Bikealangelo

Hey, so I am a new cyclist, and for now, I am not riding super far (10-20 miles on a single ride), but I have been wondering about something lately:
do expensive bikes ($1k+) justify the cost? I have been riding a 1983 Schwinn le tour, and it has mostly seemed to be pretty good to me. I guess I am not understanding how an expensive bike could be that much of a game changer.
SO my question to you all is "what makes the pricier bikes objectively better than the cheaper bikes, or is it just preference?"

freeranger

Yes-Maybe-No It all depends on your level of involvement, fitness, and what type of riding you do. Top level expensive bikes will be lighter, have lighter and better components, frame materials will be different than middle to lower level bikes. If you ride often, longer distances, or race, then a top level expensive bike might be for you. If you get out on weekends and ride the local MUP, then you won't need that top level bike. I think anyone would benefit from a better bike than what you find at your "big box" stores. A decent brand with at least mid-level components is fine for many. Personally, for what riding I do, a 5-figure bike would be a waste of money. I ride for my enjoyment and some exercise, no racing. But I don't want to ride "junk". Surprised at the level of components found now on even some bikes that are not so inexpensive! But many of those components are easily changed out. So, it all depends, if you want that 5 figure bike and can afford it, go for it. Only you can decide if it's worth it to you. I would not consider $1000 all that expensive for a decent bike these days, don't know that you can get a "decent" road bike for that little now.. As you ride, read, and learn about bikes, you'll find what level of components, frame material, etc., you desire, and what will fit your budget. As an example, the Giant Contend AR 3 is not what I would consider expensive and for a road bike, is about as inexpensive as I would go, and would likely buy a model further up the ladder if I was buying a road bike today--and it lists at $1350.

shelbyfv

No, absolutely not worth it for you. Ride what you have and enjoy it!

BobbyG

They do for the manufacturer. The cost is the result of many factors, not just "quality". There is the cost of raw materials, manufacturing, shipping, company, business and advertising costs and dealer mark-up. There is a magic sweet spot for price where profit and sales are maximized...too high and sales drop, too low and profit drops.

Assuming a bicycle manufacturer has allowed for higher manufacturing costs...where has that extra expense been directed?...towards research and design? Towards higher-cost components?...and why? Higher precision? Higher reliability and longer life? Lower weight? Trendiness?

And why do people buy more expensive bikes? Snob appeal? True appreciation of the finer things? Exclusivity? Competitive edge? A reward of some sort? (deserved or otherwise) The best tool for the job? A cost analysis that a better-built bike will last longer with fewer problems?...be faster? Handle better? Improve one's life? Improve one's social standing or attractiveness? Envy? Niche bikes like cargo bikes, folding bikes, extreme off-road and pure racing bikes cost more because the potential customer base and sales are less.

People make decisions based on many factors both logical and emotional. Sometimes the idea of a thing is more attractive than the thing itself. As my wife likes to say, some people have more money than sense.

A used bike can be of better quality than a new bike, and for less cost.

As far as your '83 LeTour vs a new bike...I have a 1984 Nishiki International 12-speed that fits and rides in a way that is magic. Nothing else I own or have ridden feels as wonderful. Last year I bought a 2006 Felt 2x10 which is more advanced in every way. And while it is the same type of bike as the Nishiki (light, semi racing)...it was not a "game changer". It is faster and works better, but those aren't my only criteria for my bikes. Was it worth buying? For only $500, for me it was.

I also have an old 26" 1997 MTB which is better for hauling my bike trailer, and better for commuting in the snow (with studded tires), and yet it's market value is maybe $200 at best.

There are so many ways in which a new bike is worth $1K+ (that's not much in today's market, although quite expensive for many people in today's economy) and so many ways it is not woth that much.

Based on your question and the way that you phrased it, I assume $1K+ at this time would be a significant expense for you.

Only you can decide if a bike at a specific price point is right for you.

You must define your objectives, your goals, your values and your budget. You must test ride many bikes and get a feel for what it is that makes a bike worth its cost for you.

big john

Depends.

Inusuit

My favorite bike cost $50 used. As others have noted, ride what you have until you decide to continue with the sport. My used road bike was $1300 and a huge step up from the heavy Diamondback mountain bike I was riding. I enjoyed the road bike and therefore rode more.

jon c. 

Weight and crisp, accurate shifting are the big differences.

Weight is significant mainly on hills. I'm biased against Schwinns because they tended to be tanks in my youth. But I don't know the weight of this model. It is a good quality frame and should quite acceptable for casual riding. If you're not doing a lot of climbing then weight is not a big factor. Shifting is a function of both the quality of components and how well the components are adjusted. Don't know what the components are on this bike but if it shifts well that's all that really matters.

