS, or probably a repro. The PO sourced one somewhere and gave it to me with the bike, but the one on the bike is pretty good too. The original and the replacement match, and I don't know which one I prefer. If I repaint, I might go with the repro, then my original might be for sale. It would have to be cut down to fit between the lugs on yours though.
Mark B
Those frames were really well made. Dunno if yours has it, but mine has extra fillet brazing over the lugs, done just to make the transitions swoopier. A lot of skilled labor just to make it look nicer. The seatstay tops at the seat cluster, the curved bridges, the internal routing for the rear brake, all very fancy. It's a keeper!
Mine came with Campy dropouts. Is that a Huret I see on yours? Ironically mine came drewed, with a Huret mech mounted via claw adapter. Which I could choose to be upset about, but the mech it came with was the rare 1st-gen Allvit, that I think was only made in '58 or maybe a bit longer before the more modern-looking Allvit variant came out. I sold the Allvit and the wheels (Maxicar/SuperChamp) to a nice fella in Japan for over a grand, I think it might have been $1500, though that was long enough ago I don't remember for sure. Anyway since I got the whole bike for $200, I can't complain too much about the drewed dropout. I brazed a new Campy hanger on it, converted it to 650b, and it rides really great. I just have to decide on whether to repaint it. I don't hate the paint, though the PO started to sand it off for repainting before he realized that was too much work, so he sold it. But I want to do a couple more braze-ons, including brake pivots, and then it'll have too many burnt-paint spots to ignore.
Anyway keep us posted on your Follis journey. Oh and let me know if you want a head badge for it, I might have a surplus one of the right vintage. NOS, or probably a repro. The PO sourced one somewhere and gave it to me with the bike, but the one on the bike is pretty good too. The original and the replacement match, and I don't know which one I prefer. If I repaint, I might go with the repro, then my original might be for sale. It would have to be cut down to fit between the lugs on yours though.
Mark B
I am basing the guess of 1958 from the 58 catalogue scan from https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Follis_58/ and from pictures of later models and the model, 309 Champione de France or 307, Tour de Europe from the fact that it had internal routing for the rear brake cable.
My goal at this point is to make it as presentable as I can. I touched up the blue paint and am painting the steer tube cut outs and script white. I have a decal set. I don't know if it is the correct one but I am going with it.
In the end the it will be a franken bike, with somewhat period correct parts. The Bike Exchange is a non proffit and I have to do the best I can, hence Mafac brakes, Stronglight crank, Alvit rear and probably Hurret front derailleurs, Simplex down tube shifters,AVA stem with CTA bars, and a pair of Rigida rims on Campi small flange hubs. At least most of the parts are French.
The decals came with a head badge decal but it doesn't fit in the small frame so I will probably trim it down to just the center emblem and go with that. I figure most people will never guess it isn't all original spec. Hell, If I hadn't spent hours tracking down catalogues and pictures I wouldn't either.
03-24-23, 03:13 PM
#6063
blahblahblah chrome moly
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,984
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 2,566 Times
in
1,072 Posts
Don't really know the date of mfg for sure. I found the frame and fork in the back room at the Bike Exchange. Not sure who donated it. It had a tag on is reading 55-58? and a price tag of $599.
I am basing the guess of 1958 from the 58 catalogue scan from https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Follis_58/ and from pictures of later models and the model, 309 Champione de France or 307, Tour de Europe from the fact that it had internal routing for the rear brake cable.
My goal at this point is to make it as presentable as I can. I touched up the blue paint and am painting the steer tube cut outs and script white. I have a decal set. I don't know if it is the correct one but I am going with it.
In the end the it will be a franken bike, with somewhat period correct parts. The Bike Exchange is a non proffit and I have to do the best I can, hence Mafac brakes, Stronglight crank, Alvit rear and probably Hurret front derailleurs, Simplex down tube shifters,AVA stem with CTA bars, and a pair of Rigida rims on Campi small flange hubs. At least most of the parts are French.
The decals came with a head badge decal but it doesn't fit in the small frame so I will probably trim it down to just the center emblem and go with that. I figure most people will never guess it isn't all original spec. Hell, If I hadn't spent hours tracking down catalogues and pictures I wouldn't either.
I am basing the guess of 1958 from the 58 catalogue scan from https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Follis_58/ and from pictures of later models and the model, 309 Champione de France or 307, Tour de Europe from the fact that it had internal routing for the rear brake cable.
My goal at this point is to make it as presentable as I can. I touched up the blue paint and am painting the steer tube cut outs and script white. I have a decal set. I don't know if it is the correct one but I am going with it.
In the end the it will be a franken bike, with somewhat period correct parts. The Bike Exchange is a non proffit and I have to do the best I can, hence Mafac brakes, Stronglight crank, Alvit rear and probably Hurret front derailleurs, Simplex down tube shifters,AVA stem with CTA bars, and a pair of Rigida rims on Campi small flange hubs. At least most of the parts are French.
The decals came with a head badge decal but it doesn't fit in the small frame so I will probably trim it down to just the center emblem and go with that. I figure most people will never guess it isn't all original spec. Hell, If I hadn't spent hours tracking down catalogues and pictures I wouldn't either.
My Follis has parts from every decade from the '50s to today. It's never going to be PC (period-correct) but it's in a fairly retro style at least.
Say, can I ask you (or anyone reading this) a favor? Have you looked at the translation files at the site where you got the catalog scan? Peter Adler, who scanned the catalog, says the original text file I made displays the accented French characters wrong on his computer, so he made another version that displays correctly for him. But on my computer, the original displays the accented characters correctly, and his replacement file is the one that's screwed up. A Mac vsersus PC thing? Anyway, some more eyes on the problem might help. In the meantime, we just added more files that work on any computer, like the .PDF — I think it's only the TXT files that are the problem. Obviously this is not of great importance, I was just curious.
Mark B, "webmaster" (using the term very loosely) of bulgier.net, the most amateurish site on the whole web.
03-25-23, 11:02 AM
#6064
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 475
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 253 Post(s)
Liked 223 Times
in
118 Posts
Changed my chainrings from 52/42 to 50/38 to get "easier" (
) gearing. I feel the Miche rings look fitting on the bike. Also, put some new tubulars (a first for me) on the rims, since the old ones basically crumbled off. Not necessarily the width i am used to but oh well . Ah yea, also new seatpost and saddle. Next up, new bartape and hoods plus shortening the chain and try'n get a 14-28 freewheel.
Before:
Before
After
) gearing. I feel the Miche rings look fitting on the bike. Also, put some new tubulars (a first for me) on the rims, since the old ones basically crumbled off. Not necessarily the width i am used to but oh well . Ah yea, also new seatpost and saddle. Next up, new bartape and hoods plus shortening the chain and try'n get a 14-28 freewheel.Before:
Before
After
03-25-23, 02:13 PM
#6065
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: London, UK
Posts: 723
Bikes: Yes, probably too many but still have a roving eye...
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 313 Post(s)
Liked 2,782 Times
in
531 Posts
Just finished building up my first carbon bike, a XL Look lugged 585, which I think is from 2008/9. 20 speed Campag, 28 tyres, (just), and Zipp 302 wheels. I will be taking this to Italy at the end of June to ride up the Stelvio pass and other famous Giro climbs, and to say I'm excited about that is an understatement
Likes For botty kayer:
03-25-23, 02:19 PM
#6066
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,281
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1134 Post(s)
Liked 1,726 Times
in
950 Posts
Changed my chainrings from 52/42 to 50/38 to get "easier" () gearing. I feel the Miche rings look fitting on the bike. Also, put some new tubulars (a first for me) on the rims, since the old ones basically crumbled off. Not necessarily the width i am used to but oh well . Ah yea, also new seatpost and saddle. Next up, new bartape and hoods plus shortening the chain and try'n get a 14-28 freewheel.
Before:
Before
After
) gearing. I feel the Miche rings look fitting on the bike. Also, put some new tubulars (a first for me) on the rims, since the old ones basically crumbled off. Not necessarily the width i am used to but oh well . Ah yea, also new seatpost and saddle. Next up, new bartape and hoods plus shortening the chain and try'n get a 14-28 freewheel.Before:
Before
After
Likes For Mr. 66:
03-26-23, 07:24 AM
#6067
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 miles NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 2,184
Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes
Mentioned: 83 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 472 Post(s)
Liked 1,028 Times
in
404 Posts
I continue to ponder the idea of touring on the Erie Canal this spring. That includes any needed changes to the bike set up. One idea is to further stabilize the handle bar bag and even transfer some of its weight off the bars to the front rack and thus the forks. I had the bag and had made that black HB support frame back in 2019 prior to my trip on the GAP. The front rack is new since then so I realized I could make a brace to hold the support frame and bolt to the rack. Used a bit of light gauge aluminum channel and a length of aluminum plate (from an old road sign). Bent, drilled, strapped and bolted and it looks good. Going for test rides to see if it's stable. May not even be necessary but I made it cuz I could and because it weighted only grams.