The most important thing on any bike is fit. This is not a top level bike, but it's a decent level and if it fits well and feels comfortable to you, it's a fine bike for casual riding.
$1K+ is not "expensive" for new bikes. If your Schwinn is in good shape and well adjusted it's as good a bike as anything you would buy new for a grand. Double that figure and a new bike would be an improvement. But not a huge improvement.

If you like this bike, ride it for a year or two. If you get interested in riding further or want to start trying for personal best times you can consider moving up. By that time you'll have a better idea of what you might want. But for your current purposes, a new bike won't matter much.

(OTOH, if a new bike would excite you and get you to ride more, then buy a new bike. I'd never try to convince anyone they shouldn't buy a new bike. You probably don't need one, but if you want it that changes the equation.)

ussprinceton

the cheapest road bike I own is a '16 Trek Emonda SL

LesterOfPuppets

Getting a used road bike around 20 lbs won't cost terribly much and the more hills you ride the more you'll love it. Getting a new bike for $1k will often still be a bit portly, so go used. Brifters allow you to shift more easily and more often, when you're hands are always on the shifters you just shift for no reason sometimes

If you ride in the rain a lot and/or ride really steep and/or long downhills you may appreciate disc brakes, I don't own any disc brake road bikes myself so not sure if there are any other benefits there.

tFUnK

The story I like to tell: a friend was wanting to get his first "serious road bike" after riding clunker mountain bikes for years. He walks into the bike shop, test rides a bike within his budget of $800-1200, and was about to pull out his credit card. Just before paying for it, he spots a $2200 Tarmac and figures what the heck, might as well test ride the Tarmac real quick since he's already there. He ended up 2x-ing his budget and went home with the Tarmac. He put some good miles on that Tarmac over the years but never really got deep into cycling. The Tarmac changed hands a couple times within the friend circle and eventually found its way only Craigslist. I guess I tell this story for two reasons: 1) a more expensive bike will be noticeably better than a cheaper bike when you're going from entry-mid level to mid-high level (the differences are more marginal from mid-high to high end); 2) a more expensive bike may or may not be worth it to you in the long run depending on how serious you get into cycling.

Polaris OBark

The premise is two-fold flawed. The 40 lb Schwinn Le Tour (which I had as a kid in ultra-flat Chicago suburbia) probably would cost more than $1K, new, in today's dollars. Also, in today's dollars, $1K doesn't get you a whole lot in terms of a new bike.

indyfabz

Mine was.

Polaris OBark

I wonder how much that would set him back?

baj32161

It depends. What type of riding are you doing and where do you want to get with your riding?

How "serious" of a rider do you want to be?

There are many in here who will tell you that $1K is not very expensive for a road bike and I would tend to agree. However, my recommendation if you are considering getting a new bike that you consider getting something used. Used bikes, especially those ib good condition are often a great value and I've found Facebook Marketplace is a great place to look for a bargain.

I picked this up in a straight swap for my old raid bike, no cash exchanged and the previous owner is a bike mechanic.

New to me, 2010 Specialized Tricross Comp in immaculate condition. I made an even swap with the "seller" for my 2012 Cannondale Synapse 5. I wanted a softer, more comfortable ride at age 62. Both bikes were specc'ed the same except the brakes which are tektro .I I v on this bike. The seller is a mechanic and we test rode each other's bike together and made the swap afterwards. I am very happy with it.

Ultimately though, if you're happy with your current bike, keep on riding it. That's what matters.

ussprinceton

also, look in eBay and your nearest CraigsList

Polaris OBark

Let's pretend this isn't a troll post, and instead is a genuine question. Here is my answer:

We recently got my daughter an aluminum Trek Domane AL5 for $2K.

A modern aluminum frame is much lighter than a 1983 Schwinn LeTour frame, and is much more user-friendly for a short-legged individual, having a sloped top tube. For this price, we also got very decent Shimano 105 components, including hydraulic brakes, and reasonable factory-built wheels. If you get pretty much any bike from the "big three" manufacturers, you are also getting a lifetime warranty on the frame, and 1 or 2 years on the components (2 years for Shimano is typical). I don't recall Schwinn or any of the other manufacturers back then (mid 1980s) ever doing anything like that. Her bike is pretty much in every way more that 2X better than the Schwinn LeTour, but where it really makes a difference is the weight and the gearing. Since we live where there are major hills, this is a very big deal. (In suburban Chicago where I grew up, or in most parts on IN, it probably would make very little difference.)

For more than $2K, the most significant potential improvements are better wheels, a carbon frame (or a boutique steel or titanium frame), and higher-level components. (The boutique steel frames I am thinking of are vastly lighter than, and superior to, the heavy ponderous unresponsive steel gas-pipe frames Schwinn cranked out for those models, which was the main reason Trek was able to take over their market share.)

xroadcharlie

US $1,000 will barely get you into the door if you're looking for a road bike from Giant and othe major manufacturers. Even then, I wouldn't consider their base Contend to be much of an upgrade from what you have. It looks like a fine bike for someone with a hybrid bike that wants to try out a road bike though. "cheap" bikes from Walmart and the like probably aren't any better then what you have either. It might be worth doing minor upgrades to your current bike like moving the shift levers to the handlebar, or perhaps a new cassette with different sprockets if you don't like what you have.

IMO you would need at least a Giant Contend AR 2 @ $1,350 to make it worth the effort. I think these are a good value for many average folks as they balance performance and Comfort for a reasonable price.

philbob57

I think the LeTour is a lot closer to under 30 lbs than 40. That's still heavy, but it's not a Varsity or Continental.

A new bike will shift more surely than your LeTour. It's likely to be several lbs lighter. It's likely to be harder to maintain. It's likely to be more responsive to the pedals and handlebars and brakes. It's likely to feel faster. You have to put your own price on those differences. The only way you'll know is by trying out a new bike.

My bike's frame was built almost 50 years ago, and I still like it. Several years ago, I was talking with a guy at a local Trek dealer, and he said it would cost me $2,500 to match the quality. At my age, I simply do not want to spend that kind of money at all, especially since I can find myself unable to ride due to health at any time, especially because I like riding the bike I have. It sits in my foyer and makes me want to go for rides.

But I'm curious, too. My son is trying to get my 13 year-old grandson to go for a red, 8-speed (I think) C'dale bike that looks like it's hardly ever been ridden. I hope he succeeds. If they buy it, I'll ride it and perhaps get converted to a new-2-me bike.

New bikes come with some great technology, but IMO it's all nice-to-have, not must-have. YMMV.

zandoval 

NO!

But when I really think about it I realize that a good bike was never cheap. A competitive bike is WAY OUT THERE!

1975 - Competitive Colnago was 3% the cost of a good Rally car.

2023 - Competitive Colnago is 6% the cost of a good Rally car.

When compared to other competitive machinery are Bicycles getting cheaper?

Fact is I have never been able to afford a Colnago of any year or era. Ha

Note: My math could be wrong. I humbly ask for corrections...

Mojo31

An expensive bike is only worth as much value as the buyer puts on it. Same as everything else.

And, $1,000 is not expensive in the new bike market. It’s a lot, but it gets you entry level at most.

zandoval 

Odder still is the price comparison to weight ratio. 30 to 25 pound bikes have a common price range. Now lets get under 22 pounds and the price goes way up. In competition weight makes a big difference even when measured in intervals of 30 grams/1oz.

There are allot of 22 pound bicycles out there that are well worth their price, and often overlooked... Just Saying...

zandoval 

I am so thankful that I am not in the Bicycle Marketing business. Its no wonder I see fewer and fewer independently owned bike shops out there...

plumberroy

Several years ago my father in law asked why I needed my expensive bike ( Surly Long Haul Trucker I built from frame up with mid level parts) when he gets along fine with a $150 big box store aluminum bike?

When he rides they ride with 3-6 guys . So someone can go get a vehicle.
He never rode the distances I did
He weighs 140 pounds at the time I was 325

I ride alone
Wife doesn't drive and I don't have relatives close to come get me
At the time I rode 25-50 miles twice a month
At the time I was 325 (290 now)
As mentioned above your LeTour was probably close to a $1000 in today's money
Then there is the fact that I rode old bikes I bought cheap and fixed up when I was raising my kids . Now I can afford a decent bike so I bought one or three 😁 . $1000 gets you a good bike not expensive bike
Also as mentioned above you can get a lot of value in a used bike for that money, you've just got to be patient. I bought a like new surly Steamroller off craigslist for $300

mstateglfr 

You managed to not give a good answer to a thread question that is so bad that almost any response would be a good response.

Your post doesn't answer the OP in a genuine manner or even in a mocking manner.

datlas 

As above, the correct answer is “it depends.”

I drive a 25 year old Saturn that is worth only a few hundred dollars. Other people I know have cars that cost 100k or more. Is that really worth it?? They all have 4 wheels and get you from point A to point B.

Answer depends on individual and values.

You may want to go to a bike shop some day (mid week) and ask to take a nice road bike out for a short test ride. Pay attention to handling, shifting, braking, and over-all “responsiveness,” and decide for yourself.