As usual, I mocked this up with cardboard to get dimension "in the ball park" then proceeded to fab the aluminum. I'm posting it in case it solves someone else's problem or prompts a useful idea.
As usual, I mocked this up with cardboard to get dimension "in the ball park" then proceeded to fab the aluminum. I'm posting it in case it solves someone else's problem or prompts a useful idea.
Likes For Prowler:
03-26-23, 01:58 PM
#6068
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,408
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 523 Post(s)
Liked 968 Times
in
507 Posts
I got the F.W. Evans road worthy today. A lot of the parts that came on it were really bad, so I had to scrounge around to put it together. I'm not sure they were original to the bike anyway. Some things are just place holders until after I paint it. I rode a quick mile to check all the functions and so far, I am impressed. Even with the heavy wheels and pedals, it comes in at 23.2 pounds. I will be riding more as the weather allows, so I can figure out what I want for the final configuration. Then I'll tear everything apart and do paint and decals.
Likes For Pompiere:
03-26-23, 03:22 PM
#6069
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 557
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked 420 Times
in
246 Posts
Since I'll be replacing the wheels on the Suntoured-up Grand Sprint I'm planning to sell at some point (got my daily commuter bike and two more projects in the pipeline and not enough space to store bicycles), I decided to make myself even more busy with bicycle mechanics. I'm left with two Mavic MA2 rims (right now laced to Maillard hubs), so I've made a decision I will at some point convert my daily commuter mystery Motobecane to mostly 600EX SIS group (it has RD6208, FD6207, FC6207 and I have BL6208 I'm not using on it now). Whilst I'm looking for 600EX hubs in a good price (and brakes) and do some research on Shimano 600EX freewheels (I need to check if I can find MF6207 or MF6208 in 12-24 range, preferably), I thought I might as well take off the current wheelset (Rigida DP18 on Exage RM50 hubs) and use the MA2 wheelset with a generic shimano freewheel I had knocking about. Of course, things never go according to plan. The freewheel I had seemed a bit gummed up, so I decided to open it and check what's going on. Looks like the last time I overhauled it, I packed way too much grease in there. I've cleaned it all up and put new grease in, this time much less of it. Seems to be working better now. So tomorrow I'm hoping to swap the wheels and adjust the derailleur and brakes. 14-28 is not exactly the range I want, but should be alright for now.
03-26-23, 04:41 PM
#6070
aka Tom Reingold
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 40,481
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Mentioned: 511 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7333 Post(s)
Liked 2,430 Times
in
1,419 Posts
Today, I changed the battery in the 2004 Honda Element. The car has nearly 300,000 miles on it. I used my bike tools and lubes to do the job. We literally use this SUV for sport and utility. Usually it's to haul big stuff, and sometimes it's to haul bikes.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Likes For noglider:
03-26-23, 04:59 PM
#6071
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,641
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 52 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1604 Post(s)
Liked 2,564 Times
in
1,214 Posts
Have a 2004 Element. I have put a refrigerator in it before. I pull the rear seats and put a masonry tub in it to haul dirt and rock, lol.
03-26-23, 08:05 PM
#6072
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,020
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4501 Post(s)
Liked 6,367 Times
in
3,663 Posts
03-27-23, 10:24 PM
#6073
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 631 Times
in
229 Posts
Started work on this 1985 Pinarello Montello last year. Finally took it to the Bike Exchange for sale this week.
Likes For capnjonny:
03-28-23, 06:22 AM
#6074
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2023
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I’ve been working on a vintage (supposedly Italian) track frame, finally found a good compatible BB, the first cheap one had a wrong cup diameter by 0,5mm on the left side.
Finally gonna complete this build and ride it!
Finally gonna complete this build and ride it!
03-28-23, 03:16 PM
#6075
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 557
Bikes: Motobecane C41, Matsu$hita Nashonaru
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 213 Post(s)
Liked 420 Times
in
246 Posts
It looks like a completely different bike. I really like ridges on the lugs on the bottom bracket shell. What did you use to clean it down to chrome so nicely?
